@@naveedalexandrov6455 megasquirt 3 is the ECU, (with ms3x expansion) and the default tuning software is Tunerstudio. It's changed a lot over the years and pretty stellar these days, though all the functionality will be determined by the ECU and firmware. Boost by gear for example can be programmed/tuned, but only for firmwares that support it.

Thank you for your patience and checking in! I've just added SIX new files to the listed on thingiverse for printing on smaller printers. You should be able to print two quarter A and two quarter B pieces on your printer and glue them together. www.thingiverse.com/thing:6705894 You can also use the "single A/B" sets to make a V4 V6 V8 V10 or whatever size you want!

How high are you revving it and and for how long? The stock 2.3 ecoboost turbo is a tiny little unit, you should have no problem spooling it up. Does it build any boost revving it in gear (gently) with your foot hard on the brake? If you truly can't get it into boost in neutral I would sooner assume it's something Ford has done to prevent it in the tune, not a mechanical limitation.

@@UnderTheSky-st8hf what printer do you have? I've been debating making a "v4" version you could then Lego together. Would make this printable on most printers.

@@nathanshobe my printer is elegoo neptune 4pro.If other version can be suitable i will be wait

@@UnderTheSky-st8hf the Neptune 4 Pro is a good printer. Can do a lot with them. I'm running the Neptune 4 Max. The pro has a bed of 225 x 225 which is a touch small for this file. Give me another couple weeks to see if I can make a version cut in half for printing on smaller printers like yours.

@@UnderTheSky-st8hf also, best advice I have is to make sure your bed is as level as possible. Try to get the variance under 0.15mm if you can. The more level the bed to begin with the easier things are. Also set your z-offset manually as you watch your first layer. Get used to watching it start. Makes everything go easier.

@@nathanshobei will try, thanks for everything man 🖤

@@LittleGripGarage totally wicked. If y'all can put it to use maybe I'll put a v2 (or v3) one in the mail in a few months.

@@UnderTheSky-st8hf V2 is less than a week away if you can wait. Get your printer calibrated with your slicer of choice to start with. Pays big dividends in the long run. I prefer orcaslicer.

@@nathanshobe Okay i will wait V2,i downloaded Cura but i will try orcaslicer(tomarrow i will take printer).Thanks for comments 🙏

In theory, yes, it would just take a long time. To do this with tunerstudio you're basically turning a square image on/off so the overlay order has to be perfect and the placement has to be pixel-perfect too. Tedious work

I'm not a diesel expert, but from what I know I'd say it's probably best not to drop RPMs too low while under load. Most Diesels have a fairly narrow window of when injection can take place and the injection pump is "timed" to the motor so staying within the range of which that pump is "tuned" is always a good idea. This is also why a lot of diesels run exhaust gas temp sensors, which gives a good indication of load on the engine. All that said, if idle is 500 rpm, I wouldn't be concerned about cruising along at 900 if the engine feels like it's running smooth. An engine is going to start bucking and sounding angry before any connecting rod breaks at low rpm. :-)

Well to be fair my ear has known these songs for 20 years now. And it's almost entirely power chords or octaves. Still fun to take the time to learn them though.

No modifications. People on the internet are ignorant and lacking experience. Comes down to engine vs turbine size. Unless you're using a turbo large enough to make 3x NA power it'll be able to make boost just revving it like this. Any OEM turbo setup like a Subaru WRX or mustang Ecoboost will do the same as in this video off the showroom floor.

@@nathanshobe Ok Nathan i have an another doubt too i have heard that high boost pressure at low rpm's bend connectings rods so is that due to boost itself or detonation caused by that boost?

@@nathanshobeAnd what if u keep the rpm's fixed at 5000 would the boost still be just above 0 as in the video or there is going to be some difference coz u just smashed the throttle in video so if u had got it to 5000rpm's slowly would there be any difference in boost ?

@@ujjwalstar9389 Detonation is bad, and will break things yes. But detonation should be prevent in the tune, not the driving manner. This is why even OEM vehicles with relatively high boost pressures (like the Civic Type R) don't destroy themselves with detonation, regardless of owner behavior. Now, you have to understand that the mechanical limits of the bottom end are TORQUE based, not HP based. So yes, even though you might only make 100hp, tossing 100psi at your engine at 2,000 RPM will likely break something unless your motor is build for that kind of torque capability (e.g. look at how diesel's are designed with tall pistons with big crowns and thick rods). Now, if you're tuning an engine for let's say 30psi, and that will produce 500 lb-ft of torque, it doesn't matter if you make that torque at 2,000 or 5,000, it's the same stress on the bottom end. The difference really is that you're more likely to break the bottom end in the higher RPM not because of torque, but because of harmonics and balance which become more critical as the engine reaches higher RPMs.

@@ujjwalstar9389 I reached wastegate pressure, as I said in the video. I don't have a boost controller solenoid on the engine, so that's as high as it would go. Now, if I'd revved slower, I'd have gotten to that boost level at LOWER rpm. Remember, turbos are decoupled from the engine. They don't know what RPM the engine is running at, and operate only on the gas pressure and velocity coming into the turbine. The turbo also has a self-feeding cycle about it. As you get into the pressure and flow region that will build boost, the engine will create more flow and pressure for a given RPM. Thus turbo spool is time dependent. The turbo will spool in different amounts of time and different RPMs, and of course at different loads. But to assume load is the only variable ignores basic physics and how turbos and engines operate as gas pumping devices.

I'm running d585 coils, used in some LS powered trucks/SUVs. I'm also using the diyautotube trigger disk in a 82-83 L28ET dizzy with has an optical pickup. Since there is so much slop I'm going to add a trigger on the crank pulley and leave the dizzy trigger in place for cam sync. As far as ECU I'm running MS3X so I'm not much help there. You'll be burning three outputs to do wasted spark, but that's still worth it over single coil based dizzy setups.

That's the likely outcome.

Yup. But that's a next-winter project.

@@nathanshobe just clean it up shove some cathair in it and go RATSUN

Not for sure, but I'm pretty sure it's the inner LCA bushing. I need to take the time to grease the joints one by one and see if it quiets down. At least, that's the advice I see around the web.

nick fisher Was off the outback, had 140k on the turbo, which the experts tell me is fantastic for this OEM turbo... :-(