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Would have been nice to learn why the stopper can't be easily removed to tighten the drain or quickly remove it to fish out clogs. I removed the knob used to push and pull it just to see some odd fastener under it. What is done to remove the stopper?
Same here. I used 4 of these and only one held . The green PVC flex does not hold in the PVC fitting. The only glue I haven't tried is the weld on 795 which is used on flex PVC. At $50 a pop and 3 didn't hold.
Question; I will have a rain catch barrel I want to connect to a hydrant. Do you know at all the height distance I have to elevate the barrel to get decent water pressure down to the hydrant?
One foot of water at 62°F = 0.433 PSI, to find the PSI for any feet head not given in the table, multiply the feet head by 0.433. So for 30psi like most wells have thats about 70 feet in the air. You should probably get a pump
Long shot on this old video, but does anyone know the thread size of the bushing nut? While removing the old bushing I believe I may have damaged the threads in the housing and would like to run a tap through to clean them up if possible.
@@Siouxperman I ended up reaching out to the producer of the hydrant and they sent me a specification document from the engineers so I ended up with my answer. However I appreciate the people still read and reply to these comments
I have a really old hose bib and the packing nut is sealed/corroded to the point I can't remove it. Does anyone have a trick to remove this so I can fix my leaky spigot?
I have a Model 25. I noticed the other day that it is leaking when I just barley have the water turned on out of the drain holes. This also started after my wife accidently removed the vacuum break. I put the vacuum break on no problem. Do I need a repair kit or a new vacuum break or both. Thanks in advance.
vacuum breaker body piece. In my faucet, this part was glued in and I was nor able to get it out. I have chipped at it enough that I can get the old float out and could get a new float in. Any way I can fix it from here and avoid having to buy a complete faucet? I've watched your video several times. I very much appreciate you help.
Thanks for the tutorial. My two faucets would sometimes be hard to shut off, requiring backing off and retightening until the water flow stopped. The full repair kits cost ~$23 now at Home Depot ($50 to fix two faucets), but I found an online vendor who sells individual parts and bought just the washer at the end of the faucet rod (two washers, shipped, for ~$10 including shipping). I replaced those end washers and the issue is completely fixed. I will probably refurbish with the more expensive kit in the future if it starts acting up again, very simple to do.
Hang On To Your Shorts! - I finally got around to installing three of these repair kits on my 39 year old house (two of the were leaking). The first kit went in every bit as easy as demonstrated in this video Banda-Bing-Bada-Boom! The next two were examples of installs from Hell! On one of them thee left-hand threaded Headnut was mechanically "frozen" to the fixture... I even tried to 14" pipe wrenches... no luck. Had to break out the torch! After giving is some serious heat it finally broke free and the rest of the install wasn't too bad, On the last valve, I loosened the head nut okay but when I pulled out the control rod the rubber nipple portion of the plunger assembly was not on the end of the shaft but instead split in two pieces and stuck sideways at the end of the 12" tail pipe! I had to stand on my head to see what I was doing while digging out the plunger pieces suing a flashlight and coat hanger bent into a hook. Anyway.. all kits installed. No more leaks. Whew!
Tamara, some penetrating oil or some heat may help ease the piece up and then they can use something they can press against the wall of the casting and work at unthreading the piece or in some occasions patience and a small pick like tool to remove the broken off pieces. Expert Woodford customer care support also available at 1-800-308-0864. Woodford, The Choice of Professionals.
Twisting knob but wont turn on, any ideas. Worked a few days ago. Loews said try loosening screw in middke, did that but still no water comes out???@WCMind
Luke, you can go to BuyEagle.com and look for the Universal NuFit "Wrought Iron" finish which is Watco's Matte Black equivalent. buyeagle.biz/search?q=Wrought+iron - If you cannot find what you're looking for in searching, connect with Watco at 1-800-308-0864 and they can get you the correct model # to purchase on BuyEagle.com. This website is the official Watco and Woodford website. Watco, The Choice of Professionals and Always A Step Ahead.
I want to install a horizontal model in my garage where freezing temperatures may occur. I'm also mounting this over a wall hung sink that has a faucet mount ledge that extends 3 inches from the wall before the sink cavity starts. I need to know how far from the wall surface the male hose mount "chin" is to be able to have it with the correct length supply tubes and to know how much of a spacer I have to come up with. I have limited space in the heated area to play with. TIA
Hey, not sure if you can help me - I just moved into a place that has a similar Watco stopper-with-strainer already installed, but the water keeps backing up. I've already blown out the line past the tub-access (from the wall behind the tub faucet) but is there some way of removing this stopper to see if I can get it cleaned out?
I installed one of these and had to put the silicone, otherwise it would just leak. I noticed you didn't put any silicone. Whenever the tub fills up with water, the water will leak out of the tub.
That’s a completely separate issue and has nothing to do with what he did here. The overflow gasket on your tub or the gasket on the bottom of the tub is no good.
Video was very helpful, thanks. The gasket on mine was leaking too (no way to attach a picture here, but the one that drops out when you remove the assembly). It was a toss up between mail ordering parts for this horizontal model or trying to retrofit a more common style of anti-siphon "hydrant" that everyone carries. Doesn't really matter. None of the major home and hardware stores have parts for this. In the end, the repair wasn't any harder than planting something in the garden. I agree with the other comment which suggested the head nut gasket could be sold separately. Wouldn't be as much fun though. Would it?
