Unrelated but here’s some correct hamster care: Cage size: In the US the recommended minimum amount of floorspace is 450 square inches or 2900 square centimeters. This is referring to unbroken floorspace so levels do not count toward this, neither do connecting multiple cages with tubes. The way to calculate floorspace is by measuring the width and length of the base of the cage and multiplying them together. That being said 450 square inches might be the recommended minimum but it is much better surpass that if you can. Most hamsters will require more space than this to be happy and can show signs of boredom or stress. Hamsters need horizontal space rather than vertical height. Hamsters are not natural climbers like rats, some may like climbing more than others but they are really bad at it, which is why they do not need vertical space. They have poor vision and are basically blind, what they can see is very blurry and dark which makes them terrible climbers. Some recommend dwarfs to have at least 600 square inches, male Syrians to have at least 800 square inches, and female Syrians to have at least 1000 square inches. Bedding: The most common safe beddings include anything paper based (unscented) or aspen wood shavings. Unsafe beddings include, but not limited to, softwood shavings like pine or cedar, cotton bedding, or anything dust related. Hamsters are burrowing animals so they need a lot of bedding and bedding that will hold burrows. Paper bedding holds burrows the best, adding hay in between layers of paper bedding helps hold burrows more. The hay shouldn’t be pointy or poky where it could hurt your hamster like poke them in the eye. It’s safe if they eat it but it is not required or necessary part of their diet like a rabbit or guinea pig. There are other safe beddings/substrates but the ones mentioned are the most common. Since hamster burrow they need plenty of bedding. This means they should have at least 6 inches of bedding in some part of the cage, shooting for 8-12 inches. Some hamsters won’t burrow until there is 10 inches of bedding. Substrates: Some other substrates that are safe for hamsters are soil (nothing with added chemicals such as fertilizers), sand (nothing dust related or added calcium or dyes, children’s play sand is a common type people use), and coconut fiber (choir). Hamsters have very sensitive respiratory systems so anything dusty can cause irritation and possibly infection. ErinsAnimals and HoppingHammy have many videos on RU-vid about different types of substrates in their cages. Wheel size: Hamster wheels are necessary for a hamster, it allows them to let out their energy as they can run many miles in the wild and needs to be properly sized. A wheel that is too small will cause a curvature in the hamster’s back causing back problems. Unsafe wheels include metal or metal meshed wheels. Hamsters have very sensitive foot pads and can be easily irritated by continuously walking over a surface that is not solid, this can cause bumble foot. Their legs and feet can get caught in between the metal bars or mesh causing them to injure themselves and possible broken bones. On a side note, hamster balls are also unsafe for a variety of reasons. They do not allow for enough ventilation and hamsters cannot see where they are going and are not able to stop themselves unless they run into an object that stops them, it can be stressful and scary for them, and their toes can get caught in the ventilation holes causing injury. Hamster wheels should have a solid running surface. Some have front coverings which are good for dwarfs to prevent them from being thrown from the wheel since they run very fast. Wheels come in various sizes and different requirements for different species. Adult Syrian hamsters will typically need an 11-12 inch wheel or 28-31 centimeters. Smaller Syrians would be able to use an 8 inch wheel (20 cm) but most will need the 11-12 inch one. Chinese hamsters need similar sized wheels as Syrians. Dwarf hamsters will typically need an 8 inch wheel, it is possible for them to have a 6.5 inch (17 centimeter) but sometimes they will need to be upgraded. As long as a hamster is able to push the wheel no size is too big. Flying saucers are also another wheel option. These will still need to be appropriately sized and can also cause a hamster’s back to be curved. 8 inches would be appropriately sized for dwarfs while 12 inches would be appropriate for a Syrian. Food: Hamsters are omnivores so they eat a variety of food. Your hamster’s food should consist of a varied seed mix and possibly lab blocks/pellets for added proteins. Most seed mixes do not contain enough protein on their own. Generally a good guaranteed analysis is 17-19% protein, 4-7% fat, 6-15% fiber. Dwarf hamsters need more protein so something closer to 20-23%. Younger/baby hamsters also need more protein than adults. Animal protein is a good way to help boost this too. These can include mealworms, superworms, crickets, shrimp, dehydrated chicken, etc. Hamsters are also able to eat fruits and vegetables and is actually encouraged to incorporate them into your hamster’s diet. Sugars in general should be more limited just because hamsters do not need lots of sugar in their diet and can be quite unhealthy for them. Dwarfs are also more prone to diabetes. The Hamster Hideout Forum is a good resource to use, they have threads on safe and unsafe foods and commercial food brands. Food Cleaning: Depending on the size of the enclosure it can vary when needing to do a full clean. Spot cleaning is something that should be done every few days, removing any soiled bedding. Poop is fine because once it is dry it is virtually scentless, hard pieces. Hamsters are also known to eat their own poop for nutritional value. Doing major cleans can be very stressful which is why it is recommended to keep some of your hamster’s old bedding and also not recommended to do frequently. It should not be done more than once a month (unless there is a health concern such as mites) and most times it can go a lot longer than that. Vet: It is unnecessary and stressful to take your hamster to the vet unless there is a problem. Hamsters do not need to get spayed/neutered, vaccinations, or routine checkups. Obviously if there is a problem please take your hamster to the vet so they can get the proper treatment they deserve. Hamsters are also really good at hiding pain or illnesses because they are prey animals. Pairs: It is not recommended to house pairs of hamsters together as it can become dangerous, add stress to your hamsters, and they can possibly hurt or kill each other. Syrian and Chinese hamsters are strictly solitary animals. Dwarfs can be successful in pairs but most likely fall out. Hamsters are not social animals and do not crave human attention or the attention of their own species, therefore they do not get lonely. Hamsters typically do not live with one another in the wild, they come together for protection or to mate. Pairs will need at least double the amount of space and double of everything so they do not become territorial or fight over items. They need to be a bonded pair, coming from the same litter (same age), same sex, and same species. Also, just because you see hamsters in the same cage in the pet store does not necessarily mean that they are litter mates. The Hamster Hideout Forum is a good resource to use, they have threads on housing pairs together and the risks involved.
