@ONETimothy2.12-14 summit racing headers, 2½" duals, x-pipe, street max mufflers (magnaoflow knockoffs) Thanks!!! It was very quiet at first but deepened up after a few hundred miles.
@jdbas71 Thanks brother very cool. I've not been a fan of the magnaflows. Might have been the series mufler or those street max' sound different. Some setups drown out the cam yours is right on 👍🏻
That tach you have fits perfectly in the center hole of your dash. I cut the clear lens of the cluster so the tach slipped in, on my '71. The outer lip of the tach will catch the black part of the cluster. The look was pretty clean.
I know with a crush sleeve you should do a few complete rotations before you take your reading to ensure the bearings are parallel and there aren't any bind points, so they start tighter and loose a bit with a few turns. Did you see this also with the crush sleeve eliminator?
I used the NCR80E harness from eBay. It basically hot wires the transmission so you have to manually shift it and a switched ground for the lockup converter. Would be nice if it shifted auto but $100 compared to $800....
Man that cams sounds way tamer and way more street friendly than the 248/248 @.050" .605" lift 110 LSA 294S comp cam in the 445 stroker in my dads 64 galaxie. That thing shakes like a bitch at idle no matter what. What are you getting for vacuum at idle with that cam? thing sounds great!
Thanks! In gear, I only have about 7hg. Vacuum brakes are kinda stiff at idle. Totally fine once cruising. Most of the idle quality is because I recurved the distributor to limit the curve. With vacuum advance unhooked it idles around 18°. With the vacuum advance hooked up it idles around 26°.
@@jdbas71 Yeah that's about what the 445 stroker has for vacuum, 6-8hg in gear at about 800 RPM and also running 18-19* base timing. Tried running manifold vacuum with the vac advance as a cheat for more base timing when running and it's just not consistent enough so its on ported vac. It runs really smooth with the vacuum can pulled all the way to full advance with a handheld vacuum pump that's for sure lol.
@@Coronet_shop Yeah, can't go wrong with either but if you were buying a bottom end for one the stroker kit is the better deal than buying a used crank and rods and having it all reconditioned.
That is a healthy cam for the street. I have a 242/248 @ .050, .585 in a 427 sbc in a 73 corvette, manual transmission. I wouldn't go any bigger personally. It is already scary as hell:-)
I have a question I’m really hoping you can help me out.Now you torqued the pinion nut to a 170 ft lbs. If you were to torque it to say 250 ft lbs the preload would increase and make it tighter. Does it really not matter if it’s torqued to 170 or 300 ft lbs as long as the preload is correct? I’ve been working on mine and trying to grasp that part of it.
If using the crush sleeve eliminator you can torque it to your spec and the preload should stay the same. Double check the preload with an in/lb torque wrench to verify.
If your using a regular crush sleeve, the preload will increase with torque. If you over torque, you could over do the preload. That's why I went with the eliminator. No parts stores local to me carried the crush sleeve I needed. If was to mess one up I would of had to wait on another so I just went with the eliminator.
@@jdbas71thank u for the quick reply I’m working with a crush eliminator. I torqued it initially to 150 ft lbs and it was only a few inch lbs.so then I torqued it to 250 and it was to to tight.I backed the nut off a little and retorqued it to 200 ft lbs and the preload was in spec.So why when it’s a solid spacer does torque still determine the preload spec ?
No such thing as too much cam, just means ya need more of everything else. I've ran 290@.050 .800 lift solid roller cams & 13-1 compression rowdy bigblocks that I drove to work everyday. All depends on how much ya can deal with. That truck appears pretty mild and totally drivable. Probably get 15-20mpg.
Shall it work in this= Using in 392 c.i. SBC TH350 3800 stall nitrous converter very tight part throttle. 2nd gen F body. Cal tracs. 15X12. Promaxx project X215 heads ported with 2.10" valve. 4.040" Bore unshrouding valve with notch. 11:1 compression. Dominator 1050 cfm dual circuit. Was going to use XR288HR on 108 LSA, now want to use this cam or Mike Jones big lift hard cam and roller lifters. It is a daily driver bumper to bumper traffic. With some minor offroad, and 1/4 mile usage.
I don't commute in traffic with this truck but drive it almost every day. I have driven it to bigger cities in bumper-to-bumper traffic and it does great. Haven't seen a track yet with this engine because our local track is closed. I'd bet it would run real good in your combo
With those parts, you need a cam with 270 to 280@.050, 650+ lift range and a 106 lobe separation. Solid roller of course. Takes a whole lot of SBC to utilize a Dominator. A hydraulic roller in that combo would be a waste of parts.
