Of·ten /ˈôf(t)ən,ˈäf(t)ən/ adverb - frequently Wrong /rôNG/ adjective - incorrect. Par·a·digm /ˈperəˌdīm/ noun - example or pattern; a model.
Subscribe if you learned something or found it entertaining to watch. I’m going to keep putting out vids, mostly on Golf Cart stuff... but other stuff as well, and you may find those to be helpful or entertaining too.
I may not know the right way to do things. I look to see what other people are doing (if anyone is), and then I go do my own thing. I'll make mistakes. It'll be entertaining, and you won't make the mistakes I make. Maybe even pick up a few tips and tricks along the way to get something done better, easier, cheaper, or whatever.
I take requests and questions to feature in videos and shorts. Go ahead, like, comment, subscribe, see what happens. This could be entertaining.
Do you have a RU-vid Channel? Local business, or product in the Charleston, SC or Savannah, GA area? Email me if you're interested in collaborating.
I am new to this and trying to read up on busbars and converters. On your wiring, isn't the black input from the converter suppose to go directly to the battery negative. The other black 12v output goes to the fuse block. Does a fuse block take the place of a busbar, just giving you the added protection of a fuse?
I’m not sure if you’ve already heard this, but I wanted to share a quick tip that might help with your garage door. If you want the door to open higher and sit flatter against the ceiling, you just need to adjust the holes on the hockey stick-shaped bar that connects the trolley (where the release rope is attached) to the door itself. By moving the connection point, the door will be pulled farther up the track, allowing it to sit fully out of the garage opening. I had the same issue, and this adjustment made a big difference. Just thought I’d pass that along!
Yeah, a modest amount. Made it feel a little lighter on its toes. Between the exhaust, k&n filter, and the tuner, it wasn't earth shattering, but made it more fun to drive. It got slightly better gas mileage, as long as I could keep my foot off the long skinny pedal.
If you get the programmer linked in the description, mine came with a CD-ROM and a USB flash drive with the program to access the module and make any changes you want. I would highly suggest keeping a log or notes of any changes you make, so you can quickly and easily change them back if there's a malfunction or an issue.
I can't get the app to connect unless I have the cart plugged in which doesn't give you any of the good stuff. I let my cart run completely out of charge and for some reason the battery meter won't light up either. Saw a post about disconnecting negative from the charger for 30 sec and it would clear up and resync the batteries but no dice. Anybody have any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank You and Thank You for the videos you put out
Great video! Question: lifted 4p, front tires bald at about 700 miles. Replacing tires and going to adjust the toe. What is best for tire wear? In, out, neutral? Seems there are many opinions on this
That seems really low miles for bald tires. I'm at 2175 miles and the tread is still pretty good. Is your air pressure good? Not overloading it? I've gone back and forth a few times on the alignment on mine. I've had it set at a slight toe out for the past few months. Something like 1/2in toe out. I find it's stable in the straightaways and still corners well that way. toe in is going to wear the tires needlessly and make turning difficult. Neutral will be ok for general driving, but feels "floaty" to me. Slight toe out could slightly wear the tires going straight, but will save them in the corners, turning is easier. Too much toe out is going to wear the tires needlessly and make turning very snappy. If it's wear due to camber... we are all SOL on that one. It's not adjustable that I've found. Something is damaged and needs fixed.
Unfortunately, I didn't find one yet that didn't come from Bintelli. If I can figure out where the steering rack came from, that would help. It's not borrowed from the big 3 carts.
Is the Curtis 1314-4401 software compatible with my Curtis 1244-5451 Controller ?? Also what cable did you use ?? Do you know if this software will load on a Mac ??
The good news is, yes I did find that controller is supported by this programmer. The bad news is, the software only runs on Windows. I bought the programmer listed down in the description of the video. If you select the right one, you'll see my channel's name review on Amazon. Not my best review work, but at least you'll know you have the right one.
My fuse block has an accessory key to where everything will go off with the key off. I guess I have to run a separate switch that will go to the reducer since my key and the dash is 48 volts now?