Not impressed with this product at all. The cheap plastic overflow cover the ‘conveniently snaps in place’ fits quite loosely and really seems mire like the junk Home Depot sells.
JT, it's possible the retainer nut is on backwards. There’s a big difference how tight the chrome overflow snaps on if the nut is installed backwards. The Watco Innovator overflow plate installation is available here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5yZo7OkiY5E.html. Also, the Watco patented Innovator overflow was intentionally designed with corrosion-resistant plastic to stand up to the harsh conditions that can occur in a bathtub. Watco, the Choice of Professionals and Always A Step Ahead.
WCMind I have the retainer nut on correctly. In fact, I tried it both ways. However, if it does make a difference in the outcome shouldn’t you make the direction of the nut clear in your installation videos? Having to pause and zoom in isn’t how you make this clear. With that said, even in this video you referenced in your reply, the cap is clearly loose fitting. The person presses it on and you actually see the play in it. I’ll give it a week and I’ll bet that within that time my customer will call me back and complain about the loose cap.
Thank you for posting this video! You saved me some time, money, and probably a good bit of frustration. I thought I was going to have to replace the entire strainer body to change from chrome to bronze. A QuickTrim kit should take care of it nicely. The strainer would probably have been difficult to remove because whoever installed it when my house was built last year put an absurd amount of silicone sealer around its flange.
Could move the innovator overflow opening to the top and have a few more inches of water before the opening would begin releasing water back into the drain.
Companion to this video: www.woodfordmfg.com/Woodford/Troubleshooting/25%20-%2027%20Troubleshooting.pdf "NOTE: Older faucets with a plastic head nut and handle should be upgraded with the RK-25 Repair Kit, which will repair most common problems and upgrade the faucet to the current design. Faucets with a brass head nut may be repaired with the RK-25 Repair Kit or individual parts may be replaced per the instructions below. Note to installer: Do not lubricate any part of the RK-25 repair kit or faucet. Lubrication can cause accelerated deterioration of the rubber parts or cause abnormal operation of the faucet. ......... The plunger and drain valve are threaded on the rod. A couple pairs of vise grips will remove the parts from the rod. When reassembling the parts on the rod, do not over tighten or the rod may break at the threads. "
1980s house and spigot not repaired in at least 20+ years. Spigot had the plastic head nut, so I wasn't sure if the repair kit was correct. Unscrewing the bits from the rod proved impossible without the visegrips. Video was excellent for letting me know where the drain guard and head nut gasket went. (The drain guard previously was broken and in the wrong place, so everyone would get a bath if turning off the spigot when pressurized. Now the water sprays backwards at the wall. Nice. I love the self draining feature.)
Actually... that means its working correctly. The Woodford Model 25 faucet is a freeze proof faucet. When working correctly and/or was recently rebuilt using repair kit RK25 , when the valve is closed it will "purge or dump" all water from inside the tube assembly. Water will be forcefully discharged (due to water pressure) through the six holes located around the circumference of the head nut. When assembled correctly, the "Drain Guard" (the clear plastic ring included in the repair kit) covers the holes and disburses the water in a splashing but messy pattern that can get you wet. The purpose of the purge is to discharge any water in the line that could freeze and damage the assembly in cold weather. All that being said... the spray of water problem can be fixed! All you need to do is purchase and install a Woodford 50HA Back Flow Preventer (also known as a Vacuum Breaker) Installation of the vacuum breaker "does not" require you to disassemble your exiting faucet. It is simply an adapter that gets installed between your garden hose and your faucet hose bib. To see the Back Flow Preventer in action and how to keep from getting drenched, check out this RU-vid video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UjFuoQnRqWs.html NOTE: For anyone who has yet to order a RK-25 Repair Kit to rebuild their Wordford Model 25 faucet... see if you can locate a Woodford Repair kit RK-27 instead. It has all of the same exact components as the RK-25 kit only it also includes the 50HA Back Flow Preventer (Fair Warning - the RK-27 kit is hard to find).
Does it have a relief on the faucet itself also? Many houses would require removal of the sheet rock to install that, and do not have that depth behind the outside wall either. Many faucets break around here with the hose removed and water is trapped in the faucet because they are not designed to drain totally. Then there are the faucets that are on underground risers, so again that wouldn’t work. The pressure relief needs to be on the faucet itself. Idea is good application not so much.
Hello John, The pressure relief valve is inside the faucet from the factory. We also have a yard hydrant that won't rupture even if the hose is accidentally left on. That model is called the Y2 and has a 1 inch NPT inlet. Thank you for your feedback. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to call us at 800-621-6032.
I just repaired my 33-year old Woodford Model 25 which, starting about 6-months ago, dripped significantly when the faucet was ON, not when off. I purchased the repair kit and that totally fixed the problem. However, in examining the removed parts I believe that I only needed a Head Nut Gasket (30245), which would have only cost a little over a dollar. When I removed the original parts I noticed that the Head Nut Gasket was missing from the old assembly. Apparently, six months ago, it broke and disintegrated, causing the drip while on problem. Oh well, now the faucet is good for another 33 years.
