1: Make sure it is on WiFi so it downloads the current firmware 2: Navigate to configurable I/O and set up UI01 for modulating heat 3: Wire 24VAC R and C from thermostat (or from transformer) to actuator, and UI01 to actuator 0-10 input (no need to wire UI02 Com as I assume you are using one transformer for both thermostat and actuator and everything is half wave rectified) For more details or if I misunderstood you, please call our hotline at 888-516-9347 or buildingsproductsupport@honeywell.com
These are horrible. The backplane is damaged instantly if you accidentally short the 24v. The slightest mistake and the backplane is dead and cannot work. 2 of these were damaged instantly, its insane. I have never had a system so dang touchy. I now have to get replacements and very angry about it.
I am sorry you have had trouble with the wall plates. We did redesign them to be more robust this summer. If you still need some replacements please email your address to buildingsproductsupport@honeywell.com, please mention my name so it will be routed to me.
@@davidarneson6749 David. Wow, I did not expect a response. This is great that you responded. I have three that completely failed as I purchased 5 units. The two that are working scare me that if I relocate them, they too may fail. I am very excited about the connectivity to my BACnet system and have them trending and these are very useful with extra AI for alternate inputs. Love the screen and interface and all around an impressive device. Was literally shocked when the backplanes just gave out. I will send you information, and thank you.
Thanks. Yes there is a method to do this. Please call our hotline at 888-793-8188 or email buildingsproductsupport@honeywell.com and ask for the TC500A-N installer passcode reset tech tip.
I've seen different placements of the mixed air sensor in different Jade video's. This one is showing it after the return air/economizer air before the a/c coils. Other videos show it being installed after the coils, right next to the blower. How do we know which is correct? Obviously one is going to see the temperature drop when the mechanical a/c is running, whereas the other will not.
Great question Jason. It is best to put the mixed air sensor in the mixed air, before the coil if you can. Sometimes, however, this is difficult to do. If so, then you can put it after the coil. Jade automatically senses that the mixed air sensor is upstream or downstream from the coil. When it knows that the sensor is downstream from the coil, Jade will use the MA sensor for mixed air sensed temperature (located after the coil) when the cooling is not on. But when the cooling IS on, it will use the temp from the outdoor air sensor as the mixed air temperature when the compressor is running. This works fine, as the return air damper is closed when mechanical cooling is on.(I copied the following from a white paper that goes over this, and it refers to the mixed air sensor as the control sensor as it could be placed before or after the coil) (This feature was added years ago with firmware version 1.13) When the control sensor is placed in the DA, the Jade will maintain the temperature to the MA set point (input by the installing technician or default of 53F) +/- 1F. When a second stage of cooling (Y2 IN) is called for then the Jade will open the OA to 100% open and close the RA damper 100% closed then turn on stage 1 (Y1 out) of mechanical cooling. If the system is using 2-speed fan the function 2SP FAN DELAY (adjustable 0 to 20 minutes default 5 minutes) will delay turning on Y1 out for the duration of the 2 speed fan delay. CAUTION: Jade will use the temperature of the outside air to control and report the control sensor (MA on LCD) temperature and control the OA and RA dampers. In this case the OA damper is fully open while RA damper is fully closed so the temperature in the MA box is very close to the OA temperature. If the thermostat call is not satisfied with the OA dampers wide open and the first stage of mechanical cooling is running, then Jade will turn on the second stage of mechanical cooling (Y2 OUT) after the STG3 DLY (stage 3 delay) time has expired ( 0 min, 5 min, 15 min, then 15 min intervals, default is 2 hours). If the DA temperature goes out of the range (set point +/- 1F) then the OA and RA dampers will modulate to maintain to 30Fto 40F below the below the OA temperature. In this case the Low Temperature Lock out needs to be set to a temperature where the (OA temperature - 30F to 40F) will not allow the coil to freeze. The changeover temperature and/or enthalpy boundaries must be taken into consideration. Example 1: Using the ES3 boundary unit will economize below 70F and 42.3 RH. If the OA temperature is 50F the unit will economize on a call for cooling (Y1 IN). If there is a call for additional cooling in space then on Y2 IN the Jade will open the OA dampers and the DA temperature should be approximately 50F. This temperature should be low enough to cool the space and the thermostat should be satisfied. Example 2: Using the ES3 boundary unit will economize below 70F and 42.3 RH. If the OA temperature is 70F and RH is below 42.3 RH the unit will economize on call for Y1 IN. If there is a call for additional cooling in the space then on Y2 IN the Jade will open the OA dampers and the DA temperature should be approximately 70F. If this does not satisfy the call for cooling then the Y1 OUT will turn on the mechanical cooling. To avoid freezing the coil the LOW Temperature Lockout should be set to a temperature where the OA temperature minus coils temperature drop will lock out the mechanical cooling from turning on (Y1 OUT).
