Nope! The locking mechanism has nothing to do with the issues with keeping it in tune. Kahler also makes locking nuts and if that were the cure then the issue would be solved 100%. Keeping the rollers lubed and spinning goes without saying
You ought to buy yourself a food service squeeze bottle without the tip bored yet for that wood glue or repurpose and old mustard bottle to save on the amount. Have to cut open the retail bottle and spatula the last bit out of course.
What is the point to putting solder on the iron if you’re just heating up the fret? Wouldn’t just running the iron across the fret 8 or 10 times do the trick?
No, it’s not the same! I’ve found that the solder helps distribute the heat deep into the fret tang and slots and breaks down the glue better than Raw Dogging it. When you use solder the heat generated is greater and keeps the fret really hot when you stop. Using just the iron doesn't get the fret hot enough and the heat dissipates very quickly
I’ve been repairing and upgrading guitars since I bought my first one when I was 15. I’m 58 now. I don’t do it professionally, just for friends and family. I’ve only done two complete re-frets, mostly just level and crowns. I’ve never used heat before. It seems like a good idea but applying solder seems like extra work. I acquired a 70s 335 years ago and the previous owner apparently filed the frets completely flat. There’s not even enough to recrown them. I think I’ll try the solder/heat on that one.
@@malebolgia07I tell you, I never have any fretboards chipping on me when I use the soldering iron and solder. I apprenticed under Neal Moser and he taught me this trick from his days at BC Rich.
My prices are as follows: Neck w/o binding using nickel/silver frets (like on this video) $400. Neck w/Binding like a Les Paul and nickel/silver frets $500. Neck w/o binding and stainless steel frets $600. Neck w/binding and stainless steel frets $700
If it works for you, go nuts. I use it because solder does a better job at distributing the heat all the way down the fret to break down any glue that may have been used. I guess if I didn't have solder to use, I'd Raw Dog it straight on the fret but I have plenty of solder.
I have a mid eighties MIJ Charvel Charvette. it is white and and it has the Jackson style headstock. since it's actually a Jackson-Charvel. it has EMG pick-ups (non active). and a Floyd Rose, and it has one volume and one tone, and a three position switch, it has a humbucker at the bridge, and an agled single coil at the neck. it has twenty one ftets on a skinny neck. and Gotoh tuning machines. it's a really good guitar but it's only draw back is it's extremely heavy at almost twelve pounds.
DAMN that’s crazy. I suspect the body is made of maple or northern Ash which are both very heavy. Well if you’re in the greater Los Angeles area and need any work done, hit me up
Nice Job!! Looks great and that's a sick Charvette! I've got 2 questions... when using the titebond do you use a solvent or fine steel wool to clean up any leftover residue? ( i've always used a small amount of super glue and it's a bitch to clean up) also i saw you add a bit of solder to the fret when heating the frets for removal, i assume this helps to heat them better?? I use a soldering iron but never thought to add a little solder
I use 0000 steel wool to remove any residue the wood glue leaves behind. A very easy cleanup. The solder on the iron I’ve found works much better at transferring the heat to the fret and does a better job at breaking down any other glue that may have been used to install the original frets. The greater heat created by the solder also makes the wood expand a bit and makes the removal of the frets less likely to cause any chipping. I used to use super glue as well but the cleanup is messier and can be a huge pain. I much prefer wood glue because although it doesn’t actually adhere to the metal, using it in the slots like I do displaces all the air gaps and encapsulates the frets in place
Moshe is great and helped my a lot with purchasing the cam I needed for a .Kahler I bought thanks Moshe. Just found out about ur channel and subscribed. Looking forward to more of these videos
Yeah but not quite like a fulcrum. It's a non issue for me personally because I never do that with it. I don't quite understand why fluttering is such a big deal?
@@lofitypebeat1rexylabs has a flutter video the arm has to be snug and the heavy springs might help too it won't be as good as a recessed Floyd but good enough
Sure but it's no different than soldering the wrappings on the plain strings. Both great methods to keep the strings from breaking at the ball ends but I never have any breakage issues
Not really, the bending issue is still there if you solder the strings or use heat shrink tubing. I solder or use the tubing just to strengthen the strings at the ball end.
I've found that the reason why a guitar goes out of tune is because of at least one of two basic things, either the string "sticks" due to friction issues, or the string "slips" due to something being loose, when a string goes out of tune it is usually due to a change of tension acting on the string itself, so, to keep the string in tune the tension has to be kept constant, if a string goes sharp it is usually because of it sticking, if the string goes flat it is usually because of slippage.
The hacks I explain in this video are the best ways I've come across to help me stay in tune. I'm so used to playing Kahler tremolos that doing these things has become second nature to me and is no big deal. Thanks for sharing!
hey Moshe how you been? It's been a long time my friend. Nice to see somebody that knows about Kahlers giving good advice!! keep'm coming. I'm still trying to figure out whats going on with my ESP Jeff Hanneman Signature Series Custom Shop? Maybe between the both of us we can solve the problem..
I was running into tuning issues upon the restring. After restringing and tuning, it would gradually go out of tune over time. Over the span of one day it went from e standard to e flat. Granted, i had no idea about the bar dive for every string either. Great tips!
