Does your saw drop oil when idling and revving up without cutting? Mine does. It seems like it’s over oiling, and I have it turned all the way down: The saw is brand new.
@@WniGrup I put the captive nuts on mine, about $12 for the springs. The handlebar is pricey though about $100…I’d rather put that toward the A2designs new airfilter kit, check that out if you haven’t 😉👍
@@jimssawsnstuff8903 I will, could def. use a better filter, thanks. Edit: Looks like he's in production, however, I’m torn between the solid or vented wedge.
@@jimssawsnstuff8903 Nice, I got a proline solo wireless tach (highly recommend) , and with the minor mods and the high speed screw out 3-5/8 I am at 13000 rpm, short burst. Need to tune in wood. You wouldn’t know if there are aftermarket screws that are a bit longer with the limiter caps gone?
Appreciate you doing these tests on the 462 with the 32 inch Bar. I see this alot. I have a 462 with a 25 inch Bar was wanting to get a 28 or 32 inch. Was wondering about the Oiler.
@@Zebracat5 there is a roll pin on the oil pump that needs to be pushed in to give it full range…stock they only allow about 1/2 of it’s potential flow…applies to 661, 461 as well…I’ve got a new 661 here, I’ll do a video on how to increase the oil flow. Depending on what age your 462 is, there seems to be a bit of variation in design and port timing. The original model has a different crankcase than the newer ones..it seems a bit more limited in its stock power…the middle version has the newer crankcase which allows better flow of the air/fuel mixture out of the bottom- front of the crankcase to the transfer ports, has a bit too much squish , so a good candidate for decking the cylinder base and some port work/port timing adjustments…the newest one I worked on has an optimum squish and port timing was good, so possibly a muffler mod or aftermarket muffler would be the most cost effective investment in it….I’m not a fan of the computer/ saws because they don’t normally produce the torque because the computer runs too lean…except the 661’s, I love how they respond to what I do to them.
@Johnstanton533 that’s one to hold onto then! I have worked on a 362 that was a manual carb and it was decent compared to the m-tronic…I ran both for a year with the tree company I worked for at the time.
If you want the flip up caps, the PROPER ones, they are STANDARD here is europe.. The oil cap is part number; P100-008410 and the fuel cap number is; P100-008550 Hope this helps..
Thanks, the Echo oil cap alone here in Canada is $20.50, that’s more than I pay for both the Husky caps. Do you know if you guys get the Echo 7310 with heated handle as an option? That’s another feature they didn’t make available here, so far looks like just in the JDM (Japanese Domestic Market)
@@jimssawsnstuff8903 Just looked in the echo catalogue and we do NOT have the heated handles here. We DO have the CS4310SX though which is a brand new model, just like a mini 7310 and i "think" it is a europe and Japan only model?? I wonder how the echo branded sugihara pro solid prices compare with the bar price from Sugihara?? I bought a 20" echo/sugihara bar and from memory it would be the equivalent of about $173 Canadian dollars.. The saw came with a 28" bar installed.. Echo are gaining ground here. The dealer i get stuff from says that he sells about 7 or 8 Stihls or Husqvarnas for every echo, but that he has never ever had an echo come back with problems.
@caerleon87 thanks for checking. Yeh, I switched over to Echo after all the issues I ran into with the Husky 562XP’s, plus I’d had several other Husky 545/550, 555’s and now 565’s with crank bearing and seal issues…I’m not a fan of the nylon caged bearings, Stihl also went to them, but so far I haven’t seen them die due to a bearing failure…the computer carbs and the strato-injection in conjunction with the reduced cooling fin area in the newer Stihls and Huskies makes them run hot..and guys running chains too tight, or rakers (depth gauges) filed too low also puts a lot of extra strain on the bearings…and they don’t handle heat or torque load. I’ve seen Charles Brisco’s vids on the 4310 and it definitely turns into a Gremlin (I think it’s too small to call it a monster…but then again…the 2511T’s that I port get called that too 😉). Here we got a 4510 and a 4920 that are both strato-port saws and a lot more plastic/clamshell so definitely not going to win with that…must be emissions related although I thought Europe was more strict on emissions that us. Anyhow…I bought the A2designs air box mod kit for my 501p/4910 and it’s great…uses the round cartridge style filter, similar to the 7310… Bars, well personally I’ve had great luck with the Oregon Versacut in 24” and the Speedcut in 18” and 20” they are an aluminum core, the 24” is the same weight as the Stihl Light bar and half the price…so it’s the best option IMHO, non-replaceable tip, but here none of these arborists replace tips, they normally have other issues before that..and it’s only $40 more for a new bar vs cost of the tip and then there’s labour on top to swap the tip out…here the shops are $120/hr…I’m about 1/3 that but it’s still a cost. I did buy the Sugi with the Husqvarna light/tough paint, but it’s still a very heavy bar compared to the Stihl light bar and Oregon Versacut… What part of Europe are you in? Thanks for the chat, take care.
