"Garage shenanigans" with a range of tech, automotive, electronics, and household items. Teardowns, repairs, projects, DIY guides, product reviews, and experiments with anything that strikes my fancy.
I have seen your RU-vid channel and discord that you are not getting more and more views. So if you are interested to work with me or interested get a free consultation then you can share your detail here so I can reach you.
Unfortunately, any advice you’d be able to provide is already available for free, and SEO optimization is largely irrelevant with how youtube works now. But you’ve interacted with this video by commenting, so you’ve already helped me plenty :)
You’re right to be cautions. A big danger with these is lack of isolation and large amounts of current available, so just as much risk of shock or electrocution as if you were directly applying line voltage. Requires the same safety procedures and common sense as working with any other live, mains powered equipment. What would you be using it for if you did end up buying after all?
@@MetaphysicalEngineer I don't really know, to be honest. Debugging analog electronics? I'm an ECE student so I see it as a tool that I can play with AC with, not that playing with AC sounds very safe. I know a guy who's more into analog and power electronics than I am (he's collected microwave transformers for "eventual use"), maybe he'll get the variac instead. I'm curious what he'd do with it!
If you’d be reconditioning things like amplifiers, a variac is an extremely handy tool. Combine with a ballast controller like I had in the load test and an incandescent lightbulb to carefully power up equipment that’s been sitting for a while. Or in general on equipment where you suspect damage or don’t know the history of. Slowly bringing up the voltage will allow things such as power supply capacitors to reform instead of punching through. The lightbulb will limit fault current and give a handy indication of problems if it glows brightly. Combined can prevent avoidable problems like exploding input stages, or stop a minor fault from causing a cascade failure. Other uses involve testing a design’s tolerance of line voltage going out of spec. I have a few much older videos where I used this device for destruction, or for science, such as running a fluorescent tube on variable voltage DC with a lightbulb for a ballast.
A little bit of care now and then and these units can almost last forever. Glad you found this video helpful! How much and what kind of use does your unit see?
Hey man. Thanks for the vid. I love all that old kit. I don't know if it means anything, but... I clicked the "Like" button but the like counter stayed at zero???
Thanks for the kind words! Hoping to keep this gear going for many more years! That's quite strange about the comments! Let me check the settings on my end.
Cool upgrade. I recently did a similar one: 2018 AM4 board with a Ryzen 2700X and 16GB of RAM upgraded to 48GB and 4TB NVME. Funnily enough, the Ryzen 5950X is the highest supported CPU for my board and I was considering going for it, bt ultimately decided against it, because it only doubles the speed compared to the old CPU, but for a 300 EUR price point which I deem is way too much, especially considering that the Ryzen 2700X is still plenty for video editing, gaming and productivity software. In your case, I would have probably gone for a cheaper, but more modern ASUS board and a current AMD CPU to extend the longevity of the system, because everything else you have in there should last you quite a while. Cool that you have an M-Drive. Never saw one before. May be you could make a video on the M-Disc format and your experience with it? If you used those discs that is.
All depends on what you need it to do! If the 2700X does all you need and still works, no reason to swap it yet! Sounds like your rig benefitted a lot from the upgrades as is. In my case I was severely overtaxing the CPU before the upgrade so I'd take what I could get. At the time, the newest AMD chips were much more expensive and the 9000 series wasn't ready yet. I'd also need to buy all new ram too for a 7000 or 9000 series. Maybe I am paranoid but I like some mobo overbuilding when the CPU will run flat out at maximum socket power for hours upon hours. As is the VRMs get a bit warm. I have plans for follow up videos at some point, so I can include how the M.2 drive is working too. That form factor's older than you think, starting to appear around 2012, but was first used in laptops because tiny size and very power efficient. Extreme performance is the other major benefit, as flash memory easily outpaces SATA 3 but the PCIe interface can move much more data.
@@MetaphysicalEngineer I completely get the VRM concerns. Usually, I trust ASUS with their design and build quality and didn't have an issue driving my B450M-A board to the limit. Ever since the "ROG mainboard killing Ryzen CPU"-scandal I'm a little bit more weary of the company's quality management. Understandable that you didn't want to throw out the RAM. I kept mine too. I'm using the same Ripjaws modules and they are currently dirt cheap. 64GB can be bought for 100 EUR over here. That M2 video will be interesting. In my case, switching from a really slow SSD with 50MB write speed to a blazingly fast NVME that was able to max out my old 32GBit port didn't do anything in terms of speed gains until I turned off swapping entirely.
