Accu-Slice was founded in 2017 to permit the safer slicing of boards on the band saw. We developed the Accu-Slice System which keeps your hands and finger further removed from the band saw blade for the safer cutting of boards. The Accu-Slice Band Saw system is used for the slicing thin sections of wood (resawing) and slicing small pieces of wood with the elimination of band saw blade drift. Due to an indexing system designed into the Accu-Slice index table, thin slices of wood can be accurately sliced with a precision of +/- 0.002" and thicknesses from 0.005" up to 1" thick. The system was further developed by adding additional accessories such as a segmented jig for making accurate segments for segmented wood turning, a Celtic Ring accessory for making unique projects and a variety of other accessories.
Check out our website at www.accu-slice.com for more information about our products. www.accu-slice.com
Great video. I use the black binder clips commonly used in business when I do my thin glue ups. They are really cheap and tenacious. I guess a person could get them from work like Johnny Cash did in his song "One Piece at a Time".
Since I just acquired a Powermatic 3520C this tool is just what I need. My old lathe spindle was 1x8. The Powermatic is 1.25x8.. The price ($95) is reasonable too.🙂🙂
Thanks John for all the information on this new part! I’ve been looking for one and here it is! 😊My lathe is 1.25”x 8 tpi! I may wait till you have the one made out of stainless steel! Thanks for sharing!
do you have an info on how you wired up the spindle? every video i see is the same info. always how to do the x,y,z motors or install a new motor with a vhd. but not found any with connecting stock motor :/
I bought the rotating tailstock adaptor about 10 years ago. Apparently it is no longer available since I was not able to find any source for this item when I did an internet search. I will be working on designing and machining these units in the near future since I have had several requests for them. I just finished designing a prototype which I 3-D printed to check out my design. As soon as I can find some time, I will do an initial test by machining one out of aluminum.
The rotating tailstock is now available on our website. The link to this item is listed in the "What's New" section on our web site home page. www.accu-slice.com
Very nicely done, I am wondering why you used a tool post for your cut off tooling. It would seem like a custom tool holder in place of the rear tool post would give you more room for your gang tools
I made a significant number of drawings on the vacuum chucks and I had to modify the drawings several times to print out accurately on my 3-D printer. I am not confident that my drawings will fit your system and 3-D printer. i recommend that you create your own drawings and tweek them it to accurately print out with your 3-D printer. .
Thanks for the update on the vacuum chuck! On your tail stock with the free spinning chuck where did you find that spindle with a 1 1/4” thread all I can find is a 1”x8 threads per inch? Thanks you John for sharing!
I did search the web and I could not find a rotating live center 1.25 x 8 tpi unit like I have. I also saw on the web that many others are looking for this item. It seems like it should be readily available, but i could not find it. I am not sure where I got it. I added to my system about 10 years ago. I thought that I bought it from Nova, but I could not find it on their web site. What Nova does have is a live center kit which I found on the Nova web site. NOVA LATHE ACCESSORY 2MT LIVE CENTER SYSTEM (SKU 5015 AND 71074) and then I found a Nova 1.25 x 8 tpi Tailstock Chuck Adaptor which I found on the Rockler web site. But I could not locate this on the Nova web site. Perhaps joining these two units will do the job, but it seems like an expensive way to go.
The rotating tailstock is now available on our website. The link to this item is listed in the "What's New" section on our web site home page. www.accu-slice.com
The rotating tailstock is now available on our website. The link to this item is listed in the "What's New" section on our web site home page. www.accu-slice.com
Great job! I do 90% of my turning using face plates and doing this will come in handy. To me a 3d printer is a must have tool and are quite inexpensive. I 3d printed all my blast gates on the 3d printer and they are much better than the boughten ones.
Why print them so tall? PLA is plenty strong in compression. But the offset way above the clamping axis is adding unneeded torque to the jaws. Shorten them up so the printed "parallel" surface is just above the top surface of the vise. You'll get more clamping force with far less load on the jaw.
You CLAIM that you cut the wood to 1/100,000th of an inch? do you know how ridiculous you sound when you said that, a cigarette paper is 0.02mm thick yet you think that your bandsaw can cut to 0.000254mm in thickness, even your claim of 1/10,000th inch is 0.00254mm. You need to go back to school and learn basic math. But at least in your video description you wrote down the correct measurement of 1/100th of an inch and 1/10th of an inch which is 0.254mm and 2.54mm respectively (you're still being optimistic with the 0.254mm thickness).
It's lovely to see the pursuit of perfection in such a specific subset of a craft. For aligning glue-ups precisely, I wonder if you could use a tiny dowel system by drilling 2 holes down through the body of the cylinder before slicing it into discs. Hole 1 in the bottom disc gets dowel-aligned to hole 2 in the next disc up, ad nauseam. The dowels would be smaller than tic-tacs!
Great product John, I love my Accu-Slice, I have cut material as thin as .020 with great accuracy, I look forward to purchasing the Accu-wedge system to cut segments for ornaments , typically these are 3" spheres, I don't think it will be a problem cutting the 3/4" thick, 3" tall stock to get the segments needed. I'm greatly impressed with the accuracy of your product and just as impressed with the items you create and share in these videos. Thanks for sharing !
John, thank you very much for the informative video. I do have a question I hope you can clarify. At 3:53, on the tool offset tab just after you reset tool 10, you stated that both the X and Z are zero because "they have been setup to be the same value as the X and Z values for the System". Initially I wasn't seeing the same zero values but I then realized you had pressed the 'Zero button' in the lower portion of the screen earlier. This was the key I had missed. Then at 5:32 you mention "Do not change the values of X and Z in the center of the screen". I take it that this means, after setting the first tool, I should not ever type in values in the X and Z in the lower portion of the screen (assuming my physical tools do not change from day to day), EXCEPT for those times when a small overall adjustment might be needed like you mentioned at 15:14. Or if I do a complete library reset. Does that sound right? Thanks again for the great content.
I often use steel banding shaped into a "W". It acts as a spring, can be squished down to almost nothing, and won't attract steel chips as a magnet would.
Thanks John for another video on your new attachment for the Accu-Slice jig! Some interesting things could be made with it! I like that new dust collection you added! Thanks for sharing and stay warm! 😊
I have 8/4 Pernambuco, perfectly flatsawn... gorgeous board, no flaws,a perfect board really. If i just rip 3/8" to 1/2" strips wont that then be vertical grain...1/4 saen blanks?
It,s allways this talk of inches here and there. Why could not those inch people talk about the millimeters instead. This would make it much more easy to understand the mesaurments, says an European.