I like some of the concept , but I would build the middle section with the doubler sticking out just an inch or so at each end , thus you can slide it into the rear , gives more glue surface / over lap be stronger , then add rest of doubler to front .. also a couple of weak spring clamps would help hold it while glue cools
Interesting, the little model you made with the two piece flap…you could add something similar to the leading edge of a wing too, alter the camber of the wing from flat to highly undercambered for extreme slow flight…an articulated airfoil.
I can't help much on the different sticks. I use either standard temp glue squirted into a puddle and allowed to cool a bit or RooClear Melamine cement. The RooClear is really good for gluing big broken pieces.
Paypal: sales@byrneos.com $50 for the hand creasing bar or $130 for the press (free ship to US, else email for info). we don't have a site up at the moment, but still have some stock...
Indeed, but finding good fits was tough for me. I tried a couple dozen different straws to only find a couple more good fits... for 3mm, the Dixie stir straws from office max. For 2.5mm it was the red stirrers from Staples. If anyone finds more please let us know... I love your channel. Thank you so much for the comment!
Nice project. I live in Portugal and i don't think it is possible to find that foam. Can you please tell me the possible names for that kind of foam? Or even the brands? Thanks
In the US it's know as "Adams Ready Board", and is sold through our dollar tree stores. There are similar products sold in office supply stores, but not quite the same. Flite Test sells a water resistant (and brown color) in 25 sheet boxes. Let me know what you find... I may be able to help from this end if you want some shipped over.
Thank you, this method is half the time, less work, increase accuracy on symmetry, and I happen to have engineer's scales in nearly every drawer in the house :)
Been building balsa over fifty years. New to foam board and a LOT cheaper! I started off watching FT videos and doing to "A"-"B" cutouts and stuff. Your folding technique is FAR superior! I'm wondering if we can't come up with a tube rolling device to compliment your bar(s)?
Really like your tool you made from squares to ensure the tubes stay square. Very clever. Subscribed. I can see how leaving the lamination film off so additional foam parts could be glued on would be an effective way to model just about any aircraft known, or imagined with a very effective core inside for RC gear. You are a very clever guy, to say the least.
I have mentioned this in one of your other videos, but Adams Readi-board is notorious for loosing it's paper skins way too easy. Bending the foam is one method to attempt to help keep the paper on, but it is very heavy, so naturally I remove it before starting any construction projects.
My first planes were super light, slow beginner planes that wouldn't penetrate or respond well in breezes... I had an easier time with more weight and power and ailerons. I take chances and crash a lot, so my goals were less build time and more strength and some weight is ok. I usually end up playing with the battery size and then balance by moving the wing position... Anyways, I also do hard points using binding posts and thin washers and some other ways to not pull the paper loose. Thank you for these comments. I've been putting off the videos way too long...
The double fold is a good way to make a fast wing since all you need for an airfoil is a spar in the 1/3 of width from the leading edge. Nice break tool idea for creasing foam to control where it will crush in when the foam board is bent. A bit more simple to make than what is normally used in sheet metal forming, but the fancy one looks to be well designed too. Reminds me of some of the basic ideas used in Experimental Airlines videos. As to bends vs glued joints, I prefer the glued joints since the glue bonds the foam parts almost as if a carbon fiber flat was used and stiffens the foam joint a lot, unless you are using a glue that stays soft and flexible more so then polyurethane glues. I tend to use the Gorilla brand glues, both foaming and non-foaming.
I started with flite test, Ed's (Experimental Airlines) videos and I really like Andrew Newton as well. Mostly I try to make things easier or simpler, then stronger, and occasionally lighter. I've done most the different ways. This seems better for structure, but not so much for shapes. Since I tend to ruin planes when I fly them...
Wow, the green label contact cement, which I haven't been able to find. Did you know most glues won't stick to Parchment paper that is used in baking, like cookies and such? It can also withstand temperatures up to the range of 450 F, but it will brown a bit in an oven that high.
You'll have to make your own patterns to fit the size you're aiming for. The template in the video shows where the right angles are. You can also sketch right on the foamboard to make a single part.
It's called "cold laminating" film and it is essentially a sheet of tape with backing paper. It comes in glossy and matte. 2.5 or 3 mil is common I think the glossy is better to apply shipping tape to... I get rolls on Ebay and it came out to about 66 cents a sheet. You can get smaller rolls at office stores, but the price per sheet gets pretty ugly. I would (did) sell sheets but the shipping cost kills the value. Please see my earlier video on laminating...
These are going to be 48" wingspan twins with a clarke Y airfoils and 2205 red bottom motors. I may have flashed a whole plane somewhere... It's my basic plane and I'm making copies. More soon. I feel bad for the delay. Very few views for many months and now a bunch... Thanks for watching!
Partly to get the desired shape and partly because the tail is best as a box, while the center needs to be flat and straight with stong sides. The front tapers to a nose and needs to allow battery access and mounting while also being strong. It was easiest to do in three sections for these planes, but you may wish to eliminate or add parts to suit your own needs... I'll continue the videos soon and some of my thinking may make more sense. I apologize greatly for the delay.
thanks for posting. but no cigar. here are some Commonsense things to consider. at :41, can you spell cf is HEAVY. (so let's use Lots of it, Right at the TAIL. doh.) ever hear of a POPLAR dowel. MOST HARDWARE/variety STORES HAVE SOME. do you not realize how easily one can Make a paper tube, of ANY diameter. but no, let's send off for some PROPRIETARY ones. this full-length piano hinge design is a case of lol OVER-building. it ONLY takes three smallish, hinges to do the job. cheers googletranslate
here are some things to consider. at 1:53, suggest you see my tutorial, regarding why it is CORRECT to mount a clark-y wing, at zero-degrees aoi. at 5:40, are we seeing DOUBLE-thick side panels. if so, YUK. there is a Concept in Correct airframe design. it goes like this. Make Every Component JUST robust ( Heavy ) enough to be Durable. considerable Weight would be 'saved', if some FORMERs were used. the use of formers accommodates the making of several, weight-REDUCING, tape-covered, panel CUTOUTS. it Should be Understood that where panel construction is used, UNLESS steps are taken to Reduce the amount of Mass aft of a model's c-m, the model WILL have a TAIL-HEAVY DOM. this will NEVER change, Unless Mass is REDUCED. if interested, see my tutorials. cheers googletranslate
Input noted and thank you. I've destroyed many planes in short order, both factory and scratch builds alike, so I was looking for more durability than single wall front sections were achieving. These methods are where that took me. Another aspect was making the planes adjustable in terms of wing position and incidence, battery position and size, easy to construct/rebuild and able to dissipate energy non destructively in crashes. Not too worried about appearance just yet. Thanks again
@@flingsair8240 I like where you are going with these ideas. Seems odd I haven't seen this video offered before until recently. Did you do anything special to get RU-vid to offer this video to watch?
@@wattwaster5936 Interesting to see your reply because I have wondered after watching the other methods why can't you just crease the foam like he does with that tool. I just wondered since the foam (I use dollar tree) is so easy to compress as is. It's all good though I guess :)
@@vet137 Since your question is addressed to me, I am wondering what I said for the question? I don't see a comment by me that said anything about creasing, or not.
