Make sure the jump starter is actually outputting 12v. They have safety features that will prevent them from turning on unless you over ride it If that doesn't work then it seems like you have to pull the release thru the ski opening or remove the rear seats
@@lorenzopatol360theres a bolt where some live cables are bolted to near the jump point try powering one of those (the little cable powered up dash and that gave enough to do the boot)
Thank you for uploading this detailed video. Your video helped me diagnose my high-pressure fuel pump was bad. Saved me hundreds of dollars that I would have paid a dealership.
I was shocked that only the Nissan dealership had this lower control arm, everywhere else I looked no one had it. They are priced very cheaply though so that was a bonus The lateral arms you can get thru Nissan but I found them for 1/3 the price from O'Reilly's.
It still may offer some improvement in ride quality but you won't gain graduations from changing fluid. You will want to change the 4 globes at some point to bring back the full suspension range of absorption / quality.
not gonna lie I just replaced mine 2 days ago and used gasket sealant to hold it in place didn't fall out of the VC at all I also saw another vid where a guy used small drops of super glue
Great video with lots of information! I have a 2010 40 hp mercury bigfoot. Why would fuel be coming out of the hose you said was just for air to escape. The hose on top right beside the low pressure fuel line going into the high pressure fuel pump?
This would mean the float valve in the top of the VST tank that is supposed to shut off the low pressure fuel supply is not working correctly. Either it is sticking open or the float is full of fuel
i have a 2018 230i which is essentially the same car as yours, battery's negative terminal is disconnected. tried both the jump box and jumper cable connected to another running car. neither way worked. any idea why?
Does the fuel make noise when the key is on? I have one and hear no noise with the key on and I can prime fuel system and get it to run for a few seconds then have to deprive it, just wondering if the fuel pump is bad
Very good. I ordered a fuel pressure testing set. I been fighting this battle for a while. My priming ball went flat on me yesterday. I'm going to try an external tank.
I have 2006 LX470 (220,000 miles) and I am currently having a AHC issue. Its blinking "off" and stuck in L and will not move to N or H. If I turn the "off" light off and attempt to go into N, the vehicle will start the process (the N light begins to blink) but within 10 seconds or so I hear a slight 1-2 second squeal and the off light pops back on and the AHC system is thereafter unresponsive. Reservoir looks full but then the vehicle is in L. Driving the vehicle in L mode is super bumpy. So I am guessing merely flushing and replacing the fluid would not solve this?
It's possible it may help. Scanning with the Toyota software may shed more light on the situation. It sounds like either the pump isn't building pressure, or it's pumping and hitting a high pressure limit ( due to an internal blockage of some kind ) and the system is cutting off. Do you feel or hear the pump working at all?
Thanks. Not sure if pump is kicking on or not. On start up it's in L, about 10 seconds later there is a short 1 second squeak under the vehicle and immediately the off light begins blinking. I dont feel or see any upward movement but something is trying to engage with the squeak.
Thanks! That is a great explanation. I've been battling gremlins in my 60HP 4-stroke Merc for a couple years now. Pretty sure it is due to low fuel pressure.
www.blenddoorusa.com/ I mention it in the video, I thought I put their information in the description but I guess I forgot to add it. It is a super high quality piece and worth the price they charge for it.
QUESTION: am in the process of doing this repair and have hit a snag. The shaft on the actuator motor won’t align with any position that I can adjust the newly installed blend door. It's just slightly off but enough where I can’t even re-bolt the piece on. I’m thinking I can reset with a 9V battery, but can’t find the pin assignment to test. (GM Part # 92215208/ACDelco Part # 15-74128) Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you for your videos!
I had the same issue, what you need to do is plug everything in and turn the car on you don't have to start it but just turn the car on and then turn the temperature setting somewhere between hot and cold and it will move the actuator in the position where you can install it. When it's full hot or full cold the blend door won't line up with the actuator.
Be sure to turn the jump box into the "forced on" mode and not the "smart" jump start mode as this will not work. The smart circuit will prevent the jump box from working.
You are correct. Some mechanics dont know to give him the benefit of the doubt, others will say whatever to be able to bill their clients whatever they want
I noticed one of your terminals is still connected to the battery. It seems this only works if the battery is still connected. My battery has been completely removed, and the jump box doesn’t work. It’s because of the gap between the terminals in the back.
Be sure your jump pack is on. Some of them are "smart" and won't deliver power out of the terminals. I assure you the vehicle will work. In the video.you see me turn on the jump pack and then press and hold the the red button to force it on.
What would cause my engine to need to be primed to keep running? Idles okay but giving it any throttle i need to keep priming the bulb. Im assuming it isn't the high pressure fuel pump because it can run at WOT as long as im priming the bulb. Once i stop it starts to starve itself from fuel. Low pressure fuel pump you figure?
I would say lofp. You can do the tests in the video. If you see the fuel pressure gauge bouncing that is a sure sign of the lpfp being bad. A healthy lpfp has very stable fuel pressure, it's not something I videoed but found out after replacing it. Other things could be a leak where it is sucking air. As it's pulling the fuel.
I have a bizarre question for you, but that motor appears to be on a fiberglass boat of some kind. I was curious what kind of speed you’re getting out of that boat I have a 60 hp on a 16’5 aluminum boat that weighs about 900 pounds and I’m only reaching a top speed of 29 mph and is a dog out of the hole ,so I’m assuming the motor is not performing correctly. I have replaced the entire fuel system on the motor except for the injectors so I’m just curious if I’m chasing a higher performance that may not be there. Hope that makes sense.
