HTD (Home Theater Direct) is a different kind of home audio company. We only sell what we make, and our HTD brand is only sold direct to consumers. On top of great products at impossible-to-beat low prices, we also provide our customers toll-free expert support in designing and implementing their entire home theater or whole-house system.
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Do you have any good recommendation on how to seal the speaker with the drywall? my ceilings are all attic ceilings. Maybe use some big stretch caulk to air seal the speakers?
I'm not entirely sure, but I'd say you need the TV and Receiver connected using the HDMI ARC(Audio Return Channel), and then the TV can send audio signal back to the reciever, and then to the Zone Kitchen. :)
My subs only work when 1 RCA cable is plugged in, but if I plug both in, they do nothing. Is this the same thing as what you are explaining? The RCA's are connected toy amp and to a LOC. Then from the amp to 2 12"s via speaker wire.
Being out of phase is when the negative terminal or positive terminal is wired opposite, so polarity is part of being out of phase, but isn't the same thing. I guess you could say it's out of polarity but that really isn't a known thing to be said
Technically, that is correct. We are showing speakers that are “out of polarity“. Phase more accurately refers to a time shift that places sound waves out of sync with one another. Because both speakers are receiving their signal from a common source, a phase shift is unlikely and one that puts those waves exactly opposite one another is highly unlikely. On the other hand, speakers wired out of polarity nearly always create this “phase effect”. And since most people, including most audiophiles, refer to speakers being wired out of polarity as being “out of phase “, we chose this phrasing. Thanks for the comment.
Okay, I'll respond in good faith. By "wifi" I will assume you mean control of your system with our app over your existing WiFi network. If your WiFi network is set up correctly as a single mesh network and not just a bunch of access points that each manage their own bank of IP addresses, and you have properly configured the "HTD Home Audio app", it will work every time. Read more in our online support pages. For Lync specifically: www.htd.com/blog/troubleshooting-lync Specific to the app: www.htd.com/apphelp
Been in the house I built for 3 years now. I wired for a lync 6 system. Already got my speakers in the ceiling. Just trying to find a good time to purchase a 2800$ setup. I can’t wait to get it. Just don’t know when it will be
One idea would be to start with a “no keypad” set and control entirely with the HTD Home Audio app. A Lync 6, 12-channel amplifier, and a WiFi gateway starts at $1799. You could always add LyncTouch keypads later. We typically recommend adding at least one keypad, usually installed in the kitchen, to take advantage of the intercom feature where you could at least page into one or all zones. A keypad is also handy if your WiFi goes down. www.htd.com/Lync6-and-GW-SL1_2
This great little product is used to balance left and right channel levels from my RIAA preamp when using a phono cartridge that was inherently off by about 6 dB between channels. Simple, small and cost effective.
I have a Zone 2 on my Onkyo A/V Receiver, but I'm unfamiliar with the other component you mention here and what it specifically does. Also, how do I control the volume in individual rooms or areas of my home if I have speakers all over?
The "other component" is called a whole-house audio central controller. HTD makes a couple of models for our Mid-Level "MC" line, and a couple of models for our Advanced "Lync" line. Any connected source can be selected for listening in any room/zone and volume is independently controlled via the HTD Home Audio app and/or keypads installed within each room/zone. Learn more here: www.htd.com/Whole-House-Audio
How to set up the echo dot to move sound on himself when I turn off the audio receiver but I don't disconnect the 3.5mm cable? I want to use my echo connected to my old audio receiver, but with receiver turned off. So echo should play on his speaker and if I suddenly like a song I want to hit on button from my receiver (3.5mm cable was connected ahead) and sound should move now from echo device speaker to my audio receiver speaker. When song is over I will hit off the receiver button and the echo should move sound on himself speaker automatically. This is something I don't know how to set it up. If I turn receiver off while echo is 3.5mm connected I remain without sound. If I unplug the 3.5mm cable from my echo then echo will start his speaker.
The Echo Dot will not play sound out of its tiny built-in speaker when something is plugged into the 3.5mm audio output. It is a mechanical override and how Amazon designed it. There is no way to change settings in the Alexa app to make it work the way you suggest.
