New Music - Indie - Southern Gothic - Country - Americana - Dark Folk - Ambient Guitar Setup & Gear Demos
Americana Southern Gothic Outlaw Country Blues Appalachian Spotify Indie LGTWO Spiritual Zambi Surf Jam Ambient Punk Indie Gospel Blues Atlanta Georgia Shuffle flower child Extreme BBQ cookoff Los Angeles Texas Swing Prophet Boogie Improvisational Worship Jazz Wave Experimental Hillbilly Jamband beats Jam Band Environmental Modern Wah Independent indie Classic Church Folk Art Guitar New Orleans Heavy Delta Voice NY Dance Woogie raga Boogie Cage Free Vocal New Retro Wave Anthem romantic Ballad Singer Songwriter 80's 70's Alternative Prophetic Seer NYC non-denominational Extravagant Grunge Soaking Praise Healing Euro Metal Beat Rap Heavy Soul Latin R&B Dylan Garcia Grateful Dead foodie fine cuisine Iron chef recipe off the grid psychedelic hippie Johnny Cash Tom Waits Waylon Willie Kris sync synchronization licensing singer songwriter vintage
Great videos Roger! I have an Armstrong 4380 vertical mount where the motor has failed(open winding) . This will be my first attempt on replacing a closed coupled pump motor. I assume it's best practice to order the seal kit and replace them any time you open up the pump? Thanks !
Hi Roger! Thanks for the great video! I am really enjoying using the tremolo in this way. I have never thought taking this approach to the tremolo and really digging the results. I also love the tone of that fuzz! Could you tell me the name of the fuzz that you are using in this video?
thanks for watching and the kind words the overdrive is a Greer Lightspeed ... its a low gain pedal that is great with other pedals and is very quiet . www.towncentermusic.com/greer-amps-lightspeed-overdrive.html. the amp is an 80's Marshall solid state lead 12 which sounds a pretty good on its own
Thank you so much for your Tipps! It absolutely worked out for me! Additionally i added a piece of Foam in the cavaty which ads additional force on the backplate and keeps it from moving.
Hi Roger, I really enjoyed your Wah videos! I've watched them all at least 25 times! I have two vintage Wah's...wondering if you might be interested in installing some mods for me? I would be happy to pay you of course.
That is very kind .. but I have moved since all those were shot as am not set up for such things anymore. I hope you find a way to experiment !! best rb
Appreciate the video, just helped my coworker and I not only remove the brass sleeve, but stopped us from blowing the second of two seal kits we had when our dumb selves had the sleeve going the wrong way and didn’t realize until after seeing this. We wondered why the hell that seal was fighting us so bad 😂😂
nope .. a sweated on sleeve will not come off with a puller a lot of companies have gone with gaskets/0rings or lock tight but this is an old school sweat on sleeve .. boom
@thebrainard ...I suppose the surface area being much greater than a bearing makes sense in that case. I usually use a cone heater to drop bearings on, but a puller to get them off. For sleeves, I also normally use a torch, because all ours use loctite.
a couple questions for you Roger.. 1. does the ground wire cut back on any microphonics by having it in place, or is it only a potential source of additional microphonics if it causes your bridge baseplate to be not perfectly flush against the body? i actually installed a set of original vintage tele pickups by fender and they don't call for a ground wire to the bridge plate. see here: www.fmicassets.com/Damroot/Original/10001/Pure_Vintage_Telecaster_Pickup_Wiring.pdf 2. in haven't tried wax-gluing the copper mag plate to the bobbing, which i could do.. but i did briefly try to adjust it, and i accidentally severed the grounding wire from the pickup to the bottom of the mag plate. i've since reattached it by soldering it back together .. i think it's reattached anyway ... but have i compromised the integrity of the authentic tone at this point? 3. tapping with non-metal instrument like a pencil or guitar pick anywhere on the bridge plate and even a little bit on the control panel plate when the pickup selector is in the bridge position causes a loud knock coming through the amp, about as loud as playing the strings or tapping directly on the pickup poles with a metal instrument .. is that solely from the mag plate being not firmly affixed, or to get this to cease would i need to be sure i have a brass bridge plate, or some other non-magnetic alternative, installed?
