Hi Brian.Another beauty to add to your collection.I scratch built a 1940ish side fihing trawler from an magazine article in Scale Ship Modeller.During covid I decided to give her a much-needed overhaul.I am looking for some 1/43 scale deckhands.Any suggestions? Rod Ransome,Port Hope
Thanks Rod. If you search eBay.ca for "1:43 scale train figures" there's a lot. Looks like the vendors intermix 1:48 scale (American 0 scale) with 1:43 (Diecast scale). Maybe some of these could be heated with a lighter and bent to different shapes. Should be fun to paint them up as sailors. Brian RCWH
I'm a sculptor. I would make a waxed wooden keel and use this to make a two part mold. Pour lead in and you have a perfect keel that needs little or no finishing (fairing). The mold could be used over and over. Michael
I think that is a great method you describe. My intention in the video was to have a method using steel or lead pieces to form any shape keel without a precise mold. No melting of lead is required. Of course the keel weight is not as concentrated and your suggestion would likely be better for a racing design. Thanks for giving a different approach. Brian RCWH
Slipway has nice models for sure. On my Haven 34 hulls I have used a standard 540 dc motor because they are inexpensive and the running gear is easy to find on eBay. Electronics to run these motors are also easy to replace as well. One motor will push my hull far over hull speed. My objective is always to keep RC motors, running gear and electronics simple and affordable. For a much larger model say 5 or 6 feet long I would be tempted to look at 775 motors but the associated mounts, running gear, batteries and electronics would probably be more heavy duty. And possibly harder to find and more expensive. On the other hand the 775 is a tough powerful motor and may be more in line with your build. Brian RCWH
Love your video's. I've been into work boat models about 50 years and don't have to tell you how awesome all of yours are. Green Loctite is great to set bushing and bearings into shafts. At your skill level and maybe you have already, Consider a mini lathe. I've had my "cheap" Chinese mini lathe about 5 years and it's so useful. Lately I've been making scale props. Been going back and upgrading my boats. Highest I've made so far is 5 blades. Thanks for posting. Things like this will pull young blood into the hobby.
I've been an RCer for over 60 years and now trying RC sail and scale boats. Love the knocker. Thanks for sharing. Was surprised to see you are from Georgian Bay. I have been down here in NC since '68 but grew up in Collingwood and Wasaga Beach. I still have a bunch of family at the Beach.
Hey, you ever tried more than one knock actuators? I mean on the knocker, not just the one contact pin but put another 180° around other side. Then have two knocks per rotation. Mabey that would sound cool.......
What no 3 D printer? That will never work old man. As a retired guy myself I play with rc trucks so appreciate your efforts putting all this on video. You could trim the front top ( height) down a bit or move weight forward. I have no idea really but this looks a little high in the front? I am about to learn brazing myself, good luck with your rc.
I grew up sailing around the world on a boat with my parents and I got a pair of tin snips and started cutting the tops and bottoms off of soda cans and made boats with that same exact philosophy. I just folded the metal at the bow and for the stern folded it into a low stern. I'd make a rudder/skeg out of more can metal and then made a basic square sail out of another can and send them off downwind. I'd seen hydrofoils by that time and i started putting rudimentary skies on either side near the bow also made from soda can metal and those would lift all but the stern out of the water and rip off downwind quite quickly. When we were in the red sea we bought some pepsi in these huge cans and i made a bigger version with that and made a keel for it and some better sails and that one would go upwind pretty nicely. Cool to see it taken further with a full rc build.
It's great and easy to build, but the deck should be parallel to the water line to make it look better on the water...and the bow could be 10 degrees or so less to become parallel to the deck 😊. Good job !
I'd like to get one of those small steam engines that run on alcohol, and make a small charcoal furnace to power it. Would sound great, and have the potential to catch fire and sink. At least the sound and smoke would be real, as well as the tragedy if it struck any ice burgs.
This is great! Real clunker boat sounds! One thing that puts me off RC boats is the noise they don't make. My own scale RC boat does sound fairly correct, but that's because it's powered by a turbine engine. I love the way you have all the adjustments.👍
As a sound guy: That is a pretty darn good facsimile of the sound of a diesel engine relative to the scale. I could definitely hear the dampening of the lid when you put the rubber band over it to hold it in place and thought it sounded better without it, a pair (or three) of small screws through the lid into the can would allow it to resonate in its full glory. I'd love to hear it in the water. Great Stuff!
Lumber Hooker ships were indigenous to The Great Lakes. Also, considering the Size of the RC Lumber Hooker ship, any RC Lake Freighter you will make will definitely be quite Big.
When I was a kid we did similar with our bikes. A bit of card hitting the spokes.at lower speed it was best. I believe it sounds better than the sound generator on model rail.
