My parents just bought a new rtv1100. It’s completely gutless. It barely can climb their driveway. They are in the process of getting their money back. The dealer worked on it a few times and said it’s fine.
Say do you know where I might find a passenger door panel for my 2014 X1100C ? The orange plastic one that goes on the outside of door and covers the window glass.
Check out www.messicks.com/vendor/kubota They have it online. It takes a bit to figure out how they have things organized but it's pretty easy to navigate.
I continue to have ‘hard shift’ issues on my 2015 900. I’ve tried the pressure release adjustment that you mentioned on another video. Only very slight improvement. You are the only person who has mentioned the HST shift link adjustment. I will proceed through your entire optimization protocol and see if I can solve the issue. Thanks!
It's a little bit of both. Some extra rpm on the engine and adjusting all of the linkage. I have more videos of the whole process! Thanks for watching 👀
You actually want the oil to come out more forcefully, to help “pull” any contaminants from the bottom of the oil pan. You can take a paper towel and wipe the little bit of oil off the crossmember, it won’t permanently taint it.
I think its on the maintenance side that people have the most problems. Dealing with water, rocks, long grass that spins around axels and such. People do clean that all off and maintain it.
This tip applies to many more vehicles, particularly to a number of newer SUVs and trucks with large oil capacity and even smaller ATVs/UTVs, where the oil drain plug is horizontal (to protect it), which shoots oil sideways when draining.
22 mph flat ground on a incline not a big one just little one just want climb in h have to stop and go to low at 4 mph to get up any incline any advice
You seem very knowledgeable and experienced with these transmissions so I thought I’d ask. I rebuilt one last week because the internal shift fork had damage and wouldn’t shift into reverse at all. I got it tore down and fixed it. Put it all back together and drover it around for awhile and all gears worked no issue. I made a little mistake and the 4wd wouldn’t shift at all so I tore it back down and realized my issue was 4wd gear set. Reinstalled it properly and put it all back together, made sure everything shifted properly and it all did. I get it all back together and now it wants to grind when I try to shift forward or reverse, but it was operating perfectly the first rebuild and when I tore it back apart to fix the 4wd, I only uninstalled the first section of trans case which held 4wd and the 2 orings. With that being said, I can’t imagine it’s an internal issue. Can you help me out? My coworker said he thinks it’s idled up a little too high and could cause it to grind when trying to shift but I’m away from the machine until Monday. Please help lol
Could be too high of idle speed. Also could be the hst not in a neutral position. Lift up the rear, disconnect the hst rod from the back end and start it to see if that works. Then while it's running and in gear connect the rod and adjust it so the wheels don't spin. Does that make sense?
@@SearlesStation yes it does and I was already thinking too high of idle but I just wanted to see if you had anything else in mind. Thank you so much. I subscribed! And I will update to say what the issue was later today
Update. It was indeed the hst rod was adjusted out. Raised the rear end and adjusted until the wheels stopped and no more grind. Thanks so much man. Although I have no idea how it got out of adjustment because all I did was unbolt the rod and drop it down lol
Love your videos man please keep making them. I just bought the 2024 1130. I put a lift and 28" tires on it. I want to do some things to the engine to give it more power up hills. However it may void my warranty. Can you make videos on all the oil changes.
Awesome series! Seriously Kubota should pay you for selling RTVs for them. After going through your series and getting my RTV up to about 30mph with plenty of power to go up hills on our hunting club, 2 members have ordered one. They used to call me grandpa bc my machine lost so much speed & power so quickly. It was mostly stretched cables. It’s been “repaired” twice with no improvement. With some pliers and a few wrenches I was able to get all my original power back plus add more in about 45 minutes. Can’t thank you enough.
good day . i was waching your video , seen your pile of broken parts . had my pump apart . did not find any thing wrong in it , end up pulling some of the valves apart to see if any springs where broken . i have a small peice i can not find where it goes . i would like to know if you still have your broken pump parts from the rtv x900 i am looking for the steel plate that holds all the valves .
Thanks for this series. I have a two post auto hoist like you but have been reluctant to lift my RTV X1140 without being sure where to place the lift arm pads. Please advise on your experience.
Hi. Got a question you may be able to help me with. I have a 2018 1100c I just bought used. I decided to do all the preventative maintenance since this is new to me. Today I tackled the HST. I changed out both filters with new Kubota filters. After I changed them out I took it for a test ride and things were fine. I then checked the fluid level and found it to be way overfilled. I decided that I would loosen the big filter and let fluid drain from that since that filter seemed to leak fluid the entire time. After what i thought was enough fluid removed I put the filter back on. Now I have no transmission. I did all the preventive things I found on the internet that included lifting the wheels off the ground and running it till the wheels spin. Once that happened I took it for a ride. It was very sluggish and when I got it up to speed and lifted the gas pedal it was like someone hit the brakes hard and then it would jerk forward. I suspect either there is air in the system or the pumps aren't getting fluid. Nothing I have done helped. If it sits for a while it won't move until I raise it up and do the pedal thing until the wheels move. I even reverted to putting the old large filter back on to see if that changed anything. (it didn't). So before I call a dealer I am wondering if there is a trick to purge the system of air or a way to see if fluid is getting to the pumps as they should. The fluid level is currently correct. Any help is appreciated. Lou
With the hydraulic transmission there is no coasting like a regular vehicle. If you take your foot off the pedal it does come to an immediate stop. That is normal operation. There shouldn't be air trapped in the system after a few moments of operation. It should clear itself. Which location are you checking for fluid level? The orange/yellow cap under the bed is basically for the gears only. The tank under the passenger seat is the operation fluid. If that one is low, that could be your issue. Lift the seats, take out the tray and you'll see a rubber plug on the passenger side. Check that, or let me know if it's at a correct level.
