Join me on my adventure through life in my 1983 fj60 Toyota Landcruiser, 1986 Porsche 911, 2017 Toyota Tundra, and 1978 Skipjack 24. I love the great outdoors, and getting away from it all. At the same time, I love entrepreneurship and own two companies, www.coophomegoods.com & www.riversourcelogistics.com .
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I'm a big fan of overlanding , van life , fishing , investing , dogs , all things diy , and working with my hands. I'm especially a fan of the dude named Jesus.
Thank you …I just purchased one and a pressure switch is highly recommended…and you video made it the most imply way to do it …definitely using your method….well done 👍
if anyone is attempting to do this with the AllTop Twin Cylinder compressor, the 1/8" to 1/8" extender is way too small for that hole. Apparently all of these compressors aren't the same with different names.
The end caps are NOT meant to be removed. Just slide the insert back toward the center, lift up and pull out. Install the same way in reverse. Not sure how he got the end caps off but they are meant to be fixed.
The factory unit has a pressure relief switch built into the inline gauge which you deleted, I'm not sure if I just missed it, but where did you put it on yours as it's a very important safety item? Thanks
you're right about the OEM blades. They don't last as long as you'd think. My just completely broke in pieces. Had to order aftermarket that are made out of silicone.
If you have a clay bar kit or one you didnt fully use, spray some lubricant on the windshield and use the clay bar on the windshield. Then use a ceramic coating on it and it'll keep your windshield nice and clean for a good while
Make sure the thread sealant is completely dry before testing it, also u can use a silicon caulk instead of the thread sealant just make its dry before using it. ALuminum manifolds are good but they tend to leak at times specially if u over tight the fittings, due softer nature of aluminum they tend to expand and or crack.
I'd probably just unplug the wire from the factory switch and use that lead to one side of the pressure switch then make a new lead for the other...no butt connectors needed. If the wires to short I'd desolder it and start fresh...less failure points. I'm likely going to gar a bit further and ditch the board and wimpy power leads in favor of a big relay.
Functionally operates just as it should ru-vid.comUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.
Those metal clips always wear out the weak metal threads on the valve stems. A clip on right angle rubber type is actually better. Psi matters more when airing down. The difference between 14 and 15 psi doesn’t matter but 6 and 5 psi can be a serious issue. Especially deep snow 5 and 4 psi.
I really wanted to make one, I already use flexible for the pressure cleaner and my single air hose, after pricing up the parts I found the TUFF TERRAIN MULTI TYRE DEFLATOR KIT (4 VALVE) is priced at 96usd or 149 aud, parts are price here in Australia
I got the same error initially that prk assiat is not available when Iam prking in garage and sode wall is 2-3ft away. It also says side pillar cam is blocked and park assist unavailable. Now a days it says aide pillar cam is blocked and prk assist degraded. I still do not get the inches when park assist is degraded or earlier park assist not available. Tesla replaced side camera but still the same issue. Iam on 2023.12.5 no USS 2023 M3LR
I own a Toyota land cruiser bj60 wagon... Everything is standard and now its 39 years old... Just got issue with the electrical output... Should i upgrade the altenator or just upgrade all wiring that connect to the altenator?
Let’s be honest. If you bought a new car without the sensors you should be pissed. We were all screwed. And we all need to get together and show Tesla/Elon we’re pissed, otherwise he’ll keep taking advantage of us. Stop being super fans. They will not get better if we’re not 100% honest. The new vision update IDEA is cool, but in reality it’s TRASH. This is all the best of the best engineers could do in 6 months? It’s not going to get much better. Not with the current hardware. And retrofitting will not be an option, so we’re screwed. I suggest selling your Tesla now before HW4 is released.
Not ready? No, not at alll, and I am afraid it will never get ready anymore. After all, if this is the best Tesla engineers can come up with, I am no longer optimistic about further improvements, given they themselves no doubt have already done the same (disappointing) tests as the ones shown here and elsewhere. It remains just impossible to guess in a reliable way what is on blind spots that are not covered by a camera.
My old Ford Focus from 2015 just does this with a few ultrasonic sensors and it completely reliable, doesn't matter if it's raining, if bright day or night. Why Tesla, why.
Probably because it’s too dark and the cameras are geeking out with the lighting or/and humidity… my car is bad too. Didn’t expect anything less after the removal of the sensors though.
2 things 1) Eyeballing it to claim the distance is wrong is not an appropriate way to disprove whether something is correct or not. 2) The front camera is notoriously the one with the most reported issues in 100% accurate distance. It'd be better to show distances from sides, and rear as well to get a good idea if it's working as intended.
