Excellent video! I was struggling to disassemble the pieces for installation and had no idea there was a correction direction to install the plate so it would line up correctly. Thank you so much for such a helpful and informative video!
The magnet is the circular portion that’s at the end of the prong / post that I tried to level out at the 1:20 mark. The cup itself is just a magnetically attracted metal, like steel.
You are absolutely correct. I preferred not having a solid post sticking out from the door swinging back and forth, as I’d invariably catch the top of my foot or ankle on it.
I’m my case I didn’t bother pre-drilling the holes, but you can if you find the screws too difficult to put into the wall or door by hand. If you need to use the included wall plugs then you’ll definitely need to pre-drill the holes.
Thank you! Bought this today but couldn't figure out how to remove the screw plate from the door side of the unit. Really appreciate your taking the time to help out civilians like me 😄
I was stumped and watched your vid. Pliers worked like a charm. Finished installing 2 and have 2 more to go. As an older woman with teens, I hate to have to hire someone to do simple things around the house when there are people like you posting vids with clear and simple instructions. Thanks for the great video. 💕🇨🇦
You can absolutely swap the rod from the wall to the door if that suits you better. As far as raising it higher up for more clearance, you can go as high as you want so long as you have something solid to fasten both ends to. I hope that helps!
I suppose it would depend upon the toddler. It takes a decent amount of force to overcome the magnetic attraction, but it’s not likely going to stop a determined “door closer”. You would probably need to use a mechanical latch mounted higher up on the door to stop a toddler.
I'm assuming you're referring to the tool I used at the 2:05 mark, which are needle-nose pliers. You could also probably use tweezers just so long as it’s not too tight. Good luck!
I found there was a lot of echo in the bathroom with the stone tiles, so I didn’t want to speak too loudly. Turn up the volume and / or turn on closed captioning and my words should be clear enough.
Thank you for the video. I was having problems with the plate, bolt and nut. I am so happy that you stated to make sure "the nut is severely fastened to the bolt that runs through the plate'. I was able to complete this installation without any problems.
I’m not familiar with that door specifically, but every door I’ve ever looked at has some kind of solid core perimeter, otherwise it would be almost impossible to attach hinges or a lock set to it. If the door’s solid perimeter is especially narrow, I’d suggest marking up exactly where you need to place the magnetic cup first, but don’t attach it, and then work your way backwards to figure out where the wall mount needs to go. If all else fails, an expandable hollow wall core plug could probably be used on the door, but that would truly be a last resort.
@@jonBS4 I also have a cheap hollow door which luckily is open on the bottom. I made it work by doing the following so the screws had something solid to screw into! Mark the general the area where the catch will go and remove door. I fit a small (3" x 3") piece of scrap wood inside the hollow part where I had marked it. Needed a shim to make it fit better. Then I used wood glue to attach the shim to the wood, and the wood to the hollow opening of the door. Once dried, put the door back up and followed the video instructions for marking and installing the catch. Worked great! By the way, great video - I had the same problem with separating the 2 pieces of the catch!
@@lindam3497 It sounds like you figured out a good solution for your hollow door! I have never run across that kind of hollow door, let alone one that is open at the bottom.
I installed everything correctly then of course when it comes to spinning the door stopper it doesn't go in all the way. I've installed several of these and a few seemed effective
If you verified the final position of the screws on the wall in regards to the tightened stopper, then you should be able to tighten the stopper against the wall in the correct orientation. If you’re not able to get the required leverage with bare hands, then I’d suggest using a pair of locking pliers to tighten it down, but use something between the pliers and the stopper so as not to mar the finish of the stopper. I’d recommend a towel or old shirt. Good luck!
@@jonBS4 Yeah I see your point thank you very much but the issue is I twist and twist and then the thing is just loose and it's basically stuck on the wall It's as if the screw or something is stripped and I can't even remove it very odd not sure what happened
@@irecruitfish7410 Sorry to hear that. Maybe the main bolt got cross threaded and that’s why it’s not loosening or tightening any further? If you think that’s the case, you could use a pry bar underneath the stopper and apply gentle pressure while trying to loosen it. That should allow you to remove it and replace it with a non damaged one.
@@jonBS4 yeah I can try that out...for now the loose ones function it just shakes quite a bit when it catches the door. Thanks for the responses. Helpful video overall!
Hi Jon. Thanks for the video. I’ve just finished installing a new Dynavin on my e39 M5. My question to you is how do you set up the car’s clock now that the original unit is out?
Hi Yacov, I’d first suggest checking the owner’s manual for your specific model unit on the Dynavin website. Here’s a link to mine: dynavin.com/images/PDF/n6_owners_manual.pdf As I recall, you need to go to System Settings > Time Zone. From there I believe it was just a case of offsetting the time adjustment in hours of where you are located compared to UTC (effectively a successor to Greenwich Mean Time). In Ontario, Canada that’s a UTC -05:00 adjustment.
Thanks for the video as it was very helpful for me. How did you manage to get the unit flush with the panel? I am in the process of installing a Dynavin N7 pro on my e39 M5 and the unit won’t go all the way in. I am missing like 5mm to push it all the way through. I check the cables behind and it’s not the problem. It seems that the frame of the unit is a little bit to big.
I don’t know about the N7 pro specifically, as this install was for the N6, so there may be some differences between the two. As I recall, the antenna hookup on the back of the N6 was one part that caused me a lot of trouble. I disconnected everything at one point to see if the unit physically fit in the dash flush and then started attaching one connection at a time to see if it would still fit flush. It was very tight to get the antenna to attach and slide into the bracket and make room behind the unit for all the wires and connections. Good luck!
The green wall plugs really only need to be used in drywall. Most doors will have some sort of interior reinforcement around the perimeter, so I just screwed directly into the door.
I’m curious why you can’t just cut the original head unit bracket instead of keeping it together and taking the whole dash apart around it. It’s probably going in the trash anyway right?
You absolutely could cut the plastic, original head unit bracket, but you would still need to remove and / or loosen some of the dash panels to attach the new metal bracket and run the GPS antenna. At the time I did the install, I also wanted to save the original parts in case I wanted to go back to stock or sell the parts.
You made a clear and understandable video with good instructions for the installation. Thank you for the time you put in! What i meant before is" i dont have good knowledge about cars electricity, thats why im a bit afraid to do this"
Karib H thanks for clarifying your comment! I didn’t have any prior experience doing this before either, so it’s not particularly challenging, it just takes a bit of patience. I tried to show as many of the steps as possible as I hadn’t found any how-to videos when I was doing it.
At 11:55 in my video I mention connecting the CANBUS / IBUS interface box into the Dynavin harness and that's how the steering wheel controls are connected to the head unit.
@@jonBS4 Hi friend. if I understand I saw the whole video until the end. But still, I can't get the steering wheel controls to work. Their Light turns on, but they don't respond. Also another thing that I noticed is that with the canbus connected I can't use the winks and I get high light on. Can you help me with this?
@@horacioparis5400 I’m not sure which light you’re referring to. I don’t recall any lights on the CANBUS. Your original comment was from 3 years ago, was it working properly before now? Are you using the exact same Dynavin N6 unit?
How does the installation of this head unit differ from an E39 that does not have DSP? I have a 2003 540i with DSP and I thought that DSP caused a lot of complications when changing head units...?
I can only speak to the DSP install that I did, but I believe that the unit install is the same regardless of whether your car came with the DSP or not. You need to configure the sound settings a bit differently, but the physical install should be the same. If you buy the unit from the same company I did (jandtdistributing.com) they were quite helpful in getting things sorted.
