There is no need to use highly expensive oil such as shown in this video. Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is a full synthetic, low ash, that is compliant to M1 and M2 wet clutch requirements. Your important focus with wet clutch motorcycle engine oil are two things ... 1- Match up the second number given in your lubricant specification (aka for 20W 40) make sure your lubricant matches the 40 part, and does not exceed the 20W (cold viscosity) requirement. Going below the cold viscosity requirement is not a problem and is actually more desirable, because the engine will crank over easier, ans start faster, when it's cold. ... 2- make sure the oil meets Motorcycle wet clutch standards (M1 M2)....that must be stated on the bottle (usually on the rear panel) ..... Sometimes it will state JASO M, M1, M2. JASO simply means Japanese Standards, just like ANSI means American standards. Do Not use Automotive Grade oils as they Are Not designed to be use with Wet Clutch applications ... That said, If you have a motorcycle with an automatic transmission, A Dry Clutch, or CVT transmission, your engine oil will be different
Just found this vid in 2024. About 35 or so years ago that area was popular among guys riding ATV's. The buildings were more complete back then and the trees more sparse. You could see a good ways around the old track and there were still signs of its racing days with the occasional old wheel or tire, and a few areas where they buried tires half way to form a barrier. There was more dumping going on then though, it looks like someone cleaned it up a bit since the 80's. I remember piles of old appliances and car tires dumped out there. At that point some of the wood structure was still intact but was burnt, likely by forest fires in that area over the years. The whole one end of the tract was still showing burned trees about 15ft or so tall still standing in the woods. A buddy who knew the area and grew up there in the 50's said that the area had a huge forest fire in the early 60's that wiped out a good bit of what remained and the subsequent growth after the fire, which I believe may have burned again, is a lot of what your seeing today. Most of those larger trees don't look super old, maybe 50 years or so tops. There were few large trees when I was there back then. There were also signs of vagrants living in those old buildings, with makeshift tarps over sections and old whisky bottles strewn around too. The nearby areas at the time were also not the best and most didn't go there alone as it had a reputation in later years as a place for drug deals and such. It looks like much of that may have been solved but I see the dumping hasn't stopped. I'm too old to go exploring these day so its nice to see what became of the places we knew years ago.
Good instructions. One thing I may add is too keep the bearings in the freezer over night. they will press in a little easier. I keep a small refrigerator in my shop just for this among other things
Hi Mike, hope all is well for you & yours in 2024. I'm back because...after my 'perfect' rebuild I find oil on the garage floor after the winter break coming from the left fork. Went for a short (60 mile) ride and the next morning quite a bit more of oil on the floor. Any suggestions? Or do I have to do this all over again?! Update: watched some videos on using the seal mate tool (DIY) and gonna try that first. I'll get back to you here about my success/failure ratio... Addendum: well, that was kinda good for nothing...had to take the weight off the front end (floor jack to center stand) to expose that critical inch of fork (😛) to get the dust cap off but no matter where or how I could not get the Seal Mate to work! Managed to get it stuck in there but no way it was going to rotate around the fork 'a few times'. Joke's on me I supposed. Wiped everything down and cleaned it up, maybe my magic fingers succeeded where my pea-brain could not 🙃 Cheerios Mike! Addendum: took the leaker apart this morning and removed the guts (I really should've replaced the seals and bushings but they're almost new so I didn't). Not much oil left inside...lo and behold I found a mangled piece of plastic wrap in the works (that seal mate would not have been able to remove that). Your suggestion to use that as a softener to protect the seal when sliding it on over the inner tube. Didn't work well for me! Thanks again for EVERYTHING you've done for the FJR community - you are the go-to guy!
I just bought a 2014 ES and this is the 1st video I watched. Thank you so much for the concise and simple version with no BS.I change my own tires and this video is excellently done and made my life that much easier by watching this. Thanks 1000 times.
What a great informative video, I'm replacing my rear tire this week and my rear brakes are just about shot. I found this video and this is excellent. Thank you for sharing
Sorry, it was made by someone producing it on demand. As far as I know, It's not available any more. Check this video description. There are links to the person that made the device. Maybe he can make them again. Personally, healtech makes a similar product that's probably better and has support.. It's in the description.
Good video, Ive had these fitted to in the past to ZZR1400, they work very well and best upgrade to existing forks, any reason you didnt upgrade springs to Linear 10's as the FJR renowned for being "Soft" front and rear; and standard springs are progressive and tto soft? Im in UK and live close to K Tech and will be gettig this done by them to my FJR with uprated Springs, then upgrade rear shock to improve ride and match my new front end.
No real reason other than I did not have the money at the time to do both. After the upgrade, the frontend handled much better. I'm sure the springs would make it even better. I'm not getting a lot of sag and I have not moved them from the stock k-tech settings.
Thank you for showing me this wouldn’t be a massive hassle! Some bikes you have to remove the radiator to replace them. When I was ur video was 7 mins I was given hope! Then I watched it and it was confirmed an easy quick job! Now I can rest easy tonight! Thanks again!
I have a question for you. I removed my wheel and the seal around the rim spline is loose. Is that normal? Thanks. For reference the spline/ seal at 2:56
Hello, good idea. Not sure if that would affect dwell timing. I think there are some devices made for this purpose in custom automotive applications. Don't know much about them.