Nominal voltage here is 120 for 1440W. In the states, the NEC lists 80% of branch circuit capacity as max continuous load for durations of more than 3 hours. For durations less than 3 hours loads may equal the branch circuit rated current, so 1800W on a general purpose 15A circuit. This surge protector's overload warning is tuned to alert the user they have reached or exceeded the continuous load rating. Temp rise stabilized around the time I recorded the end of the load test, so I'm confident it will handle indefinite operation at 12A at normal ambient temps. 20A is common for higher power kitchen or utility or workshop branch circuits for 1920W continuous or 2400W short term. Portable devices rated for 20A are not as common and will use a different plug. Some light workshop or refrigeration equipment may have such a plug. Devices such as clothes dryers, air conditioners, etc needing more will use a 208 or 240V dedicated circuit. Three phase service is unheard of in residential applications and only starts to be used in light commercial.
@@MetaphysicalEngineer we commonly have 15a 240v connections for high load. 3 phase is less common but still found in commercial kitchens, workshops, and some residential sheds. Usually 415v. But you can get 240v from a single phase.
My understanding is this is one of the standard Surge Protection circuits. With the other one just moving the location of the thermal fuses so they cut power to the outlets permanently once tripped. That's what they're pointing you to in the manual Not replace the MOV's. Buy a different surge protector. Never noticed the J mismatch before. Kind of upsets me. It's probably banking on the over current to kick in if the MOVs are cooking. In that case I think I actually prefer the design that cuts power to the outlets permanently. At least then a surge has to get past that (blown) fuse.
Yeah the power cut when the L-N MOV cooks and takes out F1 is the final safety measure. But a surge N to G or L to G may well take out MOV 2 or 3 with no outward indication damage has occurred. Hence the confusing instructions to replace a device with compromised protection but the device can't warn the user it is no longer capable of protecting against further hits of that sort. Starting to wonder if the joule ratings on the data sheet is for max single event surge that will degrade the MOV beyond usefulness. While APC has perhaps done testing to find the MOVs can take dozens of much smaller surges spread over time adding up to 800J. MOV failure seems to be thermal in nature, so the smaller the hits and the more spaced out, the longer the MOV will last. Certainly something I'll find out more about in the follow up where I will take apart several more surge protectors.
Getting this unit for ten bucks was a no brainer. Overload indicators should really be a more common feature on multi outlet power strips. And now I want to open all the other surge protectors I have to see the build quality and design differences!
Last week I was at Siemens North of Atlanta Georgia and needed a power strip for the hotel room. I stopped at a Micro Center and picked up this very same surge protector.
I ran into a similar issue with a Kemelo surge protector I recently bought on Amazon. Unlike that APC one, this one not have a separate protection LED and its user guide only mentions about its overload protection breaker and nothing about surge protection, which makes me wonder if it has any MOVs. My previous Belkin surge protector had a separate protection LED that no longer lights up after about 10 years of use, which is the reason I replaced it.
Thanks for the input! Do you remember the full product name of the Kemelo unit you bought or have a link? MOVs are very cheap so it may have surge protection, but I doubt it has thermal fuses or anything else. Belkin seems to have a decent reputation, and I have one of their units with a protection indicator. I'll be taking a closer look at it in the follow up.
The Kemelo one has the model number FMK235 - It has 8 AC outlets as a tower (2 per side), 4 USB charging ports and a 3M (10ft) lead. My previous Belkin SurgeMaster 8 AC outlet power strip has the model F9M823uk2M. The AC outlets still work, so still useful as a basic power strip.
The scary thing is, this is already way nicer than the really cheap ones! Now I'm very curious what those look like inside, and how much I'd need to pay before the protection indicator is accurate.
Yeah. Lots of projects were worked on there, long before I was around, so the patina is cool. Painting it a solid color would help the image quality on camera though.
