Hey man! Thank you for the video! I had my oil light on when the engine was hot and it was on under a 1000 rpm. Put the MANN filter in and gone it is. I can’t thank you enough!!
Great stuff! I'm delighted to hear this. It's been working for me for years now. I'd imagine that the official BMW air filter is also just as good, but I've never used that as the MANN one is easy to get at your local motor factors. Thanks for the feedback.
I was not sure if this was a modern mini headlight you tried this on ie plastic headlight or a classic 1960 -glass headlight. Your introduction shows 2 classic mini in the garden.
Sorry for the confusion, that's just my Intro, it's the same on every video. That's just from when I was younger. It shows you how long I've been mangling repairs on cars!
@@banjaxedcars Right so the introduction of old mini is nothing to do with what you were doing in that particular video, so I gather the headlight being restored was a modern BMW mini, ie not glass but plastic.
@@jimbodee4043 That's right. Think of it less as an introduction and more as my titles. The plastic lenses of newer cars are blighted with this issue, it's not just MINIs. I don't ever remember having to remedy a clouded glass lens. I only have a BMW MINI now.
Thanks for posting this! I'm discovering it now as I'm doing my oil change. I previously used a Purflux oil filter on which you could fit the cage (I still have it), but after buying a Mann filter this time, the stock cage DOES NOT fit. It's great to know it'll work without issue, though I might go on another brand that fits the cage next time. At 3:50, do you know the usefulness of the small black tube in the oil filter housing? It dropped down during my previous oil change (2 years ago) and I've been running my Mini without it ever since, since I did not know what it was or where it went.
Okay, thanks for that info, I've never had the old cage that was supposed to be in these filter bodies, so I didn't know that it doesn't work with the MANN filters. It seems odd that MANN would sell a R50 filter that doesn't fit if the original cage is present, but I'll have to take your word for it. All I know is that if your MINI has lost its cage and spring the MANN filter works perfectly. The black tube is the drain back plunger. See: www.minimania.com/MINI__02_04__Oil_Filter_Confusion___Problem___Hints. If this has broken, then you're probably looking at a replacement oil filter body. I would go for one of the newer ones from the facelifted Gen 1 R50s, as they work without the cage and spring.
@@banjaxedcars Turns out while it worked without that part for 2 years (but with the spring & cage), now with the MANN filter and without the spring & cage, I have the low oil pressure warning light at idle. I'll try to find that black tube and thread it back in the housing (it's not broken, it just unthreaded itself during last oil change and I didn't know where it went). I'll also revert to a filter that allows me to refit the cage as I stil have it. Thanks for the help! Your video was definitely crucial to me figuring out where this black tube went and why this low oil pressure happened.
@@MecanoDeLaCave Sorry to hear that the MANN filter didn't work for you, but if you have the cage and spring then use those. If I had the original cage and spring then I wouldn't have gone off trying to find a filter that worked without them. As for the MANN filter not working for you, that's a pain. It works for me and I can only report back my own findings. I also know that upgrading to the newer filter housing (on facelifted Gen1 R50s) also works - with any filter. Good luck rethreading the drain back plunger. There's always something to keep us busy with theses cars. 😀
@@banjaxedcars Yeah, I just wanted to point it out in case someone else wanders here looking for answers as well :) Informations are not easy to find on those. Again, it's probably not the MANN filter but the combination of missing spring+cage and missing drain back plunger. Also yeah I know about the newer filter housing, I'm just trying to avoid to pay for one if possible. Perhaps a project for the future, when either the cage or the drain back plunger will inevitably break due to plastic aging. Thanks! I'm waiting on a new filter that I know I can fit the cage in (it'll be double-caged since that filter also has a cage) so I can fit all parts were they rightly belong.
Hey mate. Great video and glad I came across this today. I've had a bit of a nightmare trying to find info. I have ended up with the same MANN filter without the cage or spring. First attempt I was given the wrong filter that had no internal cage and had the oil pressure light instantly. Went back and got the MANN. I was actually able to get the cage off the old filter, but it was so old it's got some damage from breaking them apart, and it was missing the spring. I decided not to use it. Plus it doesn't work with the MANN. How did this hold up?
My car has never had the cage and spring in the filter housing that it should have had, it was obviously lost long before my ownership. I've changed the oil in this a good few times now and only the Mann filter works perfectly - with it the oil pressure light never flickers. The Mann filter has a cage built in and it just seems to fit better and be of higher quality than the other filters. I changed the oil on Saturday and went for another Mann filter - it's the only one I trust. Use the exact filter i use in the video and you'll be grand 🙂
Hi, thank you for the video. What mileage did the car have when you removed the injectors? What symptoms were present that you decided to check the injectors?
