There's a huge gap on the top of the left door, im surprised water was not pouring in from it, anyway I love the Land Rover series 3 such an iconic legendary vehicle.
You have just explained why my modded inline thermo causes my motor to heat up to96 before the thermo is fully open, until it gradually reaches equilibrium At 83deg c
@@EW_57 it's a real mess!!!! I can send it you if you like. Find my page on Facebook, LozL it's a group I think. There's nothing on it but it has this same logo. Send me a message there.
@@MarcoMeda-g1w Hi, thanks for the comment, the bleed screw on the top hose is still there. I don't think I actually used it though, I believe I pulled the hose just slightly off the thermostat to get the air out.... bit I was a while ago :)
Hello i have Opel corsa a with 3.2 v6 for drag racing and looking for more power. Now it have 235 hp what is max with tune but is helped with 100 hp of nitrous. Im buying standalone ecu and looking to do your tuning. I watched whole video and i will do it. Do you have some advices or measurments? Thanks
@@pokimotorsport Thanks for the comment. These are awesome engines! I have been really impressed with mine. They're so strong. Since this video I have now had it on a very accurate rolling road and it seems its only making 239hp not the 275 I thought. I believe the 3.2 has a lower compression ratio than the 3L. If I was building the ultimate engine I would try and get the 3.2 to have a much higher compression ratio somehow. Perhaps 3L heads on 3.2 bottom end. I'm not sure though as I only ever had the 3L. There was loads to port out of the exhaust ports on mine it had a horrible lump in the middle for backward air injection system to warm up the CAT. The nitrous will be fun! But might mean that the lower compression of the 3.2 is a benifit rather than a disadvantage. I guess it depends how ofter you are going to use the nitrous. Stand alone ECU is always a good way to go though, gives you so much freedom
@@pokimotorsport that's awesome! I got a 13.8 in the scimitar. Such a cracking engine. I was gunna supercharge it, the engine would take it all day long but the gearbox isn't thw strongest so I decided against it in the end
Hmm I assume the engine is tuned properly. Do you have the correct coolant, it only lasts about 30 months then it become acidic and needs to be changed. Are you using the correct oil, flat tappers need zinc in the oil 20/40 not synthetic. Do the 2 fans work, one is the clutch or viscous fan the other is the condenser fan, it’s behind the grill. If it is not working then the engine will over heat. All of thing things must be correct. My truck run at 189 F on a 30 C day in the driveway
@@murraylynn-tp8vm Hi Murray, thanks for the comment. So many questions. Yes it's all ship shape, I don't believe it has ever overheated luckily. This video is all about making it a bit more sensible. I tow a very heavy load with it and I want to feel confident that it can pull up a very steep hill indefinitely on a very hot day. This is something I now feel confident it could do (and it has done). I would however be worrying a lot with the original setup. The coolant specified for this model is g13 (I think its 13...) and last 5 years or so I believe. I did start and bed in the engine with high zinc oil but have now switched to no zinc as per spec for this model. A shame really I would way prefer to have the high zinc oil in but its not good for CATs and lambda sensors. I did repare the AC fan but I believe this isn't used until the AC is switched on.
Replace my strut and top mount with a new bearing. Now I have a twang noise with indicates the spring is sticking when turning the steering wheel. What have I done wrong ?
@@dg115 hmmm, that doesn't sound right. Best get it sorted ASAP or you'll have to add a new spring to the shopping list. It was a little while ago for me I'm afraid. I do remember that the rotation is acco.datoed through a plastic bearing assembly, two big plastic bits that press against each other. These must be too tight somehow. Perhaps a washer too many or something. Sorry I can't be more help. It would ve easier to figure out if mine was in bids still
@@PaulMcGuinness fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I'm glad they're helpful. I watched loads of YT while I was doing this one. Even if it's not particularly well explained ita just good to see it done before you tackle it. Thanks again
Hi, i‘m also restoring an old series 3 right now:) can you say me where you inform yourself about all the forces you have to screw the different screws in ? I have biiiig difficulties finding them
@@balthasarfedeler3845 I've seen a fair bit of it through RU-vid videos but the rest is from the haynes manual I have for it. Thanks for the comment. Best of luck with the project
2nd time using this one, the string i think ran out. Big garden haha. I'm struggling to replace it. It came with those blue replacement ones, the manual is just pictures and not text. Struggling at this very moment to actually replace it 😅
@@lozl Luckily his engine was in pretty good condition as the previous owner had oiled the bores. It didn't need many parts and looked very nice cleaned and painted. It was extremely quiet when it 1st started up too.
you need lots of initial advance.. right before it kicks back at the starter, and then correct total advance for wot. + vacuum MANIOLD advance to get to 30ish degres at idle for good crisp idle. that is my guess at least.. might be wrong
@@lozlI got all that from watching Tall John's Fun Shop , but I think he knows what he is doing. hehe.... :) I just worked on hot Rover 3.9 running 14-15 initial, 36 total, lighter springs + 16manifold vacuum advance. runs good, should possibly have more initial but have to stop mechanical earlier in that case.