Amigo tem como você me tirar uma dúvida essa placa mãe deixa o seu processador trabalhando com os clock's em qual velocidade máxima em todos os núcleos
"Desculpe pela resposta tardia, e desculpe por quaisquer erros na tradução! A velocidade máxima depende da temperatura e do limite de potência do processador. Também depende da sorte de conseguir um bom processador. Com resfriamento líquido, consegui atingir 4,4 gigahertz em todos os núcleos. Pode ser possível ir mais rápido, mas ainda não tentei."
Agreed. Only didn't yet since that area will be remodeled soon(tm) and the actual placement of cables may change. There will be a video about that part coming when it happens. Looking to put in hardwired ethernet to a few rooms too.
In preparation for the fiber installation on our farm, I installed 70 feet of 1/2 inch PVC conduit and ran a pull cord through it so the installation was a breeze! By using a conduit, I was able to do a direct run from the junction box on the outer wall of my house to the network rack in my telecom closet, assuring that there could be not be any chance of a pinched, cut, or kinked fiber cable. It is very important not to exceed the minimum bend radius, as a small radius in fiber results in data loss and therefore lower throughput. I installed the conduit myself so my only cost was my time and materials, and I don't know what it would cost someone to hire an electrician to do the job. However, I feel that conduit should always be used to get the best quality and longevity from your fiber line.
If I had known how limited the installer actually would be, I'd have definitely set up pulling tools ahead of time! Didn't use conduit but do have everything strapped up in the attic now so can't flop around or chafe against anything. As is the sharp edges of the vent would have sliced the cable apart in a matter of months. How's the fiber been working for you? How long ago did you get it installed?
@@MetaphysicalEngineer I have been on fiber since the beginning of May this year and I couldn't be happier. Here in southern Vermont, we have Fidium (Consolidated Communications) as our provider, and though they offer much faster throughput, I went with their lowest speed of 100 Gbps which is plenty for our household (I can always go much higher if I want to pay more). Having fiber is awesome, especially since there is no line interference as with the VDSL service that we had before. Another nice thing about our fiber service is that even though the IP address that we have is not static, it is "sticky" so I always know how to access my system from the public side via VPN. By "sticky", I mean that it does not normally change. Anyway, I hope you are enjoying your fiber service!
Fun Fact: in India(Delhi) I am paying 70 dollars for this fiber to my home and 30 dollars for optional static IP, Annually. The subscription is on monthly basis so no committing headache and guy comes every month to collect cash!
why put fiber into attic vent? instead of dedicated hole. since you can't relocate it, assuming it needed splices too. unsure totally different country here, but here i insisted i'll do internal myself. and even had to redo the overhead entry as it gave way somewhat somehow due poor placement of screw hook hell with such installs, i didn't complain about that, just fixed it on my own
The installer went with the easiest route where the (much older, well before we moved in) coax was routed. I didn't touch the fiber before since I didn't want to get blamed for breaking it. When the installer is supposed to do the install, I boldly and quite incorrectly expected them to "come prepared with everything they need". How wrong I was!
Attics are a liability. It is too easy to damage the home or get injured. Also it is not like they get paid extra for pain in the ass jobs. Jobs they have no experience doing like attics they don't service.
I agree attics are dangerous. However, contractors in my area need a minimum of a million bucks of liability insurance against property damage and injury. Even more beyond a certain number of employees / certain volume of sales. That should be the least of their concerns. I had "no experience" in attics when I started my previous HVAC job. I got trained. Once I had experience, I in turn trained new people. Nervous kids who'd never seen the world above the ceilings became deft navigators of the utility spaces. Indicative of systematic problems in throwing untrained people into the field too early, and of major communications breakdown where the customer info for preparing for installs doesn't mention how limited the installers actually will be.
