I been having this issue where my e46 would not crank or start in the summer heat. Already changed starter, ignition switch, clutch switch, atenta ring, crank shaft sensor. Long story short sent my ews and keys to someone in California for a new ews and extra key to be programmed. Ews was the culprit with some tests. After receiving the new ews and keys I now don’t get a crank or start. There’s no power to the female connector of the ews.
Hi, If it's a M54 engine e46 then this might help you out. Even without a scan tool and only having a basic multimeter you can pretty much narrow down where the voltage isn't getting through to the starter. Test light will work too but not a precision tool. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MXzqN34StsU.html
Do you have an idea on how to change milage on EWS? I changed my EWS to one from junkyard. I Was able to change VIN on the "new" EWS, but when changing milage I get an error writing back data to EWS. Thank you for any tips
Hi, the AK90 is 100% capable of changing the milage that is written to the EWS. Unfortunately, I have seen this problem before a few times, The EWS you got has bad memory sectors. You can test it by trying to write all FF characters and then all 00 characters to the entire memory space using the AK90 tool. It will likely fail trying to do one of them. You can read back off the EWS afterwards and see the exact spots in memory that won't take the write. Basically, that little section in memory is stuck and won't change. If you're just trying to drive the car, you don't have to worry too much about matching the odometer and vin. The only things that really matters are the ISN and rolling codes.
@@steamwhitehawk Hi, thanks for the fast reply. I'm aware of the fact that it isn't exactly nessecary, but my inner Monk wants this to be alignt 😂 I will give it a shot. I was trying to find the section where the milage is stored searching for the hex characters (same like the ISN code shown in the video) but couldnt find the section unfortunaltely. I thought maybe this would be a way to trick the flash into doing it whatsoever. I have one more question. I was trying to write my orinial key on used slots which didnt work. Is there a work around for that? Is it possible to earse key slots? (not just disable them. I know that this is possible). Same thing here. I know I just could take a free slot, but it would be more neat if I could overwrite the original slots as I have all four original keys and then had back the original setup with only four slots used
@steamwhitehawk got milage fixed. EWS dump adresses 0x129 to 0x131 need to be changed. Little Tricky is that the milage is mirrored. Instead of 04 D3 E7 it's written E7 D3 04 What I am still struggeling are the keys. Would be great if you could help me out with adresses of the diffrent key slots
@@kuenzelde You can still use your set of old keys but only if you still have the original EWS module that those keys were paired with and can successfully pull the .bin off of it. The original EWS and and all the keys have a shared "Password" string of hex characters stored in them. In addition each key has it's own fixed code that will need copying over too. Unfortunately it will be difficult to reprogram these parameters with the AK90. There is an old tool called EWS editor 3.2.0 that can help you break down the bin file better but honestly the effort is not worth it. I imagine if you do have the original .bin file from the old EWS you can just flash it onto your new EWS and you will be able to get the old keys working again after resetting the rolling codes. Basically, you're clone the old ews. Other option is to just make new keys. The PCF7935 transponder chip is fairly cheap on aliexpress. The new keys that you program will just have its password and fixed code based off of whatever code is found in the new EWS that you have. Hope this helps.
My car is e46 m43 with DME bosh bms46 complaints can work on the crank can't start and the temperature gauge shows stuck position, dme relay doesn't work is the method the same as in this video ,sir ? I am from 🇲🇨 please help!
Hello, most of the concepts with your key and ews still apply. You can just ignore the ms43 related stuff. A crank no start can be caused by a lot of other things too though. DME failure is possible but it is usually rare unless you had electrical faults happen. Are you still able to read any error codes with a scan tool? Are fuses good?
Hi there im trying to get Quick Delivery Ability but my pet gave me Quick Cashier Ability instead when it leveled up. I've only been delivering what am i doing wrong?
I think it might be random which ability you get. You have to get a new egg and try again unfortunately. Im not sure if what job you mainly do affects it, but try doing other jobs too i guess.
Hey, thanks for the video, but can you explain what part should I pair, because some times I had that my car no crank and star, then I turn my key about 5-10 times and then it cranks and starts, but today I start my car and when I went from shopping I cant crank and start my car till now, I just turn key ant it won't start, no crank. Can you explain me what shoaul I do and did I need to get AK90? thanks 🙏
Hello, Nope I would not jump the gun too quickly with the ak90 as there are a multitude of things that can cause the scenario you just explained. I would recommend attacking the easy stuff first. Because you're telling me it always starts eventually, it leads me to think it is not any sort of hard fault but something that is borderline working/non working. Make sure the battery is strong and the ignition switch is in good shape first. If you figure out both those things are good, only then would i start looking into the ews module or your keyfob. Find anyone who has a bmw scan tool you can borrow and look into the ews3 live data for more info for what might be locking your starter out. If you are feeling super electrically or mechanically inclined you can try following my crank no start video at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MXzqN34StsU.html You can probably skip the part about fuses and the starter as those likely aren't an issue. Good luck.