@@jimssawsnstuff8903 I am in the UK We have the 4510 here too, It will be a nice saw, but not so "upmarket" as the 4310SX All the echo "pro" saws here have the "SX" suffix the same as you have the "P" ones there. The 4310 has the same sort of filter arrangement as the 7310. They advertise it here as a sort of little brother to the 7310. The pro solid bars are very nice, but VERY heavy so i have wondered what the saw would be like with a lightweight bar. I do not do much cutting so the standard bar will outlast me!
Where can I get one of these my friend? I saw Boedy showcasing them a few weeks back and I just happened to get a 4910 today so let’s go! 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼 PS. Neighbors that leave their barking ass dogs outside to do sh|t like that are in need of a neighborly discussion on how to be a good neighbor.
Haha, yeh, I got into a texting discussion with a customer the other night who insisted he runs Stihl oil at 100:1 and that it recommends it on the bottle..I was trying to have my supper and spent a fair bit of effort encouraging him to try the complimentary bottle of Red Armour oil I’d given him with a saw and to run it at 40:1… I ended up saying the same thing in the end…you do you…then he must have thought about it a bit and came back with some questions and decided to try it…😉
@@crazyfeller5704 yeh, he realized it didn’t matter to me if he wrecks his stuff, then he also realized I was trying to help him make his saws last and save money in the long run. He thanked me in the end 😉
Yeah the whole too tight chain deal - I don't get it? When you post a pic with a chain set up the way it should be run it never fails that you get the dumbass comments "tighten your chain up or else you'll blah blah blah". hahahaha
Definitely not my favourite 🙄. They were Stihls first attempt at a strato-port m-tronic, basically look like they German engineered the Husky X-torq and over complicated it 🤔🙄
Probably best to google the manufacturer specs, that’s as much as I used it, That was a couple years ago now. What I can tell you is Exho are normally quieter than a lot of the other brands
Very minimal retuning, it may need to have the L screw turned out about 1/8 of a turn, depending if your saw is running a bit rich if set for a break in then it’s probably pretty good. If in doubt get it tuned with a tachometer
Did that to one of my saws a year ago. I could push the crank left-right for almost 1mm, so I applied the compound on both bearings. It's still holding, no left-right movement.
Good talk. I was thinking about the same thing today. Just picked up two walbro filters at $10.00 each. Came home and ordered 10 for $16.00 on Amazon. Will check out the Amazon tomorrow and see if I need to return them. Maybe not. Maybe better to replace them more often.
I’ve found them to be very resilient. Lately I’ve been applying an automotive clear coat over the plastic cover and vent after I install them ( I cover the center screen part with the wax paper that the frogzskin comes with, in order to protect the vent from getting sealed up 😉
Where are you getting these? I'd like to have one, but the Canadian pricing I'm seeing is tough to swallow... over $1700 and they dont seem to ever go on much of a sale. Husqvarna periodically has some pretty aggressive sales in my area, could probably get two 562's for that price... not saying the Echo isnt better, but damn, thats pretty spendy.
Yeh, for some reason Echo in Western Canada has continued to jack prices on them. It seems short sighted when they aren’t reflected in the marketplace to that level. I know back east they are considerably cheaper. However: 15% discounts on “Dealer Days” so look for that with any dealers in your area…that’s as good or better than any Husky sales/discounts or rebates…search thru the list…www.echo.ca/promotions/one-day-sale The Husky 562 isn’t worth $100 imho after all the issues I’ve encountered with them. If you’re in Alberta or out west, shoot me a pm I’m on facebook Jimssawsnstuff and have a couple sitting here ready to go 😉
@@jimssawsnstuff8903 Darn, I would have been interested a week ago but I just picked up a real clean 365 Special. So now I've got 3 "big saws" and a couple smaller ones kicking around. Not sure if I'll mod the Special or not.
@@jimssawsnstuff8903 A few years back we used about a paint can full of that stuff on an industrial log chipper with something like a 12" shaft. Kept it going for well over a month like that IIRC.
That block is all cut up, I flipped it over to try to get a couple more cuts out of it, first cut was in a knot and cut out…last cut was the only decent cut…probably have to take the rakers down to actually make that saw grunt now 😜
Good info, Jim. I climbed and pieced out a 40' hickory tree in 2.5 hours last evening. I took advantage of the 74 degrees F. Monday, it will be 88 degrees F, yuck. I used my 2511T and my 620PW. I'll post some GoPro pics and videos on FB tomorrow.. it's hard to pass up some of these saws when you see them cheap.
@@diggindiggenit6540 I found stainless really enjoyable to work with, unlike Aluminum…keep your stuff clean, brush it off and wipe it down with acetone or brake clean and you’re good to go. Be careful cutting stainless with zip discs etc as the buckle in stainless is really bad for your lungs..
@@jimssawsnstuff8903 yeah thanks for the tips i bought a lincoln precision tig 275 not knowing i didn't have enough electricity to run it per manual But with small stuff that's thin i might be okay, i have yet to even try it lol
@@diggindiggenit6540 right on, I bought a Tig from Amazon, have to be careful with chinesium…but it’s been ok so far with steel. For aluminum it would be best to have a foot pedal. Lots of good stuff on RU-vid to help with the basics if you need some help. I found a couple good ones, I’ll add links once I find them again.