1- ground wire is only a potential source of microphonics there is a path to ground for the bridge via the coil's negative/ground wire .. the screws going into the mag plate which is grounded touch the bridge plate so there is grounding .. I just like to make certain sure that I have as good a ground network as possible .. it is 'not needed' as long as the other wires are in place 2- you have not .. you do want it grounded tho 3 - the mag plate does need to be firmly attached .. but you will NEVER get rid of all of it .. there is so much metal and any vibration will be transduced by the pickup. but if you check all the boxes it will be less ... I have yet to have a switch that did not make a clunk thru the amp .. hope that helps
@@thebrainard somebody said it already, but your wisdom is appreciated... i stopped into my local guitar shop yesterday and tried a few teles they had. none had the problems mine does; i tapped on the bridge plates for all of them trying to see if i could recreate the loud knocking coming through the amp and they were all next to zero noise. i know for a fact at least some of those guitars had the style of pickups that do have the mag plate underneath the bridge pickup, so that tells me it's possible to get this problem to go away.. somehow.... i'll try a few more of your tips on my setup and if i can't get that crazy loud microphony to cut back or out i may just have to try a different set of pickups. thanks again
you can get it to go away .. brass bridge plate no mag plate under pickup and even nylon screws to support the pickup .. will still have a bit of TELE but also a bit straits without all the magnetic halo caused by all the steel ... I think you get it !!! happy twangin'
@@thebrainard man, thank you so much for your help.. i was able to completely solve the problem i was having with my microphonic bridge pickup! i almost started to initiate a return to send the set back but it is excellent now - able to rock hi-gain sounds with no horrific squealing. for anyone else following along (probably no one, but just in case) i did the following: 1) melted a modest amount of shaved candle wax between the bridge/mag plate and the bridge pickup bobbin, clasped it tight with a pliers and let it sit overnight 2) added additional surgical tubing to encase the pickup mounting screws, the ones they give you just aren't long enough in my opinion to really compress the bobbin into the mag plate 3) LOOSENED MY BRIDGE PLATE .. i was screwing it in so damn tight that it was lifting off the body slightly in the front (neckward side...) so by loosening the mounting screws for the bridge plate just slightly, and only tightening them up until the point where they WOULD start to lift the plate, but DONT, and then letting the strings apply the rest of the downward pressure on the plate to the body, as advised in this video.. i plugged into a 20w jet city head and cranked the gain and it sounded glorious
@@thebrainard wonderful - I like your style :-) I've been so frustrated with Luthiers in the Capital District/Albany NY area - I've slowly got to the point where I'm going to simply do it myself lol
just take your time and think thru the process of what you are going to do a couple times before you actually do them .. and don't go 'all the way right away.... make it 'better' and leave it a week and come back and tweet it... do that a couple times over a few weeks and you will nail it !!! best
An excellent system if one does not know how to do simple math and never learned to use a measuring instrument! And no, a ruler is not a "specialized tool".
give it a try .. the tele plate is pulled tight by the adjusting screws .. if your plate is 'floating' it may and may not .. what you want Is to eliminate the contact and any looseness
Great demo...In 1960's time this was used on many albums such as Zep to JHX to SRV created miraculous tones that exist in history's recordings. This primitive technolgy is lost. (Leslie 16)
Similar procedure for re-potting a pre-potted pickup ? I guess once the pickups have been waxed, lacquer is not an option any more without totally deconstructing & cleaning the parts free of wax. Lacquer saturated & coated (Fender) is an intriguing application material vs the wax.
if its wax potted I am pretty sure you could repot .. just let it get good and warm so the inner area wax melts and draws in some more wax. you could re-soak a lacquered pickup in thin lacquer. it could melt the old lacquer and soak in farther.. I am saying this from guitar finish experience .. nitro lacquer layers 'melt' into the hardened lacquer layers.. soooo maybe
@@thebrainard makes sense, like potted can be repotted. One would have to deconstruct & rewind a clean pickup unless the lacquer might have some effect as a wax solvent & break the wax down removing any waxy residue layer.
This has inspired me to add an AM Crystal Tuner and Detector to my Bass. Have you ever picked up radio stations in your guitar/amp due to bad wiring, grounding, or shielding? I am going to add a switch and a tuner cap so I can dial in local AM radio stations ON PURPOSE FOR FUN AND EFFECT.
It you transfer your wax pot to a stand with a DC motor and an off balance weight on the shaft, that will cause a wide spectrum vibration through the wax and pickups and that will work out more air (sort of like in concrete pouring where they poke and vibrate the cement to work out air bubbles).
Paraffin Wax is good, but the paraffin is flammable if a direct flame ever comes in contact with it (which should be very, very rare in guitars - a la Hendrix following The Who). Some people use bee's wax which I think (not sure) is not very flammable. Another thing about any wax is that it is soft and has a low meting point. So, if your axe is ever exposed to say a 120 F day (like maybe at a summer outdoor gig) the wax can start to run and pool inside your axe's cavities, not likely, but it can happen. I think shellac/lacquer (like what is used in transformers for the same reasons) is better. It too is flammable but at slightly higher temperatures than wax and dries hard and won't soften until over 180 F.
There's a reason why Fender started using wax and why most of other pickup builders do. The lacquer does not penetrate deep so you can end up with a very microphonic pup. Also, lacquer deteriorates with time and lacquer potted pickups can't be serviced.
Thanks for that vid. My telecaster was squealing so loud. Seems like everything was wrong : bridge plate not flat, springs instead of tubes, and copper base plate not properly glued to the pickup. Added some surgical tube instead of springs, glued the copperplate using heated candle wax and flattened the baseplate by adding strips of copper tape to avoid unwanted vibrations. Its now perfectly quite.
If your bridge action is too high.. you can take the bridge off when you change strings.. take a piece of sand paper like 200 grit place it on a flat hard surface.. run the bottom of the bridge across the sandpaper a couple times each time you change strings until you're happy with the height.. no notches necessary.. the crown is left in tact..
yes you 'can' .. can being the operant word you used... and you may as well ... but I think I mapped out why I showed this way... I do not propose this as the only or even the best way ...but it is a way and it works great and if you are inexperienced enough to think that the crown of the saddle can not be articulated after this is done.. no hope ... .. did you listen? .. try doing that