It depends on the controller you have. If it's the curtis controller, there's a link to that one in the description. If it's one of the other controllers, there's a facebook group (ExCar/Bintelli/REVO) with a member (Gnarly Matt) that makes the cables. I think you then have to get the software from buggies gone wild or another source.
I wish. I have learned tossing the little snap pop's left over from the 4th of July in their direction clears them out pretty quick... I read this on the internet and certainly have not tried this a few times recently just to see if it really worked.
If they aren't permanently attached in that kit a thin layer of radiant barrier between the foam and the metal makes an even bigger difference. Just the basic double reflective .19" stuff. It's about $10 a roll I think it took me 2.5 rolls for about the same size door.
In my very brief research online, I kept seeing the radiant barrier needing to have an air gap to reflect the heat back to. I didn't really feel like getting into the science of radiant barriers, figuring out how to create that air gap correctly, and the science on foam seemed pretty straightforward. I might be interested in doing a comparison of the two. Grab a single roll and do half the door, see what the difference is from one side to the other. Now I'm wondering, would the radiant barrier foil taped to the interior side of the door, with the foam in the middle, make a big difference? Basically one big strip capping off the interior cavity of the door with the foam inside.
@@oftenwrongparadigm I don't know about the foil tape, but I do know I used the stuff that is basically like foil bubble wrap. I don't have any particular air gap beyond what it creates for itself. My setup is the metal of the door, the Radiant barrier and then the foam just right on top of it. I never measured it, but the overall temperature in my garage seemed quite a bit lower after the barrier than before. I'm down in Ga, so sometimes it is difficult to tell which is the bigger problem, the heat or the humidity. It certainly would be interesting to see if that actually makes a real difference or if it was just placebo.
Possibly. Depends on if you want to try to reuse or repurpose them. If not repurposing them later, you could cut them in half easily and remove them. They don't need glue or anything to hold them in place. If trying to repurpose them, you would need to be very careful when removing them. A pry bar half way up the panel should be able to create the same bend on the side to pop them out. But, each garage door will have slightly different measurements between the vertical bars. So, they may not be a great fit for the next door.
I find most garage doors, even just professional installed leaks A LOT at the top and sides. My phone has Infiray thermal camera in it so i check a lot of things for fun 😅 And every one leaks, and not just a little! I adjusted mine and at work and it got much better but still between every linked panel there is often a gap that isn't necessary that let's in large spiders and bugs aswell...
And using those contactless thermometers you MUST KNOW about thermal emissivity, that every metal that isn't painted is more like a mirror and you measure yourself or the room instead of what you point at, aluminium and copper is the absolute worst, even when looking very dull and matt a Thermal camera sees it as a mirror and it is very interesting to see 😅 One trick is to use black electrical tape or masking tape on shiny metals and surfaces. And always have a slight angle like 80° instead of 90 to prevent measuring yourself, but not too much. And also when your distance from the wall/door increases the area the temperature is measured over gets very large very quick, typical at 30cm away is 5-10 cm diameter circle but at one meter or more you measure the average of maybe 60-100 cm diameter! It's listed in the manual or maybe on the sides of the termometer. If you doo a lot around the home for improving insulation and airtightness i recommend buing a infiRay P2 Pro thermal camera module for your phone, it shows EVERYTHING! at a high detail for air leak and thermal insulation problems
I know I need to replace the weatherstrip around the door too. I've been getting some bugs in the garage the past couple years. The past year I've been getting gecko's and anole's in the garage. They keep me company and help keep the bug population down.
It was 124* here today!!!! Bullhead City AZ. I did this insulation 2 years ago and it really doesn't do squat when the afternoon sun is hitting my garage doors. I hit my metal framing on the door with my heat gun today and it was almost 170* and that radiates into the garage. My next step is to get some 4" thick foam and glue that to the metal door frames, might have to do a little trimming for clearance when the door is opening and closing as the hinges are only about 2.5" -- -- I put a 48,000 BTU ductless AC in my garage just because it made sense LOL.
