So updating you on the progress and fault finding in the Samsung (PS50Q97HD) Plasma Tv. I have now sourced another PWR supply. This is a (exact replacement) to the original. This apparently will work on both 42” and 50” Connected it up and powered on. I observed 2 things. (1) it went straight into ( boot up cycle) with the relays clicking repeatedly. (2) when pressing the (on/off) button,a loud bang was heard from the rear!!! I unplugged and inspected the board for blown transistors or capacitors,visually all transistors and capacitors looked ok,with no signs of damage. I then removed the board and noticed burn marks around the solder of (1) of the transistors. Now this was in the exact area you mentioned bin the video (2) you advised to re-solder ,as can be problematic. I will re-flow all of the transistors and other high current devices in this board as to increase reliability. Can you tell me,if the (solder) joints on that transistor is iffy ,when current is drawn it’s probably likely to rupture the joint??? (OR) is this a pointer to a (dead short) elsewhere??? So when I test after re-flowing,if there is a problem say on the (E) and (F) buffer boards at bottom of set (would this) cause those transistors to go bang!!! I’m hoping it’s just,as you mentioned bad joints that cause this. Can you recommend any advice and guidance. With thanks Jason
Mine has an issue where the sound gets distorted quite badly after about 10% volume. I've tested the driver on its own, and the driver isn't the cause. Any ideas?
Hello, i just had my switch jailbroken and the first technian messed it up, so I checked on another techinian, a certified technician this time. He said that my emmc chip is damage and it needs reballing and the emmc needs to be replace because it is stucked to Nintendo logo with or without sa sd card. Does reballing and replacing emmc will fix ny switch? Please help i dont know that to do anymore.
Hello,hoping you can steer me in the right direction. Have a nice “old school” Samsung plasma Tv. PS50Q97HD, similar to in this video. I’ve watched you’re video on the PS50Q97HD a few times and found it very useful , however this hasn’t resolved the issues. When you plug the Tv in and turn on,the twin relays click on the PWR Supply board, but No Picture,No sound and little indication that the Y main or X main are active. During troubleshooting this I’ve replaced the PWR Supply board and re- flowed all the high power transistors,connection sockets and large capacitors, I then replaced the Y main and associated Y main buffer boards (Hi) and (Lo) I then replaced the X main board and Audio Visual board. So all areas that could cause problems have been addressed. There is a small board (behind) the stand (sub assembly) called the “logic Board and a pair of “Buffer Boards marked (E) and (F) at a he bottom of the set just above the speakers ( these have not been replaced) When powered on there a two green leds lit on the small (logic board) and a single green led lit on the bottom of the X main board,but nothing on the Y main board. Would a fault on the (logic Board) which has ribbon cables going to Y main X main and (E) and (F) Buffer Boards cause issues. Or could the (E) and (F) Buffer boards cause issues. The Y main has two multi pin connectors that interface the Y buffer which has 8 gold cables that go to screen The X main has 3 brown cables that go to the screen. The (E) and (F) buffer boards have10-12 cables that go to the bottom of screen. All replaced boards have come from a working sets with damaged screens and have been tested. So I need to determine is the (logic Board) or (E) and (F) buffers ,or both are causing the functional problems,as all others have been addressed. Any advice or guidance would he greatly appreciated. With thanks jason
