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I got a '75 F11B torn apart all over my house. I bought it from Kaplan Cycles in Connecticut. I started tearing it apart as soon as it was delivered. Right now I'm waiting on the bearing pullers to be delivered. I got the bearings and seals for both hubs and as soon as I get the engine split I'm going to do the bearings in it.
Having issues with the placement of the tumbler and the key cylinder as it attaches to the actuator I had it in but the key would not turn back to lock position (so engine would not stop also the acc would not turn back because it basically stopped at the “RUN” position Any ideas would be appreciated
Our Jennair stove convection fan always goes on recently. Never did before while using conventional baking. We never used convection, but now the fan always kicks on. Why all the sudden this is happening? THUMBS UP!!!
so 50mm bore 55 mm stroke with 10.9.1 compression will need how much air and how much richening on the carburator that is 20mm fuel side and 32mm air inlet?is there an actual solution?
I'm chasing a reliable idle on my Amazon Kippa FCR39 and this video is helping. My carb has BOTH a fuel screw and an air screw. It's an incredibly annoying task, and I'm sure my neighbors hate me!
@@thejunkman It definitely has both. I purchased an extended fuel screw for the bottom of the carb to adjust on the fly, and there's an adjustable slow air screw right under the bell of the intake that changes the idle as well. It's on my DRZ400.
I see. I missed that you have replaced your stock carb with this "knock off" FCR. I am not intimately familiar with that specific carburetor, but here is what I would do. Start with the them at some baseline and then adjust them independently until you achieve a good idle mixture and no bogging off idle.
I had that exact bike. All souped up. Pipe and weisco piston bored 30over and ported rotary valve and re jet carb. It was a beast. Just kept breaking chains
Just picked up a XB 9 S Lightning, a showbike from austria, for around 5.000 € and 12k miles on it. Not mint condition but really good as far as I could judge. Love the bike. Have to do some maintanance and change the oil pump drive
Great video. I don't have that exact problem. I have no accessory so I can listen to my stereo without the key switch in the on position. My key switch moves fluidly but the key switch does not turn backward for the accessory. As I turn the key forward to start, It has play and a catch as if there is an accessory forward not backward just before turning the switch to start.
Awesome tip, saves people money from dealership, just swapped mine, and wouldn't you know my socket driver and extension popped the passenger side, thanks Bro!!!
Thank you for this resource, I'm about to embark on the restoration of my grandfather's 67 F2 (I think, will compare details with your website to confirm).
Hi I need that part I believe but for a 97 Ford f150 the rack part number. Can you help me with this. Just to be sure that is the price that engaged with the geer at the end of the key switch
let me honest with ya only idiot people put 28mm carb on 57mm blok xD even my self, only using 26mm carb cause my intake valve was 31mm ex 25mm cause I was concern bout to match intake diaeter with carb diameter size for better engine performance...... cause I be honest with ya, intake diamter on the head, should be less 10 percent thant valve intake size, like was I had, 31mm in valve, so I should use atleast 28 in diameter hole in the head, also match with intake manifold should be in 28mm and also the carb should be 28mm to for stable air flow, but 28mm carb diameter was 29 mm, so, using 26mm should be enough for had decent airspeed flow through that carb... I tell this I'am already did this before and it's run fine without any problem like bog or something like that. and also, try multiple pilot jet and main jet for better throthole response.. cyaaaa