Funny you mention that. I have a 5.3 on the stand that's finally ready for assembly. Mild little forged piston, btr cam, Holley terminator setup. Just gotta finish the Barnbird 1st.
Personally I love that truck and the way it runs. I don't think the cam is too big. I run a big cam in my bigblock 55. It cruises at about 2700 at 70 and I'm okay with that. Seems like the sweet spot for my engine. Early 70s 400 turbo and 373s.
Thanks!! It really does seem like a decent, streetable combo. So many people have told me that it's too much cam for the street or too much for a pickup. I really think it drives nice around town, gets 12ish mpg on the freeway at 80ish mph and will blow the tires off at will. What more could a guy want. Smiles per miles!!!
I thought the first thing you do when looking for a transmission in a junk yard was to drop the pan and inspect everything before you even think about removing the transmission
@@jdbas71 Usually because of how the fuel line connects that lump right there doesn't let most air cleaners set down on the carb without a spacer.🤷 Glad his works on it.😎👍
@fryloc359 If the tune up is off and it's a bear to drive, as in brakes are stiff af and you gotta work the throttle to get it go without stalling, it takes the fun of daily driving out of it. But if the tunes spot on, it runs silky smooth, it's reasonably quiet and has creature comforts then that's totally different story.
I'm putting together a 350 for it right now. Some worked over camel hump heads and a 268 lunati cam. Would love to build something hot for it in the future but, just using stuff I have lying around and getting it back on the road. I have a videos up of when the car came out and where is it now. Thanks for watching!!!!!!
Yes, the driver side mount is missing the bolt and it broke the passenger side. Also ended up breaking the trans mount. I'd say that's why his transfer case shifter is all out of whack.
It can't be that big if you set the red line @ 5,000 rpm. Yes I know it's a 383 but a 2019 Charger 392 is larger but redline @ 6,000 rpm. What gear ratio?
The cam company says 28-6600 rpm. That little red slider gets moved around all the time as I don't have a working speedometer at the moment. I have a rev limiter set around 6200.
Silly question but what’s the fuel mileage like with a big hogging ass cam like that? I feel like what’s stopping most people from running a big cam is the idle quality and the fuel economy, I’m looking to ls swap a ranger for a fun daily type build but I’m worried sick that if I put a cam with 220+ on the intake lobe it’s gonna drop fuel economy hard and I really don’t need a daily that gets 5 miles per gallon
That's a great question! On the interstate, I've averaged about 12.5mpg between 80-85 mph. My old Goodwrench 350 without overdrive averaged 10mpg at 60-65mph. Totally shocked the crap out of me. I've calculated mileage 3 times filling up and driving about 70 miles back to town, then topping off again. It would probably do better but there are 3 or 4spots of road construction on the way home and I like the way it will just walk TF away from traffic on the interstate. I would like to get an air/fuel ratio gauge to be able to dial in the fuel mileage.
@johnpopoff7950 I can't believe this stroker gets better mileage than the Goodwrench. Maybe it's the overdrive, maybe it's because it makes double the power. Either way, 3mpg or 13mpg I'm still gonna drive it.
Yes I have to shift it manually. It has a 4l80e overdrive transmission from a 2006 express van. The electronic transmission without an expensive computer won't shift on its own. I used a NCR80E controller from eBay that basically just hot wires the electronics in the valve body making it full manual, full pressure all the time. It was around $100 compared to $800 for a controller to make the transmission shift. I also lost the use of the speedometer when I swapped in this transmission because the electronic trans had a signal wire vs a cable drive for the speedo.
@toddyfranky4867 I modified the factory shifter linkage to work. I had to take about ¾" section from the piece that goes from the frame to the side of the trans. I also had to move that piece further down the frame rail to line up with the 4l80e. I then just extended the shift rod about 4" to line back up. Everything works as it should. All the detents are right where they need to be except 1st gear. 1st gear still has a detent spot but drops down past 1st on the shift indicator. I've been thinking about making a video kind of highlighting what it took to install that transmission. At first, I thought it was gonna be a pain in the arse but.... turned out it wasn't that bad. The worst part of the swap was the custom crossmember I built to clear the new exhaust.
@@jdbas71 They make converter boxes to make your speedo work, been waiting for them to get cheaper . My t56 is the same way. I just figure 30 40 and 65 by the tach,
Thanks!!! All in the tune-up. When I 1st got it running it idled like a dying pig. Was way rich, and wouldn't idle much under 1300rpm. Some timing curve adjustment and some carb tuning smoothed it out. It turned out to be a very friendly cruiser.
