I can't get this thing to work at all it has made rc drag racing a big problem I don't see this screen at all why is everything with this speed control so difficult
I just got a M17 for drag. Very nice radio. Is there any way to set up a launch control button? Or engine cut ?One that wont over ride the throttle ramp? Great videos, keep up the great work.
Is 14awg big enough for the battery wires as well? My 120 amp drift ESC came with 12awg but I prefer thinner for routing and the look. Will switch to 14 if it's got plenty of current capacity. Thanks!
Yes, should be plenty fine! Drift cars don’t see a huge load of current or amps like a drag car due to the lack of grip. High grip scenarios require more current flow due to high loads of strain. Drifting I’ve never seen a need for anything beefy
I dont get how you guys make this look so easy. Is adding the liquid rosin necessary if the solder IM using has it in it already? Cus mine looks like a blind monkey did mine. Going to try again, but is there any worry about heat running back up the wire to the esc and damaging it cus it seemed like it took a really long time for the solder to reheat and melt on the contact points on the motor? Cheers in advance.
If you tin the tip of the iron the solder should melt for you very quickly. The rosin is just to ensure good penetration through the wire as it promotes heat flow. But I have definitely done plenty of soldering without it and the principles are the same. The most important tip I can say is always add solder to the iron tip before each attempt.
That Reedy 3300kv... Those are great little motor and esc combos! (Too bad I can't say the same for the DR10's receiver OR the Reedy 850R... boy those escs were a waste of 600 bucks... I bought two of them and one lasted 5 mins and the other like 15...maybe 20..) Anyway... that 3300 for some reason kicks butt. I have a BUNCH of them in all kinds of stuff! lol
That changes chassis roll not made ro change camber changes the way the suspension pushes and pulls on the tires and suspension is traveling through its motion causing chassis roll or what they call side bite
Stupid question...what if the esc nor motor has ABC on them? The middle wire is B i suspect...A or C can be either/or If its a programmable esc with a reverse motor option? Sorry, Im new at this and just trying to learn.
I watched your video on both the Sanwa and the Futuba for No Prep. Does the Futuba have the 9 point adjustment like the Sanwa? In your opinion which one would be best for No Prep? Also I would love to see a review on the Radiolink RC8X. Its a Futuba clone with all the ramping and 9 points of adjustment. Great job!