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that was my first option! but rather went with metal one... now after some time I see fiberboard would be as good as I don't really have anything heavy mounted on it lol
Cool project! I can offer you some tips for improvements to test, if you like: You don't need to print the whole part in 100% infill. CNC Kitchen published a test on which parameters are more impactful on the strength of the part and tldr, the perimeters are much more important for strength. Maybe try printing with 6 walls and top/bottom shells and 30% infill. You will save on material, weight and print-time aswell. Made with Layers recently also published a video on infill patterns and the best allrounder there was cubic, so I would recommend that. Also, you could try another type of filament, ABS GF. It is infused with glasfiber which makes it stiffer aswell as lighter. you could save a little more weight there and maybe even go down on the number of perimeters while printing. For your issues with the supports with PA, you could take advantage of your AMS and use another filament as the support interface, one that doesn't stick too much to PA. ASA is supposed to be a good choice here, though I personally haven't tested that. PA itself has a really good layer adhesion, which makes removing supports harder.
thanks will check it out! Not necessarily looking for more stiffness. The PC is very strong, but still cracks too easy on impact. When I compare the printed wheels to the originals, I am able to push and deform the originals a bit by hand. So I need to print it in something more elastic which would be the PA, TPU is too soft. I know about the option to print the support in different filament and might try it with PVA but just don't print that way as that takes soo much extra time.
I use what is basically a grow tent, vent hose has an inline fan which I feed into a big cylindrical carbon filter which is way overkill for the small enclosure but works a treat. Search “grow tent carbon filter” to see what I’m talking about. I also run an air purifier with carbon filter in the room for when I’m not using the enclosure, like with PLA and PETG.
inline fan is in the plan for Ventilation 2.0.. :) tent is a good idea, even with ventilation on the smell still gets out of the printer through all of these small gaps etc..
@@therealfazee No smell gets out due to the pressure differential. When I turn the fan on to its lowest setting the sides of the enclosure are pulled in, even with gaps in the zipper for power (printer and lighting) and Teflon tubing for external spool or AMS. I use the enclosure for resin printing too and never smelled a hint of anything even with resin that is definitely not low odor. Of course I eventually have to open the enclosure eventually, that’s when I kick the air purifier to high. I’ve also covered the HVAC intake on that floor. I live in a 3 story townhouse; printing stuff is on the mostly-unused first floor (laundry, garage, front door). My setup isn’t as good as just venting straight outside but it’s the best I could do and honestly works better than I’d hoped.
awesome video! I see you have the AMS. Whe printing PETG, you should try to use PLA for support (or support interface to minimize waste). PLA and PETG does not stick, so youll get super clean prints where the support meets the print. Z distance = 0.
Thanks. Yes I know about it but never printed this way (even have support filament that came with the printer). I rarely use AMS to combine the filaments as the print process jumps from hours to days lol! Like I did here, I rather split model in separate color parts and print faster: ru-vid.comk-Rw3RSZkEM ... but thanks for input planning to print some in future with PVA support filament :)
@@therealfazee like honestly I watched all of your videos and the work you put into it is great and that fact that instead of using other peoples creations you just use your own skill😃😃
The only issue I have with these is what market is there for this kind of thing, ie who would have it lit in a dark room - it's not bright enough to provide any helpful light and doesn't work if there is any light source in the room already. No disrespect to your skills and outcome (and I have printed a sample curved lithophane which looks great) but I'm just wondering how this could actually be used
Hi friend, your project looks really good. Congratulations. Wouldn't it be worth using an extra fan? Are you using the printer's own fan? Friend, I don't know how to make 3D objects. Can you please share the project files? Thank you very much in advance. 