@@HomeTheaterDirectwhat else I can do? What I can buy in order, a mixer or something else.... to have my audio system connected into 3.5 mm echo jack but to remotely start my system only when I like a song to much that need the system to kick in. Usually during night when lying on a couch echo speaker is enough but if I suddenly want more sound to be able to start it without to continuously connect the 3.5mm cable, maybe even something Alexa itself by a voice command can do, something like "Alexa, connect the extern system" or similar.
@@ricaflorin It is currently not possible. Amazon would need to update the firmware in order to switch between using it’s built-in speaker and the 3.5mm output.
There is a fourth option that works very similarly to the first option, whereby Alexa queries interrupt the audio and then reverts back to the music source. 1) Use an Audio engine B1 high end bluetooth receiver with 192 kHz/24 bit DAC built in and it has an incredible 100' range -- which for me in a large home reaches all of the far corners on three floors! Once paired to your alexa device, all you need to say is Alexa, turn on bluetooth (and it automatically connects). The next command is play (spotify, pandora, prime music, etc.). You then have full command to play, stop, skip songs, etc. and it is coming from any zone connected to the audio engine B1 as the source input. To disconnect, simply say Alexa, turn off bluetooth, and the echo device disconnects from the audio engine B1. Any queries while connected stops the music to answer the question and then the music resumes.
When using the original Lync app and LyncTouch simultaneously, under certain conditions a LyncTouch keypad could suddenly display a message requiring the user to power cycle the central controller. This recent update to the LyncTouch firmware (5.0), when used with our new HTD Home Audio app instead of the original Lync app, fixes this issue.
Hi Nathan, sorry I inadvertently sent my response to you as a new comment instead of a response. Here is what I wrote . . . When using the original Lync app and LyncTouch simultaneously, under certain conditions a LyncTouch keypad could suddenly display a message requiring the user to power cycle the central controller. This recent update to the LyncTouch firmware (5.0), when used with our new HTD Home Audio app instead of the original Lync app, fixes this issue.
You can use Bluetooth from your phone to pair with a nearby Bluetooth Input Panel (BIP) if you have one installed and then that stream is available to be selected by all 12 zones. Alternatively, you can connect a music streamer to one of the source inputs on the Lync 12. Your phone can control the music stream from anywhere within range of your home's WiFi network, and that music stream is available to every zone. Read more about streamers here: www.htd.com/blog/streamers
@@gjohannes1344 If you plan to stream audio from a service provider like Spotify (as most do), then yes, you’ll need a music streamer plugged in as one of your sources. You can then share that one music stream with any number of zones. If you want two unique streams, then you’ll need a second streamer. Ultimately, how many, and what quality and features you want in your streamer(s) is up to you.
I use the All Zone Primary Override so I connect the Intercom Controller Module Dialed from the Cisco VOIP Phone System (Ex: Bogen UTI1, Avaya UPAM, Etc.) to the input to my Mixer and the other inputs such as my Party Input, Mic Input, Emergency Alert System and my Multi Recordable PCB Board with a RCA Output for my Doorbell system to alert me that there is someone at the door and to say that A Sensor or Camera has Detected Motion and say that a Door/Window is Open and the Audio Signal gets sent to the RCA Output to the Amplifier All Zone Override input.
If we extended our customer support through the weekend, we would have to increase our prices. That said, we monitor cases submitted through our website and will respond if available. Please create a case on our website.
Not directly, but currently it is only an option through 3rd party platforms. We discuss this in one of our blog posts: www.htd.com/blog/how-to-use-alexa-and-echo-dot. Most of our customers use the HTD Home Audio app to set a zone or multiple zones quickly to the source and volume of their choosing. The LyncTouch keypad for Lync systems includes a Quick Key where a single button press can power on the zone and set a specific source at a specific volume. And with all HTD systems you can set up a "Preset" in the app so that a single button press will do this across one or any combination of zones. Alexa commands are most helpful when telling your music service what artist, album, playlist, etc. you want to hear and that is achieved by tying your music service account to your account in the Alexa app.
Level THREE Bookshelf speakers are sold in pairs on our website, but if you need a single speaker in black, we may be able to accommodate with a phone call. The Macassar Ebony speakers include veneers that are book-matched so they cannot be separated and sold individually.
While the LyncTouch keypads get their power from the central Lync controller (Lync 6 or Lync 12) over Cat cable (Cat5e or higher), it is not technically POE and should not be powered with a separate POE power supply. We use all 8 conductors in the cat cable, not only for power, but also to exchange data and digital audio signals from the LyncTouch and connected audio input panels.