It's not my boat and I haven't personally been out on it so I cant really about performance, but I did ask the owner and he said top speed is about 30 mph. It's a 2017 Mako Pro Skiff 17', online says 950 lbs.
Very helpful, i have a question, you did it one by one so did you let each one drain completely then moved onto the next or did you release the bolt to allow the fluids to drain and then left the bottle to collect the fluid and moved onto the next globe?
I did each one at a time; I cracked the bleeder and collected the fluid out of the globe, closed it and went to the next. Each globe has pressure in it, they drain quickly
My low pressure filter, the bowl, keeps going dry after it’s running. It doesn’t seem to be affecting it doesn’t do that on my other outboard. Gaskets look fine, threads are fine. Not sure why it’s doing that, is it sucking air somewhere maybe?
It could be, check for leaks on the filter bowl gasket, and try to eliminate variables. Do what you can to eliminate chunks of the system to narrow where the problem might be. Have the suction side pickup fuel from a separate container with different ( temporary line) fuel line. If it stops make sure the pickup in the tank is fully covered and there's no splits leaking air on the pickup or at any fittings. If there's no change you can test the lp fuel pump suction and make sure the needle is smooth on the vacuum guage. and not fluctuating rapidly.
Low pressure pump or high pressure pump ? Are you testing pressure from the Schrader valve on the VST tank? Assuming you put in a new high pressure pump and you're reading 35 psi from the Schrader valve it's possible the pressure regulator is stuck open or partially open. After you shut off the engine does the pressure bleed down? It should hold for a while. I would consider pulling apart the VST tank and in the top lid is the pressure regulator & there are a few screens (one behind the regulator too). I would clean everything and make sure nothing is blocked. Replace the regulator if pressure is low and everything is clean.
@lillyautomotive My pressure tester was faulty! Also, it was never my fuel pump. I spent $600 for nothing. It ended up being my fuel line. The lining inside was all bunched up. 😩
Ah bummer that sucks! The lining inside the fuel line is why I was saying not to pinch it when testing and to pinch the line you were using to tee in the gauge, I know I wasn't super clear with that aspect but anyway atleast you found your problem.
@lillyautomotive Hi there, my car driver side high beam sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. It may work after a few tries, my car failed the test because of this, I changed the bulb and still the same. The low beam is working fine. what do you recommend about this?? Do you have any idea please?
I would look at the ballast, make sure there's no water in it & swap ballast from the other side and see if the light works. If there's water in the ballast you can submerge it and wash it in IPA (iso-propel alcohol 91%) if you have it available and let the unit dry (for a few hours at least) and see if it functions. Otherwise might be a wiring issue
@lillyautomotive I checked the ballast, the motor, the flapper, and the wires. Everything is good. The high beam is still not working properly, I'm so confused. what else do you think? Does FRM coding have anything to do with that?
Ah ok I misread your post in the beginning. It seems as though the solenoid that activates to move the shield is not working. I would check to see if you hear it clicking (if it is) then check the linkages, if it's not then check the wiring. You may want to get a pin out / wiring diagram and make sure the high beam signal is getting to the headlight. If it is then you'll probably want to bake the headlight apart and check all the wiring inside of it
Yeah I would agree the part could be made better and the electronic controls could be better as well. The blend door motor puts a ton of torque on the blend door at each end of the stroke before it shuts off. I would highly recommend the aluminum blend door replacement so you dont have the same failure in the future.
Blend door usa sells them, and you use a scanner to relearn on the blend door full open and full close. It will reduce the stress the motor puts on the door, but if you don't have a scanner it will still work without doing a relearn.
If you do the replacement before you start put the cool heat knob in the middle. If you put it full one or the other you won't be able to get the motor to index into the door. It's hard to explain but you will understand when you have it apart.
Greetings my dear friend.. There is a 50 hp thatsu engine. 3 injectors are intact, the brain is intact, the fuel pump is working... but I think there is no fuel reaching the pistons. It works when I spray brake lining spray inside. I am a mechanical technician myself. Apart from the 3 injectors of the engine, there are also injectors inside the compartment called the log, I think they adjust the air and gasoline mixture. Could it be one of these? What is your advice? I wish you a good day... From Tuzla, Istanbul Greetings... Gasoline reaches the injectors. In addition to the fuel pump, there is also a pressure box that pushes the fuel forward.
If the engine is running on brake cleaner, then the issue is fuel related. The injectors may not be operating, the could be clogged and spraying poorly, circuit failure, or proper fuel pressure may not be making it to them / clogged fuel filter, or screens located prior to the fuel pump. I am not 100% familiar with the engine you are asking about but I would start there.
Thanks so much for this video!!! Your explanation confirmed my thoughts about how the system was laid out, and you supplied some much needed information for my testing. I wasgoing to replace my fuel pressure regulator while working on my VST, but that little part costs over $230, so i will be testing ig instead, first! Thanks again👍👍
Well it can mean one of a few things but the nitrogen charge on the suspenion globes are flat. Either one or two have popped or all four have slowly lost their nitrogen and no longer meet their minimum specification & globe replacement is necessary.