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Ok damn thought it was 300hp motor but description said nitrous applied to thats ok. I really want to get 250-300hp out of mine but everyone saying just supercharge it top swap but used market for parts is something ridiculous not worth it for daily driving and such.
We had a 260 Rwhp that was completely N/A, the 300 goal is off the bottle, it's a goal we don't know if we can achieve it but I believe we can if not it'll be close.
Do you know where to get AVRDUDE I've installed it but when I try and open it it just pops up CMD for a split second and then nothing ? Idk if I'm suppose to do anything to actually made it open or somthing I have arduino serial to usb adapter, obdxpro GT, usbasp isp avr programmer and 27C256 256K Eprom IC trying to using the obdxpro GT and mod it to be aldl or the serial to usb to aldl for vs v6 so I can interface with the ecu
@@CHR0M3x yea you got a point there as its turned out alot more technical then I expected to begin with haha you could replace the standard memcal with a SST flash chip right ? Is there a way I can make or use the current items I have to be able to read my standard memcal to look at the tune / bin
@@CHR0M3x ah yep are the sst chips flash programmable and eraseable or do you still need the eprom burner and uv some say they don't need the uv eraser but do need the programmer like the gq4x4
You will need the programmer still but using that you will be able to erase those SST chips, they're an EEPROM (electronically erasable) whereas memcal are just EPROM.
I wouldn't personally recommend attempting this unless you can test on bench etc and know exactly what's going on, I'm willing to take the risk myself but yeah still there are a lot of unknowns in this.
Haha, trust me, I'm still trying to wrap my head around it, that's why I didn't go into full detail in the video, I don't fully understand it myself currently.
Maybe you should watch the whole video and see the difference for yourself, the difference is not just a sticker at all, the hardware is a lot better on the genuine, been tried and tested multiple times, fakes give codes, misfires and just general weird stuff the genuine does not, that's if the fake even works, nothing is staged or sponsored the eBay one legitimately didn't work out of the box. Give this video because the exhaust is so stock etc you can't really tell the difference but on a car with open exhaust etc the difference is huge, the genuine is a lot faster responding, sounds better, doesn't cause codes etc.
From my experience and I've done this a bit, the cheaper ones wear out quickly and don't work anywhere near as well, this $50 cable is a mid range, the high end are 150+, I have a lot of people messaging me having issues and a lot of the times it's cheap cables.
im excited to see each video and for the end result i cant wait to see it on the pad. once a car that i gambled with to buy from auction for the motor to almost sending it to scrap . This is gonna turn out to be one of the sickest builds ive seen😎
Cheers, ahh next weeks video we will be mainly covering the remainder of the trans cooler install, we only have 4 weeks left now, a lot to do and a few companies have helped out and sent us parts, we hopefully have a high stall to put in, a full spool with 3.9 gears (that's gonna be a fun video), motor to assemble and show more of.. There is a lot to do and not a lot of time to do it 😅
This one is a .500 boost valve, a bigger boost valve essentially increases the pressure to all components, so increases shift pressures etc across the board marginally.
Next time you pull the servo cover out of a 4l60 get a pick under the blue oring and cut it and pull it out . The servo cover will just then slide out .
That limiter is what everyone does, it's not a spark cut, it's more spark retard with a lot of fuel sounds awful imo, but people are free to like what they like.
Having trouble loading this logo.. the edited photo will save to the save as file but won't appear in the open folder file. Seems like it's changing it from a png file to map file. Can't seem to find out why? Any help would be great 👍 thanks dan
Sup, only cams and haltech for 250 at the wheel? Looking to get an ecotec skid car and im wondering what i can do for more power keeping it na for more reliability
Definitely not only a cam and haltech haha and the haltech has nothing to do with the power, went 260 Rwhp on a dyno on factory tuned ecu, if you go slapping this cam and nothing else on an eco I doubt you'd get close to these numbers. Had valve job, machined heads and manifold heaps of compression, e85 etc etc, there's a list in the haltech build video.
You can use whatever software you like, it's the same principle, we had Photoshop so we did it with that but you can use any software that does photo editing if you know how to use it.
Honestly I don't know enough about the Buicks to recommend anything, don't worry about power so much at first, get a good seat and locker and hydro, seat will help a load, get used to it at standard power level then bump it up.
you dont show where the original file image is in the haltec file- and how to copy it and edit it- you skip over all the actual specific details- im in my living room trying to follow your steps and cant even begin to find where the background image is to even edit it
All the steps are covered, what you are saying isn't covered specifically is covered 1:15 - 1:30, we literally open the haltech file and pull the PNG out, we even say it's this one and mention the name of it, so don't know how you figure it's not covered.
@@CHR0M3x ok then how do we open the file with winrow or whatever what software do i needto dowload? any way can pay you to upload logo and send me file ?
Depending on what your setup is it might be fine haha, there's a few scenarios working together to undo mine, no balance shaft, more rpm then usual, sustained rpm, spacers etc haha all played a part.
I rebuilt a eco took it to 2 track days and I was driving it and the same things happened I was so up set. I can't believe you had the same thing happened can send pictures to prove
Cheers, yeah look it doesn't usually happen but is probably common sense to locktite bolts that have a change to go down there, but seemed very far fetched and unlikely 😅 Next motor will be bigger and better and all documented on here.
@@CHR0M3x I recently had to take my top manifold off, noticed a bit of locktite on the threads, so I’ll make sure the threads are cleaned and it’s re applied when bolting it back on. I’m a bit nervous about getting the top spacer now after seeing that happen mate haha. Can’t wait to see the next video 👌🏽
@@Billi-JaiKnight You should be fine as long as they are locktite etc lol, but yeah just keep in mind those spacers is what allowed the room for it to happen, without them it would of just likely stayed in the hole.