Hello Ben, all of our amplifiers are 4-ohm stable which means you can connect one or two 8-ohm speakers per amplifier CHANNEL. With a 6-zone system and a single 12-channel amplifier, you are provided with two amp channels per zone. Typically, the first channel is set to play the LEFT side of a stereo recording and the second channel is set to play the RIGHT side of a stereo recording. You can connect just one speaker per amp channel, or you could connect two left speakers to the first amp channel and two right speakers to the second amp channel. We sell pre-packaged whole-house audio sets on our site that typically combine a 6-zone whole-house audio controller with one 12-channel amplifier or the set will combine a 12-zone whole-house audio controller with two 12-channel amplifiers. Since these pre-packaged sets provide 2 amp channels per zone, we say if all zones are used then each zone can include up to 4 speakers. But you can always add more speakers to a zone by adding more amplifier channels. As an example, if you are using all 12 zones, but need one zone to have more than 4 speakers in it, then you could add a 2-channel amplifier like our SZA-1 or PLA-240ADS to power additional speakers for a zone. Another example: let's say you are only using 5 zones of a 6-zone system. That means you will have two extra amplifier channels available. Those extra amp channels can be used to power more speakers in one of the 5 zones. We can assist you in how to connect the zone on the whole-house controller to these extra amp channels, but essentially it involves plugging the Variable Output for the zone on the whole-house audio controller into one of the Bus inputs on the left side of the back of the amplifier; you then assign 4 amplifier channels to that Bus input and set each amp channel to either power the left, right, or left+right (mono) side of the stereo recording.
I want to use HTS1's to do my 6 heights for a Auro3D setup, I just don't know how they sound and what they compare to. I've had the L3 towers 2 front and 2 rear and a L3 center for nearly 30 years or so and they sound good. But again in all this time I've never bought a name brand to a/b blind test them. How do the HTS1's sound compared to the L3 towers?
So glad to hear you are still enjoying the Level THREEs which, at most, would be from about 22 years ago :). The HTS1's will sound different than the Level THREE Towers. The Level THREE Towers will have more bass and the high frequencies will be slightly more airy due to the ribbon tweeters. You are correct to match the Level THREE Center speaker with the Level THREE Towers. While I wouldn't mix the HTS1 with the Level THREE's for a coherent front soundstage, using the HTS1 for any of the surround speaker locations, including height speakers, would be a "close enough" match. Again, they will obviously sound different due to the different cabinet structure and components, but they are coming from the same people who created the Level THREEs you've had for so long so will share at least some of the same preference for acoustic performance. Btw, HTS1 seems a bit overkill for your height speakers and you may prefer the smaller SB1. And neither of these models include a bracket intended to be mounted to a ceiling. But you can use our bracket model BR-TPR with either one.
Why do you still utilize RCA connections when they’re old technology? My previous home had your system that the original owner put in. Sdx speakers and they were okay but the audio was flat. Purchasing another home that’s already built and considering your system again due to price over a Sonos, maybe several of your hybrid wireless systems but can’t get over all the old technology RCA cables. Change my mind…….
