You guys are amazing. Your patients is over the top. You show the hard stuff & the grunt work. This is the kind of video you can learn from. Thank you to you both.
@@jerrykast7713 big thanks for the comment. We love to hear from you guys on what y’all want/need from a video. Also your comment helps us help others as well. Great to hear for ya and thanks for watchin. We’ll keep um coming.
Oh yeah, I pulled the idm and it's got a good amount of corrosion on the box and the black paint is easy to flake off and near the vent there is a bit of bubbling under the black paint
@@John-n6g I’m happy to help any way I can. You first comment was about the pcm. Then we moved to the p1316 idm code. It’s always possible that any component can fail but in my experience the 1316 code is usually wiring / connector related. Before we get too far into the weeds can we back up a bit? Tell me what’s been going on with the truck and let’s make sure we are on the right path.
First I'd like to thank you on your down to earth method of explaining what you are doing and what we can do!!! I tested my ohms on the idm harness and they all came within the parameters. Only the 5 and 7 showed 3.6 ohms. I haven't yet ohmed out the plug into the valve cover gaskets but will do so tomorrow after watching your informative video. I forgot to mention before that there were times, about a year ago that I would hit the accelerator 2 or 3 times to get a response and it would work and I didn't much think about it since everything seemed to work fine. Could that have been a sign that the idm was heading south or maybe the cps or pcm or the idm, which I'm thinking is the case? I could really use your thoughts on this matter before I start buying parts that I don't need. Thank you for your time in helping me!!!
@@John-n6g the accelerator pedal (ie throttle position sensor) is a know part to fail on these trucks. They usually get a dead spot around the usual speed you drive or can sometimes just go out. I swapped one out and a year later had an issue only to find out I failed to plug it all the way in till it locked. And it took a year to have the plug rattle loose. Had to come home from 2 hours out on cruise control cause I had no pedal response. Got real fun timing traffic and lights.
@@JustinLaurent-ow5rd glad you enjoyed it. Although seeing which video it is I hope you aren’t to deep in the weeds with your project. Let me know if any questions come up. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin
@@justicebruno5249 no sir. The glow plug relay shouldn’t have anything to do with fuel bowl heater. Now the fuel bow heater is on the same fuse as the pcm so when the fuel bowl heater shorts out it usually pops the fuse which kills power to the pcm. You may want to start there.
Very well explained along with the actual testing. You sure helped a lot of us , out here!!! Going to do that test tomorrow. Have the idm out already but if something shows up on test then I won't go and buy an idm just yet. Thank you !!!
@@John-n6g not to say the idm can’t go bad but I find more often than not it’s a wiring issue. Keep in mind that this test is limited tho. Even a frayed wire with only a couple of strands still connected can pass an ohm test but not carry the 120 v dc that the idm puts out.
@@John-n6g no. When testing ohms the meter uses its own battery power. But it is always a good idea to have the batteries disconnected when doing these kind of test. Uncles you are tracking volts or amps. Then they need to stay hooked up. Side note. You’ll be looking for out of spec ohm readings or no reading when there should be. Feel free to hit me back if questions arise.
I've been thinking about getting one of those winches but the only thing that keeps from it is I probably wouldn't need it that often although, there has been that occasion when it would've made life a hellava lot easier 😂 especially on my back!!!🤣. Try'n to watch some of your videos when i get time, I'm always trying to learn sumptin😂😂 Great video my friend 👍 Jay.
@@silvergrizzly316 big thanks. And as for the winch, I think it’s one of those things that you won’t believe how many times you will fine a need to use it until ya have it. My favorite part is the new wireless controller. You can be anywhere and operate the winch.
Trying to find a reasonably priced scan tool to diagnose what I think is a similar issue to what you had on this 7.3 what’s the name of the scanner you’re using or do you have any suggestions?
Several ppl I know use forescan but they have quite a few new scanners out there. Mine is an older genesis unit that I picked up from a mechanic who was upgrading.
@@chuckwwillingham530 I guess that would work as well. Or just shop air. But these choke testers put out some very hot and very cold air. They work quickly.
@@michaelatkinson3871 yep. Needed a new regulator. Just thought I’d show everyone how you can have a short even with the wires torqued. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin
It happens. I have had to refill hpop res 2-3 times after working on a truck. Depending on the job. Empty oil galleys can eat up what’s in the res quickly. Also, you can fill the oil galleys themselves if needed to not use the res oil
Big thanks. We do what we can to keep these ole gals on the road. Glad you enjoyed it. We’ll keep um coming. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin
Nope. I try to keep some good ones around when we swap injectors. For testing or if we need one or two to get by till all 8 need to be changed. Confirmed bad ones go into the core pile for returns. I have thought about rebuilding some but as of now it hasn’t been worth the time.
I've really enjoyed watching this video and all the others on the build - you are working on this the way I would hope to do the same job - though it will not be for a good while yet. Great ideas and very low cost. Hope you have good health and strength to enjoy the fruit of your labour!