Know how to reset the passcode? If you don't know the passcode you can't reset to default. I want to reset to default because I don't know the passcode.
Thanks. Most people use the 1st method as it is quicker and easier and it is the one that is usually taught in schools. I think method 2 is slightly more accurate as it calibrates to the spring. As you can imagine, the spring tension varies as it stretches and contracts, so it may be better to calibrate to that. However with method 2 you need to know the spring range and it may be in the ceiling, under a cover etc. and hard to see. Method 2 could also mess up sequencing if the stat is controlling two different spring range devices like a heating valve and a cooling valve. So it is up to you, but most people just use method 1. Maybe a real expert will read this and have a better answer!
@@davidarneson6749 thanks for your reply, any tips regarding program it to jace The only issue it's writing logic such Control occupied /unoccupied, schedule ,alarm, heat and cool set point etc ,, as T -stat had 545 objects to BacNet ,
@@skyheatingair Sure, I can send you some documents. Please email SMBProductSupport1@honeywell.com and mention my name. Also let me know if you are using Niagara.
While running the VFD it themselves automatically stop, after resetting(off and again on) it starting running. What is the problem how to troubleshoot the VFD?
I'd start by checking if it has a fault or error code. This article is good. Also contact support from the manufacturer. www.ecmweb.com/content/article/20894292/troubleshooting-vfd-problems
This video has inaccuracies in it. Increased velocity will always give you more turbulent flow. That's fluid mechanics 101. You actually can rate a design based on the Re# you want to achieve. Alex Bashqawi explains the phenomenon correctly. Please check your fundamentals before posting a video.
Hi Sir, Do you have a Honeywell Actuator valve? Model: ML7421B1023E if you have or know where can i buy it, please email me thru this. jhuneadorna.eisi@gmail.com
No, a C7232 or C7632 Co2 sensor with a 2-10Vdc output signal can be wired to the IAQ 2-10 terminals, or a TR40 Co2 sensor can be used, which communicates over the Sylk bus on the S-Bus terminals.
@@omardiaz7237 Hi Omar. You need to power the C7232, but you also need the analog output going to the economizer. So you will use red and black for power going to IAQ24V and IAQCOM on the W7220 economizer. Then yellow (OUT1) goes to IAQ 2-10 on the economizer.
Natural or LP gas valves often use solenoid valves, like the V4046 or V4295, and some humidifiers use them to allow water to flow into the humidifier, like the 32001639-002. However we do not have solenoid valves for HVAC on/off water control. (at least not that I am aware of in North America)
When it's 70*f outdoors and 40% RH, and the old time "B" setting is on, as in the example, it does not seem like there would be enough cooling. That's probably why they were always set to "D" or disconnected completely. A lot of energy was wasted over the years because of such a ridiculous poor Honeywell interface. I am glad to see these new controls, though it took California to force it.
Thanks Kevin. Yes many analog economizers were disconnected. Too often this was done when the outdoor air damper was stuck open. Jade is much easier to use....and can alert you when there is a problem like that. In regards to 70F and 40% RH... this really is up to individual preference. The dew-point with those numbers is about 45F... Economizing at that point is fine for some people. However, someone from a dry environment like the SW might find that uncomfortable. That, of course, is why there are different curves to choose from.
Hello. Plug valves are a category of valve that can be confusing. They are often used to control the flow for HVAC systems as on/off valves. The Honeywell V8043 or VC valve are like these. The plug is on an arm that rotates and moves a ball (plug) to block flow, or to allow it. A globe valve also has a plug in it that is moved up or down to block flow...but I call those globe valves, not plug valves. A check valve does work like a plug valve in that it has a round ball that can allow flow in one direction, and if the flow reverse, close off the flow (not always a ball, a check valve may have a diaphragm, disk, other means of stopping flow). The principal difference is that the plug valve is a control valve... actuated by a motor of some kind. It allows flow in one direction or stops it. The check valve is more passive, allowing flow in one direction, or moving when the water flow direction is reversed to prevent back-flow. Does that help?
Hello Carlos. Please send an email to ecccustomercare@honeywell.com, so we can discuss this. Include a part number such as vgf31em30 and my name in the email so it gets routed to me.
Excellent! I completely agree with Adrienne that starting at the beginning is the only way to really help folks understand economizers - thanks so much for working this!
