My name is Steve Barton, my son Adam is the owner of Solid Rock Machine Shop Inc, located in West Michigan. I am helping him start his business, Adam provides most of the finances as he earns them and I contribute 40+ years of experience. As of this date 8/31/17 we are in the process of filing for our first patent and hopefully will be able to share it with our viewers in about 3 months if things go well. We have a few other ideas that I believe we can patent and produce, this is the direction we want to go with Solid Rock. If it does not work out we can fall back on job shop work, but we would rather be able to make a product to sell. Together we are teaching his younger brothers and sisters the trade.
One of the best tools in a shop if you know when you need it and how to use it properly. (Stand clear when the new guy tries truing up the wheel with a diamond point on the mag for the first time. You can tell him and show him a million times, but until he throws it off the mag plate on his own for putting it on the wrong side of rotation, he won't get it. LOL Get someone on there that knows how to manage/predict heat and properly spark it out towards the end, the results are beautiful.
I waiting on a ?norton wheel. It’s silicon carbide, 60 grit, non porous, J hardness. It’s rated, by Norton for Bronze; Natural Stone; 300 Series Stainless; Aluminum; Brass; Titanium; Gray Iron; Masonry; Copper. I’ve never tried this before, so it should. E an interesting experience. I really mostly want it for cast iron, but I’m going to be trying g it on the other substances as well. I’m particularly curious as to how it works with stone as I wasn’t expecting that to be in the list.
Since that edge is so fine, how quickly does it wear? We depend on the thickness of the wheel when normally grinding to make up for the wear on the front edge. There doesn’t seem to be anything to compensate for that wear when side grinding, something I’ve rarely done.
I just caught your channel recently, so I’m trying to watch them in the order I need them rather than just starting at one. I must have missed something, but with the cheap diamond points for sharpening available these days, I was wondering why you couldn’t use that to level the surface, even if you wear a couple of them out.
Thanks so much for posting this video; the time it took is appreciated. Did you fabricate that knurling tool yourself? I like how it isn't resists twisting.
I just grind right on center but my fixture is always set square. Ground some D2 punches recently on a harig head and no problem with taper. Stamping mylar so shot for 0.0001 a side clearance on punch guide and 0.0002 on die. Next time i find a little taper i will try going off center but don't think it matters much if care is taken to get fixture square. I was grinding a form with 2 different size radiuses and 2 flats. If I'm off center tangent points will be off so going off center in that situation would be bad. Nice video and ty.
First off thank you for the time and quality you and your family put into these videos. I realize this is an old post, but I'm hoping it might still get a response. As a hobbyist and rookie to grinding what wheel might be appropriate for surfacing a small mag chuck if NO coolant was available. Only hoping to achieve "reasonable tolerances" nothing like what you are producing!
I would go with a 46H porous wheel. Normally I would not use porous wheels on the mag but heat is going to be your greatest enemy here so the porous wheel will help a lot with that. Light cuts no more than .0003" and redress after 2 passes (.0006"). Finish cuts no more than .0001" and blank passes.
Hello! Did you find a solution for your surface grinder problem? I have the exact same machine, bought brand new. It´s capable of very accurate work and true mirror finish from certain angles. Problem is that when light hits in the "wrong" angle the surface finish looks like crap. Like a tractor tire pattern. Even the factory table grind looks bad in the same way. Impossible to get a UNIFORM surface finish, rough or fine! Niclas from Sweden
No. Johnny had to trade it in for a Hydrophilic Acer. The Acer is great. In the past I liked Chevalier grinders but will never by another new one after the bad experience with this machine. I will never recommend them to anyone again and warn others to stay away from this company.
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc Ah, ok! I suspect something is wrong with the spindle on these machines(?). I have tried everything from dynamic balancing of wheels to special suspension of coolant hose to prevent vibration transfering from the pump. Adjusting Z-axis ways... It´s very frustrating because the machine grinds extremely flat and accurate, but not as pretty as one would like. Thank you for your answer!
@@niclascarlsson4150 We tried everything I could think of to fix it to no avail. I was getting a better finish at .005" depth of cut on my Acer than we could at .0001 depth of cut on this machine. And the Acer cut was 10 times better in on the profilometer. There was an extra coupling in the tool box that I never seen ship with a machine before and when Johnny received the machine that back spindle guard was removed which lead me to believe they tried to fix it before and yet sold it to Johnny as a new machine.
I have been on the surface grinding field for a long time... But today's video taught me some important lessons.... Great video with great information.... Grab Love from your new Subscriber Suneel Kanda from India Uttar Pradesh Agra The City of Taj Mahal
I use the same technique to grind the sides with surface grinder, It's the best idea to grind with perfection... Grab Love from your Subscriber Suneel Kanda from India Uttar Pradesh Agra The City of Taj Mahal
Hi Steve, when you are measuring how round the part was on the surface plate, do you use the same method to identify taper in the part? Is finding the high spot at each point a valid comparison or is the part in the fixture not parallel to the surface plate?