I used the Insulfoam Garage Door Insulation Kit. Here's a link to it: www.lowes.com/pd/Insulfoam-Common-1-25-in-x-1-6875-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-1-25-in-x-1-6875-ft-x-4-5-ft-Garage-Door-Insulation-Kit-1-R-4-8-Faced-Polystyrene-Garage-Door-Foam-Board-Insulation/50244957
I guess that depends on what you are breaking... There are parts available. The dealer parts prices are insane though. With enough looking around, I've been able to source a few parts I've needed, without going to the stealership for them. Parts are out there, they are. Just not as mainstream and plentiful as the big 3 parts are. Some parts from the big 3 to fit and work well. Trial and error on those though.
Have you double checked the controller to make sure you have the correct programmer? or, tried variations of the cart being off or on when you plug it in?
You're using the wrong program more than likely. I have an 2024 Evolution D5 Ranger 4 with a 400-C controller and you need specific software for that particular controller. Even though the cables do work for other model controllers besides the Curtis controller, it will not connect. Look at the type of controller you have and post here. I got my cart from 25mph to 32mph with just adjusting the high to 5650rpm. Max rpm for my motor is 6000. It's a good idea not to max the rpm out. As stated in the video, make small changes and test drive. Take video or photos of original and new changes. Always document...
For physical size, the fuse holder will tell you what size it uses. For the amps, I would stick close to what the devise manufacturer says, or check it's "max draw" rate and go with that amp rating of a fuse. Going bigger on the amps just makes the fire risk go way up.
Excellent video thanks! I have an Atlas cart with a Nidec 400A controller and a 4-pin connector under the dash. It already gets 25.9MPH but would do with some more. Any thoughts on whether there's a kit available to do that? Thanks!
That controller I don't know much about. The guy I know who makes cables hasn't mentioned that brand as something he can make. Check the Buggies Gone Wild forum for that cart/controller. There may be someone with hands on experience with them. Good luck!
Hi, we bought a Bintelli cart last year and love it but this year when we got it out in the Spring the brakes were almost gone! No pedal! How do I 1) get to the brake fluid reservoir? 2) bleed the brakes?
That's not good. I'll do a vid this week (hopefully) showing how to get to the reservoir. I've not seen mine but hope it has a dot fluid number on the cap to assist... otherwise, I'll put in what I have.
I have a TXT, parameters have way less options. Basically profile selections, speed, accel selection and braking. Need to figure out how to get into dealer mode to turn enable Freedom. There are hundreds of pages in forums but I have yet to find a solution other than brining it to a dealer. There has to be a back door.
thank you, you cleared up some parts I was having issues with on my Telluride.. the only thing that could've made it better is more detail after 2nd row.. it was glossed over and that was an area I was stuck in.. as for mounting on the rear light, creative! not my preference, but creative. I didn't want the framed window, but it does handle the door opening. I ended up running the wire via the rubber hosing to the rear window directly (mindful not to put on the defrost elements).. opens and closes well.. lot of slack. anyways thank you once again
Those aren't fans... but that is a good idea. Those are some wake tower speakers for a boat or ATV. They work pretty good for budget speakers and amp. There's a vid on the channel page for the "noam speakers" if you are interested. OK for the price, considering it's many hundreds of dollars for "good" quality wake tower speakers and then more $$$ for an amp. I may upgrade one of these days. But a fan or 2 would be nice when sitting without a breeze. I may look into a 12v fan... like the ones in the old school busses.
Purchased yesterday, almost ready to return before even trying the saw. The leg stand instructions are some of the worst I have ever seen, and the leg stand seems to be not correctly made, about 1/2" off. I may be able to bend it for a better fit, if not it is out of here.
Sorry to hear you didn't have an easy time with it. If there's issues with the parts, for sure take it back, try another one. Hopefully there aren't issues with the replacement. Good luck!
Maybe there's a way you can lower the rear of the roof by cutting/splicing 1" off the rear supports. If you're into trigonometry, I found this on the internet. Don't know how accurate it is. Estimate the turn radius: 1) measure the length of the wheel base (distance from front axle to rear axle). Mine is 8 ft. 2) measure the angle that the front wheel makes between straight ahead and full turn to the left (or right). Mine is 30° 3) get the tangent of the angle in step 2. Mine is . 577 4) divide #1 by #3. I got 13.86 5) add the width of the machine to #4. I got 18.86 It could be close depending upon how accurate the angle is measured. The specs on my ride says = 18 ft. turning radius. The turn radius is measured to the outermost sidewall of the outside wheel. I wonder how close this internet formula works for your machine or others who may want to try this.