If you haven't already, join my Kahler fan page on Facebook. I have two: "Kahler Tremolo Fan Page" and "Kahler World" We have tons of people like myself who know how to work with Kahler tremolos. Thanks for watching!
Hey Moshe it was really great to meet you and spend some time talking with you today on the phone! I really appreciate the time you took to help me understand the Kahler MS trem system. Like I said there's just so many people putting out review videos they don't have a clue! These are really great videos Man!
@@MosheAlvarez hey buddy, sorry my RU-vid name is groovemetal81, this is Brad VanNorman....The nut from MI that tied you up for 2 hours LMAO! I watched Glenn fricker's review of the Happy cab... He was cracking me up with them guys look like a damn moving crew out there fighting a massive Bank safe or something! I think that's really cool that you have those ports to hear the back side of the speaker without the cabinet having to be open back! That is an innovation just like you said the v30 is worn out with the Mesa cabinet and any other cabinet you guys have breathed new life into the v30 but I like the fact he tried those other speakers in it! In fact my evh 5150 3 el34 model sounds awesome through my Peavey 212-6 cab with greenbacks!
Atta boy! ESP makes great guitars and I know this first hand. After I got canned from Carvin, I went to work at ESP in North Hollywood. I had some good times there and the guys there now are killer techs
@@MosheAlvarez I caught a glimpse of it when you walked over to plug in your guitar. I had a 2/90 and a Triaxis pre amp for a while. I always wanted the Colosseum 300 power amp. Nice gear you have and I enjoy your videos.🤘🤘
@@MosheAlvarezawesome. I'm picking up a Mesa Boogie Mark iv Revision B in a couple of weeks from a buddy. Im still on the look out for a Mark 3 black stripe preferably a Colosseum.
I can tell you the Mark IV rev B will kill the Mark III black stripe. I had a purple stripe Coli and I absolutely HATED it! I've found that for me, the black stripe/black dot/no Stripe and the purple stripe don't do it for me. They have a very nasty midrange that I could never get to sound good but the RED, Blue and GREEN stripe Mark III amps are LETHAL!
I much prefer a Kahler string lock like the one I have here but yes, a Kahler Locking nut is superior because it's made out of the same steel Kahler uses on their bridges. It's a very strong steel and the Kahler locking nut also has a string retainer built into it so you don't need a string retainer bar like you often find behind a Floyd Rose nut to keep the string angle down. Both a Kahler and FR locking nut have the same exact footprint BUT the Kahler uses SAE Imperial screws so the two holes on a FR nut don't quite line up with the Kahler nut but that's a very easy fix. All you need to do is plug the two holes and re-drill two new ones for the Kahler nut! BTW does the II-C in your name refer to a Mesa/Boogie Mark IIC+ ??
Helpful video, I just bought a DC150T that had the Kahler Pro but someone blocked it off with a wood plug to make it a TOM, now I need to route it out again. At least they put a now discontinued and valuable Schaller fine tuner bridge in it that was worth more than I paid for the guitar lol.
ok questions of the day...i have a guitar that is equipped with a floyd rose, now lets say i want to change it out with a ET or a kahler, is that at all possible? because fuck floyd rose, good luck tuning one 👍.
Absolutely you can! There’s still some routing required because the kahler is different from a FR but it’s not much. Kahler sells these adapter plates that would cover the recess on the top of the guitar so that the Kahler has something to sit on. I haven’t done an installation like that yet but it’s pretty simple for a qualified Tech/Luthier
@@MosheAlvarez actually what i was thinking about doing is completely plugging both front and back cavities with mahogany wood & then sanding it to make it flush with the body, then make the rout for the kahler.
The Gibson pickups were weak and didn’t have enough output. They were also too muddy in the low end and lacked bite. These Jank Tone pickups are a total redesigned humbucking pickup. They’re hot but remain tight on the low end and have a ton of punch without being compressed. Incredible clarity and punch
so a dive after every bend?? i will admit yours seems to be close to tune i have lost a half step moving my bar very little. mine is a kerry king signature model with a floyd nut soldered many a set of strings to try different brands whole nine yards i have never once been able to get my kahler to come back in tune after touching the bar any bit at all, guitar has been to a luther and 3 techs, 2 of them gave up knowing they wouldnt be paid. never been able to get any explanation as to why. Been playing with it locked for decades and tried to get it to work several hundreds of times... if i had a nickle for every time i said POS tremelo and locked it back down again.
If that’s what’s happening to you then I can almost guarantee that the two cam screws are too tight and need to be loosened about 1/4 turn at a time. What you’re describing is almost always the case when I field this very issue you’re having. Try it and check it again. If it gets better but not quite where it should be then loosen the screws a bit more. Eventually you’ll get to where it’s all good.
i set mine up this way and when i go to dive or pull up of the bar after tuning it still goes flat or sharp on the a string and g, its a brand new 2300 installed by a professional, i have a khaler locking nut aswell
AHH…I know the issue! Assuming the string lock/locking nut isn’t worn, what’s happening is the two cam screws holding the cam in the baseplate are too tight. These are the screws on the side of the baseplate. Try turning each screw counter clockwise about 1/4 turn each. What’s happening is those screws are too tight and are squeezing the ball bearings in the cam preventing the cam from moving freely. Try that and make sure when you use the bar that its movement doesn’t feel like it’s catching anywhere throughout its range. This should resolve the issue!
