Hello, my name is Klavs. On this channel, you will find videos about DIY, car repair, traveling, and vlogs. We all have to overcome many obstacles, and it's not easy to do it alone. I created this channel to share my experiences and the lessons I learn while doing things or just living life. Please use the email provided to contact me or join the discord (Link provided).
It all depends on what style of connector you got. Some of the bulbs ground in the light fixture itself, some of them have a ground following the wiring. Did you check if the led is the same voltage , amp usage as the standard bulb? Sounds like grounding / power issue
I think I did mention all this info on the first video, but if I remembered correctly, the company or the name doesn't matter the oil viscosity and grade matters ( 75w-80) GL-4
You're my friend Klavs, and i love you! But your thermal paste application was....OK 😅 I don't mean to sound like a 'know it all" guy, but from my experience with building computers or restoring laptops/consoles, you should spread out the compound to a even thin layer all over the chip to ensure the heat will spread out well. Because this method you use can lead to there being naked spots on the chip since you can't know for sure if the whole chip is covered, and it can lead to overheating issues down the road 😏 But overall, nice upgrade 😊
😂 Oh I know it was horrible. You are correct, to be 100% sure, you have to spread it out all over the chips. I didn't have any doubts about the Noctua paste, that one will do good. The other thermal paste was a big yikes 😅 ( had to do Cinebench test to check if the thermal paste on the GPU and power delivery chips does a good job or if it's a re-do job. 👌 Yup, the laptop did need them upgrades, now it's usable
I use a 8mm hose at the drain of the radiator on my diesel gh only four or five inches but it then drains nicely into a pan. I cannot say for the petrol, but the diesel gh has enough room to reach down to the drain valve. But as you were renewing the thermostat, removing the undercovers was necessary. I hope that the original coolant is compatible with the Mazda fl22. The end of your video where you compared the new and the existing coolant worries me. Only because we know that you haven't drained the expansion vessel. I enjoy your content and your haphazard editing style, if there is a mistake you own it. keep it up and keep it coming.
The new coolant used is Mazda OEM FL22 coolant. I'm aware I didn't drain the expansion tank and the heater core. Glad you like the video. 👍 Oh yeah, If I mess up, then I mess up, that is my own stupidity 😂 You can bet the videos will be coming. 👌
If you are flexible and have a good touch/ feel coordination Yes. Otherwise with all the clips and tabs to be removed, would rather take off the bumper and save yourself from the pain
What kind of rubbing sound is it? metal to metal or rubber to metal. That could be anything, lose bolts, wrong installment that the alignment is incorrect, other components have failed, wheels rubbing on suspension, the list goes on.
Without looking at the left side suspension, it's a guessing game. you have there anti-roll bar, upper suspension arm, shock, the wheel could rub on the wheel arch if the plastics clips haven't been put back in properly. For now I can guess.
Bought a Mazda 6 GH a few months back and your videos are a true source of inspiration, such an amazing amount of information, I can't believe it. Too bad these are not such popular cars and the information is rarely available. With that in mind, do you know if there is a factory solution to remove the roof rails that the M6 comes with, and cover the holes? I'm looking to remove the roof rails but I want a factory solution to cover the holes and protect everything from the weather, so it looks OEM.
👌Welcome to the Jap cars, that have a rust issue club😅😂 The underside needs to be treated, if you live in a wet climate. I'm actually working on preparing the video for this exact question you have. Yes, there is a factory solution to that. ( I will be making a video on how to do it in the future, once I get all the materials/ stuff needed) Buy ''Roof Rail Rack Moulding Clip Cover'' for your model. Sadly only sedans come with a flap that can be lifted and closed again, for a slick and OEM look. Estates have longer roof rails, that aren't made in 1 piece
Hi mate. Yes, I got this one on Ebay, it arrived with the gasket already installed, but I still did double check if it's sitting correctly. ( nobody wants a leaky thermostat right after changing it).
Hi. I didn't had any symptoms, but there could be: Engine overheats ( thermostat stuck closed) Engine doesn't get up to temperature ( thermostat stuck open) Leak's from thermostat.
I did it today but the button i bought had only 2 wires and original has 6 can't find anywhere with 6 wires maybe i'll try junkyard. But on video this looks harder than it is . Cheers
Good luck and you should be able to find it. Maybe the 2 wire are only for the button, the rest of the wires go to the sensor that picks up your hand when you grab the handle
Thanks to you and this video, I saw that my new Mazda also has traces of corrosion in this place. Fortunately, not as much as yours, just a few traces, although mine is from 2007. Greetings from Poland! Zoom-Zoom!
