The Grass Factor explores the science behind why we do what we do in lawn care. We discuss the chemical and biological properties of plants, herbicides, fungicides, fertilizers, and biostimulants and their use in functional, high performance turfgrass situations.
The momentum that I get from Site One is the Lesco product but it’s called momentum four score. What do you think about that compared to the momentum FX two
I’m not sure I’d be able to work around that no cutting the grass two days before and two days after for Quinchlorac that only leaves three days out of the week to put it down and if you have a five day route, that’s two days where somebody’s getting the chloric at the wrong time. Also, the amount of coordination that would take to, get on the same page with the homeowners just isn’t worth it.
@@molemaverick for sure, that's why I think pylex is a better choice these days. It's spendy, but the cost per acre is relatively low, requires lower use rates, more flexible timing, and more consistent results.
@@TheGrassFactor, so, is pylex a brand name? I get all my stuff at Site One, but I’ve never seen that there. Do you get your stuff at Site One or do you order off of Amazon?
Thanks for the great content. I find it harder to follow when you use the brand names of the products because usually where I get the products they don’t carry the brand names you’re talking about. I know you mentioned the active ingredients quickly, but I would rather hear it referred to as the active ingredients and then I can go on the label and figure out what has what. That’s just my two cents. Please don’t take that as anything but positive feedback. Also, I’m wondering if you have put together any type of plan for cool season grasses that someone could purchase. I do six applications here in zone 6A and I’m just curious what the best Way to do it is if I am willing to spend more on my products., I hear people leaving stuff out because certain things are too expensive. But, if I’m willing to spend the extra money to make sure that my lawns are weed free. I’m wondering if, you have it in writing anywhere where I can study what you think. Thanks again.
Nutsedge in NY 🤯 I really appreciate the time you took to make this detailed presentation. I agree with changing the attack plan. If they spread via tubers, then attack the tubers. I will do some more research looking to find if some of the items are in granular form
Matt, thanks for the info. I've read that Prodiamine breaks down due to UV degradation and exposure to light. You referenced this when you mentioned both the poor results when pre-emergent applied to bare soil as well as the recommendation of dropping the height of cut to remove any lingering prodiamine from the soil prior to fall overseeding. Do you have any estimate how much prodiamine applied to bare dirt can be affected by UV? I ask because I've applied close to 1# of AI prodiamine on some problem lawns in April (transition zone, Tall Fescue) that now need fall renovation and have had dieback due to the extreme heat we have had here. I am hoping the poor turf canopy coverage in these particular lawns will help to facilitate the breakdown of the barrier.
13:15- Thanks guys as always!! I will hit it hard this Fall with AMS and I am excited to see what happens. FYI, The Terrace area is the same seed mixture as the bad area, so I do have hope I can get it to look good. I believe I misspoke in the video and Rey said it correctly. I have creeping Red Fescue (25%) in my seed mix. (La Crosse Seeds- Madison Parks mix
This is nonsense there’s no a single greenskeeper at a reputable golf course or Major League Baseball of football team that would subscribe to this casual nonchalant iconoclastic approach to optimizing grass .❤
Thanks for posting this video. I have had a very thin, struggling side yard of Emerald Zoysia for almost 15 years or so. I had it tested for nematodes soon after we sodded it after we cleared our side yard of trees and levelled it. It quickly started to look splotchy and thin. It tested with a high concentration of root knot nematodes, but I was too cheap to bring in a commercial applicator to deal with it and there were no homeowner legal chemicals. I have spent a lot of time and money this year on the yard for fertilizer, herbicides, and limited sodding of some natural areas and previous mortality. The front yard looked fantastic, the side yard struggled. I did not bother testing again for nematodes, just assumed they were still there. I located a 2% Abemectin product (Lucid) online and someone sold some Duplex on ebay. Interestingly, Lucid is not labelled specifically for nematodes. I applied at the 16oz/acre rate you recommended with a backpack battery sprayer and wearing a Tyvek suit, mask, goggles, and gloves . The results have been spectacular. The lawn took off and the bare spots are filling in quickly (at least, as quickly as Zoysia grows). The newly sodded areas were damaged, with about 50% mortality. Not sure if it was the Lucid (Abemectin 2%) or the Duplex or the combination that did the damage, but the results were worth it for the vast majority of the old growth Zoysia. I will reapply the Lucid and Duplex to the side yard this winter to make sure I killed off the root knot nematodes for good and also use it on an isolated area of the front lawn adjacent to my neighbor that looks thin also. As a note, based on the time we have had nematodes, the online wisdom that nematodes spread extraordinarily slowly is true. They never moved even a few feet to our front yard in 15 years. I can only assume they came in on the original sod and have been happily munching away on the Zoysia roots and procreating ever since.
Never listen to a talk about "gardening" with a dude that is sitting in a chair , headphones on, and only blabbering. Never had a shovel in his hands except back at 4yrs old in the sand box...SMFH !