Yes, this will show taper also. When measuring the part in the fixture you are checking the roundness of the part to the centers. If the centers in the part are not perfect they can hide the true roundness of the part.
The Indi-Square is nice in that it can travel up and down and check the whole surface of a part not just at point of contact like the Squareness Comparator checker. It is very accurate but not as much as the Squareness Comparator checker. To check the whole surface with the Squareness Comparator checker you have one more step involved. You need to check the flatness and parallel of the surface first. If it is flat and parallel then you know the whole surface is square even at a single point of contact. I use them both.
The diamond stone for dressing the wheel should it not be on a slight angle like maybe 15° so you can rotate it all the time to keep a clean edge. Otherwise won’t the diamond develop a flat spot?
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc oh ok. Hmmm. I’m not sure what I have then. I assume if you look at it if it looks like it’s fragmented pieces together then I won’t have to rotate it but if it looks like it’s one piece, then put it on an angle.?
A single point diamond has only one diamond in it but a cluster diamond has many diamond in it. Mine usually have seven smaller separate diamonds. What you are describing sounds like a "grit dresser" which is used for CBN wheels. It has many very small diamonds embedded in a metallic base which looks like a single unit. @@TheZakkmylde
Right now I am way behind due to same health issues for the last 4 years. Things are looking better now and I can do some work in the shop. I have 2 almost done and 10 in the machining stage. They are all spoken for but I am sure there will be some cancellations due the wait. I can out you on a long waiting list if you like. You can contact me here solidrock@nlbchapel .org. Do not put the space after nlbchapel. It is there because of bot harvesting. Steve
22:50 - What about buying a used Brown & Sharpe Micromaster surface grinder? Would that be most likely out of spec? Thanks. 27:25 - Jeeze talking 25-50 millionths of inch here.
Buying a used surface grinders is a throw of the dice. You may be getting a great deal or you may be buying an expense machine that will let you down. If possible bring a a few pieces of steel the same thickness and place them at different spots on the mag chuck and grind them to the same thickness. Check to see if they measure the same and without taper. If it passes that test you may have a good one.
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc Thank you sir for the reply. By far the most helpful information I have learned. I will take this advice. Also do you have any recommendations where would be a good place to find a low priced used reliable surface grinder?
42:56 - Tenth a half for $2,500 Moore Jig Grinder... not bad. I believe these grinders have a max accuracy / tolerances of 2 tenths, so this means you have got them spot on when getting results of 1-2 tenths.
I can compensate in the set up. So far I am happy with it. Used Jig Grinders are cheap in today's world. I have a friend who picked up one in way better shape than mine for under $50 at an auction. It was a moore #3 if I remember right.
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc Thanks you for the reply. It’s good to know you’re still active in RU-vid. Your videos are cutting edge and inspirational. I am in the market to get one, but have no clue where to find one for a good price. $50? Wow, lucky guy. Have any recommendations where I could buy one? Thanks.
I have seen good Moore #3 for about 8K jest for doing a google search in the past. You are talking about Jig Grinders right? Also, machine auctions are a good place.@@sto2779
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc Thanks for the reply. Yes, it is about Moore Jig Grinders #3. Right now I see every where not less than $5K. I found one on Facebook Marketplace, being sold for $3,500 but the seller told me that the upper unit is from model #2 and bottom is from model #3, which I find weird, two different models into one unit.
We used a Norton Norbide stick back in my days at Talon as a tool and die maker to feather the wheel. Gave a nice cross cut. I remember dressing wheels down below a 0.100 thousandths and dropping slots in punches and holding .0001 tolerances. Mostly Zipper die tooling. Uses a Parker grinder. You did have to watch the fingers and be pretty confident on a surface grinder.
I spent most of my working career in deep drawn stamping. Work on a lot of press tooling in those days. Before hard turning we did a lot of profile grinding.
I've been following you for Mabey 4 to 5 years now. I've been able to apply the knowledge I've learned from your channel in home guarge. It's truly a great feeling. Thank-you.
Steve, when getting a new (used) machine that includes a chuck, should you true to bottom of the chuck as a matter of course? I have heard that it is best practice.
Check out this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lHXeA9_9UAw.html Just don"t place your left hand on the unit like he does in the video. Those are nice units, I have used them many times and like them a lot.
This guy and the old man from Surburban tool have both made some of the most informative videos i have seen on RU-vid. I disagree with them at times but their videos are a huge step above most videos on grinding. TY
