You've found a recent take on the classic 1927 "Bauhaus" chair. Almost 100 years later it still looks modern, the sign of a design classic. Many have been made and yours was sold by Habitat in the 80s flat-packed for home assembly. They cost about £20 in the 1980s, they also came with arms for a bit more money. Nice job, you'd have done better to work on the seat and back on a work bench. Don't use a hammer to bash in the cane, use the edge of one of your wedges under the hammer to avoid pushing the cane in too far and marking or denting it. Also use a sharp Stanley knife to trim off the excess rattan, taking care to keep hands out of the way. But well done on restoring a classic.
They look really cool, but just out of curiosity what function do the blue and yellow windows serve? I have never owned a book case like that, or really seen one until this video.
Thank you for the kind words! The windows have no functional purpose as it relates to holding the book. They simply are artistic elements of the design.
I had a really good teacher in my exchange institution who taught me everything I know about bookbinding. I’ve used some elements of that during my bachelor, and this video inspired me to implement more in the upcoming masters course. Thank you!
Ah yes, that ol thing? I have no idea what the material inside is (hopefully not lead) but it is quite dense and almost certainly metalloid. Two thin layers of brushed suede are sewn around it. Feels very nice in the hand. Thank you for inquiring, viewer.
I find myself once again with the pleasure of observing what it takes to create a masterpiece at the hands of Bounty Archive. In just 16 short minutes, the detailed shots take us on a journey, accompanied by the sounds of mechanical tooling, paper texture, and organic precision. We find ourselves asking not “what if,” but “how?” The international travels to far lands bring back knowledge that we all wish to attain and practice through hours of experimental, yet tested bookbinding techniques. This dedication to craft is evident in what we witness on this RU-vid page. As the glue adheres to the variety of textured surfaces displayed in the video, we come to understand a simple truth: great work is achieved through constant improvement. Success is measured not in quantity, but in quality. Thumbs up from me on this one.
Not bad but, fabric should go on after headbands at the spine and then the sides on top of end pages not on top of the first and last page. Headbands in line with text block not above. Fold fabric on board cover head and bottom first, press down corners 3 mm excess and then glue the sides. (that's from bookbinders pro). Like the Cricut title, neat.
If you make it so it's more liquidy it fills the gaps way better, and it hardens the same. That's what I've been doing lately. It looks more like muddy water when I mold it, but they come out clean af.
@@bountyarchive Yes. It's been years since I did this, but if I recall correctly it's probably best to do it that way. You just have to make sure the wood is well fitted into the window, and the right thickness, because if it's not, one of two things can happen: 1, it's too thin and it will just kinda float in there and won't press well; or 2, it's too thick (or too small for the opening) and the corners of the window can wrinkle a bit. You can also use thick card, if it's thick enough.
Thank you very much for the nice words! This project took about 4 days, with a lot of extra time for filming (moving the camera etc.) With a clear schedule this project would take about 2 days!
How many times do you think you could use the mold before it starts to lose detail? I’m thinking of creating embossed, tessellated pavers for the yard, and I am looking for the best mold material that won’t break down quickly and will maintain the detail.
I would expect this material to work great for your project. If you are making lots of pavers, I would recommend making a large mold with maybe a few different shapes. Making a few pavers at a time would really speed-up your project. I have no doubts about the durability of this material, but if you intend to make many pavers, then having thicker walls on your mold will be a good idea.
You should be using a 1/8" chisel cutting out spline along the length of the groove. Levering it out perpendicular to the groove only damages the wood frame. And get a small mallet. Damaging the frame even more with that hammer. You are going to slice yourself using a single edge blade. This is what utility knives are for. One more thing, you only cut out the excess cane after the spline is set and the glue dried... slicing the outside edge with a utility knife. Again, causing more damage to the frame.
I remember the fruit sticker project from a while back. Happy to see they now have a beautiful home. The rubber band has to be the iciest detail I've ever seen, my god.
Yo idk how to explain this but im struggling with the pieces that like bend in on the ramp?? Howd you make the pieces flush to the sides and to the ground?