i got my fiber installed... last year in December the company rolled up with a fleet of truck's and Equipment had the line down underground and me connected and online within 2 hours
Low Voltage Tech here (Retired), the reason for the LOOOOOONNNGGGGG fiber is they use pre-terminated cables. When we FINALLY got fiber out here and someone other than SPECTRUM (thank god, they were killing me on $$$ for next to nothing for speed). They asked me where abouts I wanted the ONT and how far it was from the injection point (D-mark). I told them it was 130' from were the D-mark was on the side of the house to my server closet. They were not happy because after 120' they could only place orders at 100' lengths added, so I ended up with a 200' cable. So I had to mount a cable spool box in the server closet to eat up almost 70' of extra line lol. As for the no attic work, I can understand it. Todays techs are scary bad at their jobs, yell I had to actually install my parents alarm because the the two techs they sent didn't even know how to wire a take over module for a G2 alarm panel. Hell they didn't even know how to diag a bad reed switch for a door sensor, it was crazy both of them swore they had been doing this for at least 6 years. Mind you I had only been out of the game for 5 years at that point. So it wasn't like wireless alarm panels were the norm yet. (2016 is when all this happened)
Interesting! I figured it was pre terminated, though the installer who strung the cable from the pole had a measuring wheel. Maybe it was a case where we fell between lengths so had to give us extra! Not shown in video but I carefully hung that extra coil in the attic where it can't get tangled or trampled. As for techs not doing jobs properly, that's an everywhere problem. When I did HVAC I ran into so many second opinion calls where small issues had been messed up into major ones. Or cases where homeowners had been given a fear mongering three page list of problems to address that totaled a significant chunk of the cost of a system replacement which they were not in a position to pay at the time. That "tech" missed the two actual glaring issues which I was able to fix with the standard spare parts in the truck. Happy homeowners, and we got another system replacement job in that neighborhood from their recommendations.
@@crazysquirrel9425 No its not, but you have to understand that most of the "Techs" are nothing more than hardware installers. Most don't even know how to terminate a CAT cable let alone fiber.
@@crazysquirrel9425 Making fiber terminations is not that simple. Despite what you mite think fiber is actually a very thin glass string. So when you cut it the cut is very ruff on an optical level. So after cutting it you have to polish the cut end before putting the termination goes on it. There are many ways to go the polishing but for a basic tech it's not worth the time for him or the company to have him do it on site for you cable.
Automatic translation of an operator's instructions for their customers about the installation of a fiber connection. Not all local operators have exactly the same policies or details, but they tend to have much in common. Can I influence which route the optical fiber is brought to my detached house? Yes, you can influence which route the optical fiber is brought to your house As the start of construction approaches, our fiber optic installer will contact you and arrange a time to view the home's yard route. During the inspection, the customer and the fiber installer together plan a suitable route for the optical fiber, which takes into account possible obstacles such as cables, pipes, yard paving, tiling and trees. Stones and asphalt are tried to be avoided and/or a route with the smallest footprint is chosen. In connection with digging the cable, the excavation footprint in the yard is filled. Environmental restoration work on the customer's plot, such as grass cutting and restoration of plantings, paving stones and asphalt, are the customer's responsibility. As far as possible, ready-made piping is always used primarily. It is the customer's responsibility to find any piping and pipe ends ready before installation. In newer houses, it is sometimes possible to do the installation in the technical room of the house, from where the cabling of the local area network connections to the different rooms of the home starts. If there is no cabling, a logical location from the direction of the trunk fiber to the house is chosen together with the customer. Please note that sufficient space is required for the internal installation of the optical fiber and the hole to be drilled through the wall. It is therefore recommended to think in advance about a suitable location for the fiber terminal and to clear the space for the installation. Please make sure that there is also an outlet near the terminal for the necessary electricity. Typically, the fiber optic installer also performs the interior installations and digs the route for the fiber optic in the same visit. However, the fiber optic installation can also be carried out in a different order, for example indoor installations can be carried out in winter and other site works in summer. During the visit, the fiber optic installer will ask for your signature on the installation document, with which you give permission to install the fiber optic. At the same time, you will receive a document on how to start and instructions for setting up the fiber optic connection.
We've had fibre to the home since at least 2016 here in NZ, I have had gigabit since 2017. In certain areas of NZ you can get 2, 4 and 8 Gbit/s "Hyperfibre"
One of my friends in a pretty rural area of the USA got fiber more than a decade ago. That 200+ year old farmhouse way out in the sticks had better connection than my parents' place close to a major city. Somewhat relatable about the lights. One of my PC monitors has a very bright blue power light that bugged my lady at night so had to put a piece of tape over it!
Yeah in another case we might have had to call *another* installer to finish what the ISP customer info said their techs would do. For all the annoying bits, my previous job taught me a ton of useful skills.