1:50:05 Mixing AMS with Triclopyr question: AMS should be watered in (correct?), but Triclopyr needs to stay on the weed. How do I handle this? I may be too concerned about watering in the AMS (?) as Matt says many people are 😀, so any suggestions are appreciated. I can put 1 gallon of product/1000 ² with my sprayer. 0.1 AMS and Triclopyr and don't worry about when the rain will come? This will be applied during the cooler Fall temperatures which helps.
I just found this channel about a month ago and have been watching the newest video, but this is the best stuff. Matt is going over a subject and educating us. Thank you Matt
I just found this channel about a month ago and have been watching the newest video, but this is the best stuff. Matt is going over a subject and educating us. Thank you Matt
Guys, you need to have Dr Shaddox on this show more! I am not college educated in turf grass, however i have grown a fert business over the last 10 years or so learning from guys like Matt! Years ago Matt opened my eyes to looking at things we use much different! Dr Shaddox filled in some gaps i had suspension about! GreenDoc is a legend in the lawn care world and surprise pesticide companies do not pat him for his in field knowledge!
I have found the best technique to kill nutsedge - ( I am NOT a professional - just a guy who's tried everything) - is to mix 5 parts Spectracide (black bottle) with 1/10 parts Tenacity. I then load it into a meat (marinate) injector, and inject it into the soil about 1 1/2" below the surface at every nutsedge crown. It works.
My soil test has: pH 6.6 Calcium 609.77 Magnesium 142.03 Nitrogen 1.83 Iron 2.19 Sodium 8.4 Potassium 31.5 I just bought this house in May (Indiana) magnesium I believe explains why my lawn is really compact but the calcium and magnesium levels are so high I’m surprised my pH levels are optimal. My English Walnut tree is also shedding leaves like it’s fall right now. Any advice would help. I want to be able to overseed fireball/hatrick perineal rye around Aug 24th. Please and thank you
Interesting topic here! FWIW we had this offer on our EOP last year. We did not bite bc we just don't use it that much of it..... I spoke to my rep after watching to ask if they had similar issues. He says the offer was bc FMC was getting it handed to them by the generics the past few years and have lost a ton of market share on sulfentrazone. He also told me they sold truck loads of it. Guys ordering pallets worth!...At the same he said they haven't had any issues similar to what Michael saw, and to his knowledge there was no formulation change 🙄. I'd guess he probably wouldn't know unless someone told him as indicated in this video.....Great work as always!
May I add, I've also always used less than maximum rate on al.ost all applications with excellent results. And I've also noticed too many "professionals " that have no idea on gallons/1000 or acre, calibration of any equipment, and actually understanding the importance of being knowledgeable. Watching many applicators out in the field is at times concerning.
Excellent information. I have 42 years in this industry and take the chemistry of it very important. I have skipped preemergent on established healthy lawns and didn't identify any major problems. Yes, post only worked fabulous. My truck is set up with multiple tanks that also allow me to treat only problem areas with certain products. I also believe we must do a better job of educating our customers on understanding acceptable levels of weeds vs excessive chemical use. Thanks for such great information. It does help in developing a strategy that provides high level turf and an overall reduction in chemicals.
Enjoyed the video, Matt. I’m in north Mississippi and a couple of years ago plugged my Bermudan lawn with Palisades Zoysia. It has done well and become thick and healthy all along the paved areas; street, driveway, sidewalks. But in the center of the yard the spread has not gone well. The Bermudan still prevails. I now plug from the healthy areas to not so thick areas to help with the spread. Is there anything I can do to help encourage the Zoysia to spread and thicken and help it overcome the Bermuda? Any suggestions from you or your viewers would be much appreciated.
So asd is a developmental disorder which meny spectrums are caused by a variety of endocrin disrupting cemicals exposed at different pre and post natal phases of development . Now the running hypothesis around asd and glyphsate is cemicaly similar short chain amino-acid glycerine now the downstream effects of a glycerine impostor effecting the body in the way Stephanie seneff describes it makes sense. Now on the topic of endocrin disrupting cemicals effecting development prenatal and post natal the similar conditions of flooding respters with impostor hormones compatible with the respters resulting in developmental offsets makes the most sense and follows simular patterns to how offsets occur . Now endocrin disrupting cemicals are found to be epigenetic as well lasting 9 generations in the case of Artrazine an other round up realted cemical . So if you have multiple generations of endocrin disrupting cemicals of meny type te only way to crunch that data I use more nuance version of Steven wolframs cellar atomaton model design to show different exposures at different stages of development till you get a computer model of developmental diversity and expression. I get your message Dudes fuck snake oil salesman but you didn't even mention the glycerine or mention the midacondra issue in processing glucose.. all the actual parts of the 11 papers Stephanie seneff hand a hand in your podcast ..
My lawn is Ryan Knorr's famous sissy grass (perennial rye blend), I get a lot of seed shoots in the spring...... would Dithiopyr have any effect on the seed shoots?
I thought you said in the ron henry video not to use fungicide to prevent fungus. That it can cause resistance. It would have prevented this like Ron henry says to do..
I just stopped doing solid test every year. Water, nitrogen and pgr for tif 419 in Texas. Until the turf tells me I need a test, I’m not stressing adding anything else.