@@theservant752 I kinda wish we had a stand alone ECU, then we could have found the perfect timing everywhere. Obviously the limitation of a dizzy. We found very little difference in torque (like pretty much none) at quite a few different timing settings. You're clearly seeing some effects for yours timing changes..... Someone else has suggested that perhaps the cam timing is out, making it less responsive to changes in ignition timing? Something to look at now that engine is out and thr 4.6 is in.
Thanks for this, my boot release was fine but i had a dent that i needed to pop out, your video helped me get the boot lining out so i could get to the dent 👍🏻
Try a product called lifter free,as lifters can glaze up over years,it's added to fresh oil and stays in till your next oil change, use one bottle if bad two bottles,plus you need to drive it around for a few days to allow it to work, it's not a flush and never use a flush as it will make things worse, plus bleed new lifters before installing them so they don't pump up with air plenty of videos on line so check them out,once your prepared them leave them upright in a clean container with clean oil so they don't bleed out
@@roybrookton7938 thanks for the comment Roy, but these are new and I did full them with oil before fitting. This is a quality problem, you can see in a later video, the fit between the plunger and the tappet body is too much.
Making life very hard for yourself with the limitation of that ECU just working with fuel pressure and advancing the distributor. I'm currently running a Speeduino ECU on a TVR Chimaera 4.0 Turbo install. Junk the AFM and dizzy and enjoy full control over map sensor controlled fuelling and ignition maps at any point in the rev range. Will drive so much better and really cheap to implement. A Speeduino ECU can be self built for around £100.
@@robinarmstrong8886 couldn't agree more. It would be great to get it on a standalone ECU. But unfortunately I wasn't able to commit to the time to converting everything over to stand alone. So he went down the Tornado ECU route.
@@lozl No worries. Sorry if it sounded like a criticism. Passionate about putting a new lease of life into the humble Rover V8. Love the content, have subscribed. :)
@@robinarmstrong8886 no worries, honestly I would have loved to have put an ECU on it. I have done so with my car, there are massive advantages and its so much fun. But i have so little time to do the work for the guy and wouldn't have wanted to half arse it. This is a pretty good way to go. Next time... :)
Thank you for sharing the issue you had with the replacement bearing races. I spent hours reassembling the box and each time had that 2-3mm gap. Followed your solution and reused the originals. I did use the new ball bearings. Worked great. Hopefully this saves someone else from wasting their Sunday.
@@simonkorzec9315 Cheers Simon, glad it was of help to you. I wish I could have got the proper kit in time. Ideally it wanted a whole new steering shaft but those are pretty tricky to find. Thanks again for taking the time to comment
Can you list the tools (e.g. spray gun thingy) and stone-chip/underseal/seam-sealers you are using.... I'm about to do some repairs to my 109, and this is new territory for me!
I'm afraid I forget exactly what products I used as it was a long while ago. And the bulkhead was a bit of an odd case as it wasn't the best quality.... Also It came to me primed already. So I put stone chip on the parts that were going to be hit with road debris then painted over everything. I think the paint just came from either eBay or paddocks, this was just a generic marine blue. And I was to buy the stone chip again, I would probably use buzzweld, they are a supplier and seem to be pretty good with recent experience. I'd go for a can or two of there stonechip, I'd pick one that comes with a application gun that can be used from a compressor. Then the paint I applied with my old spray gun, its nothing special, just a Clarke or something, I guess I could say that I find the top tank guns a little better as the pain drains in, they are less bulky too and less wasteful. Hope this is of some help.
Nice work. Thanks for your videos. I have torn down a highly modified S3 (Converted to coil over with LD28 Diesel engine and auto) with a 6 inch lift. In a nutshell your timelapse here helped me with some ideas like wiring whene only the firewall is on etc. Cheers. I am way down under in NZ and have never pulled a vehicle apart to this degree. YT recommended your vid to me. Cheers.
Hey chap only me again😂 time has come i start doing work on my landy, how long realistically did this take u to do ( strip down and then back together) coz i gotta do both front dumbiorns and bulkhead too
@@mkent1213 it took me about 2 years, but this was along side a job and family commitments, and I was rebuilding the discovery V8 engine for 6 to 9 months. So maybe a year to 18 months in total. You could look at it in hours though, it was a little over 400 hours, so technically if you had all the parts and worked on it full time, it could be done in 3 months
A work of art as usual, still can't get my head around how much effort you put into making things spot on having carefully calculated everything, most of us just go 'yeah that'll do' Excellent work!
