Follow my guitar pedal and audio related projects and learn how to build some things along the way. Also stay tuned for video demonstrations of my own builds. For more content follow me on facebook.com/davespedalsandprojects
I followed the steps in your video to build an astable multivibrator circuit for a blinking LED, and it works as intended. However, I've encountered an unwanted noise in the circuit. Could you please help me figure out how to resolve this issue?
hey i was lookinng at the schematic and everything and waas looking at some layouts where the mod is already present in the circuit, and I was thinking of using a 10k pot and removing the resistors on board and keeping the switch.. your mod however is more practical and doesnt require drilling a hole anywhere. but I just wanna know why you chose a 50k pot. is it to ensure that you cut the signal entirely without having to do math and/or does the value effect the sweep? did you use and logarithmic or linear? Does that also effect the sweep... I would think linear would give a fuller sweep right?
Thanks, Dave! Do you have a recommendation for where/from whom to buy a potentiometer? Would like to try it. Getting into modding pedals, and also repairing/modding old stereo gear, and this would be a good, easy practice project.
I tried it once and swiched back to the original. Why? Because the Small Clone's depth circuit was designed to work specially in an open state to achieve a full chorus effect, considering the closed state (shallow depth) as a bonus. A maxed potentiometer is not the same as an open switch, as it grounds a little the signal and ends up reducing the depth amplitude. The result is a reduced sweep that affects the Small Clone's characteristic woosh and/or shimmer for the worst, due to the reduced depth range.
I tried it once and swiched back to the original. Why? Because the Small Clone's depth circuit was designed to work specially in an open state to achieve a full chorus effect, considering the closed state (shallow depth) as a bonus. A maxed potentiometer is not the same as an open switch, as it grounds a little the signal and ends up reducing the depth amplitude until it is removed. The result is a reduced sweep that affects the Small Clone's characteristic woosh and/or shimmer for the worst, due to the reduced depth range.
@@KAISERSIGMAX3 this is an interesting point. could that be fixed by adding another switch that would bypass the added pontentiometer and return it to an open state again? essentially turning the pontentiometer on and off? then maybe you get the best of both
I actually managed to build a tremolo pedal out of this a year ago and now I'm finally ready to solder all on a circuit board.Thanks so much for all the help! 😀
Hey dave! cheers for the demo. I just finished building myself one of these and i have a slight issue which i hope you could help with. The bypass signal is actually louder than the echo matic ! when i turn it on there is a noticeable drop in volume.. I'm using a new 9v battery and can't seem to figure out what is going on. Also what should the output voltage be? Thanks!
Hi Dave. I’m going to try to do this mod. Will an alpha 16mm 50k linear work? Will it fit through the slot that the depth toggle switch was removed from? Thanks.
Built this and it works really well. Great job! I Put 3x 3.3M resistors in series on both sides to slow it down further. Any way of getting an even slower flash or should I just keep increasing the resistance?
You can keep upping the resistance but eventually it will stop flashing. You can also try different transistors. There are a lot of variations of this circuit online if you google "flashing led transistor circuit" and click the images tab
Hmm sounds like something is not making connection or the potentiometer could be bad. With no connection it will be at full chorus. It should have less chorus as you turn the potentiometer to less resistance
to me removing the switch would make the depth mod always on... I would be interested in being able to keep the switch but turn the pot to adjust the depth.. however... according to the video when the pot is all the way off, then the depth switch should theoretically be "off". so it then would depend on the quality of the pot you use, cuz if your pot for watever reason doesnt fully cut of" the signal... then the depth switch is always gunna be "on".
Sorry I dont have the pedal anymore. I should have tested it on video but I was trying to keep the video short. The only thing it changes is that you get control over the range between the high and low on the depth switch. If I ever get another one of these to mod I'll make a video of the final result.
@@davespedalsandprojects3516 man, i tried it but i fucked it up now i cant even get any sound out of the pedal... I bought a new (used) one and I'm wondering, if I send you the pedal over the mail can you do that for me? I can paypal whatever you wanna take for the mod? As well as maybe fix my broken one so I can at least get my money back if i sell it. That would be really cool...
Guy Smiley everything I know about this pedal came from the website I have linked in the description of this video. On the website there are two links to 2 pages of info on the echomatic including the parts list and schematic.
The only thing I did differently is I did not use a printed circuit board. I hand wired it with perf board. Also I put a 10uf capacitor from the + to the - on the "out to tape in" jack to stop a squeeling that was happening when i turned up the volume on the tape recorder. That part is not on the schematic but its a simple add-on that completely stopped the squeeling.
Awesome! Thanks for the info, I am getting the parts right now on mouser. Is this good for the Op amp? There are a few variations. www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MC33174DTvirtualkeyMC33174DTvirtualkey511-MC33174DT ?
Guy Smiley that should work. The pinout is exactly the same as the mc33174n that I used. Make sure to look up the pinout and either draw it or print it out so that you can use it for reference when you are following the schematic. The points labeled A on the schematic all connect together. Same with the points labeled B. Sorry to be long winded just trying to give as much helpful info as i can.