Yeah I know my old Honda cars with a distributor, switch the coil primary using an ICM which is switched by the ECU. I'm sure it looks a lot like a SSR that I've seen in industrial applications.
There is a section in the video showing a picture with circles around the adjustments. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of a camera man. With both hands busy, my hands blocked the adjusting. Did not notice until later. That's why the picture.
Hi Mike, The modifications you have made to your Gen 1 FJR are extremely similar to what I’m after! (I have the exact same bike) Please could you help me with 2 things? I’d love to know what the specific bulbs are called for the instrument cluster panel and turn signals please as it would help me find them on the website you have mentioned. Additionally, where did you get the new Speedo dials? Your new ones really have improved the look of the dash! Would love your help, Sir. Kind regards, Elliot.
Hello, check the description section of this video. It has the LEDs used and where to get them. The links for the dial plates are also in the description. There from Poland. Yes the original dial plates in my opinion were ugly. They also had bubbles in the paint. I also soldered a clear led into the circuit board to fill the hole in the lower part of the tach plate. It's just a dummy led, it does not light up. It's for a factory security system that's in the UK bike that we in the US don't have. The circuit board does have the traces for it without the components. No worries on which direction the led goes, just solder it to the height needed. If you replace the plates, use two spoons under the needle to get it off without troubles. Make sure the shaft does not turn and replace the needle in the exact same position. You may want to do a test run with a gps to verify speed before reassembling the front of the bike. Note these plates are plastic, don't over tighten the screws. I made that mistake. Over time the plastic rippled slightly around the screws probably from engine heat. Thanks Mike.
Thanks for your video. Can I point out that your retightening Torque is wrong. It should be 22ft lbs, not 13 ft lbs. The rear brake master cylinder is 13 ft lbs .
Hello, the OEM pads are preferred. However I have been using EBC Double-H Sintered Brake Pads without issues. I have not used much else since this is what the local shop carried. Thanks, Mike
@@mikesfjrcorner7129 Thanks so much! I put 4 Liters of Motul 5100 10 w 40 in mine, I guess it was a mistake? What is the difference between the two? Should I replace it?
no, 5100 is the semi-synthetic and the 7100 is the full-synthetic. Either works fine. If you want to go to the full synthetic, do it at the next interval. At least you have a really good oil in there. Mike
Tks Mike , my heart rate goes down (good for a 70 year old guy) to a more relaxed state to to concerns now with the clutch. A Happy new year to you from a German RP28 rider . @@mikesfjrcorner7129
NEVER put 18 wheeler oil in a two wheeler.i put rotella t6 in my gen 1, started it up and it was ticking and knocking like it was gonna blow up.these bikes don't like restrictive oil filters either as they only have 4 psi oil pressure at idle and oil won't get up to the valvetrain until 2500 RPM when it makes enough pressure to push it up to the top and stop ticking.a lot of the ticking videos and threads are due to wrong oil, filter or both
Hello, yes I agree, my previous owner was using rotella. Used it the first time, didn't like, changed to motu, made a world of difference, never looked back . Mostly used OEM filter.
Hello, here's my problem. I reassembled the injectors on my fjr 1300 and I end up with gasoline in my exhaust. My question comes from where do you think?
Sounds like a stuck injector. If you had a seal leak, that would just be a vacuum leak. All plugs are on the correct injector? The injector could be firing at the wrong cycle.
I'm still thinking about a stuck injector. Maybe check the spark plug boots for connections. Maybe It's possible one cylinder is not firing and the unburnt fuel winds up in the exhaust. The plug boots screw onto the wire. What I've done before is: unscrewed them from the wire, cut off a 1/4" of wire and rescrew the cap back onto the wire.
hello I think it's not the right path to follow it's the bike it would run on 3 cylinders that's not it because the engine speed is good I assume that it is not under pressure which means that the pump has gasoline sending in gasoline content to have what do you think?
Somehow fuel has to jump from injector to exhaust without burning. So there are a few saneriaos. 1. If an injector is stuck open or damaged, it could dump fuel into the cylinder either while sitting and/or running, causing unburnt fuel to pump into the exhaust. 2. If the injector is connected to the wrong plug, it would spray at the wrong time. 3. If the cylinder is not firing for some reason, then unburnt fuel will be pumped into the exhaust. 4. Clogged passageways in the throttle body or bad seal on the injector causing the cylinder to misfire. You can check the temperature of each header. If one is lower than the rest then that cylinder could be misfirng. Then go from there to figure out why. A cylinder could sound like it's running ok but burning way rich, dumping unburnt fuel into the exhaust. Was the bike running before work and what was done to the bike. I would backtrack your steps. If anybody has any other thoughts I haven't thought of please chime in. Thanks, mike
Hello, In the triple tree the fork sits just above the clamps about an 1/8" or a few millimeters. Just make them the same height. Rotation is not an issue as once they are installed. The bottom of the fork can rotate to line up with the axle. Hope this helps, mike
After cleaning mine but NOT taking it apart, it is STILL sticking. Riding season is just about over now so I will do it right this time... Thanks a bunch!!
