My name is Roee Bloch I am just an Electronic freak with many years of experience I have experience in different fields of Electronics and Electronics Design This RU-vid channel is for Arduino beginners as well as experts here you can find many videos with Arduino examples and other electronics stuff I intend to upload 1-2 videos every week I will also include some programming examples, so you may use them Enjoy, Roee
It's not totally necessary to replace the button. You can open it by gently prying the metal cover off, removing the rubber button and the metal spring, and cleaning the contact surfaces (including the spring) with isopropyl alcohol + compressed air. I've done this to a couple of my mouses, including the Sculpt, and they work like new afterwards.
DAYSON COMPLETAMENTE INCAPACI MA PARLANO INGLESE! Dayson aspirapolvere senza fili che si rompe facilmente: I progettisti Dayson sono dei DEMENTI, se monti l'elettronica a bordo motore per di più saldata rigidamente tramite i contatti dello stesso motore, portando di conseguenza tutte le vibrazioni e le risonanze del motore che ruota a 110.000 Rmp sull'elettronica, è normale che prima o poi si scassa, lo capisce anche un bambino, di fatti è il guasto più comune in pochi anni di vita. Con quello che costa questo aspirapolvere mi aspettavo un risultato almeno decente. Mi pare che più che aspirare polvere sia stata progettato solo per ASPIRARE SOLDI ai malcapitati che la comprano, di fatti è Britannica gli stessi che hanno fatto i vaccini insieme agli USA che fanno la Tesla!
After I ruined a few batteries I stopped using fast chargers, good old 5V 2A is good enough if you plan accordingly, the only thing those fast chargers are good for is for powering a soldering iron or some other thing that needs a lot of power but not for charging smaller batteries. I got a charger from Aliexpress with 8 USB ports, 6 type A, 2 type C, up to 30W for port and 100W total, has a screen showing the V, A, W for every port, got wireless charging on top but I don't use wireless charging.
I've had a couple of V10 motor pulsing moments and all of those were due to carelessly discarded panty episodes I've experienced in the past, that being said I've never doubted my V10 for a minute for I knew that it's monkey strong bowels were girded with strength like the loins of a dragon ribboned with fat and the opulence of buffalo dung.
Hello ) Please help ) I changed 2 dead cell's and now from main + and - I'm measuring 52 volt but out from the board just 5 volt ( And reset button doesn't help ( Any way to restart a BMS ?
Hi! Great solution! Soldering the extra cable seems to help on my case. The sensor was not triggering at all. After soldering, it doesn't detect my hand when approaching to the sensor, but it does when my hand leaves the sensor area. Do you have any clue? Thanks!
I progettisti Dayson sono dei DEMENTI, se metti l'elettronica a bordo motore per di più saldato insieme per i contatti portando di conseguenza tutte le vibrazioni del motore sull'elettronica, è normale che prima o poi si scassa, lo capisce anche un bambino!
You dont need that plier, to remove that spring...because it's not so strong... Yesterday, i've disassambled my 8000's ... What can i say..that was dirty like the h3ll...
Thank you for video. Keep up good work. This video threw me back 10 years, but a lot has changed in the last decade. Many manufacturers have switched from pure nickel strips to nickel-plated strips or to hilumin nickel strips, primarily for perfecting spot welding in mass production and easy testing. Nickel-plated strips are much easier to weld than pure nickel, especially now that we have pocket spot welders that lack the power for pure nickel. All portable devices, electric scooters, bikes, and scooters should use nickel-plated strips due to the vibrations. Stationary devices can use pure nickel. The problem lies in the spot welding itself. Often, users weld the battery but never find themselves in a situation where they disassemble it and see the mistakes made during welding. For example, one needle might create a weld while another doesn’t. Also, if we suspect that a strip, for example 0.1x8, doesn’t have the capacity to handle the current, why don’t we double it or even use four layers to get 0.4x8? This would surely be better than 0.15x8 of pure nickel. If pure nickel were that good, the cells themselves would be made from pure nickel, but that’s not the case they usually made from hilumin - an electro nickel-plated steel strep. Our standard is 0.15x8 nickel plated steel and I adwise to you that you also use this standard for all battery production , for power tools just double or triple it.
Hey how did you wire the balancing wires? My bms came with a connector that has a jumper on it leaving only 9 wires instead of 11 *Edit: answer in the reply below.
I have a brought a second hand AEG 8000 series T8DEM842E. It ran one cycle for two hours. Next cycle made screeching sound and then stopped. I heard the motor trying to rotate but the drum not. I opened the side and released the belt. Motor makes sound but did not rotate. Opened the motor 3 magnets were loose. I cleaned the motor and pasted the magnets back. which rotated fine manually. Now on any cycle i choose, drum rotates half round seven-eight times with 15sec interval and stops. And after 5-to 8 minutes the machine turns off. No error code. The heating Icon keeps on blinking during this process. Any Idea ?
Hello everyone. Just diseambled one battery, checked how much ampeehours left - almost 3200 ah, but why does it last for a 3 days? Bateries doesnt discharge themselves, is it problem in PCB, maybe it "knows" how many cycles battery can be used? 😮
I'm not entirely sure but the mah left depends on the discharge rate. A slowly discharged battery might look fine. But once you increase draw the voltage might drop off very quickly. That is why your old phone withe the bad battery might hold its charge relatively fine in the drawer but when using it discharges very very quickly If the camera connects and does everything all at once it might draw somewhere of around 5-10 W. Try discharging it at 2-3 Amps and look what is left.
Have you tried a 9V battery? I bought LiitoKala Lii-D4XL for the purpose of charging 9V Ni-MH batteries but when I insert an empty or half empty 9V into the charger, the red charging light only appears for 5 seconds and then goes back to green and the battery doesn't charge. The batteries are new. So there is a big problem with at least Lii-4DXL models! I wonder if this one in the video works.
LiitoKala chargers are known to report wrong (fake) internal resistance of the batteries. They are unrealiable for thus! 128 mOhm is also the maximum value LiitoKala can display.