Yes I'm only using the printer fan. I guess it would be ok to add an inline fan, planning it for V2 if I ever get to make it (together with relay on the valve so I don't have to open it manually)
pretty close :) my nephew got P1S combo on the weekend and wow that machine is probably even better choice when you are tight on budget.. it doesn't have the fancy stuff like huge screen or carbon filter but is built same way
@@mtphotoutah oh wow.. I guess the PLA might survive but kinda worried about the center of the wheel, as you can see in the end of my video, the stock plastic rim got chewed up where the metal meets plastic.. at the moment I'm printing a rim from polycarbonate, planning to do ASA, and already printed PETG and will put them all into test
@@therealfazee I have been using 3d printed hex nuts on the wheels for years and just recently had one wear out. I haven't tried anything over 3s though, yet. Sand tires in a softer TPU has worked great!
I've been using 3d printed parts on my son's RC basher, it's saved me tons of money in new bodies and other parts because they break as opposed to the more expensive parts (and cost me a lot less to replace)
thank you for uploading this i felt like i went through each step and revision with you. i appreciate the time you took in documenting your journey and fleshing out the video. i’m thankful you saw it as a learning opportunity because i certainly learned something too.
potentially dumb question: is venting REQUIRED for the X1C? I'm planning on getting one but It would have to be in my room. (Noise isn't a factor to me, im not worried about the smell either) but I'm trying to find information on if it's actually required. I'm thinking about getting this one over the P1P because I heard it's print quality is overall better than the P1P. Thanks in advance!!!
Print quality can be the same if you calibrate your filament which is generally easier with the X1C which can do it automatically thanks to the lidar. However auto calibration doesn’t work with sparkly or translucent filament. I only print in an enclosure when I’m printing ASA or PC, but I also run an air purifier in the room with a carbon filter because printing with any filament gives off VOCs.
Did you try and print the actual light box? I tried and it keeps failing. Printing in mid air inside. There was nothing to support I even tried that but no support got added.
I'm not really that proficient in Onshape. I watched thread tutorial on YT and making it was basically trial/error process haha. I believe those tutorials will describe it better than I ever would.
thankfully it's a covered patio, but it could still be helpful to a little sloped ledge above the top of the outlet, to reduce the risk of water ingress. (and also caulk the outer part's flange to the door). also, maybe a very thin layer of some squishy silicone rubber or foam on the interface between the vent and the printer, to prevent leakage. because the fan is inside the printer, the adapter where you connect the hose is at a positive pressure, meaning any gaps will leak exhaust back out into the room
the hose is connected with magnets, the hose will just detach and flop to the floor. it's also magneted to the back of the printer, so it's unclear which end will detach first, but that doesn't matter here since either way, you just... stick it back on and everything's fine.
I have issue using this website for pics. every time I download my stl it converts is to zip file and I cannot open it. is there a way to have it download in zip?
I am currently building a vent system that circulate the air through a HEPA filter and only let air out of the enclosure if it is getting too hot. The flow of the system is controlled by a small RPI hat and is connected to an air quality monitor. I wanted to use the RPI cause I already have one for Octoprint, but it would probably have been better to just run the ventilation off a Arduino. One thing that I am really careful about is draft inside the enclosure. I will let PPM values get a little high during prints rather than circulating too hard. Instead I will circulate and vent once the prints are done. I like your designs and also found Onshape a very valuable tool for these projects. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
@@therealfazee That is actually not correct. It is true that HEPA filters list their rating and effectiveness for 0.3 micron particles, but that is because those "medium-sized" (medium as far ultra fine particles goes) are the hardest to be catched by use of a filter. A bit counter intuitive, but both larger AND smaller than 0.3 micron particles will get stuck in the filter easier than the 0.3 micron ones will.
What are the cons of adding an inlet fan to the exhaust pipe? I still get plenty of VOC's (smells) coming out from the top/front. Venting the main exhaust and auxiliary exhaust on the other side a bad idea? The air flow that would be sucked in would come from the poop opening. I was thinking could add a small heater chamber that can heat the air being sucked in to control temp to keep the chamber at desired temp and maintain a good airflow that takes all the harmful air out and away.
the draft going out will make your bed vary in actual temprature as its not a circulated heated enviroment pulling in cold air that will cause cold pockets idside the build area and your alignments out of tollerances like the cold pockets shrink and the hotter areas expand you get a pretzel