👋 oooh Hello. That sounds alright, but you should check your Mazda wheel arches and underside, as the GH Mazda's from factory have really weak or no rust prohibiting coating
Hi, thanks for sharing this video. A good way to know the challenges. May I know the tools required for the removal of the crashpad? What type/ size of wrench used? Thank you in advance.
😅 Oh, good luck to you and don't forget to plug everything back up. If I recall correctly it's mostly Philips + screw driver, 10 mm and 12 mm nuts / bolts.
@@KlavsX_ Thanks to your input Brother.. I just received the crashpad I ordered online. Planning to install it by myself this Saturday following the sequence in your video.. By the way, how long do you think I need to remove and install the new crashpad? Thank you in advance.. .
You are welcome. Thumb of rule for such jobs is: If you doing the job first time it will take 2x longer than it should. For me it was around 3 hrs to remove the dashboard.
@@KlavsX_ Thanks for the response. Really appreciate it.. Will start early in the morning then so at least if I encounter any hiccups, I will have a chance to fix it in the same day. Cheers! Will get in touch again if I have any further question to ask.. Have a great day ahead. God bless.. .
✌ You are welcome. I wish you luck and hope it goes fast and is easy for you. 👍 Sure, ask away, If you need to. Thank you, and the same goes for you, have a great one 👋
Thank you for your videos on the Mazda 6 GH. I have the same problems as you. You started with the EGR valve. It was a good idea because it pointed out the problems. Now you have replaced the two O2 sensors. Do you think that all the problems came from the two sensors only? If so, I will start with that. What do you think?
👍 You are welcome. Going through all of that, I suspect that the first o2 sensor was the main trouble maker ( The one closer to engine). I still haven't checked the situation with fuel pump and the filter, that could be one of the causes
@@KlavsX_ I also have the fuel filter on my list. I will order a new filter and the O2 sensors today. Then I'll have a look. The air mass sensor would also be a possibility. I hope that's the right word in English. I mean the sensor at the top of the air filter, you can try cleaning it.
I will order a new fuel pump assembly and filter. As I have no idea if the pump has been changed or not. MAF sensor - mass air flow sensor, you are correct, but MAF problems throw a error code on the dashboard, and car will 100% idle really rough
hola Klavs,podria mencionar por este conducto las medidas de los dados y llaves que utilizaste para desmontar la marcha ,saludos de matamoros México ...
That could be many reasons why. Without a scan tool or the car showing sign's of failing parts, it will be a guessing game. How much I seen, MAF sensor could be bad, stuck injector, O ring perished, EGR valve problems, vacuum leak, the car battery could be running flat and making the system go crazy. Without diagnostic I can only guess
Nice but... 1. I don't want to calculate what fueling my complete tank may cost. Can i just say 100 bucks and then fuel up let's say only for 55 bucks, whatever it costs fueling up the tank? 2. Sitting in the car for 2 minutes doing nothing but typing on the phone... the others in the cue behind me will be annoyed i think. And at the end i don't spare much time. I usually wait longer at the pump cueue than at the cashier cueue. Du you really use this feature?
🤔 Why do you want to calculate something? just put the amount you want to fill up, once the tank is full, the pump will stop, and how much went inside, that amount will be charged. 😅 eem, if you are waiting in line for the pump, why don't you do ''all that'' while waiting? You can see the pump number from a distance. All you must do once it's your turn is press pay and fuel up. No need to walk inside or to the cashier. Aren't the same 2 minutes you sit in the car using the app, the same amount for you go to the cashier, pay, and return to your car? The only downside I see for this app is human interaction, no need to go to the cashier or inside a building. I'm using this app all the time, as I live in a big city and don't want to wait in line while somebody orders hot dogs, then gets a lottery ticket and decides they want ice cream. 😅😅😅 ( Extra bonus you get the receipt in your email, easy to do taxes if you do business drives)
@@KlavsX_ Ok so it doesn't matter if i set a too high amount of money in the app, i only pay what i fueled up. Makes sense. I didn't think of using the app while waiting for the pump because i thought i can't do that while someone is using the pump. But i only have to wait with the final confirmation ok i understand. Thanks your information helps a lot. Maybe i will do that.
👍 Glad I could help. Yeah, you pay what you put in your tank. You will have an email with all the information. No, you 100% can put in the pump NR, choose how much you wanna spend, and once you are parked at the pump and ready to go out fuel up, press pay, wait for the confirmation, and on you go.
around 200050 miles. You are correct, 60k km is the best time to change it, if you want to make sure your transmission is happy. For me this car is '' new'' to me, so I have no idea when was the last service, could have been 100000 miles ago, I got no clue.
