I put the electronics for this thing in a proper "teslapunk" casing made from brass, but other than that, my Tesla coil experiments have been put on hold for some time. I was struck with Covid-19, and I am still suffering from lingering fatigue and brain fog, so my time for hobby electronics has been limited lately. But thanks for your comment!
@@GURONTV This coil was never fully documented. See the comment below for a link to another coil which does have schematics. No guarantees, though, my coil experiments a few years ago were all pretty random and (to be honest) sloppy builds.
A link to schematics is in the first comment to this slightly longer video of the same coil: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j9yiased1dY.html The link is: weber.itn.liu.se/~stegu76/minitesla/
Any chance you could post a build tutorial? If not any advice on how to build the blade? I'm trying to build a basic strip led lightsaber blade but am a complete novice with electronics lol! Also the led strips i bought are to dim
This is not a light saber proper. It's three naked high intensity, high density warm white 12V LED strips mounted on a 10x10 mm square aluminium tube for cooling, and I put a soft PVC hose over it for some protection. It wouldn't withstand any hard hits and certainly no dueling, and it's ugly to look at, it was made to work as a floodlight. Also, it uses four Li-ion cells in series for power. I had a few cells from a partly faulty accumulator pack for a power tool -- buying them new would have been too expensive. For better build help and a nice saber hobby community, check out crucible.hubbe.net
Sorry, what? It's pushing a cube through a hole in another cube of the same size. What did you find hard to understand? This is a serious attempt at visualizaton of something I didn't see well explained elsewhere at the time, 14 years ago.
Thanks! I agree that the blade would look better with a diffuser,, but the plastic tubes I had were too opaque, which made the light much dimmer. I am building a "proper" RGB light saber next, and that one will have a diffusing outer shell. This was more of a silly by-product, a rough prototype built from junk I had lying around. That it ended up working as an almost insanely bright flashlight was mere coincidence.
Hi Stefan. I saw your 5 dof pantograph micromanipulator video. I'd like to make the 3d printing version. We might collaborate together, I want to give you the credits for the initial design. Contact me please.
Sounds like a fun project! That design is largely borrowed from various old school mechanical micromanipulators, and I can't really claim any significant design rights to it. For a commercial application, you might want to check what design patents there are from one or two actors who are still marketing mechanical manipulators. I forget their names, but I found the designs by random Googling at the time. Good luck with the project!
The IGBTs that were available at the time I built this (2018) couldn't handle high frequencies. Coils this small resonate at around 1-2 MHz. For my larger coils, I use IGBTs throughout. IGBTs are getting better, and a few years have passed, so you could have a look at the data sheets. However, there is a fundamental problem with a larger capacitance in the IGBT gate, meaning that IGBTs will require a lot more current to drive them as rapid switches, going from full on to full off in a fraction of a microsecond. But, as I said, check the datasheets. Modern semiconductors evolve rapidly.
Beats me. I wonder where all my subscribers and viewers come from all of a sudden, commenting on decades-old videos I made for friends. Some "influencer" clicked a random video of mine by mistake?
@@Spexare Matt Parker over on Stand-up Maths made a video very much on this topic, and he mentioned it on his podcast. I guess the algorithm noticed this was relevant...
Sorry, moved the web folder in a misdirected cleanup effort. The link location is restored now. To answer your question, I built my own boost regulator from scraps taken from a computer power supply and what I had in my component drawers. Most of the stuff I had was 20-30 years old, so my choices were limited...
Hello! is it possible to get a few pictures of the book? I really like it and I want to make a pop-up too and This book is very helpful :) How can I get them from you if you are willing to do that :)
You can learn to make basic pop up structures here on RU-vid, there are some tutorials. Or go buy a Pop up book and study it. This one is pretty complicated. Photos of it wouldn't help much.
This is the only schematic I made: www.itn.liu.se/~stegu76/minitesla/mini_qcw_sstc.png It's complete, but some component values might be missing, and the descriptive text is partly in Swedish. I do not recommend building this, as it was only a very quick and dirty prototype. A proper QCW driver stage for longer ramp durations and a longer streamer would require more current from the bus, a full bridge to make better use of the available voltage, and proper surge protection diodes. The single IRF840 is not good at handling voltage spikes or back current.
The schematics are linked right here, in the comments. Note that the secondary coil uses very, very thin wire (0,1 mm) to get that many turns on such a short coil.
Correct the title of the video... Its not a QCW. It is a staccato. In case of a QCW, it produces way more bigger spark than this....about 10 times longer spark than the length of the coil.
Perhaps that would have been a more appropriate name for this particular demo, but I think not. I am not an avid coiler, this was just a quick hack for my own amusement. However, it's using the same kind of ramp shaping circuitry as a QCW, with a bus ramp created independently of the mains AC cycle, even though the ramp is short. I ran out of juice to maintain the primary bus voltage when I tried longer ramps, and the single MOSFET driving the primary actually blew up from burst dissipation (not average dissipation) when I tried for more than this short "staccato-like" cycle time. Note that this is nothing more than a rough prototype, as stated in the description, running off 35-40 V DC and using a boost converter to create a 0 to 130 V ramp over the course of 4 ms. I maintain that it is a QCW circuit, albeit with a flawed driver that doesn't come close to driving the very small coil to its maximum streamer length, and I will keep the title.
The link to the schematics seems to have been working so-so lately. I updated to use the actual name of the server, circumventing the redirect from "www." that seems to be half broken. My apologies to those who have been frustrated over a broken link.
By popular request, hand-drawn rough schematics are here, along with an oscilloscope plot of the bus voltage ramping from 0 to about 130 V DC during one pulse cycle: www.itn.liu.se/~stegu76/minitesla/ Please note that this is a very rough prototype, not meant for public consumption, and the driver circuit was dismantled within days. I was just fooling around with components I already had at home, experimenting to make my first ramped bus power supply. I can't even make any guarantees that the schematic is correct, but it was the drawing I made while building it.
@@tf3confirmedbuthv54 What are you on about? The full schematics is right there ^, in the first comment. It has been there since a few days after I posted the video.
@@Spexare Was referring to how people who build drsstcs have the stereotype of showing their build in a 30 second clip, and than nothing else, no schematic or anything. wasnt referring to you specifically
@@tf3confirmedbuthv54 Your comment is here, replying to a person requesting me to post schematics, with you saying "not happening". I'd say you were very obviously referring to me, and you should take better care to read before complaining.
Prince Rupert's cube has edges slightly larger (1.0606") units on each edge and is the solution to the problem of finding the largest cube that can fit through a unit cube.. See Wiki " Prince Rupert's cube"
Cool! I made some attempts at cutting out a real life model from styrofoam, with extra support for the thin cut-out cube using a metal wireframe, but I never got it precise enough. I had loose plans for a solid metal version, but it was too much work. 3D printing is really ideal for this!
