I really enjoy working on and building anything so why not share it and how I do it? I mostly like working on/modding vehicles and currently, you will mostly find my 2002 Toyota 4Runner (3rd Gen, t4r).
Bad job. You left a lot of scaling rust. That is all still rust. You failed to remove all of it. Covering it up with chemicals, wax and paint won't stop it, it will still rust underneath all of it, You said it yourself. You should have done it right the first time, if not, just use fluid film/surface shield so you can power wash it off later to properly treat it.
Do completely quote me on this, but I think it doesn't work because the silencer is not integrated into the intake the same way. I don't believe it has two hoses that it couples to, it's just in the side of the main intake hose so it interacts a little differently with the system.
Only tough thing with that is you'd likely want to strip most lines that have fluids and some other components, so it may be worth just disassembling the axle and pulling it out to then sand blast it, but I do like the idea of a homemade one!
Great video, im thinking about doing theI ISR mod soon but I just moved to Utah and I was wondering if you usually go offroading or overlanding and see if i can tag along sometime
The projectors themselves are doing great, but not so much for the LEDS, I should have bought some higher quality ones, the blue signal for 3 of the LEDS in the driver-side halo have gone out. I bet if I epoxied them as well, we would be just fine!
@@mattuccibuilt3970 I ordered the Morimoto projectors with the HID lights. I'm not doing any halo's or anything else. Just want to be able to see at night.
@@mattuccibuilt3970 One of the things I learned on my retrofit lights, LED's fail. heat dissipation issues with most installs is common. Halo's are toast and now I'm just rocking the projectors and don't care. The light output compare to em is a game changer here in the PNW
Another happy 3rd gen 4Runner owner here, and I only lucked into it by chance! A friend of mine was selling a car right when I was needing one and I said sure why not it’s a Toyota, how could I go wrong? But I had no idea how lucky I’d gotten! I got a mint condition 2000 Toyota 4Runner for $3000.00 and nothing is wrong with it, I mean everything on that truck works! I’m so jazzed! I’ve done the spark plugs on it and a few other things but your video is very helpful and I think I can do the rest now too, thanks! 💪👊👍
That's awesome man! Thanks for looking into the channel and I hope the enjoy the new to you 4Runner, mine has never let me down and I hope the same for you.
Have you had leaks? They are known for that. Even after changing the seals & using toyota FIPG I still had leaking. Just recently I saw I video showing the oil cooler where it bolts to the block & guess what, that was the source of the leak. There was a large o-ring & a seal for the banjo bolt. My o-ring was cracked and came out in pieces. Mine is a 4x4 and you have to go in through the driver wheel well with the wheel removed. It is TIGHT!
Luckily I don't have to deal with that! The only leak I've had is the front diff, just needed to tighten the drain plug and that was fixed. Obviously there was seeping from the valve covers and that's why I did them, but they're good now!
It looks like SRQ Fabrications make a modified replacement, but if you just need a stock one, eBay or a junk yard. I cannot find any newly manufactured parts. Thanks for watching!
Yes! I think that would be completely worth it! Depending on where you put them I can't imagine it would decrease the structural integrity too much either! Some low profile handles might be a good option as well, you've got me thinking!
Definitely add your engineering knowledge whenever possible. I think it would add more uniqueness to your videos and be a considerable help to viewers. Thanks for the videos.
Keep it up! When you get the space and time for doing the final rust removal, I recommend taking the body off the frame. I've done it twice now without a lift outside. It also makes it easier to service the engine and suspension. Scary at first, but it's easier than people think. You should have a backup vehicle because you will want to spend more time getting to every component.
They're doing pretty good! I did have a problem on the driver's side but I think it was either my fault or pandemic quality products. The top hat had some wear because the shaft of the shock had the wrong interaction. I have seen this setup many times and those people don't seem to have any issues at all.
I believe the stock size is 265/65r16 which is a just under 30" and that was what was on mine. Also, I don't have personal experience, but I've read that what I put on there, 265/75r16 which is about a 32", is the largest you can go without a lift and not have rubbing unless the vehicle is really articulating or has excess weight.
Looking for a 2 inch lift from factory and every lift video I watch uses 5100s but with a different combination of springs. So confusing! I understand if you have heavy front/rear bumpers you require heavier springs, but whats the best OME combo for stock weight?
It is confusing! My front 881's gave pretty close to 2" and I think the 890 in the rear would give pretty close to 2". If you have a little bit of time though, I would recommend saving a little more and getting 2.0 shocks and springs from someone like Bilstein, Fox, or Icon, that's what I wish I would have done.
@vbnautical5041 2.0 just refers to the shock body diameter, the bigger the better in almost all regards with shocks. I spoke without doing much research though, Bilstein doesn't technically make a 2.0 the 5100 looks like a 1.95" diameter. I'd look into the 6112's for the front if sticking with Bilstein, but the 5100's are very good overall.
These are pretty rough measurments - 4" tall, 56" Wide, 20" Deep. The frame rails are about 37" from inner to inner (horizontal), and the outsides are about 41.5". I still think they can be used to mock something up! Just make sure to measure actual values before cutting and welding!
