Welcome to Dual Sport Garage. I am passionate about sharing the best options to maximize your comfort, safety and fun. Thanks to the massive growth in our sport, more than ever, you have more ADV bikes, products, tools, and gear to choose from. Here you'll find honest reviews, updates, how-to's, and hacks. #AvantLink I am glad you stopped by!...Never Stop Exploring!
Hi yes, I have used these on a few different bikes, some of the strongest handguards out there, and shaped to easily work around your cables. Cycra Ultra Probend CRM Wrap Around Handguards (husky blue) Here are a couple links where you can find them amzn.to/3ZP1ouQ imp.i104546.net/R5J15b
I added a kickstand foot which added a little bit of height… So there’s no way the stock kickstand would’ve worked for me… Also, I don’t run much preload and loaded down with luggage the compressed suspension already makes the stock stand feel longer to begin with.
Why didn’t place the side cover unfilter to the further back position? It looks like it would fit inside the webbing on the inside, and not be compromised with the screw, like where you placed it.
Nice video, again. Bought a knock off balancer and it took some work to function the best it could. The vertical arms were not parallel so shimmed one arm on the bottom. And removed the bearing seals and grease and the bearings work much better. Just built it and have not used it yet so not sure if the bearings perform as well as your bearing upgrade yet.
Thanks for the video. Do you have torque spec for the 2 10mm bolts that needs to be held both side? (The one on the round hole in the frame with the 2 washers).
I don’t have that spec but the bolts at the top and bottom of the shock are 33 ft lbs. so using that as a guide but going a little less than spec to allow for some inaccuracy in my tool so as not to over tighten mid to high twenties is where I would start.
Thanks, I've had three of these visors and everyone was the same. Those screws are made to bite deep into the plastic and so they take some pressure to dig in...but it keeps them secure once they're in.
I can't say for sure. There doesn't seem to be a logical reason why it should ...but of course logic could have nothing to do with it. So, to be sure, check with your local bike shop. They could say better if they have ever been turned down on a warranty claim because someone made some tiny modification to the bike.
This is really the best installation instruction video on RU-vid I would add that these bags have a left and right side You can tell by the reflective strip on what used to be the back side of the bag
Sorry, I can’t say for sure because I didn’t run the fake pipe, but I’m sure it would be better than stock because the general consensus is that the stock head pipe is choking off the motor. I’m just not sure it would be as good as the Yosh pipe.
No, as long as all the connections are in contact with each other it won’t make a difference… However, I prefer to put heated grips on a switched accessory line which is available behind the headlight and which will keep your heated grips from draining your battery by accident because it only has power when the key is on. I have a video posted on my channel showing you where how to connect them…but even your current setup should be fine adding this to what you have.
I didn’t do a controlled comparison… Feels like I dropped 4 or 5 miles per gallon. I’m averaging up near 69 miles per gallon now , but I don’t ride this bike very aggressively.
Did not do a controlled comparison before and after but I am generally getting 69 miles per gallon now. Of course it depends on where and how you ride.
Wow sorry I almost missed this question… I can’t say for sure because I’m running an extra large wider comfort seat… nevertheless, the linkage I chose was 3/4” which I would say it’s accurate for the overall height reduction… Which is why I dropped the forks 3/4 of an inch.
I actually run soft bags, on this bike… tusk pilot, soft bags, and have had no issues with heat. But I’m also running full luggage racks which give me some distance between the pipe and the luggage hope that helps… Thanks!
When will people quit hacking these airboxes? Fluid dynamics engineers at Honda figure out this black art of air intake design. By drilling the airbox, removing the snorkel, etc. you destroy the resonance and reduce performance. The stock airbox, snorkel, and filter are designed to let in much more air than the bike could ever use. It does not need more air! It needs the pressure wave of dense air to hit the intake valve at the right time -- which you just ruined by hacking the box.
I thought about it, but I have four project bikes on the go and don’t want to spend all my time wrenching… If this was my only bike, I would probably do it.
I’m trying to decide between the Tusk excursion, or the Tusk Highland side bags, plus a medium or large duffel bag on top. I’m mounting it to my 300 Rally. I’ve heard one person say they didn’t like the Highland bags because they constantly were hitting the back of there boots. But I’m afraid to go with the Excursion bags and not have enough storage space. If you were to mount that Large Tusk duffle bag to your Rally, would you mount it sideways or longways?