Hi JP, thank you for the question. This comes up occasionally, so I’ll address it here in detail. RCA analog connectors have been around for a long time and they will continue to be used for home audio, especially when it comes to stereo audio. Because digital audio is a newer technology than analog, people sometimes mistakenly believe digital has completely replaced analog. This is not the case. Digital audio formats offer a great way to transport audio signals over long cables (across the Internet and within your home) and over wireless technology like cellular, Bluetooth and WiFi. But all digital audio signals must be converted to analog using a DAC (digital to analog converter) before they can be amplified. Regarding Zone Outputs: Both the variable volume and fixed volume outputs available with every zone on the back of the Lync Controller need to be in analog format before being connected to the amplifier for amplification. That is why they are all RCA type connectors. To reiterate, it is not possible to amplify a digital audio signal without first converting it to analog. Regarding Source Inputs: When you see a digital input (HDMI, Toslink) on a device like a home theater receiver, inside the receiver is a processor that divides the digital signal into its various surround sound channels and then converts them to analog before amplifying them. While a home theater receiver will include many digital input connectors, each of those source inputs still get routed through a common processor and DAC. This is because it will only output one source at a time. A home theater receiver will typically only include more than one built-in DAC if it offers a zone 2 or even zone 3 analog output (hence their higher cost). In contrast to a home theater receiver, with whole-house audio every source input must be available at all times to every zone. This is often referred to as a matrix switcher. So every digital source input would require its own built-in DAC. Lync provides one digital source input (source number 7 on a Lync 6, and source number 13 on a Lync 12) with a quality built-in DAC. The other 4 inputs on the central Lync controller are analog. This allows the customer to decide whether or not to use an analog audio output from their source, i.e. using the source’s own built-in DAC, or adding a separate external DAC to their digital audio source. HTD makes a great stand-alone DAC, but other audiophile brands make even better ones, albeit more expensive. In any case, the choice is up to the customer. The other source inputs available to Lync systems are optional and can be installed throughout the home, such as behind a nightstand or TV. While the input connectors for each of our Source Input Panels may be analog or digital, they all get converted to digital for the long transport across the home (over Cat cable) to the central Lync controller. Inside the Lync Controller, these digital audio signals get converted to analog before being added to the audio matrix and sent out of the Variable or Fixed RCA outputs into the RCA inputs on the amplifier. Finally, regarding the speakers in your home, did you try adjusting the +/- 3dB switches on the speakers themselves or adjusting the treble and bass from within the app? As mentioned above, you could also try improving the sound quality with a different streamer or external DAC.
@@HomeTheaterDirect wow thank you for the detailed response. This is very helpful to understand. Regarding your question, I did adjust the +/- 3db switch. These SDX speakers were installed with homemade “boxes” framed in between the ceiling joists with 2x10’s and insulation. I suspect the original homeowner did that to isolate sound from going upstairs and perhaps this was prior to you offering the speaker mount brackets. They were also using an older Sony stereo receiver with one of your zone controllers/switches. Because of your response and support I’ll absolutely purchase your products again for our new home. Likely several hybrid wireless systems because I don’t think wirh existing construction I can run everything back to a central location although I may be able to via the basements drop ceiling. I Will also be purchasing a surround sound setup for the living room which has vaulted ceilings so I’ll call and work with your customer support on a plan for ideal placement. All from the HDX line and an in wall sub. (Previous house has this as well) Your customer service is outstanding so far. Thank you
@@JP-ec8fe Thank you! A quick note regarding the installation of boxes behind in-ceiling speakers - this is usually not necessary, and most customers achieve great results by just lying about a two-foot sheet of batt insulation behind the speaker. This can be stuffed through the hole cut for the speaker before installing the speaker. Never use blown-in insulation directly behind a speaker as it can work its way inside the speaker frame and inhibit the movement of the speaker cone. If your batt insulation has a paper (barrier) side, make sure it is facing away so that the batt side sits right up against the speaker frame. Adding a box that traps the correct volume of air (contact us for your particular model) is not harmful and can sometimes improve bass performance. This box should have insulation inside of it, but it should never be packed in. We look forward to working with you in the future!
Thanks for your explanation regarding digital signals being converted to analog before amplification. I had no idea that's how even modern stereos with digital inputs processed the signals and then converted them before amplification. The knowledge you gave definitely gives me a whole new outlook on the HTD equipment I recently aquired ( HTD MC86 multi zone audio controller, HTD A-2106 Amplifier and HTD 1235 Amplifier)
Why isn't there a single video that explains the Dip Switches on the back? How do you set them to bridge two channels, only mono, there are 4 dip switches on every channel, can someone explain them please?