Big thanks for the compliments. We are definitely having fun with most of the stuff we get ourselves into. lol The gantry was a pretty large project but when you break it down to small steps it’s not as bad as you think it will be. We’ll keep the videos coming and few free to touch base whenever you like. Thanks for watchin
Congratulations my friends!!!👏. LOOKS GREAT!! Maybe putting some power to it and make it easier to move. I guess I may hafta take a road trip to Louisiana to get some work done on the ole PowerStoke 😂. I've got some vids to catch up on so y'all take Care and be safe. ~Jay~7.3
Ended up being 11 frayed wires near the 42 pin plug. The loom had rubbed them bare and when the hpop lines were replaced the harness was disturbed causing a short that prevented communication with the ipr
Fellas, y'all are doin a fine job! A shop like that is what I've always wanted but it was always just a little out of my reach, something always came up and had to direct my money elsewhere. I've been away from YT for a good while now bcoz of health reasons but gonna try to be here for a while. The shop is looking great!!!
Hey bud! Good to hear back from ya. We always wonder what’s going on with our regulars when we don’t hear from them in a while. But I guess life happens. Hope you are on the back side of the health problems. We’ll keep the entertainment coming. You keep in touch.
Thanks for the compliment. And we have around 100 videos mostly on 7.3’s. Feel free to surf around. Might find something interesting. Thanks for watchin
Hey thanks for the neat comment, glad you enjoyed it. Definitely bayou diesel for the win, can’t say enough good about that man. We’ve been working side by side for about a year now, quite a few accomplishments down. Some I couldn’t even imagine just a year ago!
Really appreciate you taking the time to comment and appreciate the compliment. We are looking forward to doing some cool builds as we finish up the shop building. Hope to hear more from ya. Enjoy and thanks for watchin
All rolled into one: FUBAR, California Lashup, OreOkie operation!!! Never seen a rigging operation so screwed up in a lifetime of rigging both high tech and low.
You gotta luv it. I learned long ago there are 3 type of people in the world. Those who make things happen Those that watch things happen And those who wonder what happened.
The remote winch sounds cool. We were thinking about some cool custom touches but keeping a close eye on the budget as we finish the shop building. I doubt we are thru modifying it yet. Lol
nice job. NBS welding YT channel mounted a 12 v car battery and wench on the trolley with a solar trickle charger on his shop crane. wireless remote control too.
Getting a high side to low side open code test injector and wires just like I see in this video. Everything checks good but i get high side to low side open for all of the right side bank.
Sound like a short in the common hot for that bank. Keep in mind that an ohm test uses minimal voltage so if a wire is damaged (frayed) with just a few strands holding on the ohm test can pass but it will not carry a load when the idm try’s to send 120v DC thru it. You can disconnect both sides of the harness and use a light bulb to test the circuit and see if that wire can carry a load
There is a small actuator on the the steering column that is what unlocks the shifter when the brake is pressed. It coil be bad or loose. That might be what’s fighting against ya. The park pall or miss adjusted cable could also be causing trouble. I’d start with that actuator. You can test it by manually releasing it and trying the shifter.
The almighty algorithm knows all. lol. Glad the timing worked out so well. Hope this helps or at least is entertaining for ya. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.
Always good to hear that our videos helped a viewer. We are just like y’all, trying to keep our ole gals on the road. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.
Been busy logging a bunch of standing dead trees on the farm here in VT, but getting ready to get back on my f550 gin pole bed, and i was wondering, whats a good way to mount the live roll, so that i can disassemble it, but it wont just rattle the mount bolts out? I set up my gin pole pivot tabs so i can use them as live roll mounts, one will be a pin, welded to the roll, then the other end of the live roll will have a nut welded in, so i can thread a bolt in from the outboard end, maybe throw some lock tight on the threads? I run a lot of bad roads and worried that bolt will rattle out, but dont want to weld it in, fir when i inevitably realize i designed it wrong. It is in fact my first rodeo, with making a gin pole bed, ive used them before, which is why i want one so bad, all the free milling machines and stuff near me ard free cause the gotta be snaked out of a basement bulkhead entrance or something, hah.
I’ve had a couple with factory build live roll set ups. And I’ve never figured out how you would get into them. My first pole truck was a home made rig. Coming off of a standard flat bed corner was a heavy piece of angle on each side which was the mounting plate for a standard pillar block bearing and the roller was like a 5 or 6 inch pipe with caps on the end and welded to the centers of the caps was an 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 in pipe stem to be inverted into the bearing. It didn’t have any middle support but we used it for 20 years and it was old when we got it. Send me some picks of you pole mounts with the roller mount built in and I may be able to through ya an idea or two. Glad to hear from ya. It’s been a while
Awesome video Bayou diesel… ran this whole test on my 1997 everything checked out except cylinder 6 read 0 ohms. It has a P1316 engine code. Intermittent hard start and somewhat of a misfire.. I believe cylinder 6 injector isn’t spitting any oil out of the wheep hole either when I had the VC’s off. What do you think? Any ideas appreciated.
