Thanks for this. I am currently doing head gasket and timing on a 2009 outback. I want to replace the valves seals and lap the valves. I looked at the rocker assembly and was like well thats different than what I am used to.... lol.. So off to look for a video. Service manual can only tell you so much. Its nice sometimes to see a video. Thanks again!
I appreciate that you made this video and please take this comment as a constructive criticism. This is not the correct way to remove and replace the intake rocker shaft and is more difficult than doing it the correct way. There are 2 torsion springs on each intake shaft that should be unloaded before removing the bolts. Another video shows using a 4mm socket and extension to accomplish this in place of the Subaru Special Service Tool. With the torsion springs unloaded you are not fighting the VVT intake rockers to get back into position. Doing it this way makes it easier to keep the little pistons between the rockers oriented properly during assembly. Once the bolts for the intake rocker shaft are run down retensioning the torsion springs is not that difficult.
Thank you for clarifying that. I'm by no means an experienced auto mechanic. I feel my way around most mechanical things through common sense and that sometimes means I don't know the correct way but rather just a way that happens to work. Thanks for commenting. It's truly appreciated!
I don't remember specifically what brand they were but I do know they were "MLS" or multi layer steel and I ordered them from Rock Auto. There are some major brands like Six Star that I'm sure work well and are very dependable. I didn't spend a lot on the ones I got. They were pretty much mid-grade.
Have seen a few videos on this. Yours went together alot easier than others. I have done these a few times and never been as easy as yours went together.
Can you do an update on this for the Great Lakes, specifically Grand Traverse Bay. Looking to buy the reveal charts but wanted to see how detailed it was for my region. Thanks
No problem at all. What kind of fishing do you do in that area? I don't have much experience on the big lake aside from a little time I've spent on Sturgeon Bay and the Oconto area. It's pretty overwhelming being on that big of water!
@@kish-river It is a great and diverse fishery. In the shallows you have some of the best smallmouth bass fishing in Michigan. In the deep waters you have a great Lake Trout, Salmon and Steelhead fishery. Usually concentrate in the shallows, up to about 40 feet for smallies, then in the 80 to 120 foot range for lakers and salmon and Cisco in the fall. Spend the majority of my time jigging for Lakers
Using primarily Navionics right now but without depth shading i really think that Reveal will be much better for jigging and trolling. Just switched to a Lowrance Elite Ti2 9 late this summer.
I don't. But I'm sure you'd be able to find one somewhere like Ebay perhaps. I believe those are M8x1.25 thread. I don't know how long but I would imagine they're used often on various Subaru heads.
When you went to reassemble the head, was there a torque setting for the allen head bolts? When I got my heads machined and valves replaced they did not re tighten those and I'm having difficulty find them online
I dont recall what the torque spec was. In this case, I would find what the spec is in regards to engineering standards. Those are 5mm bolts I believe?
I don't remember for sure but I believe it was a torx. It could possibly be a torx plus size. I remember having a hard time finding one that fit properly as well. I think I just got lucky and they weren't incredibly tight. Definitely proceed with caution. That could certainly add another element to your project.
Great video man, thanks! Got a pair I'm working on right now, and the shop manual instructions seemed a little less than clear regarding those springs. A tip I learned from a couple of other videos -- use a 4mm socket with an extension on it. The socket fits almost perfectly over the little vertical spring tab. Use the extension then as a lever to move the spring slightly toward the cam and a little to the side to release it from the stop. It can then gently be brought to rest toward the back (away from cam) of its housing. Reverse the process during installation to position it back into the stop again.
Hey, thanks for this. I appreciate your calm, humble, no-nonsense vibe very much. I was also struggling a bit getting the intake rocker back on, and watched this video which did in fact serve to be reassuring, and let me re-focus my attention in a more productive way. Such that, in fact, I figured out the trick to it: There is too much tension on those main rocker springs to do the job safely and comfortably, and as you so nicely put it "if it feels like something's wrong, it probably is" - the trick is to release the spring pressure by slipping the spring stopper off on side of the spring. After that it's a walk in the park, and its quite easy to push the spring back over the "hook" on the stopper after the shaft is bolted down. Cheers!
Thank you so much for this comment. It really means a lot to me. I'm happy this video turned out to be something beneficial to other people and not just to myself. Great feedback Cheers to you as well!
The reason I pulled these heads was to replace head gaskets. I also had a valve job done at an automotive machine shop (which is a good thing to do while having the heads off...) Because of this, I left the valves in the head and the machine shop took care of the rest. All I had to do upon reassembly was set the clearance between the rockers and valve stems. (Valve lash, clearance... whatever its referred to as.) You can remove the valves yourself if you want but I figured I would let the shop do that since they have the proper valve spring compressor and I didn't have to worry about keeping things organized that they ultimately would have had to deal with. Does this answer your question? If you're referring to the oil valves or solenoids as they're called, that actuate the variable valve lift, then no. I didn't have to mess with any of that stuff aside from removing the solenoids and replacing the gasket upon reassembly. Hope this helps!
why not just release the spring tension from the little clip? Then use a screwdriver or other pry tool to attach the clip back to the pin that normally holds it? This way seems a lot more dangerous and difficult with the tension on the rocker.
Nice video you dint carry on with a hole lot of stuff we did not need and you explain it clear in terms anybody could understand well done and thank you
There are shops around the country that specialize in particular heads. Some of which are subaru heads. Maybe try calling one of them and see if they have a source.
I think the only difference would be that I highly doubt the 01 foresters had variable valve lift. This essentially means the intake side of the assembly wont have the funny spring doodads with the little pins that can fall out. When taking your intake rockers off, it would be just like the exhaust side of the head shown here in the video.
Great instructional video...I’m guessing you did this prior to getting a valve job? Like the plier handle hack, never would’ve thought of that. Also does this save a lot of cash if going to machine shop next?
Thanks Andy. If I remember correctly, the machine shop said it would be an extra 10 bucks per head to pull the cam carriers off and reassemble. I more or less wanted to prove to myself I could do it.
Thanks to you, i was able to navigate through some uncharted waters! What a relief! Bank one is now complete, bank two for tomorrow. The trick is also in the glue set-up time followed by NO distractions of any kind. I used a non-marring dash panel tool to keep those pins in line. Thanks again for your "lift assistance," and may God bless you too!
I'm glad you were successful! If I'm correct, you're referring to the cam carrier or hold down plate thingy and the sealant that goes underneath it? That was stressful for me too. I'm happy to report that after many miles of driving on these heads, there's no leaks anywhere. I used ultra black rtv. But yes, no distractions is key. Once you start that process theres no turning back. Thanks for the comment!
I don't think it necessarily has to be in any particular position but I think it would be easiest to tighten the bolts down when the cam is not applying pressure to the rockers.
Is it feasible to change cams on a 253 without removing heads/engine or no? (I have no other reason to remove motor at this time) SEems like a very high level of effort unless you'd have motor/heads off.
It may be possible. But removing the engine is about a 2 or 3 hour job if you don't run into any issues. It might be worth your time to just pull it out. It will make the cam change a lot easier I would imagine.
Shop manual tells you to release the spring tension by bending the tabs holding the springs out of the way. Easiest way is to just push the pins in, hold constant pressure on the rockers with your forearm and hand and walk the bolts in until the whole assembly pops down into place.
