Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Having stripped and repaired an ST3000 drive, which is a slightly different design but following the same principal, my view on the orientation of the gear differs with yours. From looking at the design it makes logical sense that the offset or "hat" should be at the bottom. It creates a space between the gear body and the gear. Without it the entire face of the gear would be in contact with the body. When viewed from the side the pin the gear sits onto is flush with the top of the gear when the hat is at the bottom. A plastic shim then creates the required clearance between the rotating gear body the top of the gear bares against. Whether I am right or is open to debate, but it's how I reassembled as it made the most sense from an engineering perspective so I thought I would add my thoughts here for others to decide on merit when reassembling their own drives.
Thanks for the comments John….and you very well may be right. I tried it both ways and did not sense any significant difference, but your logic is sound. We will agree that the all of the gears should all be stacked the same way, even if we are not sure which way is the correct way. Cheers
@@TallyHo322 I just opened another one, this time observing the direction of the gears. This one had the "hat" to the bottom with all the small white cogs confirming my suspicions. The hat is to the bottom not to the top. I hope this helps
Many thanks for speedy reply, I found a clever way of Greasing the Shaft, am Surprised I've not seen this anywhere, hope is OK, I just loosened the 2 Clamps at the rear of the Rubber, and I slipped it forward, exposing the shaft in full, Greased it, then pulled the Rubber back where it was, and Nipped up the 2 Clamps, so easy the Black Lab Dog could do it, done my own risk assessment, I don't think I did the wrong thing, but now am back with the Purging issue in a few Weeks, Maybe Rag round the Rubber for protection, and a Mole Grip with the Jaws right open? But one wold have to be careful that it was well wrapped, am open to any more Suggestion
I don’t think you can do any harm adding grease the way you did(as long as you are out of the water), but it is unclear to me if you were able to get the grease up and between the 2 lip seals. But extra grease in the body won’t hurt anything… What happens if you squeeze the seal back an inch or so from the lip seal? If the rubber is soft, it should distort the seal enough to burp any air out I would think. It could be your seal is just really tight on the shaft…or it could be old…do you know when it was installed? You could try the rag and wrench approach. But if it the rubber has hardened, it could crack when you squeeze it. Good luck with the launch. I splashed Tally Ho today, but will be trying to get hauled out for a quick prop adjustment to my new variable pitch Max Prop. Not enough pitch at the moment…but it runs nice and smooth (3-blade). Greg
I have the same Dripless seal in a Yacht I just bought, needs to go in the Water soon, I tried Practice before the time comes in 2 weeks, I tried to purge it, but its Rock solid, I don't have the strength to squeeze it, or pull it back, any idea, also as the Boat is out of the water, could I grease it by slacking off the 2 Clamps the Bolts open with a Key then by pulling it forward is this a way of Greasing it, instead of using a Straw or syrange?
Good morning. Congrats on the new boat. A few thoughts on the dripless….1) they are hard but if you can’t squeeze it at all, maybe it is old and brittle…and should be replaced. I think that the recommendation is every 10 years or so. Easy enough to do while the boat is out of the water. It is hard to get the grease under the lip seal…what I did this week, was get a drinking straw, squeeze some grease from the Volvo grease tube into the end of the straw ( also allows you to see how much you are using), then flatten the end of the straw to get it under the lip seal, and squeeze the grease into the seal that way. Adding grease from the wide end won’t really work, as you need the grease at the lip seals, which would be hard to reach from the wide end. Good luck! I am launching Tally Ho today….cant wait. Greg
Hi Mark. You can use most brand springs in the Barlow winch….i would just check them to make sure they look the same. I also four a bag of springs and pawls at a marine flea market that I use as backups. Greg
My compass has a small fill-screw, which is how I fill the compass (using the small syringe -without a needle). Then once it is full, I pull the string out, and put the screw back in. Mine has a little o-ring on the screw to seal the compass. If your bottom diaphragm or the gasket under the globe is bad, then you will need some sort of rebuild kit. I took mine all apart once, but now, I just refill in the spring if it leaked some out and got an air bubble in it. Mine holds up over the summer, but gets an air bubble over the winter. Greg
Hello Jose, I don't use anything special to fill my compass. I just buy low-odor mineral oil. I get it at my local big-box home improvement store in the paint section.
Hi Greg, nice video. Thanks for sharing. For the benefit of other readers, I also have the O'Day 322. (1988) I have been putting off changing out my cutlass bearing for some years now, so I don't have a prop puller. I have the same Michigan 2 blade prop as you, from the factory. It limits the RPM to about 3000 WOT in use, though the engine will go to about 3400 in neutral. I believe the throttle cable is the limiting factor in getting to 3600. So, the boat has been slightly over-propped from the factory all these years. But it gets me 6.2 kts at 2500, and about 6.7 WOT, so I am happy. Looking forward to your review of the MaxProp in the spring. Best,
I think I am over propped as well. I can get 3200 RPM's, but I start to get unburned fuel out the exhaust. Boat moves fairly well in flat water though, as you said. I will provide an update once I launch Tally Ho in the spring with the new Max Prop. Cheers, Greg
It makes no sense to use metal gearing when the other part of the drive, namely the outer body is plastic. In the event of a jam, the metal gears would destroy the teeth in the outer plastic casing, which in effect would destroy the entire drive. Plastic was used for good reason. It's light, hard wearing and in many applications a plastic gear is actually designed in, to act as a sacrificial part due to the fact that it's cheap and easily replaced as opposed to some of the other more complex and expensive parts.