I run the top bag sideways, with soft saddlebags (Tusk Pilot or Nelson-Rigg Sierra) and have my tent across the seat behind me so the top bag can't really fit longways with my set up. Hope that helps.
why is this a issue I'm 5'7" (1.7m for EU) I've never had a problem with my 701. in fact I think it could use more ground clearance my black dog skid plate is gonging all the time when I'm banging through single track . I mean do what you want its your bike but at lest rock it a bit before you start changing things up.
so if i'm reading those links right, seems like the amazon one is the exact same stand for less $ minus the tusk sticker. I can just throw one of my million tusk stickers that they already sent me with the many purchases i've made from RM on the amazon stand. Great video! thanks!
Conditions were very different on my before and after rides so I can’t say for sure how much was due to mods…but the bike does accelerate much better now so I would expect at least 4 mph.
at the time I shot this video the complete seat was not available. Just foam and a cover for $250 ish dollars. The complete seat appears to now be available but at a much higher price point. If you locate the foam and cover only it could save you $150. good luck.
That is a Warp 9 supermoto kickstand made for the 701SM. It is worth noting that it has an unusual round foot at the end. You will find it tough to locate a compatible foot pad that improves contact patch on the dirt, but I did find one that works with the Warp 9, albeit with a tiny modification, I have a video of that here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5zzdzeXDvoM.html
Greetings, As always another excellent detailed video production 🇺🇲🍾🎉🇺🇲 Would you provide me with the front sprocket cover mod video link, and keep producing more videos about the CRF
I just checked the link included in the description below the video and it came up $70 ish dollars. Also googled it...several other links around that price. Thanks for checking in...here's the link amzn.to/48jF3HV
Question. So I know the two small 8 mm. adjustment screws by the foot brake lever adjust free play ( 3-5mm. per spec. ). But, whey do you have to remove the entire foot peg assembly?
I needed much more correction than free play offered. I also hesitate to use up free play. More importantly, I want to use that free play to be very sure the brake is not dragging....could easily lead to issues. Cheers!
@@dualsportgarage Just for clarification. So if you remove the entire foot peg assembly and brake lever, you can adjust the foot brake lever much lower (away from engine case )? Thanks.
Why would you provide a (dead) link for an obviously counterfeit Yoshimura pipe??? Cheap Chinese counterfeit shit like this makes my blood boil. Not OK
Of those comfort seats you have there, how comfortable are they for a passenger? They seem wider and cushier in the front but I can’t see that much more padding in the back.
The foam on both aftermarket seats are definitely better than stock, but this is not a full sized adventure bike so the comfort is limited. Definitely not a GS or Africa twin seat.
I have a 2020 701 and I too am looking to lower it some. I ordered a Kouba KTM8-1 (1.25”) lowering link. I can’t raise my forks that much without hitting the handlebars. (There is about 5/8” clearance) I am looking for an internal kit to lower the forks. Do you have any suggestions for that?
I have not done that work myself before so I don't have any links to share. Suspension tuning shops and some local bike shops can certainly do that work for you of course. If you end up doing it yourself, let us know what you find. ...Good luck!
Hi, Thanks for the video! I have a Yoshimura already installed and wanted to add the Outback Motortek crash bars like you have but I am concerned that the header pipe and the bar bracket on the pipe side interfere with one another (brace gusset on the Motortek bracket). Accountant_Mechanic did a video of another aftermarket pipe and he had to grind off the gusset which isn't good but was necessary for bar fitment. I called Outback and in the case of the Yoshi, they could not tell me specifically only saying that grinding off the gusset would void the warranty and generalizing all aftermarket pipes as having the difficulty. It was clear they had not tried with the Yoshi. Did you have the interference issue?
The crash bars were already installed on the bike when I got it, and nothing looks modified and I made no modifications to the crash bars while installing the Yosh pipe … I’d be interested if anyone else has run into any issues ?!?
I'm kinda picky like you about bearings. I just put my stand together with high quality ABEC 11 skateboard bearings, they're close to the same dimensions. 8×22×7 vs 8×24×8 - they work great and the ones I ordered came with the washers that prevent any rubbing. A set of 8 cost $25 but these spin for days- really good.
Very True. Hopefully, this remains helpful for those riders who want to get this done quickly. This is an easy fix when the local bike shop is busy and wait times are long...this time of year it's painful to wait for a bike that's in the repair shop for weeks :)
the product description is CRF300L Rally - EJK Fuel Injection Controller 9110044 which is Gen 3. Also I did not change any of the settings. I just show you how to read the lights. For me it worked perfectly as configured out of the box. Hope that helps!
The backing plate is not well thought through, the big velcro straps need to go through the backing plate and will hold much better. The big straps over the seat are a must for me because I do not want to hang the bag solely on the rack. The straps carry a fair bit of wait on the saddle then, far less push or pull on the racks. especially on the track. This is a reasonably priced good product, that's why I bought it, but that backing plate is "half cooked"