Funny that I just got your response. I just returned from the kubota dealer and when I inquired a kind man said "did you check the tank under the passenger seat". I did and it was almost completely empty. I put in 1 1/2 gallons of udt2. Started in up, let it run a few minutes then drove away. Problem solved! Based on how hard it was to open the filler plug I guess it has never been checked or topped off. Thank you for your help.
I got a older model the 1140 and I’m having overheating issues cleaned the radiator flushed cooling system and refilled with 50/50 coolant thermostat and water pump is working good what could the problem be?
@@SearlesStationdon’t think that’s the issue and usually that’d be more rapid mine will only overheat if I am using it hard like driving it down the road in high and holding it for 15 minutes it’ll be near the red but if I sit at a stop sign for 2-5 minutes it’ll cool right down to straight up on the gauge but then in another 5-10 minutes it’s back hot. Had someone tell me to get a bigger radiator made to cool more water but if I fold up back 2 seats and leave a gap it won’t get over halfway on the gauge no matter how long I drive
Different "foot control" question. I have a 2012 1100C and my neighbor has a 2014. My pedal requires double the pressure to use it compared to his. It's just too much. Is there a spring adjustment or something?
Ah yes. Could be a couple things. Over time the cable gets rusty inside the sleeve. Should be spray greased every 200 hours or so. There is also a grease point under the bed that gets overlooked too. Try to grease the cable at both ends and see if you can see the grease zerk. Have some in the cab pumping the throttle slowly and you should be able see where things pivot and go. Then spray the heck out of it!
Primarily for work. Hydraulic bed, towing and hauling capacity, integrated pto, heated and air conditioned cab. They are not for ripping around, they are for getting the job done.
They're tanks. They'll out pull most everything else. They're better for applications where they need brute force not really speed. They're easy to control on steep hills because the hydro doesn't jerk and get grabby like a cvt does, at least not if it's properly calibrated. We do wish ours had more speed, but the vast majority of what we do is just crawling around in the woods, or putt putting down the road relaxing and watching the scenery go by. We tend to go about 17mph even on our roads around here. It's only when you need to go faster that it becomes a problem. I'm sure a lot of people need high speeds more than the other advantages and those people shouldn't buy these.
One time it snowed like 24 inches of snow and I was away from home. It was very cold the next few days and the snow became hard packed. I plowed a 1/4 mile with very rock hard snow absolutely no problem. Was it hard on the utv? You bet. Did it plowed it no problem? You bet.
How are you getting 33 mph out of that machine? I have the same XR1100 and can't get it over 22mph on a downhill and 12mph on an uphill. I'm in H gear when this is happening. All fluids have been changed.
Great video series, Thanks! Wondering if you could guess at the issue I'm having with my 2018 X1140. New to me, has 720 hours, and seems in great condition. Only issue is: When I'm traveling down hills (even fairly shallow hills) as soon as the speed from gravity seems to overtake the hydrostatic effort, it loses power. The engine stays running strong, and I can even rev it up, but it's as though it's been shifted into neutral until the machine slows nearly to a stop. Then, it'll re-engage power. Happens very consistently. Spoke with a dealer that guessed the governor is engaging, but... from your video the governor you mentioned is just that set scew, so I don't see how that's the issue. Any idea?
I think there may be an issue with the hydraulic part of the transmission. It's an interesting issue because it really should build speed downhill with full throttle. There are some internal hydraulic valves, something may be stuck, broken, plugged in there. I wish I could drive it to see what's up.
I have a 2015 RTV x1100c and it has stranded in the field. How can I disengage the transmission to tow it back to the shop? Or can I just pull it back to shop without disengaging? Thank you for any help
You should be able to put it in neutral... Press the brake hard and try to shift it. If that doesn't work, there maybe be an issue with the gears, if that's the case it may not move. Pull the orange/yellow dipstick and look inside to see if you can see any gear damage.
It's not hung in gear the fuel shutoff solenoid is bad. I just wanted to make sure if I could Pull it back to shop without disengaging hydro. Thank you
And I subscribed!! I bought one at auction. With no engine or HST. So have a good body with no guts. If you want to rebuild mine to make a video. Will pay for parts and labor too!!
Appreciate you uploading video! Why do you need a transmission. Is it possible to hook up drive motor to a drive shaft directly? Have a hydraulic pump hooked to engine. And go directly to a drive motor to drive the shaft? And do away with the transmission.
Yes, both charge pressure and relief pressure. Check fluid level, filters. Sometimes the rubber hose can collapse on the hydraulic lines ans not allow fluid to move. Squeeze them to see if they are soft and squishy
@@SearlesStation thank you for your reply My charge pressure was 0 psi in neutral and high idle . I removed 2 separate relief valves and saw no scoring or anything bad . All components in place and moved freely. I did replace filters and hoses looked ok but will check that again . I had the charge pressure port in the back off and open and started it and hardly any fluid came out . Bearly dribbled .
