Is there a reason why you don't comment all your "G" codes? Seems like a good beginner thing or a new trainee format. Or is it just something that drops off like training wheels as you get more familiar with the environment. Like G20 (program in inches) G80 (cancel any canned cycles)
The steam portion of the burn is worth saving aka ‘wood vinegar’ . It has its own properties as a fertiliser or inoculant for the biochar . The wood vinegar can be captured with a condenser , the volatile gasses would be allowed to continue as the gas stays ‘airborne’ and will be vented through a pipe trough the top of the condenser . The condenser contents should be drawn off as soon as the gasses ignite (for the wood vinegar) . The condenser will continue to liquify a portion of volatiles as bio-oil . If there’s too much gas coming out the gas can be compressed and put into a gas cylinder , it should be ‘cleaned’ before use as a fuel source for a generator . That gas can also be used instead of using wood to start the next burn . Problem with the gas ignition , my suggestion would be to have two pipes putting the gasses into the burn chamber , both on taps to regulate the flow of gas to the front or back
Hello Mr WildRandall62, thanks for sharing these informative videos. They are really helping me understanding operations on cnc lathe. I have a question, does ‘Formatting Numbers for CNC’ chapter explained in some other video? I viewed lesson 5 and 6 video as well but I couldn’t find it. Thanks in advance. 🙏
Yes it is covered, however it is done very badly and I was not comfortable posting that content as I am not the author, just have the rights to publish, sorry.
If you have the BIG Diameter (Cunter sink) and little d Hole drilled) I was taught to do D-d/2 x 1 for 90 degree countersinks for depth in so confused and frustrated
On a 90 degree countersink (the tool) what ever diameter you want the countersink hole to be, just have the depth of your counter sink tool to be half of the diameter of the countersink hole. if you want a 5 mm diameter countersink on the part then program the tool depth to go down 2.5mm.
If you were to do anything different, what would it be? Would you center the exhaust? I think I would use a welding blanket for the front door. I'm not that great with metal. I'm about to build one just like yours. Great video. Thank you so much.
@15:40 looks like G01 x. 6 was not in the sequence. Correct me if im wrong. Im starting watching your videos and its very helpfull for beginner like me.
If the charcoal you are getting works good in your grill, then the burner system is doing well enough... Always the simpler you can make it, the better. Great looking system.
If you added pipes from you side vents down below firebox level you would draw in fresh air to help burn and stop losing heat out of vents which thus give you higher temps and create a better gasification
The gas from the Feed Stock (what I am converting to charcoal) is very bad, Long chain hydrocarbons. This gas is greatly reduced when it retorts. The smoke from the priming wood (What I am using to start the retort reaction) is also greatly reduced due to the secondary air vents in the chimney. These vents allow the priming smoke to burn up in a fashion similar to a catalytic converter on an automobile. This makes the entire process very non polluting when compared to other non commercial charcoaling processes. There is still some smoke in the beginning, but once the temperature in side the retort reaches a point where the gas combusts, this is kept to a minimum and the heat from that also helps drive the reaction. When this is in full retort the temp reaches 900 degrees F.
It had been a LONG time since I had seen any of your videos, but for some reason your hunting videos popped into my mind. Do you know how long it took me to find your channel after I had forgotten the name of it? Lol. I’m glad I did though. I always enjoyed your commentary and music. Hopefully 2023 will treat you well.
Hi, I love your dedication and inginuity and would like to share my thoughts about a charcoal furnace with you to see if it is viable. Would you be interested?
I don't know about the food grade barrels but cans used for food have a lining of some sort. That's why the scrap yards won't accept tin food cans. That lining messes up the metal when they melt it down, at least that's what my local scrap yard says.
@@WildRandall62 that’s awesome! I’m going to try it tomorrow. Im assuming because there’s no where for air to vent out the top,air won’t go in the bottom…….🤷🏼♂️ sounds good.
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These videos are really, really good if you pay attention, maybe have a notebook and write notes on all important things he goes over. I set up CNC Lathes, and I never went to school for it. I just learned it on the job. These videos have been invaluable for me. I was literally able to start using a wider range of techniques, getting jobs done better/faster, and ultimately upping my income. Very glad you put these up, they are well done, easy to follow, and all have a wealth of knowledge within.
Been waiting for this for ever I've been hunting only a handful of times this year but recently lost the private hunting spot we go to so public land for now but all that matters is I'm out there in the nature nice job this year
Just used House insulation and do not cover anymore, just use baling wire to hold it on. I got a new build that needs no insulation and will put up the Vid shortly.
@@WildRandall62 thanks. What R value did you use? I am not doing the same build because I want to carbonize all my feed stock. I've learned from many videos. Household insulation is less expensive than kaowool, rockwool, or ceramic blankets. Thanks for tending to this older video.
i have whatched all these lessons and i consider some parts or some part of videos are missing am i correct for example tapping & reaming cycles are not in the videos is there any way to have the full collection of these lessons??