@@ignas7120 ok if you tried jumpstarting it with another battery already then the issue probably isn't your battery. Since the car is a manual transmission, you should add the clutch pedal switch to your checklist of items to check. A bad clutch pedal will lock out the EWS, you will see the state of the switch in the ews3 live data.
It's a 50 Amp fuse that is located above the regular small fuses in the passenger glove box. Honestly, It's a bit of a pain to get to. It's only really worth looking into to if you notice no voltage on the red wires going into the ignition switch. This guys video does a good job showing it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0zJLS5xHEKg.html
Hello, and ty for the sub. Unfortunately the pet ability is random for each pet you get, it is kinda like a lootbox. When you buy a new pet in the shop it starts as an egg. When you do work at the pizza place, it gets exp and levels up. Some random time before it hits level 10 it will get a random ability. This is where you will have to keep buying a new egg and try again if you don't like the ability you get. I hope that helps
@@IsaYT_420 No, you keep your pets unless you sell them. You can swap between them in the pet store. -Nice, Quick oven is the best ability out of all the abilities in my opinion. Yeah so there are 3 levels for the ability. When you first get the ability, it is at level 1. When your pet gets to about level 20 something it gets upgraded to level 2. And lastly when your pet gets to about level 30 something it gets the ability to level 3 which is the best. Getting to level 3 takes quite some grinding so it's good to be patient. And about the 3 pets thing, if you go to the pet store you can buy 2 more pet inventory slots. It will let you equip 3 pets at once so you can have 3 different abilities at the same time.
My apologies, but I forgot to add that you should also check the fuses that power the Immobilizer module. It is an unlikely fault but I am trying to cover everything.
COMMON EWS3 HARDWARE FAILURE SYMPTOMS 1) ISSUE: Bad Elmos 10029A Transponder IC chip SYMPTOMS: No Crank, No start -Using a BMW level scan tool, you will see in the EWS3, "live data" section that no key is recognized. There will be no genuine key number, and random code, rolling code, and password will all be bad. But also remember that a bad key chip will also have these symptoms. Therefore, rigorous testing should performed beforehand, testing MULTIPLE, KNOWN WORKING keys and having the exact same symptoms. A key ring antenna tester can also be used; You may notice that no radio waves are being emitted from the ring antenna. This will indicate that either the keyring is broken, or the Elmos chip is bad. SOLUTION: Have EWS module cloned/replaced or deleted OR just stop using that key number 2) ISSUE: Bad Memory Sectors on 0D46J chip EEPROM SYMPTOMS: Can be either Crank no start or No crank no start depending on which part of the memory is getting corrupted -If the issue is a No Crank, no start and you notice only 1 of your keys keep losing it's rolling code sync with the EWS. All your other keys are working just fine. You use the AK90 to resync that 1 bad key. It works once or twice with starting the car, and then loses its sync with the EWS again. You use the AK90 resync again and the pattern repeats. You even have that key replaced. For example, if it is key number 3, you buy a new blank key and program a NEW key number 3. The new key does the same exact thing. If all this happens, then you may have bad memory sector on your EWS3. More specifically, the memory for the rolling code of that key. -If the issue is a Crank, no start and you are getting fault codes in the DME for EWS anti tampering protection or something along those lines. All other EWS live data information is good, and key pairing is good. You use INPA and use the F2 option to Reset Start value sync/ "Startwert Zurücksetzen". The car may not even start or may get only 1 or 2 good starts before losing sync again. If the car behaves like this, there is a possibility that the memory sector of the EWS is bad or the DME could be faulty. Try replacing the EWS first. TESTING: Testing for bad memory sectors of the EWS is fairly straightforward. If you ever get a write error while using the AK90, then you have a bad memory sector. To thoroughly test this, first save a backup copy of your EWS bin file. Using any HEX editor, open your saved copy of that bin and modify it to make 2 new bin files. In one copy, edit all the hex values to 00 and save it. We will call it your All 0's file. Edit the file again and make another copy with all the hex values to FF. Call this your All F's file. By trying to write either of these files back into the EWS module, you are testing if every byte in memory is able to flip to all F or all 0. If you get an error writing either of these two files, that would mean that you have a bad sector in memory. You can use the AK90 to read back from the EWS and see which specific byte is bad. If all is good however, you can rewrite your backup file back into the EWS. If it is bad, then write your backup into a new working EWS module instead.
FRIENDLY REMINDER TO ALL. Assuming there is only a sync issue and no other issues with the car. A bad EWS to Key sync will cause a No crank, No start A bad EWS to DME sync will cause a Crank, No Start If your keyfob battery dies, it will only stop you from being able to use the buttons to remotely lock and unlock the car. It will not affect the transponder chip on the keyfob which actually gets its power wirelessly from the keyring antenna on your ignition cylinder. In other words, even with a dead keyfob battery, you can still use it to start the car.
