Bought the knife after watching your video. I open/cut up hundreds of boxes as I work in a warehouse. And I've tried so many different types of Stanley knifes and none have lasted. Due to the heavy work load. Heard a few comments about the milwaukee fastback being the same but cheaper. Which I have myself been using for the last couple of years. But this knife is on another level! Expensive but worth every penny. Thanks mate keep up the good work
Correct me if I’m wrong but I’m fairly sure I didn’t use “handcrafted” and “CNC” in the same sentence. I’m also NOT an engineer! I believe the guys at kinetic customs machine the parts and then hand fit and assemble them, to me as a layman, that’s hand crafted. They also put a lot of work into the design and prototyping! That I know is done by hand.
@@Redbeardcarpentryco sorry…”same video” if the figure of speech didn’t suffice. I like them but it just seems a little over the top to say with how things that are mechanically churned out these days.
@SecretSquirrel-et6dl I completely understand where you are coming from as most “mass produced” products are garbage. This however has been very well thought out and the manufacturing is flawless. You would probably have to see one for yourself to appreciate the quality! These are not like any other “off the shelf” knife.
I thank goodness that in 40+ years of carpentry I never had to deal with metric measurements! I've been using Japanese saws for my retirement gig, guitar building, and I definitely need one of those slick angle gauges, but given the difficulty of center finding and division into 1/4ers and 1/3rds, the near impossibility of factoring a base ten measurement system, I only use metric rules when plans or parts demand that use. Maybe there's a metric rule with useful units smaller than 1mm, I haven't seen one...I regularly use the 1/32 and 1/64 marks on my Imperial rules. During my home building/remodeling decades one prime objective was layout, and how much easier that is with measurements that factor into each other...sorry for the rant, looking at buying my first quality set of Japanese chisels, though I am pretty attached to my Stanley planes;)
Thankfully I learnt both as an apprentice and it’s been very useful throughout my career. In the uk most manufacturing companies work in metric however we still have to use imperial for things like doors 🤷♂️ I don’t really understand why 😂 For that kind of refined work I would definitely recommend Japanese chisels! You will immediately notice the difference.
@@Redbeardcarpentryco Got a beautiful set of Damascus style Nomis picked out! For any manufacturing or building process where operations are digitized and machine controlled (CNC and the like) the units of measurement aren't important...you just let the machine worry about crunching the numbers. For operations executed by humans the units ARE important, particularly when there isn't a great match between spatial visualization skills, task invention and ordering skills, seat of the pants engineering skills, and math skills. Take those doors, in the U.S. they are sized in 2-inch increments...2'4" doors, 2'6" doors, 3'0" doors, with the rough opening two inches greater than the nominal door. Doors are 6'8" (or 80") tall unless special ordered, and the rough opening is 1"-1 1/2" greater. This is arithmetically simple and easy to remember, no need to look hard to find the tics on the tape, each is boldly marked in red, and there are always materials on site that can be combined to fill in 1" or 2" or other round or fractional increments should you make an arithmetic error or need to fit a custom size door, thickness wall etc. Metric suffers from its base ten lack of factorability (prime factors of 2 and 5) made more complicated by its lack of intermediate length units (teenths, eighths, quarters, halves, inches, feet) that easily factor into each other and have clear tics on the tape. Call me dumb but I'd rather deal with a 4'x8' piece of sheet goods than a 1200 mm by 2400mm sheet, particularly when I'm laying out framing or figuring square feet of coverage...as you might guess I've had way too much time alone or isolated by ear plugs on a job site to think about these things;)
I like the look and the quality. though 60 quid may be a bit steep for what it is. But the biggest nope for me, is the pocket clip "tip down" placement. (Most knives of this type has the same problem) Mounting it "tip up" would make it a lot easier to deploy the blade one handed.
Dude….. it’s a standard utility box opener….. buy one for 5 bucks or get them for free by working for a company that forces you to not have a real knife
Literally lol a Milwaukee fast back is like 12 bucks and it’s the exact same thing. You can also get them in so many configurations. My favorite is the one with the screw driver on it.
I get it, premium tools aren’t for everyone. If you think “a knife is a knife” then you clearly aren’t going to appreciate the difference. When you use a tool day in day out, it makes a huge difference. It’s like comparing a Bentley to a ford focus. Yeh they are both cars! But one is significantly better than the other! They both do the same things but one does it better!
Love this song. Been on my regular playlist for a bit now. Also I don't know how people can sheet with an impact. I over drive every screw without my drywall gun...
Small plastic pieces used to pack out gaps. You would typically use these if you were installing windows or door casings. However they come in very handy for a lot of different applications 🤙🏻
You’d be surprised how solid it actually feels! It’s a fully designed system we are using in accordance with building control specs. I’m fairly impressed with it to be honest 👌🏻
It’s not designed to have any thermal benefits but I think, by the nature of how it works I’m must do 🤷♂️😂 if I remember I’ll put the product details in a comment 🤙🏻
Floating floor, but not for sheets. 2, 4 and 6ft level. Tracks, folding sqaure etc. I baten it all out with stops, so they slide in perfectly. Then do a draw on the side door section for bits and bobs you use all the time etc.
@@Redbeardcarpentryco I have a midnight black 16oz head and a military green handle 16". I pre-ordered in Nov last year. I've been naughty though and just purchased the newly released red handle as all mry gear is Milwaukee 😅
1- congrats on the new van. 2- anything fairly heavy that wont be used "all the time", i would suggest putting right on top of the wheel wells. Steady amount of weight, low center of gravity, good for the winter months with handling in the snow, even when the most used stuff is on the job... 3- a stack of "brief case" style organizer bins floor to cieling. Heavier at the bottom, lighter at the top. Framing nails, all the way up to tile spacers, and wire nuts.... easy reach from the door. Grab a case, get what you need and put the case right back. Youll go in and out for the little things the most....
Iv had floating floors before and honestly, I’m not a fan. I always leave stuff under there and get sooo frustrated when I come to put sheets in! 🤣 thanks for the suggestion though dude 👊🏻🧡
I did exactly this some years ago. My friend had a thatched cottage and wanted a shower and wc in the guest bedroom. So pile of 2x4 and... where to start. The floor was several inches out of level, as was the ceiling, The walls had the same problem and to cap it all the corner wasn't square. I remember it took me half an hour to decide where to start!
Was looking into those hammers. They make cordura in a turquoise... was thinking about grabbing up the same head as yours. They use the same name as the buckle company I use.. raptor. Could be a cool combo. How's it doing after a little time with it? I imagine you have the heavier one on the longer handle in blue?
They are actually both the same weight, the longer handle is just better for framing/first fix work. They are both 16oz hammers. I REALLY like them! The shorter one is perfect for second fix/finishing work, so I now have one for every occasion 🤣 That does sound like a good combo! I’d be very interested in seeing that. 🤙🏻
The pay can be good, you just have to find the right job and be patient. Unfortunately as with all trades there is a lot to learn and a long apprenticeship. If it really is your dream job, you should go for it! You could be earning really good money within a few years 🤷♂️