Thank you for the video . I am curious about the seal performance? How many hours have you made since you installed it? Does it leak ? Thank you for your time.
Mine does not leak at all. I think that this was my first full season with it. I don’t put many hours on my motor (I run the engine 15 mins out of marina and 15 minutes back in generally). I did do a few longer motors this season, but probably not more than 100 hours total. But my prop does spin under sail (just bought a new feathering prop to that won’t be true next year). Not sure how many hours or mikes under the keel this year, but I think I sailed around 40 days over the summer. I really like the simplicity of the single piece seal. And the fact that is totally leak free. Highly recommend it.
Yes! You are correct. I read that somewhere, but didn’t want to pull the prop to switch them around :-). I am not sure of the reason for that, but I have heard that. I am going to install a 3-blade MaxProp or FlexoFold over the winter. Leaning toward the MaxProp. Thanks for watching. Greg
@@TallyHo322 Hello, I've bought O'Day 322, 1987 with a lot of replaced parts and almost new sails. My first job will be to remove propeller and replace cutlass bearing. Your videos are great help. Thank you.
Awesome technique! I don't have the shepherd's hook - I just hook to the cleat and hope for the best! I put a snubber in the line! Nice soft landing! Fair winds!!
Good advice. I usually give it a little “squeeze” every time I open my engine water intake valve (which is right down by my shaft seal). And add grease before I launch in the spring (I am out of the water for about 6 months up here near Chicago).
I had a 35’ sailboat and rigged two lines in a V cradle to catch The bow as I was coming in , just reached over and attached one spring line to the rear cleat by the wheel and I was in ! Sailed many times by myself, great set up never hit the dock or the other boat ! P.S. make sure you make a knot 24” or so in the V line so the bow won’t hit the dock !
That would be great, except we don’t have any pilings or piers between my slipmate and me, so no place to tie off one leg of the V. One guy on my dock made a V out of 2x4’s…sort of captures the bow between the finger pier on one side and the 2x4 thing on the other. When my son and I were taking lessons on a Catalina 36, my son was at the helm, and came in a bit hot…the instructor started off “a little more reverse…”. Then …A little MORE reverse… then HARD REVERSE! I cringed as I thought we were going to hit the concrete dock pretty hard…. But I noticed a line tied between the piers on either side of the slip, and a “net” of some kind to catch the boat and keep it from plowing into the dock! Whew! It was the slip they always used for training… I guess my son wasn’t the first one to come in a bit hot.
@@TallyHo322 your son was lucky! LOL . I think you might need to rethink the idea and come up with something really new ? Or always have hands to help dock ?
@@markchodroff250 We both were! I kept wondering who is going to be responsible (my son…which meant me) or the instructor! I have several friends on my dock, and they always come over to lend a hand when they see my me coming in…but I single-hand 95% of the time…so I don’t have crew most of the time. But all is good…my loop works great. Greg
Do all marine compasses have the same liquid in them? Does the bubble make any difference to the functioning of the compass, or it is just estetics and visability?
I believe that there can be some different liquids used. You should check your compass to see what it used. The bubble won’t necessarily affect accuracy of the compass unless the level is really low (uncovering the dial).
ЧТО ЗА РЕЗИНОВЫЙ ШЛАНГ.И ЧТО НАПИСАНО НА СИНЕЙ ПОЛОСЕ.МАРКА ТИП ШЛАНГА .КТО ПРОИЗВОДИТ.МНЕ НУЖЕН ТАКОЙ ШЛАНГ ДЛЯ САЛЬНИКОВОЙ КОРОБКИ.БЛАГОДАРЮ ЗА ОТВЕТ.
Nice single handed method. 2 questions A. What’s the hook made of? And how is it attached? B. The marina doesn’t have issue w something new attached to finger pier?
Hi Chris, the hook is a Shepard’s hook from a garden center. It has 2 short legs that would normally get stuck in the ground. I took a 2x6 and drilled 2 holes in it, to stick the legs of the Shepard’s hook into. Then I screwed the block of wood to the outside wood of my finger pier. My marina allows us to drill into the wood (at our own risk…if we drill into one of the plastic floats we are in trouble)… I had made a wooden hook (2x4 post and a cross arm) but it wasn’t quite tall enough and I pulled it off the pier one time backing out when my bow pulpit caught it. The metal,Shepard’s hook is pretty compact (narrow and straight up), takes less room on the finger pier, and in general looks better than my “hangman’s gallows” made out of wood. Cheers, Greg
Hello, Sorry for the delayed response...I was watching Ebay for responses. We can work out a sale and save some ebay fees I think. My email is Greg@WCWebs.net and my cell # is *(219) 240-6477. Give me a call or droop me an email and we can discuss....I am willing to sell for $500 + shipping if you are interested.... But I just lowered the price on ebay and SBO, so others may be interested as well.