Hi Paul, to be clear, technically the only "dip switch" on the DMA-1240ADS is the 6-pin switch in the upper right corner. This switch is used to turn the global "Override" input (located in the upper left) on or off for stereo amplifier pairs, e.g. dip switch 1 = amp channel 1&2, dip switch 2 = 3&4, 3 = 5&6, 4 = 7&8, 5 = 9&10, 6 = 11&12. But I believe what you are referring to are the two 3-position switches located on every amp channel and the 2-position switch labeled "Bridged" located between amp channels. For the majority of our customers using this amplifier for whole-house audio, only the "1 2 Line" switch needs to be set to "Line" and this is the way we ship them by default. So, no adjustment is needed for any of the switches. That said, here is how these switches might be used: The first switch, labeled "1 2 Line" determines which input this channel should amplify. "1" refers to Bus Input 1 labeled "In 1" found near the left side of the amplifier, "2" refers to Bus Input 2 labeled "In 2" also found on the left side of the amplifier, and "Line" refers to the "Line In" input provided on every amplifier channel. The "L L+R R" switch is only used when you have selected "1" or "2" on the switch above. "L" indicates the channel will amplify the Left bus input (white RCA); "R" indicates the Right bus input (red RCA); and "L+R" indicates the channel will amplify both the Left and Right bus inputs summed together, i.e. "mono". Bridging is not something that most customers will use and connecting it incorrectly can damage the amplifier. This is why we recess this two-position switch and include warnings in the owner's manual about using it. If you are not sure what bridging is and how it works, we prefer you contact us by phone or email to discuss. Bridging essentially creates a single amplifier channel by combining (bridging) two side-by-side amp channels. Instead of having four amp channels (example: 1,2,3,4), you end up with two amplifier channels (2&4) each of which has more amplifier power. These bridged amp channels can only handle an 8 ohm load so only one 8 ohm speaker can be connected to amp channel 2 and only one 8 ohm speaker can be connected to amp channel 4. ONLY WHEN USING BRIDGED MODE, speakers are connected across the two red speaker posts, e.g. the speaker for amp channel 2 would be connected with the negative to the red post under amp channel 1 and the positive to the red post under amp channel 2. Note that anything related to bridging will be labeled with a white background and black text. Also note that bridging requires a minimum speaker load of 8 ohms. As a result, you end up using 4 amplifier channels to power just 2 speakers. In contrast, when not bridged, these same 4 amplifier channels can operate with a 4 ohm load. This means you could connect one or two 8 ohm speakers to a single amp channel. The result is up to 8 speakers being powered by four amplifier channels compared with just the 2 speakers when bridged. This is why bridging is rarely used. These settings and additional diagrams are provided in more detail in the Owner's Manual for our multi-channel amplifiers. Feel free to contact us if you have any questions: www.htd.com/contact-us
@@HomeTheaterDirect I think you explained it well enough for me to figure it out. Mine has a toggle switch for Mono and Bridge, but there's a 4-pin dip switch above each channel that says "L, R, Aux, DIR". I think my only confusion now is running it in Bridged mode? I've got it set up in mono where all 12-channels work for a home theater setup with my Marantz av7705 11.2 processor. I may want to bridge the connections and power 6 channels and buy a 5-channel Marantz amp. Right now, I just have them all on DIR, and shouldn't I be able to keep it there and just flip the toggle switch between mono and bridge?
Paul, it appears you are using an amplifier made by another manufacturer. I can really only speak to our own HTD brand. That said, I would be very surprised if you can simply switch to bridged mode without changing the way the speakers are connected. You may still hear sound from your speakers if connected incorrectly and switched to bridged mode, but I doubt you will achieve the extra power bridged mode is intended to provide and you may be compromising the longevity of the amplifier. Your best bet is to contact the manufacturer of your multi-channel amplifier to confirm.
Great video. I personally cannot commit to the Sonos because of them not supporting their speakers after x amount of years. It is painful to throw perfectly good speakers out because they stopped supporting them. With wired speakers the most you might have to do is replace the receiver. Also, I know this video is 3 years old but using a keypad or a phone app would drive me crazy. I control all my wireless speakers with Alexa and Spotify. Easiest way ever. I will be running whole house audio in the very near future so thanks for the video.
I don't get your reference to obsolescence. I have sonos equipment I bought in 2006 that still works like new. I have Connect attached to my stereo, several Sonos amps connected to speakers to have music through the house, and a couple of Sonos speakers I got around 2015. All work together, and Sonos still supports everything. I just talked to them a month ago with some questions about buying new gear, and they recommended keeping what I have. I've discarded nothing, and will continue to use Sonos in the future.
The LyncTouch will hold firmly against the wall as long as two things occur: 1) cable can move freely behind the keypad so that it is not bunched up pushing the keypad out, and 2) all four magnets are making contact with the metal ring and not just two on one side; the best way to ensure this happens is to slightly squeeze in the sides of the metal ring before installing. If, by chance, you received a metal ring where the spot weld came undone, please contact us. We discovered one weak batch several months ago, and have since replaced them.
Use a tool called an awl, which is essentially a sharp hooked pick, to insert into one of the grille holes near the edge of the grille, then gently pull down. You may need to work your way around the edge of the grille to get it to come loose.
