A place to store all the changes and maintenance I do to my bikes, cars and show that we all don't need a garage to work on our bikes. I do all the work on my driveway using simple hand tools.
Hi, I guess you were pumping the brake and opening the bleed valves with the handlebars in different positions. I am having a hell of a job bleeding the brakes on my BMW R65 after replacing the brake lines and master cylinder piston and also the piston seals. Thanks
Yes, lots of pumping and bleeding while the handlebars were in different positions and I also did some with it on the main stand and some when the bike was on the side stand to get the last bits out.
Thanks, there are spoked wheels that are for the r that are the same size as the rs wheels if you don’t want to upset the bikes geometry. I just couldn’t find sound at a price I liked and figured the gs and r share a subframe so the geometry change should be fine.
My experience was the ground connection of the sender failed. This provides ground/negative to the fuel pump. Solution was cheap and reliable: I made a new ground connection attached to one of the plate four bolts to the main ground on chassis (very near). Add a faston male-female on the middle of the wire to easily detach the fuel tank from the bike.
Yep near as damn it. It varies depending on how hot the oil was and if it all flowed out really well. I think the manual specs 2.3l ish for a completely dry engine and around 1.9ish for no filter change too.
Ohh man thats a lot of work for just changing airfilter and plugs.. İ cant belive it. I just bought my versys 2weeks ago. Before i had a bmw boxer. So easy to do such works. Now i do understand why travellers ride bmw GS
Funny that, I've sold the Versys as I don't commute any more and I use my Boxer R1100R for most fun days out. A real joy to work on that for most things.
@@nogaragerequiredmy first big bike was a R1150R roadster.. That was a lovely bike.. But i made a mistake and sold it after 1 riding because i wasnt enough experienced for that bike.
Thanks for posting! I have a 2004 with leaking seals. I will be tackling them soon. Did change the fork oil? If so, what oil did you use and how much per fork? Thanks!
Since the fork oil is just for lubricant ion not part of the damping I just topped it up to replace the little that dripped out. I think it was about 5ml I added back. I’ll have to check from the book what fork oil I used.
Nice effort! Correct me if I'm wrong, but the R1100R front wheel has floating brake discs, the GS wheels has fix discs, that makes your calipers incompatible with the new wheels. I hope you ride safe.
Thanks for the information especially the link to the PDF diagram but the actual video is useless (NO Offence) you can't see what you are doing because it's out of shot.
I know this is old video and but may help someone else later. When you lift your tank on these boxers threse's pretty high chance you accindentally lift right hand side throttle cable from it's seat on throttlebody end and it can cause this issue too after replacing pump and filter.
Real pity about the brake lock up and damage. Glad it wasn't any worse damage to yourself. I'll be interested to know what you find in the braking system.
Wow that's brutal! Not that much damage though and sounds like the MOT centre were overall pleased with what you'd done to the bike. Yeah a few more hours of work but in the grand scheme of things I'd say overall plenty of positives to take. Most importantly, you're ok! Hope you can get it fixed it soon. Namaste. P.S. Plenty of Facebook motorcycle forums out there would be interested in all your content. Well worth searching a few out & posting some links imho.
It's claimed to increase the power as the exhaust gasses aren't recirculating thorough. It'll be a negligible amount but for me it was done as I missing half the EGR system.
That's a basic essential of this procedure, plus getting it up to temperature before doing the work he mentions taking it for a ride beforehand, but it needs to be emphasised that the engine must be warm. Then of course there's having it running too long on tickover. ,I'd also mention the goal is 1100 rpm idle speed.
It does however the one in the bike had issues and rather than try and resolve them I went for a quick fix of a different engine. It was cheaper than hunting down the parts needed to fix the one installed.
That's what the manual suggests and so I follow that process. I know some do the slack with a weight to simulate the rider but I've not had any issues.
What would you do if the readings were out at 3,000 rpm where the idle fuel/air screws have no effect? The idle and 3k rpm are adjusted separately by different means. At 3,000 rpm you use the throttle body cable stops to synchronise the throttle bodies. The idle screws are set by turning them in to a stop, gently and then each out 1 1/2 turns. Idle balance and idle rpm is set by minor adjustments of same screws.
if it helps, on my r1100r the steering turns nice and light on the stand and as you increase speed the dampening effect kicks in and you start feeling a strong resistance. unfortunately i think yours is a "Ex steering damper". I Hope you manage to rebuild it, that would be interesting to see.
I know how hard it is to do decent videos, but when you are testing them it would be wonderful to see what you are doing instead of just looking at your strippers your heat gun and your boxes of connections. I appreciate the effort though.
You're the first person I have ever seen that tightens the left side, locks it down, and then goes to the right side. All other videos show adjusting both sides with equal turns and ten locking them down together. I tried it your way and it works very well. Thanks for the video!
Just what I was looking for! Thanks so much for taking the time and putting out the effort to make this video and post it. It was very helpful for me. David
Cheers, as soon as I can justify another parking permit I’m getting a R53 to keep my wife’s R50 company. I’ve been ‘borrowing’ hers quite a lot this past winter.
@@nogaragerequired I think it might be a good time to buy one. I bought my R53 last week for £2000. 3 owners, less than 80,000 miles, service history, 2 keys, owners pack etc. And, IMO, the best colour - Electric Blue with white roof 😎 I bought the Mini One last summer. It was my first car for 16 years, and only the 3rd car I’ve owned. I’ve always been into 2 wheels - Motorbikes and bicycles, but I loved the Mini so much I decided to upgrade to the S. They’re almost as much fun as a motorcycle! And after owning Ducatis for over 20 years, the potential cost of keeping an R53 on the road doesn’t really concern me either. I few years ago I paid £1800 for a full service on a 748R! No repairs, just a service. And I did some of it myself! To add to my pain, it got written off by a dozy driver less than 6 months later. I recently bought another one. They’re sought after now, and I could literally have bought 6 R53s for the price I paid for it and had change left over for a full service on the Mini! 😮
The seat is a adjustable underneath. There is a braket you can move to change the height slightly. This might be why you have a small gap behind the seat. 👍 Just watched to the end and you know about the bracket, sorry!