I'm looking at this one right now, my garden has become quite overgrown, quite tall grass and weeds starting to form. Would a grass trimmer like this work well? Cheers mate.
@@IbbyB. yeah this sounds like your best bet. I chose it as it was the most powerful one I could find without an engine. It cleared our half acre no problem
btw the sd1 doesn't have a actual rev limiter it'll rev until the hydraulic followers overpump/something brakes, the redline of a standard sd1 is 5500rpm, the ecu doesn't control the ignition only gets a earth pulse to know rpm for injection pulse, a standard 3.5 injection engine is 190bhp so assuming that 203hp was at the crank I would say that 4.3l is very tired, should be up in the mid 200 with a ported tvr heads
Oh that's interesting about the ignition. It makes sense though. As you can tell I don't know too much about the working of this very early injection system. As you could see we were reluctant to rev it any more, so I'm pleased we managed to find peak power. I didn't really know what to expect going into the work, I was quite pleased with the result at the time, it certainly feels nice and quick to drive. As I've looked into it though, I have realised that it must be down on power somewhat. Its worth noting though that it has a standard 4.2 camshaft fitted, not the camshaft that would have come in the TVR engine. Big valves, big ports and runners, and the bigger throttle body all give the best effects at high rpm, which is exactly where the standard camshaft will be limiting flow somewhat. That said we have also thought the 4.2 might be a little tired. It will soon be removed and a 4.6 put in its place with the ongoing work on the car. We can then assess the condition of that 4.2.
@@lozl the injection system is a borsch system that Lucas licensed. I don’t believe you can run a mix of components from either manufacturer the system is called L jettronic Standard can shaft. Would think it should be about 220-230hp. With the other tvr bits. a standard 4.6 is 220hp with a restrictive inlet so missing about 20-30hp that 4.3 is
I know it’s a long time ago but only just watched your videos, for future reference the front prop is the wrong way round, the gator goes to the axel not above the crossmember 👍🏻
@@jimburch382 Jim!!!!! I got that completely wrong didn't I. I wonder what made me put it on that way. I have a feeling a labelled it as I came apart, so it knight have been wrong to start with. Or perhaps I'm just a muppet and got it wrong all by self :) Good spot though! Thanks for the comment.
Thanks Jim. He very quickly fell out of love it with. I've has one as his first work vehicle yesra ago. Rose tinted spectacles played their part, then the reality of driving a vehicle without power steering or brakes quickly set in. It has now been sold. A shame. But the new owner is enjoying it I believe
Did you find what the problem was with the paint. Got the same repair to do on my 1975 S3.....bought it new when I was 23. I will prob brush paint mine is I can still find a supplier of polyurethane paint that I can easy thin down.
I cant say for sure. The paint was partly to blame I think, it was very sensitive to contamination. The of course the othe problem was probably bad prep and contamination. I scratched the surface and tried again and all was well the second time round.
@@lozl I did think surface contamination but thought....no you look like your doing a thorough job. What did you do about the missing radius. Can I ask where you got your repair section. I have seen a guy on Facebook...Welding Wood...he does them.
@@nickaxe771 Nick, you're too kind! But yeah I think I just hadn't preped it well enough. I left the gard Edge, I didn't make it match the radius of the original as it was all covered by the grill. I'm afraid I'm not sure where that came from.... I got a lot of bits from paddocks. If they have one on there then I believe that's likely where I got it from.
@@dizzy_cap_car_showCheers dude. We shall see what interest it gets. First video since the RR restoration series. Be interesting to see if it gets more views
Thanks buddy, there is one more build video to come then some.more action videos hopefully. Yeah man I would love to have you engine on there just gotta sort the car first:)
I ran across your series of videos on this conversion kit. I have a Ford 2000 gas version. One thing that I must have missed in your videos, is where the pump is mounted as well as the reservoir.
Pump is mounted into the engine block side of the timing cover, there is a spare blanked off hole here on the 3600 and all the 3000 and 4000 3 cylinder engines. I guess the 2000 is the same. This is where the PAS pump goes if it was fitted from the factory. The reservoir, I mounted up inside the bonnet on the exhaust side. It seems to be happy enough there. Hope this helps
@@lozl I hear you, currently doing my series 3 109, I use your vids and a few others as reference, great attention to detail. Good luck with the dyno, I’m sure you’ll get a ton of work for it. Thanks for the great content btw. Cheers from Tasmania
@@timmillikan1155 Tim, thanks for your kind comments. That's great that videos help. I looked at a few of 'croker vs rover' video before tackling some parts. Just finished the rolling a few months back, had a show yesterday, just getting ready to leave for a car meet today :) Thanks again
I cant wait to show you! I'm sorry I can't bring it up there man :( we're only going to castle combe tomorrow, an hour away and we're going to struggle not to make a loss....
