Bad wheel speed sensor , bearing, prob front left , disables the advance track and that warning comes up , speed sensor wire for abs prob frayed , i got 2 , an 02,08 280k miles still rollin
@@J.l198 nice , if it was maintained well definitely, my 02 V8 still on original tran, My 08 v6 tranny solenoid pack went at 220k , my own fault I knew it pushing it that day, 4 trips from the east end of long Island to the city summer traffic pushed it to much in a day
I got the “service rsc now” thing on my ford, I figured it had to do with the breaks or wheel bearings or something, all I knew is that it started making a grinding sound in the front left wheel well.. I already replaced a front wheel bearing not to long ago so I figured it was the other one going out, so I took the tire off to change it and I realized that my break caliper wasn’t even connected to the car and it was just sitting on the break disk somehow…??!? I think the tire was the only thing holding it on, Anyways I bought new bolts and reattached it, the warning went away, I think it has something to do with the breaks
Holy stone is a horrible drone company. Had the hs360, followed instructions exactly and watched videos on calibration and still toilet bowled to the point it crashed. Hs sent me another one and still the same thing. Never again
if you are running Synthetic 5w40 or 10w30 that will cause injector chatter and ping they where designed to run on 10w30 and 15w40 Conventional and not synthetic's and don't add additives to them at all in any way no matter how many of the RU-vid Gang say to just don't and for fuel additive just 1 cup ATF per 50 liters of fuel and you pump injectors and motor will out live you
Change the oil in your hpop. There’s a lil Alan head 3/16 on top. Open it be careful it does have a rubber oring on it. I use one of those hand brake bleeders so I can keep track of how much oil comes out. Usually a qtr quart up to a quart. It feeds the injectors. Trust me it will quite it down. Probably wouldn’t hurt to do it once run it then do it again. You’ll be amazed at the crap you’ll pump out.
@@J.l198 you got it ? The first thing I’ll do if I was you since you heard my story , I’ll just take the trans to get inspected/serviced so you can save it if it’s a issues with it that you wouldn’t be able to notice
I had a ton of noise coming from my 7.3. I cleared up 90% with Rislone oil treatment before an oil change, and Rislone hyper lube on oil fill up. I’m sure other manufacturers treatments will work as well. I’ve heard good things about Prolong.
No 90wt!!!! It is not a Ford. Use Aw46 or 10w30 motor oil. Relief valve may have broken spring. Weak pump would not lift . Drop when motor off a leak in system . 90wt way to heavy in cold weather. Will work in warm summer.
I can't remember exactly the amount off the top of my head but it's easily searchable. If you supply an email address I can scan a copy of the manual I was sent concerning the oil. It was sent to me by John at Ferguson Tractors UK.
Mark, yes 10w30. Fergusontractors uk sent me a pdf for recommended procedures for replacing the hydraulic fluid. My problem was the relief valve was stuck open. I have replaced that and all new fluid and all is well.
10W30?? It requires 90W Mineral oil. To refill you will need 6 gallons of oil. Check NAPA"s price, ask for PN 65-205. That is a 5-gallon bucket of the GL-1 oil. Cleaning procedure There are three drain holes and one filler hole. Note the fill slow at the end comment. As the filler hole is in the front of the case and the dipstick is at the rear. Only fill with four to five gallons, then fill 1 quart at a time with a couple to 5 min. wait between quarts. This gives the fluid some time to level out so that it can be read on the dipstick. The first time I changed my oil I overfilled by more than a gallon, I had oil coming out the axils on the breaks... what a mess. This is a job you do not want to do too often, so plan it right. Determine all the maintenance that needs to be accomplished while the transmission is drained. (PTO seal, Pump repairs, Hydro leak fixes, axial seals etc) Get the parts and get them done while you can. This is the procedure I used to clean my transmission oil housing. You will need to wash out the old fluid. Any remaining fluid will contaminate the new fluid. If you have time in the evenings start to drain the tractor now. She will drip for hours/days. You should also be prepared to deal with the gallons of fluids you the will gush out of the tractor. Have containers ready to pour the old oil in to take to your auto parts store for recycling. Do your lift arms drop/leak down quickly? If so prior to draining the fluid pull the right and left side inspection plates. Lift an implement and look to see where the fluid is leaking out of the system as the lift lowers. Then you can repair/replace the required parts without the fluid in the way. I would also recommend the you replace the PTO seal and O-ring seal if needed at this time and replace the inspection plate gaskets. The inspection plate gaskets are fairly easy to cut yourself if you need to. Open the drains one at a time to handle the gush of fluid. Once you have gone through all of them open them all up again with a pan under each and let it drip at least over night. Make sure your lift control is in the down position to drain the piston. You should plan on "Washing/Flushing" out the inside, particularly if you have water in the oil... i.e. if brown/milky. To wash the inside use either kerosene or diesel. (Note: It is generally recommended and I agree: DO NOT operate the tractor with your cleaning fluid in the transmission) I put mine in a garden sprayer and sprayed the insides down. I put the garden sprayer nozzle everywhere I can, up the PTO shaft opening, if you pulled it. Through the Filler hole, through the inspection ports, through each drain plug. I catch the diesel in clean oil pans let it settle then decant the "clean" fluid off the sludge and spray again, and again. Go have a beer and let it drain. I then wipe out the bottom with clean paper towels to get the crud out. (do not use cheap towels here you do not want them falling apart). If your fluid had water in it, the "Milky" oil will continue to appear for a while, I just came back and wiped it out again, and again until gone. This is a good time to do other maintenance. Grease the fittings, Pull the air filter and clean it. Be sure to do the diesel flush with good ventilation. The fumes are powerful.
