@@dokutaaguriin thank you for commenting

@@ash9658 g’day Ash, the nutrient solution is in a 200 litre drum, buried behind the garage. I maintain the EC around 1.8 -2.2. If the plants are using lots of water I might need to add water to keep the EC in the ballpark. The nutrient is changed every two to three weeks. I check the pH every day and adjust if needed with a small amount of phosphoric acid, usually the pH rises bit by bit as the nutrient is used by the plants. Best regards to you.

@@hydroponicsbybrianbullock2488 Thanks for sharing!

@@ash9658 thank you

@@billyhookham they did a great job of making it look greater

@@thearkedcrown moving the nutrient solution through a pump impeller oxygenates the nutrient solution, and passes the solution over and through the expanded clay media, also cooling the media and solution. I prefer it as a method. Others like an airstone,

@@billyhookham thanks mate.

@@user-gh8wt2zi2n the sweetcorn grows really well in this flood and drain system, and in recirculating Dutch buckets. Large flavoursome cobs.

@@geethanjaliStories I cut a small piece of plastic card and glue into the end of the pipe to keep the nutrient solution ok even with the bottom of the net pots.

Thank you, best regards 😊

Thank you! Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed it, I’ll keep growing and posting.

G’day, it would depend on the quality of your bore water. Certainly I shouldn’t think it would be an issue in Morley. Do you have iron staining, or is your bore iron free?

@@hydroponicsbybrianbullock2488 it’s iron staining unfortunately

@@BamFang hmmm, I’m not sure. Perhaps it would be fine. You could do a trial system and see how it grows.

I use my own hydroponic nutrient, “Strawberry Perfect.”

A few aphids I see. Treating them with spinosad.

Thank you for commenting Dazzer.

G’day, thanks for dropping by. To avoid root rot the pipe system runs non stop. In running the pump non stop the nutrient solution is at a constant temperature and oxygenated at all times. Root rot develops in warm stagnant solution. In warmer weather keeping the nutrient temperature between 22 - 25 C is best. Bury the reservoir, larger reservoirs are better. Add hydrogen peroxide into the nutrient solution when changing nutrients and when planting new crops and in hot weather every three days. I like to grow bigger plants in 20 litre Dutch buckets. If you need bigger it’s possible to use 100 litre or 200 litre drums to grow hydroponic plants in. I hope this information helps you. Any questions please ask. Have a great day.

@@hydroponicsbybrianbullock2488 Thanks for the help :) Just out of curiosity, around what sowing density was used for the corn? I have received mixed results online and am not quite sure what an optimal density would be for a flood-and-drain system. In addition, what was the initial cost of your system?

@@thoworn817 10 - 12” spacing on the sweetcorn which gives 24 plants into the bed. All of the plants produced two cobs, a couple of the plants produced three cobs. The systems were built using mostly free or recycled materials and pipe. The flood and drain tray was given to me. $70.00 for the 1/4” gravel. Timber frame stand was from recycled wood that I got from an industrial area waste. The pump and digital timer were about $65.00. All up I would have spent no more than $1000.00 over time to build my initial garden. That lasted 6 years. Now I’ve upgraded to the tunnelhouse which cost $1300.00, and about $2000.00 to fit it out with steel stands, fans, new pumps and fittings.

G’day Pablo, yes this greenhouse should be a really fine growing space. It’ll be great to keep the rain from diluting the nutrients and also add a few degrees of temperature during winter. I hope yours turns out great. 👍 I used 2” x 2” galvinised steel mesh as the shelving material. With the indeterminate tomatoes I’ll move the rope up the tunnel towards the front door as I lean the stem down, and try to keep the stems off the floor to prevent disease or damage. Eventually I’ll change the tomato for a different variety. Until then I’ll grow them lower and method. Happy growing mate.

All looking good

No worries, I’m not a filmmaker, I’m a horticulturist, sorry bout that.

Pretty much what you wrote Sir. I am aiming to teach people how to grow fresh healthy vegetables and fruits at home, even without a garden.

The poly weave cover I’m not sure of. I’m using 50% density shadecloth over the top of it as the weather has still been very hot in Perth. The industry standard is 50% density I believe. When I get home in May I’ll remove the shadecloth, and run without it during winter. Then once it warms up, I’m thinking to paint the poly tunnel with lime, and add the shadecloth over once the weather heats up. When I was working in a nursery we used to paint the tunnelhouses with lime in late spring, it fades and wears off over time. And by winter rains was gone. I’ll try that on this system. Thanks for stopping by. Best regards to you and your garden.