Nice work. Two observations- 1- I believe that orange plastic collar you can see at 1:25 in the video is actually meant to be left in place as you’re moving the shaft in and out to protect the seal then removed once everything is lined up and connected. 2- Don’t forget to squeeze a bit of volvo shaft grease into the gland behind the first seal. Thanks for the video. Happy sailing.
Thanks for the comments. Once I got the seal over the end of the shaft, and the dimples in the shaft (any rough spots), I didn’t think I needed the plastic protector in place. But it certainly would ensure you didn’t snag the seal and ruin the the lips. Yep…got the grease in, and will add a little each season. I really like the seal. And having a dry bilge!
This is the best video I've seen to service a Lemar 16st winch. The procedure was clearly explained and a great tip regarding fitting the self tailing first. Thank you
Hi Greg. Sorry your season has come to an end. I have the ascenders and then got an older version of the MastMate web ladder. WHAT a huge improvement in going up and down the mast, and it stows in a small space. One of the ascenders is what I now use as a safety to the 2nd halyard. Bob, s/v Airworthy
So you like the web ladder? I just bought 2 Petzel ascenders and a grigri on eBay. I will use one attached to my home-made bosuns chair and the other to some foot loops to climb the mast. The Gri Gri will be used as a backup and for descending the halyard smoothly. My son is a rock climber and he he advising me on the parts to buy. Seems like a lot for climbing the mast 2x a year, but like my son said…if you fall 40 feet, it won’t matter that you only do it twice a year.
Without an air bubble, what happens when the fluid gets hot and expands? My Ritchie r-82 lost all of its fluid during a recent triple digit heat spell when my boat was stored on the trailer. Hottest temp I observed was 116f Apparently the seal between the dome/base failed. That’s where the fluid came out Thanks! I
I have some spots on my hull where the VC17 is flaking off. When you sanded your flaky spots down did you put anything over the sanded spot before painting it? Thanks
The spindle of the motor on my ST4000+ Mark 1 was stuck. With a gentle use of pliers I got it to trun, but it does not spin freely. Any suggestions for what I can do to free it up?
Hi Tony, I am not sure if you mean the motor won’t turn freely, or the gear that turns the belt sprocket won’t turn. If it the motor gear, you can buy a replacement motor. That would be an easy fix (but not necessary cheap). If you cannot turn the gear that turns the belt sprocket, you could open and disassemble the gearbox. There are ALOT of little plastic gears in there, and you should carefully document how it comes apart…so you can clean and reassemble it. A little 3 in 1 machine oil is all I put in mine. If you are not sure which one is the problem, you can separate the motor from the gearbox…so you can check each one independently. I connected my motor to a 12-volt battery while testing, so I could see what was what. Finally if you can’t figure it out (or cannot fix it), you can find used parts for the ST4000+. I upgraded recently to the ST6001 for my O’Day 322, and have the 4000+ all put together to list on eBay. If you are interested, let me know. Good luck! Having a working AP is a great resource. I couldn’t single-hand nearly as safely without it. Cheer, Greg
I dont know..I suspect temperature / pressure fluctuation, and maybe it can leak a little (or get air in somehow). I refilled mine back in November 2021, and it is still looking great in September 2022. I think if it loses the "pressure" on the diaphragm, then temperature and pressure variations will cause the air bubble. So, "pulling the diaphragm" down some while filling, holding it there, and tightening the fill screw is the key.
nothing evident. could have been the fill plug, but no real sign of the leak. The compass has been on the boat since April 1, and no air bubble…so I am happy.
Thank you for your post, I am keen to get stuck in and service my barlow Australia 27 self tailing winch however I can not get off the top claw, can you help? I have tried to put a Allan key in each whole and use a long file and wd40 to turn but they will not move, i can't even get it off my boat because someone painted over the bolts etc. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Tracy, what I did was take a short piece of wood, and drill 2 screws into the wood, letting the tips poke through the board. I placed the screws as far apart as the 2 holes in the retainer plate on the winch. Then I just put the board over the winch, poking the screws into the 2 holes, and then use the board to give it a twist. I have never had one that didn’t unscrew that way. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey, at least here in the US 😎 Once the retainer is unscrewed, then slide the drum and the “top claw” up together. The bearings may stick in the drum, but that is ok. Just lift them straight up and off the main shaft. I hope you can get it apart.
@@TallyHo322 great, thank you I'll give it a go and get back to you. I read about using a sea spanner too but never heard or seen one of those. Thank you again
@@tracymcgrouther975 this vide shows the little wooden tool I use…about 1:30 into the video… ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UbAQkJ_V7IQ.html
