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The gun is predominately a glue gun, you have to put two sticks in because the second stick pushes the first stick. Once the first stick is used the gun won't push the second stick through? Also using a gun rather than a spoon does have issues if you are changing colours, you can waste up to a dozen wax seals. I used green wax in the gun and went to produce 100 gold seals, at least a dozen of the gold seals contained green wax, only small amounts but enough for them not to be used.
These are Gorgeous! Did you have to worry about the ribbon fraying? I am trying to do something with the ribbon and my ribbon is fraying at the ends. Please help with any advice!
Narito ang isang link na magbibigay sa iyo ng impormasyon sa kung anong mga produkto ang ginagamit: imaginediy.co.uk/blogs/diy-skill-level-easy/how-to-make-a-cheap-but-chic-diy-wedding-invitation
Is this your own wax stamp design? I want to have my own designs to sell but struggling to find a place who custom makes these for shops. The only ones I have found do custom jobs for over £50 and many shops sell their own for £10-30. Not sure where to look!
Hi You can find a full list of the materials needed on this page of our website: imaginediy.co.uk/blogs/diy-skill-level-easy/diy-place-cards The card used is a handmade cotton rag card. The clear paper is vellum I hope that helps. x
I'm so sorry. I'll try and get this video remade over the next few weeks. It's pretty poor I agree! Hopefully this will help .... There is a triangular fold at every corner that you press in as you move the box round. On the last edge you need to fold both corners in together.... its a bit fiddly till you get the hang of it. But once you do, you should be able to fly through them. x
There is a triangular fold at every corner that you press in add you move the box round. On the last edge you need to fold both corners in together.... its a bit fiddly till you get the hang of it but they are amazing little boxes ❤
Hi I'm afraid that I don't have a link. But if you search "Toner Reactive Foil" you will find that there are lots of options. Personally I love a brand called "Minc". But there are other cheaper alternatives that also work.
I am SO sorry!!! You are completely right. That's what happens when you let your husband take over for the day!!!! I will definitely remake the video as soon as I can. I am sorry you didn't find it helpful!
Hi We used a handmade recycled cotton rag paper and card. You can see our full range here: imaginediy.co.uk/collections/handmade-card-paper-and-envelopes
Hi We've tried lots of different printers and there is not really a huge amount of variance. But I have found that choosing one with a manual feed (or front loading) tray is the best option for card.
Hi We have these manufactured in bulk using a very very expensive piece of machinery. So it's all computer programmed rather than made with metal dies. But the actual laser cut envelopes area available for purchase on our website if you'd like to take a look: imaginediy.co.uk/collections/laser-cut-invitations
I would definitely stick to toner reactive foil! I've never tried using the alternative so I would be interested to hear if it works. But the toner reactive foil is sold specifically for this purpose. So it's a much safer bet.
Hi thanks so much for this video! I am wondering if there is any restrictions on card weight? And whether is is okay to have a slightly textured cardstock?
Do you have to print in black or could it be navy? The reason I ask is because we only one part of the invitation to have the foil, and we want the other parts to be a navy ink.
Thank you for this video! I'm now a subscriber. May I ask, what temperature is best to achieve this? I mean, to transfer all foil to the laser printed invite without void.
Hi You are very welcome. I'm sorry for the slow reply. I've been caught up in life events and am just picking things back up again. Choosing the right temperature is a little bit of an art. It will depend on the foil you choose. I wold start at appx. 110 degrees and adjust it from there.
Hi Leah, I am a 2023 bride and I absolutely love this invitations. Our colors for our wedding is burnt orange and dark green. And I was wondering if you made those envelopes and the cut pocket in any of those colors. I would love love love to purchase these from you for my wedding invite.
Wassup! Although I have never even tried to make wax seals yet, I could deduce two possible causes for your issue, both of which can be easily remedied. Firstly, I'd make sure your tealights are freshly bought. From my experience with some old scented candles, I noticed that initially, the wicks would stay lit with a healthy flame, but within the minute, would soon shrink down to the bottom of the wick, as the wick itself turned grey on top and withered away. The exact cause of this remains unknown to me, but it's no doubt due to the candles old age. Ultimately, if the tealights you're using are old, or even if you bought them and still notice this phenomenon, then it would be best just to get some new or overall superior ones. The second, and potentially more likely cause, is a lack of oxygen to the flame. You've seen it in candle-snuffs: how they cover the flame to isolate it from oxygen, thus extinguishing it. A more apt analogy would be Jack' o' Lanterns On more intricate carvings, sometimes an additional vent is required to allow for oxygen to sustain the flame. You'll notice that the air vents are those two large gaps on the sides of the furnace, as well as those four smaller holes on the metal base where the spoon rests. There are a few solutions I could think of: 1) Notice the tealights this lady uses are rather squat. The metal casing of taller tealights may restrict proper airflow, thus causing the flame to go out once the spoon covers the only means of adequate air. If this is the case, then the tealights may work if modified, or you may just want to get squatter ones. 2) Alternatively, raising the furnace itself up a little higher may aid in providing the necessary oxygen. In this way, the flame is not only in better proximity to the gaps, but it is also more spacious where the candle itself resides, allowing a chance for oxygen to come in and not get burned up immediately. The only problem is that this may effect how quickly the wax melts due to the fact that the flame would be further away from the spoon. 3) If none of these methods work, then the only thing left to do to enhance air flow is a matter of graceful destruction. You could carefully bore out the preexisting air vents, either the wood or the metal spoon base, or make your own air vents by drilling out holes. DO THIS AS A LAST RESORT!!! I definitely advise against this and say don't do it unless you have no other choice. (I'm also gonna say that I am not responsible if this damages your furnace.) If you find yourself having to do this, I do recommend a certain procedure for each way to do this. a) The Side Vents: Either a dremmel or Rat-Tail file may be used to bore out the left and right walls and perhaps maybe the top wood header of the side vents. Be cautious not to take away too much, lest you risk heat escaping. If you use this method, do it gingerly in in small sessions with frequent tests in between. b) The Vents in The Metal Base Where the Spoon Rests: Again either a dremmel or file may be used, only this time I would suggest to use a very thin tip for the dremmel, or any file that is thin and has an edge (like a sword). The goal is not to really expand these semi-circle vents because doing so may effect the fit of the spoon. Instead, you're going to want to extend the vents by focusing on the arc part, moving away from the gap where the spoon rests. If the tools I suggested are too indelicate, then it might be best to drill a hole right outside the tip of the vent, and leave it or you can clip the separating part with some metal cutters to merge it with the original vent (a large set of wire cutters may work best), and just use some sandpaper to smooth things over. c) Your Own Vents: A drill is all that is needed. Drill a hole wherever best accommodates the flame and wherever you thinks looks best. For the sides I recommend, perpendicular from a bird's eye view to the side vents, perhaps angling up or down if you can. On the metal spoon rest, one or two holes is all I think you would need, but this is assuming you'd even want to drill through metal. Anyway, I hope this helps! Sorry in advance if it seemed at all patronizing, I'm just ignorant of your expertise with tools and stuff. Have a magnificent day or night, be careful, have fun, and God bless you! :D
