A fact that most mower enthusiasts overlook is that the engine used for this product has a twin-ring gear flywheel, which allows the use of the optional 120-volt plug-in electric starter for faster starts.
I picked one up free along road, no spark, adjusted bale cable to ignition started right up.changed oil and this thing runs awesome , very light and cuts grass beautifully. I remember these back in 80s very expensive.ergonomics of handlebars makes very easy to push,Japanese make well engineered stuff.
You showing how to install the RELEASE PEDAL is invaluable (at the 12:35 mark of the video.) Without your video, I had no clue how to do it. I found no manuals or any other video that showed how to reinstall the release pedal. Great job at providing overall instructions on how to disassemble, repair, and reassemble a Kenmore vacuum cleaner!
I bought one of these HRS21 machines new in 1983. Mine is an HRS, side discharge. The HRM is a mulcher. Have used it every year since. I only use non alcohol fuel bought at a local airport. Beside changing the oil every couple yeas and a new blade the only part I've changed is one of the lower handle arms since one of the mount holes cracked. They really don't make 'em like this anymore!
The drive belt was hard for me to find but i found it lowes doesn't sell it if they do they don't were im at so after looking on the internet i seen lowes does have them for either 42 inch decks or 44 but i wasn't after the deck belt Just the drive belt thats good to know though incase i do need a deck belt they have those. On mines deck the left spindle is rusted corroded up all the way so i don't think there's no saving that spindle then seen the middle spindle looks bad but spins good so I'll just keep that one on til it breaks or until the old belt does from the old spindle locking up i have seen other people use newer models of craftsmen decks on these older craftsmens so i can do that to but the original deck is in good shape other than the left side spindle plus i seen someone didn't do the blade timing right neither
I got the cover canopy off and therefor access to the cord retractor which is too weak to pull more than about half the cord back in. Is there a way to wind the spring up tighter to fix this problem
I've got one for you.....a 116.2234890 cannister. I can't get the cover canopy completely off the motor housing area. Two buttons come through it and I have the bag area side snaps loose but the back side is down tight. I find no screws anywhere and even the local shop can't figure it out. Can you help?
Looked up that diagram. The very back of that cover just snaps into place. So you have to wedge a flat screwdriver near the corner of the cover and slightly bend it outward to unlatch it from the canister body. I would make a vid of it but I don't have any of that style canister.
They are not all the same. I took apart my Aunt's Progressive model with ease. However, I have a 200 series and that has some other hidden latches or fasteners keeping the back half from coming loose. I for one like to install 120-volt hour meters in my appliances to see just how many hours of service I get from them. I cannot get into the 200 series to do that. My Hoover Quick Vac (bagless) has an hour meter in it, I had for the last 9 years & have 24.8 hours of service on it. I also have the Hoover carpet cleaner & that too is 9 years old but only 8.7 hours of service.
Still not sure I have the release pedal on right (looks ok), but I noticed the bottom part of the base nearby it is cracked off (whether it was before, don't know, but haven't had the metal tube stay up for a long time (perhaps even since I replaced "this center piece" that had broken years and years ago (before I discovered youtube)). Thought I'd check things out while replacing the bulb, so now I know I need to replace the bottom part which seems vital for the metal tube to stay up (and for the release pedal to work properly (though I could probably still survive without it.) Seems kind of flimsy though… wonder how much it costs… Also just replaced the broken connector part that snaps into the canister (with a new one without a broken clip), though not certain yet whether there are still any intermittent power issues… seems like there might be, but haven't figured out how to reproduce, just seems to hesitate once in a while.) But hey at least the bulb works now, hah. And the hose no longer falls out of the canister.
Made in the usa and everyone talks down about craftsman mowers now. people don't like usa made products they like forien products so I have a small collection of USA made machines
As far as I know what I have is the 89 model a friend gave me all his old mowers except his new john Deere I didn't get that one but probably will once it breaks on them
I have 33 year old CAT loading pussy and I just started doing some upgrade which is kind of crazy and I'm still learning what will works and not. I guess you learn from mistakes.. lol
I realize that you sold this long ago, but if you're willing to share some of your expertise on this model, I'd appreciate some guidance. I was given a GT5000, 25 hp, electric start, 6 speed transaxle model no. 917.267090. The previous owner cut and removed wiring and couldn't get it fixed. I sat for a number of years I got it. I bought the wiring harness and light wiring connections and am attempting to get it rewired. After connecting the obvious points, I'm left with about 6-7 orphan connectors that I can't see any obvvious place where they might connect. I have the manual with parts diagrams, including wiring harness, but I haven't been able to find homes for all of the connections.
got 3 of these, my grandpa has 2. one seized, and one lost spark (needs new coil). I got one and it still runs like new, I believe it’s a 2001 which is the last year they made this model, what a shame.
I don't tighten the screws holding the power nozzle drive motor in place until the brush roll and belt are in place, then pull the motor back a bit to tension the belt before tightening the screws.
Something just blow and caused an PCB burn smell. Power 1 and 2 still works but power 1 is missing some sound. What could it be? I only tested for few seconds before I turn it off.
I don't i just take off the starter taking the whole engine off is more work i don't need to do cause i got many other mowers i work on so the only time the whole engine comes off is if there's a problem in it or it needing a gasket or i make it a gasket
That cap on the oil fill port; what did you do to delete the PCV? On the rig I just bought the dude left the PCV hose just trailing off to nothing. Idles like absolute dog shit and surges/bogs at idle. Did you do anything else to yours when you put that cap on?
I would make sure your pcv valve is okay. Next, check the EGR valve. Those can get hung up at idle. What happens is they stick open a little and exhaust is going into your intake causing the lousy idle. Our '93 F150 did the same thing you described.
PCV hose is supposed to go back to the intake. The valve cover to air cleaner hose was eliminated. Capped the hole for that in the K&N intake. I put the valve covers from the original engine onto the replacement. That's just an old-school valve cover breather in the one valve cover.
