Im a professional Electrician and Plumber with over 25 years in the industry. I like making things, building things, and often badly, trying to explain things... On this channel I'll show some of my day to day work, and maybe some things that I do out of work.
Looks presentable and a generally neat job, but should never join main equipotential bonding cables with screw terminals, needs to be a straight through mechanical crimp. You should also do your r1+r2 readings on each circuit with CPC disconnected from the earth bar to prove that the circuit is not using a parallel earth path
Glad you enjoyed it. The secondary heat shrink was fitted to bridge the air gap between lugs, it was a little closer than expected so it just gave some extra protection. Sometimes you just have to work with that you have, and that was what we had available 👍
You’re right, it’s just to confirm each of the parallel feeds are correctly paired up. Recording an accurate resistance reading for cables this big over such a short distance doesn’t achieve much. It’s easier to confirm it using manufactures values rather than the meter.
Nice effect, LED tape jobs always take longer than any client thinks. In the new year i’ve a kitchen to redo with LED tape and a new kitchen. How do you approach lighting below kitchen base units when theres a dishwasher door opening?
Hi Steven, thanks for watching the video 👍 It’s tricky when you get an appliance like that. If the client was not concerned about it being out of sight I’d probably router an aluminium profile into the front of the plinth and then fit an opaque diffuser over to it, that way your unlikely to see any of the dots in the tape. You can get loads of different profiles for the tape, this site has a decent choice, I buy most of my parts from here. www.ultraleds.co.uk/led-profiles.html
@@moss_electrical_and_plumbing Just a thanks for pointing me in the direction of Ultra LEDs, Used them for the job and they were very helpfull in helping with selecting the right product. Jobs looks spot on. Thanks again for the info
Помню ещё при Брежневе сокращали школы в небольших поселках. У нас в Калининградской обл раньше небольшие школы были даже на хуторах! Ничего не придумываю, так как сам учился по 4 й класс на хуторе.Один учитель на 4 класса. В две смены.Здание школы ещё стоит.
As a recently retired Industrial JIB Gold Card approved electrician of 50 years i would say its a decent job,the only thing i would comment on is early in my career working for the biggest electrical companies in England we would never use brass bushes in this type of installation we would use paxolin between trunking and any distribution board,and the bonding earths look a tad untidy perhaps you should have fitted a trunking tee piece and extended the small trunking into the 6x6 trunking and fitted the earth block within the trunking and put a label on the trunking lid showing that the connections were within in the trunking
Hi David Thanks for taking the time to comment. In hindsight I would have fitted a T piece as well, but at the time of installation it didn’t cross my mind. I like the idea of putting the earthing block in the trunking, I’ll consider that for future projects 👍
@moss_electrical_and_plumbing u have a gap between boxes therefore Single insulated cable unprotected between boxes. Bush would be like a condit. Although personally, I would ut s coupler between boxes. No way I'd do it like that
@moss_electrical_and_plumbing well still. Between enclosures... I just wouldn't. Same way I wouldn't do that between two patress boxes. Use double insulated cable, coupler, or Bush.
Why did you choose to mount it so low and offset from original position? Seems like you have used a lot of wall space that could have been used for future shelving, etc. and a lot of extra material. Not a criticism, just wondering how you and the homeowner came to the decision?
The client needed it to be lowered for easier access, and wanted to potentially build a cabinet around the consumer unit and boiler at a later date. The garage is huge, so no lack space for racking and shelving at a later date.
It's also embodied in Building Regs now........ AD M1...... switches 1350-1450 off the floor..... Out of reach from kids, but accessible for maintenance, e.g. RCD testing... Like all regs, not retrospective, but if you can bring an existing within latest regs, it's gotta be a positive!
I'm a relatively new Electrician, changed careers in my mid 30s, now 43, and I found this fascinating and informative. Will definitely be looking into this technique in the future for extending boards.
This the final video that I filmed as part of a consumer unit changeover. I bring the pre assembled and wired board to site, remove the existing one and carry out the consumer unit changeover. As with all jobs, if I were to do it again I would do some parts of it differently. I cut a slot in the top of the junction box as a cable entry, on future jobs I would definitely install stuffing glands to allow easy sealing of the top surface. Replacing a consumer unit is never the same twice, and every time I do it, I learn new techniques and methods that I try to employ on future jobs. In a previous videos you saw me cut the steel trunking and assemble the board and main junction box, and also pre wire the board and junction box ready to take to site.
Thanks for watching. Your right, it made the install much easier in the day. I’ll have a video out soon of the installation on site so keep a look out 😀👍
I don’t understand what the typo was supposed to mean! 🤔 I saw the Wiska kit and it look good. I would have used it but it only does up to 9 cables if I remember correctly? This board was quite big so need quite a few terminals
I didn’t torque them on the bench as they would rattle around in the way to the job, I saved that for the final install. This is the video of it being fitted m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y6lrWJX3av4.html
