On a radial, you’ll be better at around 14 psi on that light of a car. It would work really well if you can get it to separate in the rear rather than squat (if the track can handle it) I went from mid 1.6s to low 1.4s after adding cal tracks and getting it to separate on radials.
Just started watching your channel since a friend shared a video. I’ll probably be commenting a bunch as I watch. For bolts that back out I use Nord Locks. I’ve had fantastic luck with them since I use a crank adapter to go from Mitsubishi to GM. Looks like you’re in the Houston area. I’m down south and go to Edinburg regularly. Hopefully I’ll get up there soon with one of my cars. I have just few videos on here but you may like my silly builds. So far my 4g fox has went 5.21@132 (switching to 2j now) my colt has been 6.15@117 but I just got started with it and my mighty max truck has been 5.78 with the 4g (it’s LS now). Looking forward to chatting with you sometime. Love the build.
Thank you for sharing. I tried something like this in the turbine housing using a -4 fitting and an air compressor. It didn’t change much so I discounted the idea. Was trying to get away from nitrous with my 4g63/PG fox body. I ended up going to compound turbos. That along with a dump valve helped a lot. I’m now switching to a 2jz/PG and I might revisit your idea with larger piping and more pressure. I might also try it on my AWD 4g colt. Nice to find another small engine auto guy to watch!!!
That is por 15 top coat its not the por 15 rust encapsulator two differnt products the solids in bottom ar pigments or pigment powder and other solids to give the paint more durabilty
The better way to do this is with high flow valves and nitrous bottles or scuba bottles. Better yet just spray actual nitrous into the engine. The issue is carrying all that weight when realistically you should be able to spool it without this stuff. Plenty of 300 ci engines spooling 106mm turbos with g trim turbines. I can't see what you're doing being harder then that. Big lazy extremely old design turbine design vs latest stuff and tiny turbo. Nice try though it's cool to try it.
Doing these on my acr neon made a day and night difference and made a car hook on the street in 3rd that used to spin in 5th on the same tires. A flat floor let me hook in 2nd with a big diffuser and splitter. Nothing fancy either it was all pretty simple. Math says at 50mph were seeing 200lb of suck on the nose without increasing drag and actually reducing it.
Glad you're okay brother. I have been quietly watching the build progress and it sure has come a long way. Here's to hoping it's not as bad as it looks once you dig in.
Sorry you are hurting more later. Hopefully you heal quickly and easily. I have had a slippery situation at speed before, but not this bad, but so scary.
If I had been running lower tire pressure when this happened, the car would have been looser on the big end, and more likely a tire pop off the rim too. So I'm glad I upped the pressure. Car was much more stable with the higher tire pressure. Plus, it 60' faster than ever even though I didn't raise the boost or anything!
Wow! That's the 1 thing that really hurts when you've got that much time and effort into a project like this... 😭 Looking forward to the breakdown of it all and seeing the future plans! Glad ur safe, Pat!
Looks like a real body shop could fix ghat reasonably cheaply and quickly. Obviously gotta factor in the time and effort and cost of duplicating the chassis from another known good one when you're comparing estimates from body shops
I think it could be fixed. It's a possibility I cut and re-weld a section back onto my car to replace the original. But right now, I'm thinking of fabing a tube chassis rear section.
Thankfully you were far enough ahead of the other driver that it was only single car accident. It takes a lot of experience to not overcompensate, turning too far and going into understeer, braking too hard and sliding. That is natural when things go to shit that fast. Glad you are bruised, not broken. The car you can fix.
I've been using POR-15 for many years and I don't brush on their top coat product as it doesn't flow very well. The top coat is also not very durable and takes a long time to fully cure. It's really meant to be used as the name suggests - as a (UV stable) top coat. I use the _aerosol_ top coat and spray over regular brushed-on POR-15.
It's frame damage big time in the back. But, I still think I can backhalf the car and save it. I highly recommend taking the safety stuff seriously. I spent a lot of time and effort over-engineering my seat mounting, 3D making the down bar to give me extra clearance for my left side, very very good rear seat back brace. I installed more steel, more bolts than required by the rules as I know how bad an accident gets if the seat fails or flexes too much in a wreck. Same for harnesses, no messing about, they are installed with steel backing plates, grade 8/10 bolts with fender washers. All that stuff appears to be in as-new condition after the wreck.
oof, you were on a hell of a pass too, takes a really good driver to keep a miata from spinning like a top at that speed given the short wheelbase. Glad you're okay !
Yeah, it went 6.08 sideways through the traps! That was my be 60', best ET. Super close to running 5's. Yeah, the short wheelbase is not forgiving. I'm considering modifying that with my repair plan.
Thanks. Yeah, if I had hit the front at the speed I was going when it hooked, it would have been way worse. Lucky I was able to reduce speed and get the rear to hit first.
Have you talked to CarPassionChannel on RU-vid? He’s got a high HP BP motor and knows a decent amount about tuning these motors. He’s using E85 I believe.
oh yeah those spherical bearings should help, and hopefully those set screws will work. I'm surprised they don't recommend a weld in sleeve or something...set screws seem like an issue, like you mentioned I'm going to guess that you'll need a totally different rear suspension, iirc those xidas don't have proper dampening or springs or travel for what you are doing. Definitely being at full soft will improve your launch grip. Nice job addressing those issues!
If you block off your iac plate and set it with the idol screw it should never dip assuming your not using the iac if you are using the iac use a closed loop idol strategy I tune a lot of Miata’s on megasquirt but your in a different league of fast and I love seeing your videos :)
I think your catch can is filling with oil from turbo as your oil drain pipe from turbo to pan is too small in diameter for turbo that big. At WOT there is a lot of oil under high pressure coming through turbo and your drain tube should be as big as possible to avoid getting that oil into intake. Or your turbo oil feed restrictor is too small? aaand maybe im wrong but to have full catch after just two runs is weird for bad piston rings
Isnt blowby supposed to be caught off the passenger side of the valve cover in high hp BP applications? Or am I misremembering that thread on miataturbo? Did you set up the piston ring clearance to be that loose? I think you have to make sure your catch can is setup to filter the oil if you are routing back into the oil pan