In my country cabling is put underground in a protective pipe and telephone poles are historic memories. Operators bring cabling indoors through a cable conduit. It comes into technical spaces in the basement or through a wall to the first floor depending on what the owner wants and the type of building it is. It would be a very unusual situation when something is put hanging in the air. Perhaps a historic protected building where there already is a cable in the air and digging or making a new hole to the building wouldn't be allowed.
You're right; this is an old neighborhood. Not historically protected, but built in the 1960s. Around here most older and residential construction has overhead lines, while newer and more urban areas have all utilities underground. Basements are quite rare here too; this house is built on a concrete slab with no basement or crawl space underneath. All plumbing, electrical, etc runs through the attic.
I think it is a installer thing. If the installer isn't ok with doing it, then they won't. It might be less about being lazy and more about a bad experience or something mental like being in a closed space like that. Then again, they really might have a policy on it.
Sounding more and more like a policy thing. From a safety standpoint as someone who's worked in attics a lot, I can agree that attics are dangerous. From a "train people to do the job they will be expected to do" standpoint, it's silly that we might have had to hire a separate installer if I'd been unable to pull the cable myself, after the customer info claimed the installer would handle the rest assuming there was power. This is an extremely typical layout for residential construction in the area.
@@manandatractor for me attics 'win' just because of the heat lmao. But squeezing my 6'2 frame under my parents house has always been... interesting. Never had to do it on the job except in the NAVY and at least those are maintained lol
Guess google removed my last comment, but you are able to replace frontier's ONT with your own hardware for more control if your not using its tv/phone service. Easy to find more info on youtube and dslreports website. I posted two links but guess its why my older post was removed.
Thanks for the info! I was wondering why the comment count didn't match the actual number of visible comments! Probably was the links. Annoying that it doesn't even give me as the video creator a chance to review and just tosses them to the void instead.
I work for a big telecom company and we have never done attics, do to it being a safety hazard and for any car less to cause any damage with a the wrong step. Instead of you filling out a form saying damages won’t be covered if a mishap they just don’t let us touch it. But hey if you want to run the wire by all means
Thanks for the insight! Interesting to see the approaches certain trades have. I totally get it from a safety/liability perspective. Attics are plenty dangerous. Confined space, entanglement, fall hazard, thermal hazard, etc. Worked HVAC so quite familiar with that working environment. My point is this represented a major communication breakdown between the customer info to prepare for the install and what the installer actually could/would do. From my perspective this was one of the easiest attic pulls possible and all the info we got beforehand said that it was doable. What would be the solution if had I not been able to pull cables myself, and if the existing coax was missing or unusable for MoCA? ONT on exterior of house and router in the garage? Great if I wanted to stream from my workbench but terrible for signal everywhere else!
@@MetaphysicalEngineer All the operators I know of in my country have a better process to communicate with their customers about the installation. They are not perfect at all, but the basics to enable and streamlining of installations are important for their business too so they care. Operators subcontract installation companies, which have it as their core businesses and plenty of experience. They know and follow relevant regulations well enough to protect themselves from difficult responsibilities. While doing that they also protect their customers.
@@MetaphysicalEngineer The thing is every house is different so it varies drastically depending on the sanario( Is the fibre network arial or buried?/ What side of the house can we bring the wire too./ Do you have a fishished or unfinished basement or even drop ceiling?/ Is there any conduit in the walls?) Sometimes we have no choice to put the fibre in a back corner of the house. Especially if some customers don’t want wires running around they’re house. As a technician I try to find middle ground with customers on where we can and can’t put it and help then get to a spot they are okay or happy with. Lastly for what the sales person said what can be done is never true. We run into this issue daily as well and I hate all the misleading information! Sadly I am unable to do anything but explain the the customer at the time what’s possible.
Certainly a management / sales communication issue. If they'd given any indication anywhere that attic work could be problematic, I'd have had my fish tape and knee pads ready when the installer showed up! Maybe I'm spoiled since I learned how to do sales and size ups for my HVAC job, even if just getting basic info about type of structure, estimated attic or crawl distance and conditions, where things would enter and where it needed to go inside.