It's a while back now, so it's hard to remember. The car had covered 165,000 miles or thereabouts. I think that there were lots of puffs of thick white smoke leading up to the injector failing and I think it ran like a tractor, i.e. it was rough and slow. It was obvious something was very wrong. It threw up faults that I could read with my code reader too. I took out all of the injectors so as that I could inspect their condition. But only one was faulty, so at €600 an injector(!) I only replaced the one. I had to get it coded into the car and this cost me another €50 at the local diesel engine specialist. But it has been running well ever since. I am aware that another injector failure is just around the corner though.
All the time, or just at idle? This video explains the 'idle' issue, If it stays on solidly, then that could be a lot more serious. I'd get that looked at professionally.
@@paulkinder5099 Oh dear, my red oil light only ever came on at idle. This was because I was using the wrong oil filter. The video explains how, by using the correct MANN filter (or by replacing the cage inside the filter assembly), you stop this light flickering. If it's on all the time and if you are spitting oil out of the exhaust, then that would suggest that oil is escaping past the piston rings. Not a good sign. I'm no expert, but it has the sound of a worn engine. I'm afraid that I can only recommend that you get that seen by a professional.
Great video. For my Auris 2l D4D 2009, I have been able to get access by the top. To be less in the dark in this area, I started to extract the plastic part at the bottom of the front windscreen + wipers arm. And finally and easely, the windscreen wippers actuator and then the metal vat below. Around 30min for this first part.. Easy acces to the alternator connectors, the top screw and extraction + introduction. From underneath the car → only 2 screws Probably possible on other model with the same engine. For the belt. I put the wrench by under and a strap locked on the front beam to maintain the pressure on the tensionner → I was alone and it's easier to put the belt correctly at the first attemp. Remove the wheel for this point. Don't hesitate to ask for more explanation.
ARRIVADERTIE..mini einstein AGA audie murphys KAHN....RITAs....BOY...PRINCE engine YASMIN.contender for President of ISRAEL.....but....Grandpaaa...Past....great grand son is...my BOY...SEAN ASTIN..MARTIN.
I managed to get it out without taking the driveshaft out. I took the bolts out the lower engine mounts and used a transmission jack to tilt the engine and it just came out 😅
Fair play. I couldn't see a way of doing it that way myself, but I'm glad you figured it out. Taking the driveshaft out wasn't too bad - as the video shows. But, I'm glad there are different solutions to the same problem. Thanks for letting me know.
I love my toyota Verso, such a reliable car. But changing the lightbulb on the drivers side (left) is the nightmare. Even with this vid im unable to fit it in. So little space around the area and I even have small hands (now cut by that shit piece of metal above the light. Fuck that, im going to the shop tomorrow.
can someone give me the correct way to install the cage & spring with the filter on a R50 original 2003 plate ? Does the spring go into the metal cap & presses the plastic cage down Any views guides would be a great help
Hi can I please ask which model verso this is? Mine is 2005 and the alternator just failed. This job looks massive but I've in the past removed wheel hubs off a small Yaris so I've a bit of similar experience - if this is the same model verso as mine I may well bite the bullet and go for it!
Hiya, I like your videos ya, bring more videos about Toyota verso, because I am one Toyota verso D4D SR, is very important for your followers too, thank you.
Just like your car, the oil filter was upside down in my wife's recently purchased Mini with a red oil light coming on below 1200 RPM when warmed up. The spring (which was still present) was also fitted in the cap, but I found that this is no longer required as it very quickly forces the central sealing core to fail and you will need to replace the oil filter again ( I tried it with the spring fitted and then without). With another new oil filter fitted (ensure the hard plastic base is at the bottom as it presses against the bypass valve) and no spring is fitted, it has now fixed the oil light now staying on and timing chain (engine noisy) is quiet now.
They were all 'bubble flares'. The tool shown in the video makes the correct flare effortlessly. The tool can be bought very easily, see: www.amazon.co.uk/Trident-413701-Brake-Pipe-Flaring/dp/B0105V0DDW/ref=asc_df_B0105V0DDW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=218092154549&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17577242322696595389&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20476&hvtargid=pla-435430783669&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
Mine has just stopped squirting water too. I'd imagine that it's clogged with dirt and a pin will clear it. I will video me fixing it and post it here.
Hi. I just service my mini cooper r50 with the crossland filter from eurocarparts and at idol the light comes on but when moving it goes off. Do you think it's the filter or the oil sensor?
The reason it flickers is because the internal cage and spring that were once inside the oil filter housing have probably been lost years ago by a careless previous owner. In my experience it is only the Mann filter described in the video that does the job that the cage used to do. When I used other brands they flickered. When I used the Mann one it doesn't. Your experience may differ, but it definitely worked and still works for me.
Thanks, but no, I don't think so. This oil light flickered all the time with the Mahle Filter. I changed to Mann about 3 years and 25,000 miles ago and no issues since. But thanks for the suggestion.
Might help more people if you take a video clearly showing the part you’re speaking of & the process. Could be a great tip but your video here doesn’t really show us anything
