I help YOU gain confidence with DIY home repair and improvement and: 🔨 Save money by doing home repair and home improvement yourself 🔨 Overcome challenging home repair situations 🔨 Create new inspiring options in your living space 🔨Do It Yourself with confidence!!
Whether you want to DIY or not, this channel is for you. From simple tasks to more complex creations, I'll cover it all.
Do you have a situation that you're challenged with? If so, please comment within a video and I will reply. I would love to hear from you.
In climates where frost / freezing occurs, you need to consider the frost line. In Michigan, code dictates a depth of 42" to avoid heaving. Really glad I found this video to see the Johnson Post and Pipe Level. My local hardware has it in stock, so I'll be picking it up in the morning! I was searching for an example of using two 2x4s to stabilize the post, but I'm thinking of following @twoalward9166's advice and just holding it in place until it sets, especially since I'll be using the Johnson Post and Pipe Level and won't need to fumble around with a standard level.
Great advice on the frost line! Those post and pipe levels were a true game changer for me… I was so happy when I found them. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do! 👍🏼👍🏼
I'm about to install 3 4x4x8 square treated wood posts and I'm glad i watched this video, it definitely pointed out some issue's with my original plan and would have cost me 💰, thank you for the perspective you've got a sub
I think your method of poring half a bag at a time is good advice. In my experience the gallon of water never seems to be all soaked up by the concrete and it sets too fast/gets too hard (for me) to poke holes in it to allow the water to flow to the bottom. I think Quikrete recommends a little less than a gallon of water per bag but I could be wrong. If doing two bags per hole than definitely do halg bag then water.
I would think you want the concrete above finished grade not 4” below. Now water is going to accumulated on top of the concrete and rot the wood out 4 inches below grade
@ReluctantDIYers maybe I don't see it 🤔 that's why I'm here lol they just installed new toilets in my complex to reduce water but there's barely any water in the bowl so you have to flush at least 4 times or clean the bowl every time someone goes #2
Help, we just put down mulch and now have tons of flies that stay on the mulch. I have no idea how to get rid of. We used Bug bgone for mosquitoes that worked but not flies. Would appreciate any suggestions
This was helpful and informative. I never knew about the 3rd option! Trying to get a doorstop that opens doors 90 degrees for an exterior inswing door we are going to buy that would open next to a special armoir.
its ok until the last part where you fill in the top part with dirt. That ground to wood contact is a problem. It's not wrong, but it's going to result in greatly reduced lifespan of the posts. as compared to another method that avoids the ground to wood contact. The post will rot quickly at this part of the post. I did this and had to pull and replace within 5 years. A better way is to use a form and wet concrete and build up the concrete 3 inches above ground with the top sloped away from post. There are at least two other videos that describe this.
Hi there! I am struggling, maybe you can help... A few months ago, I installed a long closet shelf + rod combo in my closet. It's for hanging shirts, clothes, etc. Gets heavy. And it's across the length of the closet, about 70 inches. Looked beautiful for about 6 months. Just today, it all crashed down... I'm not sure what to do, but every single drywall anchor ripped out, leaving huge holes. If I were to rebuild it, my preference would be to put the screws in pretty much the same place, because it's a tiny closet with not much room for moving things around. What's your recommended method for reinforcing the screws? Should I spackle them, try rescrewing back in? Or take the drywall down and add a wooden support to it? I can't figure out where the studs are. This is my first diy project and I thought I did such a good job. Can't believe it all crashed!
This is a GREAT question! The best way that I have found to mount these clothing rods in closets is to mount a board on each wall (aka each end of the rod), which is mounted into your studs. Then you mount your rod to those boards. This will give you a significantly stronger mounting surface. I talk about this premise in this video: Drywall Anchor ISSUES When Hanging Heavy Items on Drywall ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pug5wmddD3A.html I hope this helps! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
How long does it last the sliding mechanism ? If you use it for work every day you will open and close it thousands of times, so I do not think It will last a lot
I never see anyone do these tests/reviews with insulation in them. I guess they assume no one is going to try and hang anything on the outside walls and only on interior walls? I want to know how the insulation affects the scanning of the tool
Great question! I actually used it in the video below where the wall is full of foam insulation. Hide TV Wires Behind the Wall ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QjwW1AQEKB4.html It worked just fine. 👍🏼
1. You don't need more than an inch on either side. 1.5 times the post diameter is plenty. 2. Gravel doesn't do anything when you are using concrete... the concrete just encapsulates the gravel. 3. Yo don't need post stabilizers if you're using quick set. It only takes about a minute or two before it will stand on its own. Great video for beginners. Thank you