Gotta love the math! I'm keeping my eyes open for some spacers that will fit the rear roof to about half of what the factory ones are. That should be enough for me to not rub the door when going in/out.
That controller I don't know much about. The guy I know who makes cables hasn't mentioned that brand as something he can make. Check the Buggies Gone Wild forum for that cart/controller. There may be someone with hands on experience with them. Good luck!
I have 2016 EZGO RXV Freedom Limited and just installed an EcoBattery 51V 105ah. For adjusting the Curtis controller, is it best to utilize a handheld programmer or the PC model you demonstrated? Currently, my cart takes off quick and jerks to stop increasing speed at 19.5mph
I like the PC programmer better, just a personal preference. They both should do the same thing though. Just make sure it's not a limited programmer. You will want one that has OEM or Dealer level access. Good luck!
Everyone needs to realize this software will not allow you to change all parameters on your cart. Some features are locked even in OEM mode. Every cart is different. Curtis uses a proprietary software called Integrated Toolkit that is impossible to get. Only very large OEMs can get it. The only other option is to flash the memory with a firmware upgrade, again impossible to get.
Thanks for that added info. I've been able to make the changes to the settings as desired. I'm sure the manufacturer has access to some impressive other tools for their uses.
I really wish I could capitalize on some of the mods I'm doing. I just don't have the time to manufacture. Even though the vid seems like it's a quick process, I think it took about 3 weeks for me to get these bars done, and about the same to do the version 2 of the winch bumper. The hitch only took a few hours... but I forgot to paint it :D
After struggling to figure out the storage of guards and such on the sides, I found this video only to find you had a similar issue. Some more struggling and head scratching ensued. Alas, the miter gauge slides horizontal behind the other stuff in a slot, top faces the motor. The gauge cannot be locked at 90° to insert, but has to be at 90° to push in all the way.
Just bought this saw last week. Assembly of the legs a little tricky as the instructions are a little hard to make out. But no big deal. It is easy to fold up and move, I have to work out of a yard shed and just move it outside. The power button has to be held for a second to stay on. I do stuff that requires shallow cuts or bevel cuts. The plastic plate around the blade isn't very ridged and a little warped which make making those type of cuts hard to make consistent. Need to solve that problem, going to try to make a new one from aluminum plate or acrilic.
I haven't looked yet, I don't need it yet, but I'm going to want a dado blade for some work I need to do. I'll need to find or make one too. Good luck!
You mentioned in one of your videos that you installed a viper alarm system. Can you show a pic? I went to Amazon but wasn’t certain what alarm I should buy for my cart.
In the description of this vid, there is this link to the now unavailable alarm. I'll try to get a link to the video where I show the wiring and splice wires when I get home in a few days. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4xUOhLUNb2U.htmlsi=GV9lSG7o6ufUXX-N This one seems to be the new version of the alarm. It's a little different, but appears to wire up pretty much the same way. amzn.to/3JaB0lK There are some other alarms for motorcycles that will work too, but you may need to do some trial and error work to adapt to the cart. If I have the time and a few extra bucks in a couple weeks, I might buy that new viper alarm to test it out and see what the differences are. Also, it'll give me the opportunity to do a better alarm installation video.
That is a kill-a-watt meter, from harbor freight. hftools.com/app93519 looks like they're $27.99 Right now. I'm not sure I paid that much for it, probably caught it on sale and/or used a coupon. Mine is a 2022, very little has changed to the current model year that I've noticed. I went into the main showroom in Charleston about a month ago, just to check, out of curiosity. The main differences in the new carts, unique ignition key that also opens the glove box and now it comes with the pull straps for the back seat. I still like my pull straps better 😁 They also have more/better lithium battery options than when I purchased mine. But that kind of makes sense as more companies now make them.
@@oftenwrongparadigm Thanks for the info. I just purchased a new 2022 Bintelli Beyond. It had 3 miles on it when I drove it. Going to be delivered tomorrow. Really excited to get it.