Not sure to what exactly you are referring, but this is very much a modern system. If you are looking for an all-in-one solution with just a single centrally located device, you should consider our mid-level MCA system. Bottom line: if you are installing speakers in your ceiling, you need to have some way to power them, which means you need an amplifier. If you'd like to select between multiple sources and have independent volume control per zone, you need a controller. Generally speaking, it is better to separate these two devices in order to have flexibility in how much amplification you want to assign to any one zone (room). The efficiency and "sleep" options, the ability to have a visual indicator of source strength, the ability to connect sources throughout the house as well as at a central location, and the option to control with a smart device and/or touch keypads are all modern features.
*My daughter bought it for me since I have taken several falls. It's **Newest.Technology** wonderful that you can set up emergency contacts in case you need to get help fast. It's also a lot of fun to use.*
Yes on both. The auto-sensing circuit turns the subwoofer on automatically when it senses an input signal and will return the amplifier to sleep mode after about 10-15 minutes of no input signal. To be clear, I assume you mean "when it receives a signal from my HOME THEATER RECEIVER" and not truly from an amplifier.
If you haven’t already, you first add the Spotify app to your smart phone (or tablet) and sign into it with your free or paid Spotify account. You assign Spotify to play out of a source (such as a media player) that is connected to a source input on the Lync central controller. Then, you add the Spotify shortcut in the Lync app. This is all just a one-time setup. Within the Lync app, you select that source (example media player) for any or all of the zones in which you want to hear your Spotify account; volume is uniquely controlled in each zone within the app. Use the Spotify shortcut to quickly toggle between the Lync app and Spotify app where you decide what song, artist, playlist, etc. you want to hear.
Hi Roman, the initial unlock code to access advanced settings for your system is sent via email. I just had it resent. Check your junk folder and please call us Monday if you don’t get it. Could be an issue with your email address.
Hi guys, can I ask about option 1 in the video please. How is the sound of Alexa in the ceiling coming through the speakers in the ceiling and the TV also? How is it wired? Directly from the Alexa to the speakers or does it somehow get controlled from the amp? Thanks, Mac
In Option 1, the Alexa Dot is connected to the "Voice Assistant" input for amplifier channels 1 and 2. Amp channels 1 and 2 are connected to the speakers in that room. The audio from the TV is connected to the "Line In" inputs for amplifier channels 1 and 2. If the TV has a stereo analog output, it can connect to the amplifier over a long length of Cat cable (Cat 5 or higher) using an audio balun (see www.htd.com/BALUN-RCA2-IW) at both the TV and Amplifier. There are other ways to connect the TV audio output if only a digital output is available and we are happy to discuss these with you by phone. The main point of the video is that the source connected to "Line In" can be anything that produces audio, the TV is just an example. Many of our customers combine this setup with a whole-house audio system. In those cases, a zone output would connect to the "Line In" inputs so that any source selected to be heard in that zone will be heard until Alexa (with the Echo Dot connected to the Voice Assistant input) overrides it. One further note for TVs - if the Echo Dot and your TV are the only two sources you want to hear out of those speakers, you should consider adding Fire TV from Amazon as a source connected to your TV. You can then pair the Fire TV to the same Echo Dot in the ceiling. This would allow you to use our standard DMA-1240 multi-channel amplifier instead of the model with Auto Detect and Switch (ADS). In this case, the Echo Dot would connect to the "Line In" for amp channels 1 and 2. Streaming sources such as Prime Audio, Spotify, Pandora, etc. would be output through the Echo Dot AS WELL AS FireTV when watching TV. That is, there is no need for ADS because all of your audio is coming from the Echo Dot.
No. RCA connections are "line level" meaning non-amplified or pre-amplifier. As shown in this video, a signal sent via RCA-type cable FROM a receiver's output will connect TO any of the RCA source inputs on the MCA-66. That signal is then amplified by the MCA-66's built-in amplifier. Not shown in this video: You can also send a signal TO the receiver FROM one of the zone outputs on the MCA-66. The RCA zone outputs can be set to be either FIXED (volume is constant) or VARIABLE (volume changes with a keypad connected to the MCA-66 or with the HTD MC app). When connecting a zone output to a receiver you would typically set this switch to FIXED and let the volume of the speakers connected to the receiver be controlled by the receiver itself.