G’day Pablo I built the stands using 1” galvinised pipe and fencing clamps. I got the materials from a fencing supplier.

Thanks mate. I’ll try see if I can source any. I like how sturdy it looks

@@qpl88 yes, will last forever, and can be dismantled and changed or moved.

The flood cycles will depend on the media used to grow the plants in. The more coarse the media the larger the pore spaces between the individual particles. I’ve found with 5mm (1/4”) gravel flooding four times a day gives great results. Flood and drain works by filling the bed almost to the top, pushing all of the air out. Then draining, drawing fresh air into the root zone. Leaving a meniscus of nutrient solution on the roots and media. Then before the roots dry out and start to die, the flooding occurs again, on repeat. I’ve also grown flood and drain in expanded clay media, flooding every hour, as the media is more coarse, more frequent flooding is required. In watering plants in soil, some of the soil particles hold water, clay, loam, organic matter all hold water. We have cacti and succulents that only get watered once or twice a week.

“Strawberry Perfect” my own fertiliser. EC 1.8-2.2 pH 5.8-6.2 I change the nutrient solution every two to three weeks.

G’day, well after six years of growing in my systems I wanted to upgrade to a tunnelhouse to exclude the rain in winter, increase temperatures in winter for tomatoes and probably peppers. Hopefully in summer I’ll be able to shade and cool the tunnelhouse. Also I’ve finally dug a hole and buried the reservoir which should cool the nutrient solution in summer. I’ll keep walking this track, and update growth when I can. Happy growing.

Thank you for subscribing. The tunnel is planted now. I’ll post some updates soon.

@@hydroponicsbybrianbullock2488 Thank you 😊

G’day, springtime temperatures around 11 C to 20 C ( 51 f to 76 f )

G’day, no links sorry I’m using Aqua one 104 pumps mostly. They are pretty cheap, seem to last a couple of years.

@@hydroponicsbybrianbullock2488thanks for the early reply I truly appreciated

@@BLUNTGAMINGCHANNEL you’re welcome, it’s Saturday afternoon here now, and we are just having a restful day.

@@hydroponicsbybrianbullock2488sounds amazing you are inn the future is 3:30 am here. anyways. do you use any bigger pumps for any ibc system in case you have one?

@@BLUNTGAMINGCHANNEL yeah I think I’ve a bigger pump in an aquaponic system, maybe an aqua one 105 pump. This month I’m hoping to get a poly tunnel built and redo my systems. Bury the reservoir and run everything using a 3000 litre per hour pump. There’s a downside to that in that if the one pump quits or malfunctions everything can run out of nutrient solution at once. I guess I’ll see how it goes. Have a great weekend.

Looking now Dressy. Yes a good established large plant such as a zucchini, tomato etc will probably follow the return pipe and may block it. I have a 3” net pot inside to keep the stones clear of the drain, and I drill out the drain hole to about 19mm (.748”). I use a short piece of 19mm poly pipe from the drain fitting to the elbow into the return pipe so that if the water backs up and the Dutch bucket floods due to roots blocking the pipe it’s easy to remove and using a piece of 1/2” poly pipe I can shove that up into the fitting on the bucket to clear the roots.

@@hydroponicsbybrianbullock2488 Thank you, Brian. I will take a look this weekend. Thank you for showing off your wonderful garden - it is my inspiration 🙂

@@dressydressy6246 thanks very much for looking and the comment. End of summer here, just about to change over to autumn crops. I’ll update the tear down and replant. Keep growing fresh food.

I make it. I sell it myself. I can post it Australia wide.

Yes sweetcorn will grow well in a bucket, plant two or three or four plants in each container.

G’day yeah it’s been hot here for sure. Too hot for lettuce which bolt to seed in temperature over 35c. If you can cool the nutrient solution it helps plants survive. Strawberries definitely like the cooler months, springtime.

G’day, thank you , well some of the garden has 50% density shade cloth over it. The rest is in full sun. Yea it’s getting hot here now, last week was a heatwave up in the 40’s C (110f). Ideally I need to build a poly tunnel. Bury the reservoir, shade the reservoir, keep the nutrient solution cycling, add frozen bottles to the reservoir, adding 2ml of 50% concentration hydrogen peroxide every three days to add and extra oxygen molecule to the nutrient solution is about all. My lettuces bolted straight to seed as it’s too hot for them (above 35C). Tomatoes, chillies, melons, onions seem to grow fine in the heat.