Did you use the space between the back of the cabinet and the back of the top drawer to install the 2x4’s? Did they interfere with the drawers in any way? I have some space between the cabinet back and the back of the drawers and I’m thinking I might need to add the 2x4’s like you did to support a 14” overhang of my butcher block top.
Yes, thankfully there was enough space behind the drawer to fit the 2x4 in my case. I definitely recommend it, as I feel like it added considerable strength for the brackets!
I have went through right many videos on building ramps and really like the idea of you making the top section longer than alot I have seen. Some looked right sketchy in this area. All my vehicles are SUVs so I may skip the doweled rear block because I already have 2 chalks that I use at the boat ramp but must say that is a great idea and may incorporate it later and I may add an inch or 2 to the other layers but not the top one also!! Thanks for posting the video. Bible verse was pretty cool also.
Thanks! I can’t remember exactly where I got these, but if you look up “garage hooks” on Amazon there’s quite a few. Here’s a pretty similar one that I found: amzn.to/3BBF5io
Had the head of my trimmer break, was going absolutely mad trying to figure out how to remove it. Eventually I remembered the internet exists and stumbled in here… much easier solution than what I was trying.
I can’t find the exact ones I have, but these are some very similar ones from Amazon: amzn.to/3ziyWa6 (affiliate link - I will receive a small commission if you purchase these at no extra cost to you!)
I would try pulling it with pliers or a vise grip, but if that doesn’t work you could cut your fuel line about an inch on either side of the filter to remove it (as long as there’s enough slack). If you don’t have enough slack, you could cut it and then purchase a replacement line for one side (they’re usually a few dollars from the auto parts store).
Thank you thank you thank you! I have been trying to find a way to set up a stop block on my Dewalt miter saw. But my boards are either too narrow, or the screws are too long, etc etc. This is a great alternative that is SOOO easy -- just what I needed!!
I haven’t encountered that issue so I’m not quite sure how to navigate that. I would check out the user manual for your model and confirm that is the correct way to replace the part on your model. If it is, maybe try some WD40 to loosen it up.
The replacement head that I purchased actually came with a few different nuts, so I didn’t have to remove the nut from the old head. The nut that was in place when I first opened the new one was pretty loose and I was able to pull it out with my fingers.
How did you determine the optimal spacing per layer on your car. You have inspired me to build my own ramp and would like optimal spacing based on my wheel/tire size as well. Thank you kindly
To be completely honest, I can’t remember an exact formula or calculations of how I did it, but these are the general steps I went through. First, measure the width of your tire where it’s within an inch of the ground and add 18 inches to it. That’s probably a good formula to determine an approximate size of the top layer. From there, I would just add 8 or so inches per layer that you plan to add. Fortunately, this design is pretty forgiving so you could make it a bit longer or shorter and would be fine either way. Hope that helps!
Bonne idée, mais les butées risquent d'éclater très rapidement car tu les as percées dans les sens des fibres, elles vont s'ouvrir. Pour les chevilles, tu perces, mets la première, la coupe au raz en place, puis idem pour la deuxième, ainsi l'entraxe est parfait et la longueur conforme à chaque trou directement. Sinon tu mets les mêmes longueurs partout. 👍✌️
Which side of the spark plug should you actually go off of with this tool? Like yours, you said .030, but if you go off of the other side, it's .033. All the videos on here are all over the place. I'd say you go off the furthest part.
That’s a good point - after thinking it through I agree with your assessment that the furthest would be most accurate, since it would have to be open that far to reach the furthest point out.
ru-vid.comsqsSLzwhhIM?si=f0eJrLlye3Iui6PU think mine is a little different than yours. I misplaced my owners manual and low on funds so I have to do this myself. Thank you for your help
Sorry for the late reply. I’m having trouble opening the links you provided. I would recommend looking for the serial number on your model and then using that to determine the year it was made. From there you should be able to find a manual if you search through the Murray manuals for those years. You can also look for the spark plug boot that connects to the plug under the hood. It should look the same on pretty much any model.
Can you help? If I get one of these and screw into this location to fasten my book case to the wall how do I know it’s not a pipe etc? How do the experts do this
Great question! Some stud finders have more advanced features than mine does for detecting what’s behind a wall, but there’s a few things you can do to help avoid pipes without buying a more advanced one. First is noting the width of the object detected by the stud finder. A 2x4 stud will be approximately 1.5” thick. You can also check the distance to the next stud. Studs are generally spaced 16” apart (in the US) so that’s a pretty good indication as well. Depending on the age of your house, you can also sometimes see small circles on the wall that are drywall screws/nails. If you see those in a vertical line, that would also indicate a stud.