@@MrReeceyburger123 the panel blank and unlit. One of the boards (Y) or (X) has a solid green led lit,no blinking. The (Logic board) behind the stand (Sun Assembly) has two green leds lit,no blinking, when it was briefly working in the past I believe one of the green leds on the (Logic Board) flicked. The thing that is puzzling me is ? The original PWR Supply board was used in both PS42Q97HD and also the PS50Q97HD a tick was put on the relevant model designation on the board at the factory in that case (50) was ticked The replacement board has the only a (50) designation on the board and thus this is ticked at the factory. There are a few subtle differences. (1) it only has 1 what looks like a 4 pin rectangular audio chip on the heatsink,where as the old board had 2 2 there is also a 1transistor on this board where the other has 2 3 there appears to be only one ( looks like a capacitor) in a white rectangular case on this board,where the other has 2 The riveted holes on the pcb and holes in the heatsink are in exactly the same place on both boards but this (50) has those components absent. Could this be causing the issue, I could remove these from the old. Board and install them in the new board,( but wary) as to could this cause issues/shorts/ etc. The (Y) and (X) main when last tested seem to be missing the 207vac going to the white plugs with thick grey cables from the PWR Supply,yet going by the green led lit in one,it appears data is being fed down the white ribbon cable. So I’m in the situation where I’m trying to locate those 2 pesky bulbs on the Christmas Light set each year that have blown😂😂 and won’t work. The PWR supply definitely is working. The blue led under the (on/off) button responds to remote commands (as it blinks) the set turns back to (Standby)after 20 minutes inactivity. When turned on the two relays click on the PWR Supply board (Blue led) under the (on/off) button blinks 6 times then nothing. Hope that helps Jason
@@Jrer241067 you need the right power supply. Certain sub supplies can be different and vs va etc. See what the vsc voltage is running at and 15v on the Ysus first. And you need vs up and running for any image to be written. The set comes out of stand by and runs vs va with out the Ysus/xsus connected ?
@@MrReeceyburger123 thanks will check, and see if there is any PWR supplies exactly the same as old,as I was unsure due to the slight differences mentioned, small but could be the solution 👍👍
So progress on the Samsung(PS50Q97HD) is proving tricky!!!! The new PWR supply( identical) to the one fitted originally at the factory. I did the Precautionary re flowing of all joints capacitors,transistors ,voltage regulators ,small transistors NPN /PNP . Cleaned excess flux from board . Checked and inspected re-flowed join and components. Re-fitted board . I used a RCD extension to be safe. The set appeared to try to boot up (BUT) kept blowing (Plug fuses) I used 3Amp initially then 5Amp. Each time it blew these fuses, and on one occasion there was a loud bang and it (Tripped) my RCD to socket circuits in flat !! , I reset this and installed another 3Amp fuse ,it just took the fuse again!!! Do I then re-installed the other PWR Supply (50” only) designation ) on board. This blinked the ( blue led)under the(on/off) button 6 times. When I pressed the (on/off) button heard clicks from behind but nothing happening??? It appears there must be a (Dead Short ) somewhere on the 42”/50” board,which was the ( factory Fitted) type and this replacement was( exactly the same) As you mentioned,check the voltages on the board, however( it’s difficult) when it takes the fuse almost immediately,this is not easy. Any thoughts, bit puzzled. I’m thinking of getting a Engineer out to give me some advice.
Bro you saved me. Was having same issue with the boot loop but when I checked there was some dust on the ram socket so after I cleaned it the pc booted
Couldn't fix either. PSU still works so adding a Bluetooth amplifier with 2x 50W and 1x 100Sub amp. Will velcro it to the back and run from the original psu (at lower volumes). Cheap and fast. By the way. The diaphragms for the dome tweeters are available on ali ex
Great video thanks ! i have exactly the same capacitor bulged up 🤦♂ it's a 92µF 100V can i replace it by a 100µF 100V ?? or it must be the same value ??? Please help meee !! Thanks
Hi! I replaced all the capacitors in the power supply except the high voltage ones. When I turn it on, it starts up and plays music, but if I unplug it after 10-15 mins and plug to socket it back in, it starts slow flashing red for 30 minutes and then starts flashing quickly. If I unplug it from the socket at night, then in the morning it turns on as if nothing had happened until the next disconnection from the socket. Could these capacitors on main board be to blame for this behavior?