Usually 1316 means electrical issue in the harness. When I start at the idm plug and find an issue I will usually move inward to the 42 pin plug on the driver side valve cover. Test again. If issue is still there then I will move inward to the 9pin uvch plug and test again. If the issue stays in front of the of you then it may be that injector. If the issue disappears when you move inward then you have past it up and it is in the section of harness behind you. Hit me back if you have any more questions and thanks for watchin and the comments
Can you load test/ohm the wires between the idm and pcm plugs specifically the 818 circuit feedback signal output 817 circuit cylinder identification 821 circuit fuel delivery and what are steps do i need to have everything unplugged or everything plugged in
When it comes to testing the components that’s above my pay grade. lol. You can un plug the components and load test plug to plug to check integrity of the wires and pins. I have used a simple 12 v light to do this. Works well
@@bayoudiesel i don't mean the idm and pcm them selves just the plugs like the 42 pin to idm test but instead pcm plug to idm plug is it possible to test the 4 signal wires between idm and pcm i tried i cant get any continuity on anything i have main harness out that sits on top of engine i dont know if 42 pin plug has to be plugged in to do pcm plug to idm plug i still have a p1294 code these are last 4 wires and then i guess its idm time
Yes sir if you unplug the components then you can test the wires. I would ohm them first and then if you don’t find a trouble area then redo the test with a light like off of a trailer to apply load. You could do that light test first if you like and. Skip the ohm test. If you need the pin outs for the pcm plug I should have them and can send it to ya. Just send me your info at my email Bayoudieseltrucks@gmail.com
@@bayoudiesel so i need to unplug the 3 connectors on firewall and the 4 on inner fender as well or do they matter also do you know if the pcm diode in fusebox can cause individual bank to shut down or make it where im not getting any readings i cant get anything out of pcm plug thank you for your time
Also do you have to do pcm like the idm plug where your using both leads on one plug or its just plug to plug sorry for all the questions but i do appreciate it
I don’t have any info on testing the IDM. If you find some please share it and I’ll pass it around. As for the IDM I have a spare one that is good so when in doubt swap it out. PCM is the computer same as pcu just different terminology. And again I have no test procedures for that. I have a spare there as well. The pcm could be sent to diesel technology of Chattanooga to be tested. Possibly the idm to but you’d have to check with them. Let me know what going on with your rig and we can see if we come up with some ideas to get her purring again
In case I missed it when I first read this. The PCM is right next to the park brake and sticks thru the fire wall to meet a large plug under the master cylinder
Evenin I got the 7.3 started,i swapped the solenoid from 1 ipr to another and put a icp in it started and took awhile to run right but idled fine,test drove it and ran fine but…. When i turned it off and maybe 10 min later it starts and dies till i randomly put my foot on the fuel Pedal and it fired up now i know there is no cable on it and my fuel pedal is relatively nee and dont have a removable throttle post sensor. Got any ideas?
Were you able to put some drive time on it? Usually take about 40 plus miles of driving at different speeds to burp all the air out of the system and get them to run right again
The gear we needed for my 99 f 450 with 7.3 & zf6 manual transmission was part number 5-p-1245. Yr Hank’s for the comment and for watchin. We’ll keep um coming
Let me start over,after installing the hpop it started and ran but at idle it idled higher than before and after drivin it whe id try to start it would start and die so i put a oem ipr and a oem icp and it started good so last week i was drivin it and it died i towed it home and it cranks and no start,70 psi at fuel bowl scan tool shows 380 to icp and ipr 65% i sprayed startin fluid it starts and dies and i replaced cpm also it has a new 40,000 volt pcm but agin just cranks no start.
Based on that info I’m leaning towards hpop. 380 psi on icp won’t let injectors pop. As for the ipr %, at idol 9-12ish. 65% is max closed off bringing max hpop psi. Which should be in the 3000psi range. Under normal operation you will not usually see ipr opening more than the upper 30%. When it’s going to 65 (full closed) or more it is having trouble building pressure. Could be an hpop leak, air in the hpop system, or hpop reservoir empty. These symptoms will not allow pulsing of injectors so no fuel getting to the engine. Which is why she will run on either but when you stop spraying there is no fuel.
@@ronaldlemons2836 I run into brand new parts that don’t work at least a few times a month. I came in from a hotshot run in my 450 with 4 non working cps sensors on the floor. All bought that night on one run. Is the hpop reservoir full and staying full? Fully charged batteries?
Also when you open up the hpop oil system to change the pump,lines or injectors air gets into that system. It can take around 45 miles or so driving to burp that system and clear all the air out thus beginning to run right again.
@@bayoudiesel i checked the reservoir and its full, i just cant believe the new hpop could be bad ive changed several ipr and icp,s i have a tool box full of them, and i ordered another ipr from ford as i said before it has anew wirirng harness and fuel bowl OEM,i guess the next thing is to dead head the hpop