Are you using a variable transformer like this? Other things I can think of off the top of my head for variable suction would be adding a valve to bleed off some of the suction force. For variable motor speed, universal motors like this can run off a Triac dimmer type circuit. Might need to search a suitably robust dimmer though, as typically they are limited to maybe 600W.
Thanks! Definitely a weird one. I got a much older video about another compressor, also with a strange premature failure (if you haven't seen it yet) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TseJMRPt6Bs.html
Glad it was helpful! If you still have issues of the engine slamming around, there are four other locations that may also need attention on a vehicle of this vintage: front and rear hydraulic motor mounts, lower transmission torque mount, and right side motor mount. I do not have videos about those since I've not done those jobs myself, but RobertDIY is another channel with all manner of content on this era of Volvo.
@MetaphysicalEngineer okay thank you! What I would like to see is how to remove the torque rod bushing without any speical tools. Because I am not sure how to get that one out. I have replaced the right side engine mount and transmission mount. The other 2 hydraulic mounts are on the way and the firewall mount.
In my case, the bushing was already falling apart so the metal sleeve came out pretty easily. A drill bit of correct size can be used to break up the rubber between outer casing and the sleeve if yours isn't as far gone as mine was. A press can make removal easier, but carefully cutting and prying the remains out also does the trick. Only cut/score as much as needed to get pry tools in there and peel it out. You don't want to damage the bore itself.
My bad; you're right! Units so old finding solid info is getting difficult. I now see the internal battery is for keeping the user set waypoints memory powered when the main batteries are removed. Is yours having problems where it loses/erases waypoints when the main batteries are removed? I still have mine so I can try to get a video made about that, even though mine still does have a working battery.
i have the magellan gps 315, all works good, very accurate (2 meters with good signal) only the date is wrong, now is 12-aug-2024 but the gps shows 27-dec-04, i don't know if than can i solve, i was searching a date configuration, but, i don't found, only can change the time, but not the date, in the manual says the option, but in my gps don't appear, someone knows if can i configure the date?
The GPS is supposed to receive the date and time from the satellite signal automatically, but I think is too old to process the date. Mine has same issue where only the time is correct! A minor side effect of using these gems well beyond expected service life.
Congrats on an awesome upgrade. I don't like Asus because they don't care about their customers and overpriced products but when you can get an Asus Mobo at a good price it's def worth it, got the z390 hero for 75$ for my 9900k and I love that board, much better than the z390 aorus elite I had before, barely was able to get 5Ghz stable with 3800 cl16, 18, 18, 36 on the Gigabyte board, on the Asus board was able to get 5.1Ghz stable and even 5.2 for benching with 4000 cl16, 16, 16, 32, love the debug display + you can set it to show CPU temp after boot.
Those are some nice OC numbers you got! My poor 6700k really didn't like to boost too well. Lost the silicon lottery a bit there. Got better luck with the new hardware; just need to dial it in (as if a 350% performance boost still isn't enough!) You're right in that I only got this board because it was deeply discounted, approaching the price point of boards a few notches down that lacked the debug display and overbuilt VRM. Display is tucked way up in the corner, but I can see it through the top grille without opening any panels. Also got it set to show CPU temp.
Magic Jelly Bean, seriously... it's great *edit... I have to point out, on the 5.25 drive bay, you can easily remove the quick lock and then the normal screw holes are underneath, which should line up with your usb dock.
Thanks for the tip! I’ll look into that when I do an update video sometime since I have made a few other small changes since the bulk of the recording happened for this one.
There's actually an accessory power plug under the dash with the wiring you would need to tap into for the dash cam! Constant 12V, accessory switched 12V, and ground. See here in the owner's manual for the pinout. Page 6:13 - Replacing Fuses volvo.custhelp.com/app/manuals/OwnersManual/om_id/1024 Unhook battery before doing anything with that connector. Use an appropriately size fuse for the dash cam since the battery connector claims 20A max but is actually fed from the 30A fuse #16 in the fusebox.
@@MetaphysicalEngineer im so not knowledgeable, do you mean the cigarette lighter? I think i had a friend recommend splicing into that but i'm unsure as i cant find much to read on any of this
Follow that link I attached in the previous reply and navigate to page 6:13 in the manual. Connector is located up in the driver side footwell. I think it will be yellow plastic.