Hi! I'm trying to open the disc reader to service it but can't remove the front cover with the pcb and stuff. Could you make a vid on how to do that or perhaps guide me through it? Ik there's fins at the sides, top and bottom but the thing still doesn't seem to want to slide out
Thanks ,very much for your great information ,,🎉 Can u help me ,with my,Pdp-508xg.It just blinks ,red once ,relays ,not switching on ,can u plz advice ,,( Alex from Goa - india )🙏
I have the same sub. Mine only works if the volume and frequency dials are in certain positions. If you press/wiggle the dials the sounds gets interrupted. Any idea on what I can do to fix it?
thanks :) from 2024: this worked at my place too yesterday! not too important, it's a quite old non-led tv by now, but will use it a spare for testing PCs
Brother, what was the problem? The same capacitor you marked is swollen on me too. The TV turns on, it says Vestel, the screen goes dark. There is no energy going to the LEDs. What was the problem? Are you a writer? I use translation
I don't suppose you've had any experience troubleshooting the T-con board from this TV have you mate? I've got the 12V VIN, 3.3V, 1.8V, 1.2V...but no HAVDD and other missing voltages....Backlight is fine, just no display/menus etc...
Hey, great video. I have something similar, changed strips and the driver of the leds and still same thing, plug in the leds light up for a milisecond and goes off, but not off entirely, they are on low brightness possible, maybe ovp protection kicks in? I dont know what to test anymore, cant see any shorts. Have 123v on the leds connector, i think i need a lil more to get full brightness, 9leds *3v and 5strips gets 135v... Maybe not getting enough current? HELP...
I'm in the United States and I'm looking for the LED kit for an OLED55c6p. The TV was manufactured in 2017 are the LED strips for the LG's universally compatible?
If I have the metal casing propped open and a fan blowing right into the heat sink would that work I’ve seen noticeable improvement on heat coming out the system I have a cooling down and a fan blowing right into the fan the ps4 comes with and into the heat sink out the back of my slim
@mrreeceyburger123 im in south africa Capetwon, im not getting any sound from my SA-EH790, will the same IC Module you used work on my system before i buy it from Ebay ?
Hi , I have the same model Screen , its totally dead, with no light on the standby-led. I have checked the fuses and diodes one the powerboard. all seems OK. On the output-connector there is only about 8 volts on the ones marked 12 volts and nothing at all (0 Volts) one the standby voltage marked 3.5 / 5 Volts. Grateful for any tips 🙂
@@NNAAWWTT They were good but had some major limitations they ran into quickly. Pixel density was a big challenge once 4k sets started to come into play, and heat + power draw were incredibly high compared to LCD and later OLED counterparts. They fulfilled a similar niche in the market that OLED tvs do now, best for high-contrast content and for those who want high motion clarity
Hi mate! Thanks for the video! I think I can do that by myself, that would be a first time by the way, but that's doable. I have the exactly the same problem with my 70 inch tv. What is the name of that part you installed, I'll see if that is worth to buy instead of a whole new tv.
LED strip kit. I took mine to a local TV repair shop that was recommended by LG support and he swore up and down that it was the panel itself that was bad until I showed him this video
Hi we have this?system but the little bkack pin connector for the back of the 5 disc cd player has snapped. Do you know if I could buy a replacement anywhere. I know its a strange message but want to kerp the system. 😅
@MrReeceyburger123 I have a bit of a complex one. I believe some led driver boards do not kick in if they sense faulty led's. I am apprehensive to dismantle as far as the LED's if the issue is in the driver. My LG 32LV2500-ZA driver seems to be outputting the same voltage as it's receiving. 24V However it is not like most drivers it outputs via 2x 10 pin ribbon cables with 2x Vcc out on both ribbon cables some pins are NC and others are marked N1 N2 etc I believe from memory. I can not locate any faulty fets or caps etc. but it could be the fet driver chip i guess. I also have a feeling it could just be some bad LED's. Not sure what to do next. I could either take it to bits and test leds separately, or just order a set of leds, or i could possibly try to locate the FET driver chips and look them, up then try to test for a waveform. A new driver board is €45 New LEDs €20 and i paid €40 for the broken TV hmmmm. If i was getting the 96V i would simply buy the LED's If they had simple connections like in most models i would give them 96V to see if the leds work but this one seems tricky. I guess i will look up the chips on the board and try to test them for waveforms, failing this i will open the set deeper and test the leds.
